Oil burning fix, we have one...

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by jhershorin So with the stock pcv valve and no OCC will your "smoke fix" still work for me? I already ordered it so i will still try - just curious. I moved to VA and don't have much motivation to do much anymore haha.

Yes, this has been our test group so far. We have not tested one with the OCC or twin check valves but I would have to say that it would work even better on those applications. Sorry about the move and lack of motivation, I hear ya on the area, been there, done that.

Thanks for the order and keep me posted on how well it works.

[GQ_WhiteMS3]

Originally Posted by ptperformance With a properly working PCV system you can keep the oil vapors under control inside the motor. The oil doesn't get as heated and the oil control is better. The knock you get is from oil contaminated intake charge air (PCV system is dumping this air into the bottom of the manifold) and it takes one WOT pass to clear the intake from all the contaminants in the intake manifold. This is why on long cruises you see people pop their motors, its a huge build up of contaminants in the bottom of the motor that causes them to get sucked up into the motor and go boom. Right now this is just theory due to the testing just starting to verify that it does in fact fix knock. I will have another thread open in regards to the knock issues and some verification if it in fact fixes it. Thanks.

So basically you're stating that oil from the stock pcv system enters the intake manifold ... slowly on a cruise type scenario, then when you WOT the car it 'gulps' the oil from the IM into the motor thus lowering the octane rating of the fuel it's being mixed with causing knock?

would that be it in a nutshell.

If that's the case, people with OCC's should be safer #1 ... and #2 people with Meth as that will compensate for the dropped octane as well.

just trying to wrap my head around this.

[superskaterxes]

jon i have done your fix and ill make sure to report my findings!!! i made a plate to block the stock PCV box and i def now understand the flaw in the design.

[Erich]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes jon i have done your fix and ill make sure to report my findings!!! i made a plate to block the stock PCV box and i def now understand the flaw in the design.

This is only half the problem, this thread refers to the other portion, which is still applicable. I also want to get my hands on Mazda's modified PCV valve to see if it makes any difference. Did you still put a catchcan in? I think even with the relocate a catchcan will be value added.

[superskaterxes]

Originally Posted by Erich This is only half the problem, this thread refers to the other portion, which is still applicable. I also want to get my hands on Mazda's modified PCV valve to see if it makes any difference. Did you still put a catchcan in? I think even with the relocate a catchcan will be value added.

yah theres def a CC in there and i already ordered the smoking fix lol

[Deadman]

mine runs flawlessly none of these fixes done. !!!!!!!!!!!!! what now

[SonnyBonahoe]

Originally Posted by Deadman mine runs flawlessly none of these fixes done. !!!!!!!!!!!!! what now

Sit tight, your a true player!

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by GQ_WhiteMS3 So basically you're stating that oil from the stock pcv system enters the intake manifold ... slowly on a cruise type scenario, then when you WOT the car it 'gulps' the oil from the IM into the motor thus lowering the octane rating of the fuel it's being mixed with causing knock? would that be it in a nutshell. If that's the case, people with OCC's should be safer #1 ... and #2 people with Meth as that will compensate for the dropped octane as well. just trying to wrap my head around this.

Yes, and yes a OCC should help and make the car run safer but there is still oil vapors in the OCC. Unless you have a separated can with media in it the oil vapors are still going to make it to the intake manifold. Meth will adjust for the drop in octane but not on the fly. The PCM adjusts for the higher octane as well, so when the oily mess does hit the motor... you might still have knock.

Originally Posted by superskaterxes jon i have done your fix and ill make sure to report my findings!!! i made a plate to block the stock PCV box and i def now understand the flaw in the design.

Thanks for getting the fix. If you have that installed then yes you do understand that flaw in the system.

Originally Posted by superskaterxes yah theres def a CC in there and i already ordered the smoking fix lol

Your car should be smoke free and knock free here very soon.

Originally Posted by Deadman mine runs flawlessly none of these fixes done. !!!!!!!!!!!!! what now

Don't worry about it until there is a problem, simple. Do you have a way to monitor knock? If so, what counts are you getting. If you don't have a way to monitor knock, than how do you know yours runs flawlessly?

Originally Posted by SonnyBonahoe Sit tight, your a true player!

Ugh, Ryan! Hows that fix from Mazda working for you, heard that you were burning some oil the other day on the road trip .

