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 Old 09-03-2016, 01:52 PM   #1
 
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Default Stock Block, Internals and Turbo Max Hp Safe Extraction Help

Hello all, I have a 2006 mazdaspeed 6 and I am in the process of replacing the clutch due to it going out. And I found a transfer case for $600 used and grabbed that.(shortly after buying car transfer case went out due to a leak I believe) anyhow it will be here this coming Thursday. And so that fixes the maintenance items I was waiting to getting done before upgrading(clutch w/Lightweight Flywheel,throw out bearing, transfer case)
The only thing left is I still have an alignment issue, and I still need rear diff mounts front and rear. But these are next). So back to the reason for this post. With money saved from putting in the clutch myself I was able to grab not only the transfer case, but a 3" cat-less downpipe, 3" cat-less race pipe, hpfp, 3.5" Full intake, egr delete, oil filter conversion kit for the Mazda 6(eliminating the pos oem oil cooler), front mount air oil cooler kit, 12 volt waterproof fan for oil cooler, Fmic(fmic pipe kit plus tr6 treadstone core), clutch slave cylinder, stainless steel clutch hose. I also already have versatuner but I haven't installed it yet.

I know without doing the MAF sensor relocation to after the intercooler and bov but before the intake. And making it a pass-thru configuration that I can't use the egr delete. My mistake. That will be in due time. So for now not installing egr delete.

The reason I'm deleting the oem oil cooler is I had the top bolt back itself back out enough to let the brand new seal blow out, causing all my oil to blow out all over the under side of my car while going down the highway. And I thought the top bolt for the cooler just backed itself back out after recently doing a oil filter conversion kit the week before. So I bought the wrench I needed to tighten the top bolt And I bought new royal purple oil, just to put it in and it to come back out because the seal blew out and so I had to get it towed home. And since then I replaced the seal and JB Welded the wrench to the top bolt after tightening top bolt and zip tied the wrench so it couldn't turn. A temporary fix. and after some research I found its a problem area on this car. So I moved forward to how to delete it. So im going with a oil cooler kit that includes the oil filter sandwich adapter. And since I'm mounting the fmic in the front bumper in the only opening in the grill I'm going to modify the air hood scoop that was for the tmic thats not there anymore and installing the oil cooler in the hood scoop and running a waterproof 12 volt fan pulling air thru it when stopped or when sitting idle for any period of time... also putting a intake air cone - water shield on the openings for the air hood scoop to help prevent water from covering the oil cooler when traveling at highway speed in rain. I think I got it thought out pretty good. I'll post pics when done.

I have done a decent amount of research, I'm not just asking questions with no effort in finding the answers.

I have been referring to 2 upgrade guides for almost all of my info so far.
The first one is
Mazdaspeed 3/6 Modification Guide 2006 to Current

The Second one is
Blog : The modification path in a MazdaSpeed/MPS vehicle : Stratified Automotive Controls


My questions are for all the stock block and Internals speed experts out there. Not looking for opinions. (not that those don't help. But I need info based on facts or experience. I really appreciate your help!! And I don't mean to affect anyone)

My Questions are:
1) Did I forget anything? I'm not looking to build the engine internals. Just wanting to push the stock setup to its limits without blowing it up or becoming unreliable.
A turbo upgrade is also in due time. But for now keeping stock turbo.

2)what boost numbers should I see? and what numbers should I never see? (if I want to keep my stock rods and pistons and block intact)

3)do I need to look at upgrading valve cover bolts? (Since I'm staying under 400whp, which is what I've read is the stock limit and that I should stay around 370 to 380 whp.)
All standard turbo engine upgrade guides say it's one of the first things you get. yet the speed 6 guides dont. Just want to check.

4) since the oem ecu runs off load and not boost. What is the max load numbers I need to stay under to avoid a bent rod or thrown piston?

