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 Old 03-27-2016, 12:13 AM   #1
 
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Default Please Help... Having a Alignment Nightmare

Hello. I Just bought a 06 MS6 and I'm having alignment issues. It's a long story bit really need help. So it goes like this. I bought the car and about a month and a half later I found my self in a curb on a snowy night and hit the whole right side. But no body damage. The suspension and rims took the hit. So I did a insurance claim. They had me take it to a "in-network" shop. We will call this:

shop 1, visit 1. They replaced the FR control arm, FR Steering knockle, FR strut, RR suspension linkage and both rims. Did a four wheel alignment. Got the car back and it was pulling right, and had a rubbing noise in the RR still. And had a different battery then when I brought it in.(I wasn't worried the battery that came with car was small too what im used to seeing, and this one was bigger, so didn't say anything about it) I called insurance and took it back to same shop

Shop 1, visit 2. Did a four wheel alignment, still had a pull and a rubbing noise. But this time I was told how great my car was and how good my clutch was and how it reminded the guy of his evo he said he was spending a grand a month to keep on the road. The result they burned my clutch smelled it the whole ride home called insurance company and requested a new shop. And now my transmission mount is knocking. Insurance company agreed to new shop and payed for a mount to be put in but I arrange it so they would pay for the labor and half the price of a upgraded mount from sure motorsports. So next shop

Shop 2, visit 1 They had car for three days. Test drove it and said there was no pull, no rubbing noise and no transmission mount knocking and returned it to me. I was shocked, like are u f'ing kindling me. So of course I had to call and request it be looked at again the insurance. So same shop looked at it again. Shop 2, visit 2 Did four wheel alignment. Got car back and still pulling, still making rubbing noise and still had transmission mount knock. It had a different battery in again (but this one was name brand and looked newer then the one that was in it, so i didnt say anything) I called insurance again....

Shop 2, visit 3 Did a four wheel alignment, tire rotation, replaced RR wheel bearing, replaced transmission mount. But the car still pulls right. And noticed that when the awd would normally kick in the AWD warning light would light up and flash. And when I would launch with any power I would get wheel hop (never a problem before) so went to parking lot to do a cookie to see if I was right and the car acted like it was fwd wouldn't pull the rear end out, and if u gave it power u lost steering. Like a typical fwd. So I called insurance. They said bring it in.

Shop 2, visit 4 Offered to do the new alignment with me in driver seat. I said no and they did another four wheel alignment, and did a dianostic and found the car was experiencing a low voltage situation at the RR speed sensor wheel under load. And said it was due to a old battery. But the cars battery was changed two times during the course of all the shop visits. I told the insurance guy that and it got me no where.

So I bought a yellow top battery. And found yet a different battery in it... WTF... but like i figured it didn't fix the problem. I called them back they wanted me to take it to my own (out of network) shop. get a new alignment and a dianostic of awd problem.

So I took it to a local shop in my area with good reviews. They did a four wheel alignment. And I drove it too the shop to get that alignment. They aligned it or so they say. The car pulled way worse and had a horrible wobble when over 50mph. After the alignment and they said the car needs a front camber kit for $326. Because the car was experiencing a cross camber issue on the front on left side. So now it's basically undriveable Then when I got the car just 3 months ago the awd worked fine no issues, no lights. Now they say the transfer case is shot. With no warning. Nothing just bought it. It was fine before and after the crash wasn't a problem. Not until the RR wheel bearing was changed that's when my awd took a dump... they say it's due to it being worn and fluids in bad condition. So Insurance says that's not there problem anymore and now my car still pulls right with no explanation and it didn't before the accident. And the awd is f'ed up. And it going to cost me $4180. for parts and labor

The very last alignment I had done was from meineke

LF CAMBER -0.6 RF CAMBER -0.1
LF TOE 0.08 RF TOE 0.09
TOTAL TOE 0.17
STEER AHEAD -0.01
LR CAMBER -1.3 RF CAMBER -1.0
LR TOE 0.14 RR TOE 0.12
TOTAL TOE 0.26
THRUST ANGLE 0.01