[RC08MS3]

Originally Posted by Deadman mine runs flawlessly none of these fixes done. !!!!!!!!!!!!! what now

you could be proactive and spend the 25 bucks to prevent a future issue..

[GQ_WhiteMS3]

Originally Posted by ptperformance Yes, and yes a OCC should help and make the car run safer but there is still oil vapors in the OCC. Unless you have a separated can with media in it the oil vapors are still going to make it to the intake manifold. Meth will adjust for the drop in octane but not on the fly. The PCM adjusts for the higher octane as well, so when the oily mess does hit the motor... you might still have knock.

OK .. so I sent this to a buddy of mine who is FAR smarter then me ... and this was his response... please comment, I may get him on here to discuss further...but for now...

Hmm its an ok theory except that oil doesn't lower the octane leve of the gas. If it did, every car with leaky piston rings would blow up darn quick, and there are many blue burning DSMs that are still running. And theres a heck of alot more blue coming out of those cars then a new MS3. Also oil doesn't spontaneously combust hence why its a lubricant, even less so if your using synthetic. The engine problem does seem resolved or affected by the PCV vale. Heres what I'm thinking. The IM is connected to the crankcase via the valve. The airflow between the crankcase and IM is unmetered. If this connection were open to the air it would cause the engine to run lean. Turbo engines sometimes see blowby. This causes the oil dipstick to come out of place, sitting just outside its holder in some DSM's. With an ineffective valve, the blowby, could push unmetered air of high or normal oxygen content into the IM. Typical blowby is very little but it is repetitive and it does put the crankcase under pressure. Under cruising, the AFR is leaner in combustion chamber, so the blowby is of greater oxygen content then WOT. Overtime the engine is ingesting alot of unmetered air of higher oxygen content, when it is already running its peak timing and leanest AFR values. Its not a catostrophic failure but rather a continual part throttle knock that reduces the longevity of the motor, resulting in a greater per capita rate of failure. Removal, replacement of the valve or closure of the IM to Crankcase path seems to stop the problem by forcing all air to be metered by the MAF/MAP, but the oil could play a role too. Read on. Knock in an of itself is a post ignition process. As the flame front spreads across the top of the piston it slowly pushes it downward. The graph of force would be sinusodal or gradual. With a knock, the charge starts to spread slowly across the piston, after the spar,k but due to volatility of the gas, and the piston still rising (this compression is related to spark advance), and the compression the change itself is creating, it spontanesouly ignites and strikes the piston like a hammer instead of a gentle push. The graph of force would be a spike. The only thing that good quality synthetic oil COULD do to increase your risk of knock, is to increase the dynamic compression. Like during a compression test, you do one test with oil, and one test without oil. The oil increases compression typically. If it increases it too much you have a bad engine due to the difference between the readings. However OIL will typically increase compression. Especially good oil. So if your engine is ingesting alot of oil, its going to be running alot more compression, but unlike a blue burning beater, this oil isnt from leaky piston rings (reduced compression) so thats why cars with bad rings don't blow up they have low compression to begin with and the oil is a sympton not a cause. No, this oil is from the PCV valve, and your rings are still good. So there will be increased dynamic compression in the cylinder, which would increase the likely hood of knock, even if the oil itself was not volatile. It could just be acting like a catalyst. Combine the increased compression, with lean AFR's, advanced timing, and the ONLY reason the oil is there to begin with is because of a bad PCV valve and a bit of blowby and unmetered air.... and your increased risk of engine failure becomes apparrent in the failures per capita. Just some theories that may be linked to the problem. It does sound like a bugger to find.

[stealthspeed6]

i think he is wrong when he says the airflow between the crankcase and IM is unmetered. it is actually accounted for which is why if you did disconnect it from the IM and left it open you would run lean because there would be more air then whats accounted for, that is if you can keep the car from stalling out because what you have there is a giant vacuum leak.

its a good theory on the oil causing more compression on good cylinders though and i think thats what john is trying to get at. the fact that these cars do ingest from the pcv is a fact and over time if you don't have a occ then it builds up until finally it just takes a drink and boom. if you are running at a constant highway speed in which most cases you'll be in vacuum then your pcv valve will most likely be open that whole time thus allowing for more oil to be injested and then finally once again boom.

i also want to say that i can almost always know when i should empty my occ just from the fact when i start to see more random part throttle knock. as soon as i empty it bam its gone.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by RC08MS3 you could be proactive and spend the 25 bucks to prevent a future issue..