5)do I need to worry about the fuel injectors seals? (I read about people doing it but most of them had a built motor so im unsure if thats something that's only needed when exceeding the 400 whp mark)

I believe that covers it. I appreciate any and all help Thanks!!
:lick: hoping I got all the loose ends...
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 Old 09-03-2016, 02:00 PM   #2
 
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Item 3...valve cover bolts? wth?
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 Old 09-03-2016, 06:44 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by JSmith View Post
Item 3...valve cover bolts? wth?
What about it. It's a legitimate question. Since I'm going to be pushing everything to its limit, I wanted to make sure I got a answer to this question. before I blow off my valve cover on first tune. This is only my second turbo car and the last one needed it. So that's why I'm checking... :wave:
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 Old 09-03-2016, 06:57 PM   #4
 
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You can't say you want to "push the stock block to it's limits" and also say you want it to be "reliable". Hell you might blow it up without even pushing the limits of the block like I did lol. If you are keeping the stock turbo for a while, you really have nothing to worry about with blowing it up while on the k04 and a good tune.

K04 shouldn't be going over 22psi (and imo, shouldn't be higher than that ever at any point in the RPM band, but that is my opinion) before 3.5/4k.

Never heard of anyone upgrading valve cover bolts. Maybe you mean head studs?

On the k04 I saw loads of 2.5 around 4k. I honestly forget what that was, maybe around 360ft/lbs?

Do you need to worry about the seals? No. But if you are going to keep the car for a while, and you are going to do more upgrades, bigger turbo, etc. Then I would say absolutely get CS seals, the OEM ones are shit and it's amazing they are able to work looking like they do.
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 Old 09-03-2016, 09:39 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by g00s3y View Post
You can't say you want to "push the stock block to it's limits" and also say you want it to be "reliable". Hell you might blow it up without even pushing the limits of the block like I did lol. If you are keeping the stock turbo for a while, you really have nothing to worry about with blowing it up while on the k04 and a good tune.

K04 shouldn't be going over 22psi (and imo, shouldn't be higher than that ever at any point in the RPM band, but that is my opinion) before 3.5/4k.

Never heard of anyone upgrading valve cover bolts. Maybe you mean head studs?

On the k04 I saw loads of 2.5 around 4k. I honestly forget what that was, maybe around 360ft/lbs?

Do you need to worry about the seals? No. But if you are going to keep the car for a while, and you are going to do more upgrades, bigger turbo, etc. Then I would say absolutely get CS seals, the OEM ones are shit and it's amazing they are able to work looking like they do.
Thanks maybe it was head studs I never did get around to upgrading my last one that needed it. So I never actually bought them. But thanks I appreciate the info
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 Old 09-04-2016, 07:20 PM   #6
 
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Talk to your chosen tuner when getting a tune. Stress that you would like have it as reliable/safe as possible and they should definitely be able to help you out with that.

That obviously doesn't apply if you are going the self tune route
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 Old 09-05-2016, 08:05 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by white devil View Post
Talk to your chosen tuner when getting a tune. Stress that you would like have it as reliable/safe as possible and they should definitely be able to help you out with that.

That obviously doesn't apply if you are going the self tune route
I have the versatuner and I'm going to be trying to tune it myself.. but nervous, only second boosted car and never used tuning software before but the versatuner is supposed to be for beginners to professionals . With Everything I need done can be done by a wizard guide is what i understand but have never used it yet Car needed tlc first.. after talking to versatuner about what map to go with they are telling me I can go with the high flow down pipe low load or high load but that I would still have to reconfigure the MAF that no off the self map is setup for a 3.5" intake... so just nervous
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 Old 09-06-2016, 08:55 AM   #8
 
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You are not going to reach those number with the K04. Add a methanol kit or mix e85 if you don't already have one or the other.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 09:13 AM   #9
 
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If you're going to chase that kind of power with a k04, you probably will want to stock up on spare k04's.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 09:58 AM   #10
 
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Also, if you were referring to head studs, do not bother replacing them. Stockers are good up to ~500whp/wtq roughly.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 10:08 AM   #11
 
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If you're nervous about tuning it, then you really should not be tuning it. You don't want to blow it up because you have no clue what you're doing.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 10:13 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by tek_88 View Post
You are not going to reach those number with the K04. Add a methanol kit or mix e85 if you don't already have one or the other.
Yes I saw that in the tuning guides, but I haven't gotten that far in terms of research. So I'm going to start researching what's the better option in terms of reliability. I believe from what I've read that I would have to get new in tank fuel pump to go E85 and I can only do a 50/50 blend if I do. Because the hpfp will gunk up. And I know nothing about methonal. Is it bad for the engine or have side effects like the E85(hpfp gunking up). I Will do research and come back to that one.. thank you tho I almost forgot about that in all hickups I been having.