There print out had no cross camber readings.
I went to another shop just to have the alignment rechecked not adjusted. They said it's within spec. And when I did the alignment at meineke it was right after I put on a brand new set of tires. Anyway the shop said one of my new tires was pulling, so I had it replaced but the car never stopped pulling right and the "bad tire" was on the left rear. So I'm lost... The specs they got were here its the bottom one (good year)
Any advice and help would be fantastic! !!! Thanks
Here's all the print outs of my alignments that I kept.
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File Type: jpg New Doc 3_4.jpg (724.3 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg New Doc 3_2.jpg (574.2 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg New Doc 3_1.jpg (904.6 KB, 33 views)
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 Old 03-27-2016, 06:42 AM   #2
 
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Sorry to hear about all your troubles, but it sounds like the first 2 Shops were taking your car for a joy ride. I would have said something every time they switched the battery, if it had a small battery when you bought it could mean that the po had a 3.5" intake before.

Since when a battery affect the voltage of components that should be powered by the alternator? Its the first time I hear that.

There is a thread, about the proper alignment for our cars. I will look it up for you. Also you should find an alignment shop that works with AWD cars, most companies just care to get it in spec which for some cars is not enough

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 Old 03-27-2016, 07:38 AM   #3
 
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Here you go Alignment .. "in Spec" Not Good Enough - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
Watch out, the "more better " alignment specs they have listed show numbers for both the MS6 and M6 for the rear. Be sure to delete the m6 info before printing it out to avoid any confusion at the shop. Find a good shop. Tell them you need a custom alignment. Pay extra. Make them put the numbers dead on.
If the car is lowered at all you will need adjustable upper ball joints on the front to get on the numbers.
http://edgeautosport.com/spc-front-b...d-6-2006-2007/
How To: REVISED SPC ADJUSTABLE UPPER BALL JOINTS INSTALL W/PICS
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 Old 03-28-2016, 10:06 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by rob ms6gt View Post
Here you go Alignment .. "in Spec" Not Good Enough - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
Watch out, the "more better " alignment specs they have listed show numbers for both the MS6 and M6 for the rear. Be sure to delete the m6 info before printing it out to avoid any confusion at the shop. Find a good shop. Tell them you need a custom alignment. Pay extra. Make them put the numbers dead on.
If the car is lowered at all you will need adjustable upper ball joints on the front to get on the numbers.
SPC Front Ball Joints MS6 06+
How To: REVISED SPC ADJUSTABLE UPPER BALL JOINTS INSTALL W/PICS
Thanks for posting it, got busy and completely for got to post the link
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 Old 03-28-2016, 11:22 AM   #5
 
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I found that one and when I read it there were no clear numbers to go by one guys say this the next guys say a different number ... if u go to page one there is 4 links, a upper one and 3 lower. I did the upper one and I dont know which one is for my car or if it's for the regular Mazda 6. I did a write up on that one too but no response. There's 40 pages of people saying what they got. And half were asking for help saying their car was not pulling but they were getting uneven tire wear. And from there on it went to how to acomidate the uneven tire wear. I just need someone to point out the correct answer. I do appreciate your time and help I posted a pic of the specs I think u are referring too but unclear if it's for mine and if I'm supposed to do the 3rd and 5th one for mine. Just need to be sure!!! Thanks again
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 Old 03-28-2016, 02:28 PM   #6
 
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This is what I used
Suggested Alignment Spec

For street use, pay extra if needed, but set front and rear total toe-in at .09 deg +/- .04 deg ( .045" +/- .022" @ Hunter reference tire OD* , or .04" +/- .02" across tire OD ). Rear camber of -1.6 deg MS6, and -1.1 M6 deg (spec targets), +/-.2 deg. [ Be clear about the toe spec units: degrees is typically used]
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 Old 04-17-2016, 11:33 AM   #7
 
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Thank buddy I'm going to get it done. But had to push it back a paycheck because I found out the previous owner treadlocked the oil filter cap on and the drain bolt for the fikter so ordered the screw on filter conversion kit... but I will have it in and report back in a week or so... thanks again
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 Old 04-18-2016, 02:13 AM   #8
 