Agreed, but some have to be proven wrong before the take the steps to fix a problem. Thanks for the post!

Originally Posted by GQ_WhiteMS3 OK .. so I sent this to a buddy of mine who is FAR smarter then me ... and this was his response... please comment, I may get him on here to discuss further...but for now... Hmm its an ok theory except that oil doesn't lower the octane leve of the gas. If it did, every car with leaky piston rings would blow up darn quick, and there are many blue burning DSMs that are still running. And theres a heck of alot more blue coming out of those cars then a new MS3. Also oil doesn't spontaneously combust hence why its a lubricant, even less so if your using synthetic. The engine problem does seem resolved or affected by the PCV vale. Heres what I'm thinking. The IM is connected to the crankcase via the valve. The airflow between the crankcase and IM is unmetered. If this connection were open to the air it would cause the engine to run lean. Turbo engines sometimes see blowby. This causes the oil dipstick to come out of place, sitting just outside its holder in some DSM's. With an ineffective valve, the blowby, could push unmetered air of high or normal oxygen content into the IM. Typical blowby is very little but it is repetitive and it does put the crankcase under pressure. Under cruising, the AFR is leaner in combustion chamber, so the blowby is of greater oxygen content then WOT. Overtime the engine is ingesting alot of unmetered air of higher oxygen content, when it is already running its peak timing and leanest AFR values. Its not a catostrophic failure but rather a continual part throttle knock that reduces the longevity of the motor, resulting in a greater per capita rate of failure. Removal, replacement of the valve or closure of the IM to Crankcase path seems to stop the problem by forcing all air to be metered by the MAF/MAP, but the oil could play a role too. Read on. Knock in an of itself is a post ignition process. As the flame front spreads across the top of the piston it slowly pushes it downward. The graph of force would be sinusodal or gradual. With a knock, the charge starts to spread slowly across the piston, after the spar,k but due to volatility of the gas, and the piston still rising (this compression is related to spark advance), and the compression the change itself is creating, it spontanesouly ignites and strikes the piston like a hammer instead of a gentle push. The graph of force would be a spike. The only thing that good quality synthetic oil COULD do to increase your risk of knock, is to increase the dynamic compression. Like during a compression test, you do one test with oil, and one test without oil. The oil increases compression typically. If it increases it too much you have a bad engine due to the difference between the readings. However OIL will typically increase compression. Especially good oil. So if your engine is ingesting alot of oil, its going to be running alot more compression, but unlike a blue burning beater, this oil isnt from leaky piston rings (reduced compression) so thats why cars with bad rings don't blow up they have low compression to begin with and the oil is a sympton not a cause. No, this oil is from the PCV valve, and your rings are still good. So there will be increased dynamic compression in the cylinder, which would increase the likely hood of knock, even if the oil itself was not volatile. It could just be acting like a catalyst. Combine the increased compression, with lean AFR's, advanced timing, and the ONLY reason the oil is there to begin with is because of a bad PCV valve and a bit of blowby and unmetered air.... and your increased risk of engine failure becomes apparrent in the failures per capita. Just some theories that may be linked to the problem. It does sound like a bugger to find.

First off, oil vapors due induce knock. It may be from a lower octane or it could be cause from the lack of proper air volume in the motor. Either way it has been noted that excessive crank case oil vapor into the intake manifold will cause a loss of power and induce knock, thus being a bad thing and could have a relative relationship to lowing the octane.

Next and I really get pissed when I see this, we are not talking about a DSM, or a VW or any other car on the market. Its a MAZDA! I know he doesn't mean any harm but until you have seen the operation parameters of the car you have no idea what your talking about, so some of his points are moot and don't apply. We can not push the dipstick tube ouf of our cars because there are to many open holes for the pressure to escape to, thus is why we don't have properly working PCV system on the car. Sorry.

All of his knock and oil consumption ideas I agree with. The one thing I want to point out is you have to see vacuum in the motor to achive proper ring seal (think crank case evac systems on race cars) if you never achive vacuum in the motor you will have poor oil ring control that puts additional strees on the scraper ring. When this happens you end up with even more oil in the combustion events causing additional problems. This is why we are starting to see customers running with the fix getting more power and smother power delivery after a few days of driving around on them.

The system was broken from the factory and we have a fix for it.