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
If you're going to chase that kind of power with a k04, you probably will want to stock up on spare k04's.
Yes I am planning on dropping a new turbo around Febuary to March of 2017. But hoping I can push this one a little before then and it make it... lol

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
Also, if you were referring to head studs, do not bother replacing them. Stockers are good up to ~500whp/wtq roughly.
Thanks great info I appreciate it
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 Old 09-06-2016, 10:20 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
If you're nervous about tuning it, then you really should not be tuning it. You don't want to blow it up because you have no clue what you're doing.
Well u live and u learn right... jk I'm going to dip my toe in and see what I come up with if I don't feel comfortable at any point I'll just put a premade map and wait for certain parts that require special attention like I guess I have to do a MAF sensor recalibration I think it was called for the 3.5" Full intake . I guess there's no premade map for that that also has the high flow down pipe map . I saw one bit it was for a different brand like Mazda performance or something like that. So I'm going to see if I have to start it to do the MAF recalibration. If so I might have to wait to pay a etuner. Idk it says for beginners so I'm sure there's some sort of instruction. I'm pretty savy when it come to figuring things out. Soo wish me luck...
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 Old 09-06-2016, 11:09 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Yes I saw that in the tuning guides, but I haven't gotten that far in terms of research. So I'm going to start researching what's the better option in terms of reliability. I believe from what I've read that I would have to get new in tank fuel pump to go E85 and I can only do a 50/50 blend if I do. Because the hpfp will gunk up. And I know nothing about methonal. Is it bad for the engine or have side effects like the E85(hpfp gunking up). I Will do research and come back to that one.. thank you tho I almost forgot about that in all hickups I been having.



Yes I am planning on dropping a new turbo around Febuary to March of 2017. But hoping I can push this one a little before then and it make it... lol



Thanks great info I appreciate it
You do not have to get a in tank fuel pump to run E85. Most of the car experiencing gunk in the HPFP are those running 100% e85. I've been running 4gal of E85 for two years and my HPFP is still good. Of course periodically cleaning it would not hurt if you do go the E85 route. Methanol is injected thru a nozzle that is tapped into your intercooler pipe. There are no side effects to injecting methanol.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 12:13 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Well u live and u learn right... jk I'm going to dip my toe in and see what I come up with if I don't feel comfortable at any point I'll just put a premade map and wait for certain parts that require special attention like I guess I have to do a MAF sensor recalibration I think it was called for the 3.5" Full intake . I guess there's no premade map for that that also has the high flow down pipe map . I saw one bit it was for a different brand like Mazda performance or something like that. So I'm going to see if I have to start it to do the MAF recalibration. If so I might have to wait to pay a etuner. Idk it says for beginners so I'm sure there's some sort of instruction. I'm pretty savy when it come to figuring things out. Soo wish me luck...
So you want to build a reliable car that pushes the limits of the stock block. Most of us here have been there. Inherently that's what we all want from our builds. Experiment with parts! Hell, I've been through 3 intakes, TMIC and FMIC, 3 different BPVs and 2 different RMMs. Don't experiment with the tune if reliability is paramount for you.

If you're going to take the approach that you'll learn as you go because Versatuner says "beginners can use it", that's a really bad approach to tuning. There are about 1,000,000 that can go wrong while tuning and you have little experience with the platform and the software; a combination that can be problematic. You can go from a simple value change to oh shit I didn't understand the relationship between these two numbers and I pulled too much timing and uh oh. If reliable is what you want, go the tried and true method. Contact an E-tuner, discuss with him what your installing and what your goals/concerns are, develop a timeline and go from there. If you want to learn to tune, I'd start by reading everything now because it sounds like you want to go the trial by error method and that's a quick way of blowing your shit up. Remember that more times than not, its the tune that fucked the engine.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 12:54 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by WAMBUSHHHH! View Post
So you want to build a reliable car that pushes the limits of the stock block. Most of us here have been there. Inherently that's what we all want from our builds. Experiment with parts! Hell, I've been through 3 intakes, TMIC and FMIC, 3 different BPVs and 2 different RMMs. Don't experiment with the tune if reliability is paramount for you.

