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 Old 09-15-2018, 10:48 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
It is 100% necessary for the flywheel to have a clean, perfect mating surface for the clutch to grab. If the clutch wore down to the rivets or damaged the flywheel at all, it will have to be replaced or at least resurfaced. Fidanza is a cheap option and it's lighter, which is just a bonus. OEM Flywheel is hella expensive. If the flywheel is undamaged, clean it well with denatured alcohol. Be VERY careful to only use a TINY bit of lubricant on the splines and be careful when you re-grease the fork and release bearing. That shit's gonna spin at 6000 RPM, which will send any excess lubricant all over the place. If any lubricant at all gets into the clutch, you're gonna have a bad time.

i bought the car recently and it does not move the engine shakes but no knock
or and only a code for p0101
the car can barley go into gear im just afraid that the flywheel is damaged which is
causing the engine to shake thats why im wondering if i should replace it
thanks for your advice by the way
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 Old 09-15-2018, 10:51 PM   #42
 
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P0101 is a MAF sensor voltage out of range. Does it have an aftermarket intake? If so, do you have a tune for it?

It's entirely possible the seller had it modded and haphazardly replaced the stock parts before selling it. That's quite common on our platform, unfortunately.
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 Old 09-15-2018, 11:01 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
P0101 is a MAF sensor voltage out of range. Does it have an aftermarket intake? If so, do you have a tune for it?

It's entirely possible the seller had it modded and haphazardly replaced the stock parts before selling it. That's quite common on our platform, unfortunately.
i honestly dont know the full history behind it
i got it from a auto auction as a non runner
and it was a repossed, it's completely bone stock
no intake nothing at all but i do see some evidence
that it might have been moded before it was repossed
how can i tell if it was running a tune ?
its a 2010 tech pack
225k
when its running it seems like there is a broken mount
but i verified that its fine
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 Old 09-15-2018, 11:07 PM   #44
 
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Well, a shaking engine is a clear sign of a broken mount. The passenger mounts are filled with fluid. Sometimes they appear intact, but all the fluid leaked out. You can tell if there is any brown staining around the exhaust heat shield, strut tower, or timing cover. It looks like rust. Transmission mounts are unlikely to fail, but the bushings wear out. Rear motor mounts are TERRIBLE in these cars and can be so worn out the engine rocks immensely when you rev the engine. I would suggest getting a COBB Accessport or some other means of data logging, take some data logs, start a new thread and upload the logs. This thread is really being kinda hijacked at this point.
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 Old 09-15-2018, 11:08 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
P0101 is a MAF sensor voltage out of range. Does it have an aftermarket intake? If so, do you have a tune for it?

It's entirely possible the seller had it modded and haphazardly replaced the stock parts before selling it. That's quite common on our platform, unfortunately.
it also came with no battery with i thought was weird
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 Old 11-04-2018, 04:12 AM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
That LUK clutch in the picture is the OEM clutch. That's a steal for $200 considering it comes with the pilot bearing, release bearing, and alignment tool.

Edit: You MUST replace the flywheel bolts if you replace the flywheel or have it cleaned up. They are one-time use only. Don't forget about those.
Flywheel bolts are not one time use. They are totally fine to re-use.

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 Old 04-21-2019, 04:36 PM   #47
 
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Add "WJB WR614128 Bearing Assembly" and "NATIONAL 614128 Bearing Assembly - Sealed Self-Aligning; Bore=1.5197", Outer Diameter=2.474", Width=1.33"" Throwout bearings for the ms6 to the list. Both arn't even close, only one that looks like it will fit is the skf.
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 Old 05-13-2019, 01:22 PM   #48
 
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I've noticed that if it says it will fit 2007-2009 the part was probably designed for the MS3 but if it says it fits 2004-2009 then it was designed for the MZ3. Now, that doesn't necessary mean it won't work on our car depending on the part in question but definitely use some caution and common sense when ordering. Body components probably fine... suspension probably not strong enough, even if it will bolt on.
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 Old 05-14-2019, 04:26 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by shawnmos View Post
I've noticed that if it says it will fit 2007-2009 the part was probably designed for the MS3 but if it says it fits 2004-2009 then it was designed for the MZ3. Now, that doesn't necessary mean it won't work on our car depending on the part in question but definitely use some caution and common sense when ordering. Body components probably fine... suspension probably not strong enough, even if it will bolt on.

I’ve noticed it’s a VERY solid idea to not buy any parts from any source that doesn’t identify the part compatibility specifically by exact car model, VIN or engine, or a combination of those. Most of the parts sites I look into only have a “Mazda 3” option and think the Mazdaspeed 3 is the same car. Half of eBay sells “Mazdaspeed 3” parts in the item name, but down in the compatibility section the engine type is listed as 2.0L or 2.5L MZR


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 Old 05-15-2019, 03:40 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
I’ve noticed it’s a VERY solid idea to not buy any parts from any source that doesn’t identify the part compatibility specifically by exact car model, VIN or engine, or a combination of those. Most of the parts sites I look into only have a “Mazda 3” option and think the Mazdaspeed 3 is the same car. Half of eBay sells “Mazdaspeed 3” parts in the item name, but down in the compatibility section the engine type is listed as 2.0L or 2.5L MZR


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Yeah, ebay is really terrible about compatibility in general. My stepson has an old ford focus and ebay frequently says parts from the DOHC engine are compatible with his SOHC engine when they definitely are not.
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