Originally Posted by stealthspeed6 i think he is wrong when he says the airflow between the crankcase and IM is unmetered. it is actually accounted for which is why if you did disconnect it from the IM and left it open you would run lean because there would be more air then whats accounted for, that is if you can keep the car from stalling out because what you have there is a giant vacuum leak. its a good theory on the oil causing more compression on good cylinders though and i think thats what john is trying to get at. the fact that these cars do ingest from the pcv is a fact and over time if you don't have a occ then it builds up until finally it just takes a drink and boom. if you are running at a constant highway speed in which most cases you'll be in vacuum then your pcv valve will most likely be open that whole time thus allowing for more oil to be injested and then finally once again boom. i also want to say that i can almost always know when i should empty my occ just from the fact when i start to see more random part throttle knock. as soon as i empty it bam its gone.

The OCC knock, see that been there. You are correct, we are trying to establish a proper ring seal on the piston with our fix, we are trying to keep the oil in the crank case under control so we don't have to run OCC's, multilple check valves, and other fixes to cure the problem. Get the crank case pressure under control and you will see a huge reduction in knock, increase in power and hopefully an increase in MPG (testing this now). Overal, this little part could very easily pay for itself in the peace of mind or possibly in the MPG you gain after the install. I will keep you guys posted, thanks.

[jhershorin]

Should i put the stock banjo oil feed bolt back in? Or does it not really matter?

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by jhershorin Should i put the stock banjo oil feed bolt back in? Or does it not really matter?

I would leave that up to you, talk with bnoon about it and lets see how he feels about it. I know that it will work with either one on the car.

[Speedie6]

Originally Posted by ptperformance We can not push the dipstick tube ouf of our cars because there are to many open holes for the pressure to escape to, thus is why we don't have properly working PCV system on the car

I think JMHinkle said he has done exactly that, but, I think he has lots of mods.

[m4tic]

so the original valve cover breather, i have disconnected from the intake, added a air separator with some steel wool and venting it outside.... would i stiil need your pcv fix and/or should i hook this vent back up?

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by Speedie6 I think JMHinkle said he has done exactly that, but, I think he has lots of mods.

Or a lot of blowby. That is about the only reason you could push the dipstick tube out of the motor, to much pressure.

Originally Posted by bmorrisj so the original valve cover breather, i have disconnected from the intake, added a air separator with some steel wool and venting it outside.... would i stiil need your pcv fix and/or should i hook this vent back up?

The PCV fix would not effect any of the set up that you have now. So, you would be good with it and the current configuration of the OCC and lines.

[Speedie6]

John,

As you may recall, I ordered a pump, oil burning fix, replacement WI bung and replacement intake screen. I just called and talked to one of your people. He said the pumps haven't gone out yet, you are going to test them, or something like that. At any rate, I ordered over the phone and I don't have an order number or tracking number or anything. Has anything been shipped yet, or are you going to ship it all together? You can respond by PM if you prefer.

[GQ_WhiteMS3]

Originally Posted by ptperformance First off, oil vapors due induce knock. It may be from a lower octane or it could be cause from the lack of proper air volume in the motor. Either way it has been noted that excessive crank case oil vapor into the intake manifold will cause a loss of power and induce knock, thus being a bad thing and could have a relative relationship to lowing the octane. Next and I really get pissed when I see this, we are not talking about a DSM, or a VW or any other car on the market. Its a MAZDA! I know he doesn't mean any harm but until you have seen the operation parameters of the car you have no idea what your talking about, so some of his points are moot and don't apply. We can not push the dipstick tube ouf of our cars because there are to many open holes for the pressure to escape to, thus is why we don't have properly working PCV system on the car. Sorry. All of his knock and oil consumption ideas I agree with. The one thing I want to point out is you have to see vacuum in the motor to achive proper ring seal (think crank case evac systems on race cars) if you never achive vacuum in the motor you will have poor oil ring control that puts additional strees on the scraper ring. When this happens you end up with even more oil in the combustion events causing additional problems. This is why we are starting to see customers running with the fix getting more power and smother power delivery after a few days of driving around on them. The system was broken from the factory and we have a fix for it.

First off ... slow down lol ... I know we're not talkign DSM's. He isn't trying to disprove anything by this, he's simply trying to help out, he is a DSM and Honda guy but a car guy first, on top of being a very smart systems engineer.