If you're going to take the approach that you'll learn as you go because Versatuner says "beginners can use it", that's a really bad approach to tuning. There are about 1,000,000 that can go wrong while tuning and you have little experience with the platform and the software; a combination that can be problematic. You can go from a simple value change to oh shit I didn't understand the relationship between these two numbers and I pulled too much timing and uh oh. If reliable is what you want, go the tried and true method. Contact an E-tuner, discuss with him what your installing and what your goals/concerns are, develop a timeline and go from there. If you want to learn to tune, I'd start by reading everything now because it sounds like you want to go the trial by error method and that's a quick way of blowing your shit up. Remember that more times than not, its the tune that fucked the engine.
I dunno, if he wants to learn, how else is he going to learn other than just diving in and getting his nuts wet?
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 Old 09-06-2016, 01:18 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
I dunno, if he wants to learn, how else is he going to learn other than just diving in and getting his nuts wet?
Well personally, I'm very interested in learning how to tune, but to be as safe as possible, 1. I'm not going to try when my speed is my DD and only car and 2. I'd rather learn on a simpler platform that's naturally aspirated (eventual 2nd car). Just my thoughts.
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 Old 09-06-2016, 01:44 PM   #18
 
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I'm not too worried if it's not something I can handle I'll listen to my gut and just leave the 3.5" Full intake off and run ether the race pipe and versatuner's base tune until I get help or a etuner.. but I'd rather just see what I'm working with before I go running scared to a tuner. I bought the versatuner over the cobb ap because u could learn and tune your self... the guy from versatuner emailed me back to answer a question I had and in that response he says I can go with the high flow dp low or high load maps fine. The only part I'd have to go out on a limb would be to reconfigure the MAF for the 3.5" but like I said I could.just leave it off for a week or 2 and get money for etuner if I have too
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 Old 09-06-2016, 01:47 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
I dunno, if he wants to learn, how else is he going to learn other than just diving in and getting his nuts wet?
All well in good but it sounds like he's going to bolt on all these parts, have no base map, expect reliability and just wing it because Versatuner said beginners. He wants to learn, fine. But bolting on a ton of go fast parts with next to no knowledge on how t tune for it seems a little aggressive. If he stated with I plan on doing the intake and learning the MAF cal and how those values work then move into the exhaust and then working on things like timing, OK that seems reasonable. It just sounds like he's going to wing it, which is his choice.

Again, his car and he can approach this how ever he wants. I'm just saying the wing it approach to self tuning especially if he wants to push the limits of the stock block seems like a less than favorable approach.

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 Old 09-07-2016, 04:56 AM   #20
 
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As long as OP is smart, takes it slow with learning to tune, and READS A LOT, he'll be fine. I started off doing super basic boost-based tunes with almost nothing to them and worked my way up from there like everyone else. One thing about tuning for K04's, there isn't too much that can go wrong in the higher RPM's because the turbo doesn't flow well up there, so you can pretty much start with whatever map most closely resembles your mods (since the OTS timing maps are usually conservative), patch up the lower RPM's, and just roll with it. The VT maps can't be worse than Cobb's shit OTS tunes.

Granted I'm inclined to agree with others that the biggest danger to OP's engine is himself. His posts show an alarming lack of reading having been done so far.

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
1) Did I forget anything? I'm not looking to build the engine internals. Just wanting to push the stock setup to its limits without blowing it up or becoming unreliable.
A turbo upgrade is also in due time. But for now keeping stock turbo.

2)what boost numbers should I see? and what numbers should I never see? (if I want to keep my stock rods and pistons and block intact)

3)do I need to look at upgrading valve cover bolts? (Since I'm staying under 400whp, which is what I've read is the stock limit and that I should stay around 370 to 380 whp.)
All standard turbo engine upgrade guides say it's one of the first things you get. yet the speed 6 guides dont. Just want to check.

4) since the oem ecu runs off load and not boost. What is the max load numbers I need to stay under to avoid a bent rod or thrown piston?