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wow man i can totally relate, i had some whacky aligment woes, that I somehow managed to fix my inflating my tires a bit more lol

now i don't imply that will solve anything for you, however for the trans mount noise, do me a favor, and make sure you aren't confusing it with the dreaded steering wheel pop, that one drove me nuts for a while trying to figure out what the clunk was in my engine bay, only to realize it was the stupid telescoping mechanism on the steering wheel needing to be re-greased, in fact it seems to need re-greasing so often that i stopped pulling it out to the close position i like my wheel at, since the noise was quite annoying and troubling and having to put more grease on every winter is a chore

just a suggestion, hope it helps

as far as the car pulling to the right, i assume you mean on flat roads right? since the crowns on some roads cannot be driven down straight without having your car pull left otherwise in parking lots and such

i wish you luck, my only other suggestion is to look into how aligments are done DIY, unless you want to pay someone else to hunt around for an issue on "shop time"

btw when the shops tell you they cant recreate the issue, have you tried doing it for them with a tech in the car? since people do have habits, and the way you drive might be different than the tech which would only cause headaches in trying to relate without direct examples of "watch when i do this, do you see how my car does that?!" which imho is not something someone can pretend to not notice

yet again gl
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What psi do u keep ur tires? No I haven't experienced the steering wheel pop yet... the transmission mount was shot with the rubber destroyed it was %60 metal on metal.... and I replaced all the motor mounts with the sure torq series..... the car didnt pull before the accident and after it was really noticeable... so I'm assuming something changed but it doesn't seem to matter if I'm in a parking lot or on any road it's there..... I'll have to look into the diy alignments I thought u needed special equipment... and the time u are referring to with them not being able to reproduce the symptoms.. I did go for drive with tech but car was cold ... didn't have noise in back and the pull wasn't as bad... he had me do a hard pull to see if it was just torque steer, and it did pull some but then i showed him it pulling while on frontage road coasting at 35mph he also noticed.. still it wasn't as bad...but had to take car and talk to insurance and the car was doing it all again by the time I got to my side of town... Car was warm.i now I guess??.. I don't know but couldn't turn back had to go to work that day really pissed me off... but thanks I'll post a update soon....
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 Old 04-26-2016, 02:22 PM   #10
 
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I really don't think it's from the crown on the road. This is my second sports car. I came from a 02 A6 2.7t, and a 01 Pontiac Grand am, 2000 Chevy blazer,96 Mazda protégé. Anyhow I've never had a car pull all the time like this. This bad after fresh tires and alignments. The reason I'm thinking it's got to be more is the reason I had to buy tires was because the left front had really bad wear in the inside corner... so I figured something has to be off. And I believe my tires are at 38psi. That what the alignment shops keep putting it back at... I usely keep my tires at the "MAX PSI" posted on the side of the tire. Which I believe mine say 45 or 50psi... that's why I asked what psi ur "fixed psi " was the fixed the pull for u? I get paid the 7th of may I'll be doing the alignment then and reporting back thanks again !!
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 Old 04-26-2016, 06:46 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
I really don't think it's from the crown on the road. This is my second sports car. I came from a 02 A6 2.7t, and a 01 Pontiac Grand am, 2000 Chevy blazer,96 Mazda protégé. Anyhow I've never had a car pull all the time like this. This bad after fresh tires and alignments. The reason I'm thinking it's got to be more is the reason I had to buy tires was because the left front had really bad wear in the inside corner... so I figured something has to be off. And I believe my tires are at 38psi. That what the alignment shops keep putting it back at... I usely keep my tires at the "MAX PSI" posted on the side of the tire. Which I believe mine say 45 or 50psi... that's why I asked what psi ur "fixed psi " was the fixed the pull for u? I get paid the 7th of may I'll be doing the alignment then and reporting back thanks again !!


Dude 30-34 psi. Never do whats on the side wall unless u are at max payload
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 Old 04-26-2016, 07:42 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
Dude 30-34 psi. Never do whats on the side wall unless u are at max payload
Oh damn ok thanks bro.... I appreciate the advice..
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 Old 04-26-2016, 09:41 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Oh damn ok thanks bro.... I appreciate the advice..


So many people do that. If you open ur driver door you will see what psi you should run. Usually 30 psi but you can aways adjust that to your preference but within reason. Like running 32 psi or something. 40+ is crazy. You will get all center wear and your car will slide easily in rain and hard turning
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