All he said was if the knock was caused by oil, it wasn't due to octane lowering, but more so it was caused by increase in cylinder pressures... or at least thats how I read it.

[Ghost Rider]

ordered the fix. I have not had any problems thus far, but I have started to do more mods (SRI, TIP, BPV...) and figured it couldnt hurt. I am going to have to get a dashhawk next just to see what my car is really doing

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by Speedie6 John, As you may recall, I ordered a pump, oil burning fix, replacement WI bung and replacement intake screen. I just called and talked to one of your people. He said the pumps haven't gone out yet, you are going to test them, or something like that. At any rate, I ordered over the phone and I don't have an order number or tracking number or anything. Has anything been shipped yet, or are you going to ship it all together? You can respond by PM if you prefer.

Yes it ships all together today, you should have tracking in your email early tomorrow morning or later this evening. Thanks.

Originally Posted by GQ_WhiteMS3 First off ... slow down lol ... I know we're not talkign DSM's. He isn't trying to disprove anything by this, he's simply trying to help out, he is a DSM and Honda guy but a car guy first, on top of being a very smart mech. engineer. All he said was if the knock was caused by oil, it wasn't due to octane lowering, but more so it was caused by increase in cylinder pressures... or at least thats how I read it.

No, I understand but you have to know the operating parameters of this car. DI is so different then any PI car I have ever worked on. There are testing numbers that really make me thing that the car is broken from the factory when in all reality they are suppose to run this way (wow!). He also has to understand that the DI has no contamination in it from oil vapors, so the intake, rings, ect ect can all feed full contaminated air to the motor. Cyl wash down is near impossible to make happen with a DI motor outside of anything other than idle. WOT wash down is just about impossible.

I do appreciate his help and I was not jumping on anyones arse about what they do and don't know about cars.... there is just so much difference between DI Mazda motors that you have to own one/work on one in order to get an understanding. Tell him thank you for his input, it is appreciated.

Originally Posted by Ghost Rider ordered the fix. I have not had any problems thus far, but I have started to do more mods (SRI, TIP, BPV...) and figured it couldnt hurt. I am going to have to get a dashhawk next just to see what my car is really doing

Thanks for the order and no it will not hurt anything with the car or PCV system. Please do and post the results of before and after if you can. Thanks!

[GQ_WhiteMS3]

Originally Posted by ptperformance First off, oil vapors due induce knock. It may be from a lower octane or it could be cause from the lack of proper air volume in the motor. Either way it has been noted that excessive crank case oil vapor into the intake manifold will cause a loss of power and induce knock, thus being a bad thing and could have a relative relationship to lowing the octane. Next and I really get pissed when I see this, we are not talking about a DSM, or a VW or any other car on the market. Its a MAZDA! I know he doesn't mean any harm but until you have seen the operation parameters of the car you have no idea what your talking about, so some of his points are moot and don't apply. We can not push the dipstick tube ouf of our cars because there are to many open holes for the pressure to escape to, thus is why we don't have properly working PCV system on the car. Sorry. All of his knock and oil consumption ideas I agree with. The one thing I want to point out is you have to see vacuum in the motor to achive proper ring seal (think crank case evac systems on race cars) if you never achive vacuum in the motor you will have poor oil ring control that puts additional strees on the scraper ring. When this happens you end up with even more oil in the combustion events causing additional problems. This is why we are starting to see customers running with the fix getting more power and smother power delivery after a few days of driving around on them. The system was broken from the factory and we have a fix for it.

John... here's another response to your post lol ... I'm trying to get him to get an account on here, I really think this kind of discussion is healthy and beneficial. Keep in mind I DID order your fix

towards the end ..he gets a little snippy, but it's just a rebuttle to you getting snippy about dsm's.