5)do I need to worry about the fuel injectors seals? (I read about people doing it but most of them had a built motor so im unsure if thats something that's only needed when exceeding the 400 whp mark)
1) Always plan on blowing up any time you ask for V8 power from an I4, no matter how well engineered the engine is.
2) Read on the site. There are thousands of datalogs for you to review.
3) Already covered above - one note to add - you have AWD, adjust your whp targets accordingly.
4) Depending on the accuracy of the MAF cal, your load numbers will vary slightly from others but I'd plan on staying around 2.50 calculated load or less. I like to set my fuel cut at 2.65 on my car (it kicks in at about 2.70 or so). Haven't bent a rod yet even though I've had a wastegate line crack or pop off multiple times, while on E85. The pistons will almost never outright fail, but the ringlands will crack if you overheat or get too much knock, which will cause a loss in power and oil consumption.
5) Yes. Replace with CS seals.
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 Old 09-07-2016, 07:45 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Yes I saw that in the tuning guides, but I haven't gotten that far in terms of research. So I'm going to start researching what's the better option in terms of reliability. I believe from what I've read that I would have to get new in tank fuel pump to go E85 and I can only do a 50/50 blend if I do. Because the hpfp will gunk up. And I know nothing about methonal. Is it bad for the engine or have side effects like the E85(hpfp gunking up). I Will do research and come back to that one.. thank you tho I almost forgot about that in all hickups I been having.
Meth gives 2 primary benefits. You get both cooling and higher octane.

Definitely look into wmi and E85. The only reason I don't run an E85 mix is because there aren't any stations close by that make it worth it. Like said above, you don't need an additional fuel pump and as long as you are cleaning your hpfp if you are running above a 50/50 blend, you won't have any problems.

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 Old 09-07-2016, 12:47 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by white devil View Post
Meth gives 2 primary benefits. You get both cooling and higher octane.

Definitely look into wmi and E85. The only reason I don't run an E85 mix is because there aren't any stations close by that make it worth it. Like said above, you don't need an additional fuel pump and as long as you are cleaning your hpfp if you are running above a 50/50 blend, you won't have any problems.
I will definitely look into it.. thanks I appreciate the info
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 Old 09-07-2016, 12:52 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
As long as OP is smart, takes it slow with learning to tune, and READS A LOT, he'll be fine. I started off doing super basic boost-based tunes with almost nothing to them and worked my way up from there like everyone else. One thing about tuning for K04's, there isn't too much that can go wrong in the higher RPM's because the turbo doesn't flow well up there, so you can pretty much start with whatever map most closely resembles your mods (since the OTS timing maps are usually conservative), patch up the lower RPM's, and just roll with it. The VT maps can't be worse than Cobb's shit OTS tunes.

Granted I'm inclined to agree with others that the biggest danger to OP's engine is himself. His posts show an alarming lack of reading having been done so far.



1) Always plan on blowing up any time you ask for V8 power from an I4, no matter how well engineered the engine is.
2) Read on the site. There are thousands of datalogs for you to review.
3) Already covered above - one note to add - you have AWD, adjust your whp targets accordingly.
4) Depending on the accuracy of the MAF cal, your load numbers will vary slightly from others but I'd plan on staying around 2.50 calculated load or less. I like to set my fuel cut at 2.65 on my car (it kicks in at about 2.70 or so). Haven't bent a rod yet even though I've had a wastegate line crack or pop off multiple times, while on E85. The pistons will almost never outright fail, but the ringlands will crack if you overheat or get too much knock, which will cause a loss in power and oil consumption.
5) Yes. Replace with CS seals.
Thanks for the Info. I didn't realize you could view data logs on here with out it being in a post. And I haven't run I to any so I will check that out really good info Thanks
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
My Questions are:
1) Did I forget anything? I'm not looking to build the engine internals. Just wanting to push the stock setup to its limits without blowing it up or becoming unreliable.
A turbo upgrade is also in due time. But for now keeping stock turbo.

2)what boost numbers should I see? and what numbers should I never see? (if I want to keep my stock rods and pistons and block intact)

3)do I need to look at upgrading valve cover bolts? (Since I'm staying under 400whp, which is what I've read is the stock limit and that I should stay around 370 to 380 whp.)
All standard turbo engine upgrade guides say it's one of the first things you get. yet the speed 6 guides dont. Just want to check.

4) since the oem ecu runs off load and not boost. What is the max load numbers I need to stay under to avoid a bent rod or thrown piston?