Sorry, I didn't want to start a debate, and didn't know my response to you would be posted, so some of is for refernce for you. Like your knowledge of my experience with DSM's. However, he misunderstood my post. Oil vapours could induce knock, I do not dispute that. Seems to me like he just skimmed over the post. What I mean by indirectly or catalyst effect is oil itself is not volatile, it will not ignite under typical spark, heat or pressure. It is engineered that way and is designed to lubricate the cylinder walls and therefore see day to day combustion, this is typical burn off. We mix oil with high octane gas intentionally in high performance, knock sensitive, 15,000 RPM, 2 stroke engines. In this case even a few counts of knock can destroy the engine, unlike more robusk 4 strokes. However the compression is lower and is designed with the oil lubricant in mind. In general motor oil improves lubrication, and does not interact with the charge itself, aside from taking the place of oxygen and increasing emissions. If there is increased knock it is a catalyst effect. The oil itself does not sponteanously ignite under heat and pressure, and neither does high quality gas. As for performance, since oil is taking the place of oxygen in the cylinder it would definetly have a performance effect, I did not dispute that. This is because the same amount of fuel is still needed to maintain a target AFR, but now theres extra oil in the charge taking up space as well. My comment about the DSM blowby was again just for reference. It is a symptom of blow by on those cars as was there to give an idea that blowby causes pressure in the crankcase, and thus pressure on the PCV. The operating parameters.... of the MS3, are no different then any other car out there, direct injection or not. The tuning may be load based but as far as AFR's and reaons for knock, it must respond to the same laws of thermodynamics as every other engine out there. It burns the same fuel and therefore its parameters must operate around the same stochiometric mixture of 14.68:1, especially when cruising. Meaning if the compression is too high or the AFR too lean, or the fuel too poor... with reference to that value, it will knock. I am trying to point out reasons or theories that you may want to investigate. I am surely not qualified to diagnose with any accurracy the flaws pertaining to this fault in specifc, without any solid facts, numbers or data at my disposal and even then my schooling is systems engineering not mechanical. I am simply tossing out a few theories. If this gentlemen wants to disagree with them, its his opinion. But stating the obvious like this car isn't a DSM, doesn't add anything to the discussion. I don't have a MS3, so I am going out a limb to try and lend a hand to you (or the community since you chose to share it) as to reasons why the part throttle knock experienced my some, could be induced. "I really get pissed" when some business owners bully their customers with an over bearing attitude into sharing the same opinion. Telling someone their points are moot and they have no idea what they are talking about is not only a unwarranted personal attack, its just plain disrepsectful. Especially when someone takes the time to extend their thoughts on a problem, they don't share, on their own time. Steve

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by GQ_WhiteMS3 John... here's another response to your post lol ... I'm trying to get him to get an account on here, I really think this kind of discussion is healthy and beneficial. Keep in mind I DID order your fix towards the end ..he gets a little snippy, but it's just a rebuttle to you getting snippy about dsm's.

Thanks, typical engineer. With that being said, his input is appreciated but until he has worked on one, tuned one, or even modded one he has "ZERO" first hand knowledge of the car.

I could come in here and state that my Caliber (600 WHP proven) runs best at 13.0 AFR's on race gas and we get knock if we run any lower than 11.2 AFR's. Would I run a Mazdaspeed at those AFR's? Would I run a DSM at those AFR's? Hell NO! Every car is different, every car has different PCM logic, knock sensor sensitivity, ect ect. This is why I addressed the "DSM" comment.

To be honest with you the discussion would do nothing for the members, he has no first hand knowledge about the DI 2.3 motor and it would all just be opinion and book based. You have to work on the car in order to understand how it responds to different inputs, all cars are different and stating if one car does this, than the next one should as well is just foolish. Get your hands dirty and then get back to me.

Thanks,

John (your bully shop owner that attacks customers)

[GQ_WhiteMS3]

Why are you getting so angry / upset ... it's kinda ridiculous ... you are both arguing the same fcuking point... just different reasoning.

John ... he is AGREEING with you that a better pcv system is needed and WILL HELP curb knock! You're looking a little silly here to me at least because he is NOT arguing with you.

running a 600hp car at 13's and 11.2 afr's is irrelevant here you are right ESPECIALLY since we are talking pt knock which occurs in a closed loop scenario at a stoich afr.

Yes this car is different he knows that, how it responds to mods, tweaks etc, (how it gets from performance point A to performance point B is different then other cars out there but the logic remains similar.

[skeeter149]

can some people update the knockage curbage as they install these? if it does i will definately scrounge my pennies for one

[Trader]

Can somebody expain what the fix is? Or is it still a secret. Will definately buy if it fixes the problems ($25 is nothing), but I also like to know what I am getting.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by Trader Can somebody expain what the fix is? Or is it still a secret. Will definately buy if it fixes the problems ($25 is nothing), but I also like to know what I am getting.