5)do I need to worry about the fuel injectors seals? (I read about people doing it but most of them had a built motor so im unsure if thats something that's only needed when exceeding the 400 whp mark)
1. With the factory turbo you can live with the stock internals for quite a while. You just need to control the torque limit and ramp-up in the 2500-3200rpm range;

2. The problem will not be the strength of your block if the tune is done right, but the turbo. It cannot push too hard for too long unless you have additional cooling (pre-turbo meth as well as post IC meth). Adding meth injection will result in additional power and a safer setup.

3. the valve cover doesn't see too much pressure. Those are fine even in 800whp setups;

4. with the mods listed in your signature, on pump gas only, I'd do something like: load 1.8 at 2500rpm, 2.0 at 3000, 2.1 max 2.2 from 3500 to 5000, 2.0-1.95 at 5500/6000, 1.85 at 6500, 1.7 at 7000.

5. Don't worry, you will not exceed 400whp, you will not even go too much above 300whp without meth. Even with meth the factory turbo will not be able to push too much (and safe, repeatedly) above like 320-330 crank HP. My injector seals were fine at 390 crank HP and about 380 crank tq.

Your greatest concern when upping the boost should be cooling. Meth injection even with small nozzles just for cooling will help tremendously both with the BATs and the cylinder temps.
A larger radiator will help a lot as well especially if in your area you have a climate with hot summers.
Even with a big turbo pushing the factory fuelling system at its limits (about 380-400 crank HP in cooler days) will not put your internals at risk if the tune is well balanced (boost/timing/boost and load control/detonation mitigation). However, heat will.
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 Old 11-22-2016, 10:38 AM   #25
 
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Had a question. When adding a 3.5" tru wide flow intake. Which includes a 3.5" maf housing. Is adding the premade maf cal found on this site for various intakes the only thing you have to do in the way of tuning for it?

I edited my first map and added the premade maf cal, as well as 150 rpm to idle to combat the cycling rough idle I guess the big jbr intake are known for. But the car feels less responsive to Throttle and when you onto boost it good but like shifting (going from boost on to boost off) the car like chugs once as it goes into boost each shift. ( so it like hesitates for a second and then your good. I feel as tho there was something else in the tune I was supposed to edit. For the intake for the car to be happy. I'm running the intake with versatuner's 91oct/tip+cai with the added maf cal and 150 rpm to idle. But now in the last couple days I got this check engine light for lean condition at idle bank 1. It came and went away then came back. I'll upload a log of two 3rd gear pulls and one log at idle with light on. If it helps ill also upload at small drive log. When I look at the idle log I don't see any deviations in the air to fuel. But in the small drive when I was sitting at lights the air to fuel would slowly creep up to 15's air to fuel. So not sure what's going or how to fix... I appreciate any help

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 Old 11-22-2016, 11:19 AM   #26
 
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You need to do a proper maf cal adjustment even with the pre-made or suggested maf-cal starting points.
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 Old 11-22-2016, 11:49 AM   #27
 
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Larger intakes tend to take away some of the low end part throttle response. So does deleting the VTCS. Both lead to lower air velocity in the intake even if the actual flow is about the same.

Now about your logs: the tune seems to be full time closed loop. If you did that only because you're not confident your MAF cal is ok then check this thread:
MAF calibrations for bigger intakes
The AFRs are too rich even for 91 octane pump gas and as you can easily see in the second log they will not prevent knock (you didn't log the BAT to help us figure out more about what may be causing that pretty significant knock at those relatively low load/boost levels).
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 Old 11-22-2016, 01:20 PM   #28
 
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I'm didn't change anything but adding the maf cal from the same page you linked me too and i added 150 rpm to the idle to deal with a know issuse with jbr big intakes is it idling rough. But not all the time just as it cycles. Anyhow I never changed the open or closed loop. Could that be because I used the versatuner's base 91(but the one that for tip and cai) to help control boost maybe?

This is what the description for the tune says:


Base 91US 95EU Octane with CAI+TIP
Version: 2.12
91US/95EU + Octane tune for stock or near stock vehicles. CAI and Turbo Inlet Pipe are OK. Stock DP is required. Provides slightly increased boost, revised fuel and spark, and throttle is opened over an extended range. Boost control adjusted for CAI/SRI and TIP.

I can't use three quarters of the premade tunes from versatuner
Because almost all of them are for 93 octane and in colorado. We don't have that. And I could go E85 looking into it. But my boss at work has 2015 wrx and I k ow it's not a speed but he was running full E85 and had to go back to 91 because the cold season. He could start his nice brand new car for like 10 min and aftwr pushing it out of his drive way. So that's why I'm just seeing my options. I asked versatuner thru customer support and the guy said this...