1) its a restrictor pill that goes in the PCV system at the valve cover
2) It is not $25 anymore, the GB is over it went up in price, check PTP website for more info.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by GQ_WhiteMS3 Why are you getting so angry / upset ... it's kinda ridiculous ... you are both arguing the same fcuking point... just different reasoning. John ... he is AGREEING with you that a better pcv system is needed and WILL HELP curb knock! You're looking a little silly here to me at least because he is NOT arguing with you. running a 600hp car at 13's and 11.2 afr's is irrelevant here you are right ESPECIALLY since we are talking pt knock which occurs in a closed loop scenario at a stoich afr. Yes this car is different he knows that, how it responds to mods, tweaks etc, (how it gets from performance point A to performance point B is different then other cars out there but the logic remains similar.

I am not upset or angry, just being clear that you either understand they system or you don't. The Mazda operating parameters are way different than that of any car I have ever worked on. Again, no two cars are the same! Yes they run on gas, yes the logic is still there, but that is where it stops. That is the only point in which I could have gotten a little upset, he has not spent the 400 hours working on the car in order to fix this problem, I have.

Originally Posted by skeeter149 can some people update the knockage curbage as they install these? if it does i will definately scrounge my pennies for one

I will make a thread on this so we can get an accurate account of any knock correction if any. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Trader Can somebody expain what the fix is? Or is it still a secret. Will definately buy if it fixes the problems ($25 is nothing), but I also like to know what I am getting.

See below post.

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak 1) its a restrictor pill that goes in the PCV system at the valve cover 2) It is not $25 anymore, the GB is over it went up in price, check PTP website for more info.

Thank you.

[Driverman5777]

So for some reason im finding it hard to believe that restricting a line poses no negatives. How is this true?

[KRNAGE]

so is this fix working? not smoking but want to get one just in case (still need to get a downpipe) which ill order soon
is this hard to install?

[Erich]

Originally Posted by Driverman5777 So for some reason im finding it hard to believe that restricting a line poses no negatives. How is this true?

You would have less problem believing this if you could look at some of the other design issues with the PCV system on this motor. It is like the engineers got to the end of their design cycle, were tired and still had the PCV system to go and just started slapping random necessary components in semi-random location to get it done.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by KRNAGE so is this fix working? not smoking but want to get one just in case (still need to get a downpipe) which ill order soon is this hard to install?

Yes its working very well. We are also including one for free with every downpipe ordered off the site. The DP prices are very affordable and allow for a no smoke install with the PTP restrictor.

Install is very easy.

[Driverman5777]

quite a shame then that you don't have speed6 downpipes

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by Driverman5777 quite a shame then that you don't have speed6 downpipes

I am sure that we could get one for you. We are going to be working with another company to get these on the market for you guys, thanks.

[DaleNixon]

Mine came in the mail yesterday. Thanks for the fast shipping, PTP. I'll try to get it installed this weekend. Is everyone loving this so far?

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by DaleNixon Mine came in the mail yesterday. Thanks for the fast shipping, PTP. I'll try to get it installed this weekend. Is everyone loving this so far?

90% of the people love it and 10% seem to have some issues with it fitting tight and not working. We are addressing those that don't have a tight fit with the part with V2. This should clear up that last 10% of customers that say that mod is not working.

Thanks.

[DaleNixon]

Thanks. I gathered that same number reading the forums. I'll see if it fits in my system. I'm not smoking, and my knock is mysteriously gone with Cobb's 105 maps, but I still think this fix is important as Mazda themselves are redesigning the PCV system.

[ilight]

How loose is too loose, fit wise? Mine spins, in place, once I managed to get it installed. I have only tested the car once, since I added the part, and I still have some smoke. I had a decent length drive (after I installed the part, but before I "tested" the car) and would have thought I'd have burned off any remaining oil... Please let me know if I can make any improvements.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by ilight How loose is too loose, fit wise? Mine spins, in place, once I managed to get it installed. I have only tested the car once, since I added the part, and I still have some smoke. I had a decent length drive (after I installed the part, but before I "tested" the car) and would have thought I'd have burned off any remaining oil... Please let me know if I can make any improvements.

The remaing oil takes some time to get rid of so that might be what is taking so long to rid your car of the smoking issues.

Give it some time to see if it gets any better, if not, then I would say that we might have to get you into another mod that fits tighter. Keep me posted on your test results, thanks.

[ilight]

Thanks! I will give it some more time and let you know the results.