2.0 load is 2.0 load no matter where you are, that's why OEMs do load based tuning.— Load is an absolute measure of the air mass in the chamber and largely determines the cylinder pressure which is what is important to knock.

Our tunes are pretty conservative all around, but I would start with the 91 octane tune and adjust up from there while monitoring for knock.— Better to be safe than sorry.—

A log won't directly tell you if you're losing power from blowby or friction loss.— You can export in virtual dyno csv format and look at the wheel horsepower in virtual dyno for comparison with another car with similar configuration.— You can compare your wheel tq to someone else's in the same gear and at the same load and rpm.— If you have a compression problem, you will see lower fuel economy.

You can post a log on the forum for a general sanity check.

My question to him:

I'll just ask you if that's cool.. I live in colorado and out here you can't fine 93 octane. but when I do search for it —I come across write ups talking about because the high altitude that 91 us basically 93 out here... —so does that mean I can use the base 93 tunes with just 91 premium and it be good

Sooo. I'll take another log and add the bat in a 4th gear pull and add it asap

I was wondering g of it was the maf cal needing adjusting. The reason I went ahead and asked was on the same page that was linked for maf cals for bigger intake somewhere in all those pages there were people saying they used the intake and maf cal I have and I was right on the money.. with in 2% in stft I believe it said... just wanted to be sure. I post log asap
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 Old 11-22-2016, 02:01 PM   #29
 
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One 3rd gear pull and one 4th gear pull. oil temp was at 192°F I had tp do a second round which is why the oil temp is higher it was at around 188°F, when I did first round but realized I left heater on. So I'm not uploading those... the one I uploaded are heater off
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File Type: csv 3rd pull.csv (10.4 KB, 3 views)
File Type: csv 4th pull.csv (12.7 KB, 1 views)
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 Old 11-22-2016, 11:25 PM   #30
 
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The logs you presented seem to be taken with a stock tune, eventually with the MAF cal applied. Even so it's weird because the ECU stays in closed loop all the time. Weird...

Can you post your versatuner tune?
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 Old 11-23-2016, 03:03 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
The logs you presented seem to be taken with a stock tune, eventually with the MAF cal applied. Even so it's weird because the ECU stays in closed loop all the time. Weird...

Can you post your versatuner tune?
Yeah versatuner only offers two maps for 91 octane. But they only up the boost slightly. I'm honestly disappointed.. when I ordered the versatuner I asked if it had premade maps like the access port. They said yeah and there are ones for a high flow cat. But they are all for 93 octane. So I have to tune from here... here is the map I edited
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File Type: zip versatune map.zip (57.8 KB, 2 views)
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 Old 11-23-2016, 10:11 AM   #32
 
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Indeed it's the base 91. With your mods I think you can go with the high load map boost and load settings (both targets and limits) and see where that gets you.

Or hire a professional tuner and get the best out of it.
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 Old 11-25-2016, 10:49 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Indeed it's the base 91. With your mods I think you can go with the high load map boost and load settings (both targets and limits) and see where that gets you.

Or hire a professional tuner and get the best out of it.
If I did use the targets and limits from the 93 octane tune. Wouldn't I like take how much it Says to switch it to and take some away ( like lower the number slightly to make up for the 2 octane I'd be missing) so I don't ask for too much and cause knock because it's made for 93 octane gas and I can only run 91 octane here in colorado. Or switch to E85 blend but I'm going to wait for that.


I have a 3" Catless downpipe and a 3" Catless test pipe. But waiting to pass emissions. My tags are up in January. So after that I'm going th throw those on and really have some fun but for now I'm trying to iron everything out with the current setup before I move forward. Like tuning the maf cal to perfection and then chill until I get tags...
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 Old 11-25-2016, 10:57 AM   #34
 
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I found how to for maf cal..
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 Old 11-25-2016, 12:32 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
If I did use the targets and limits from the 93 octane tune. Wouldn't I like take how much it Says to switch it to and take some away ( like lower the number slightly to make up for the 2 octane I'd be missing) so I don't ask for too much and cause knock because it's made for 93 octane gas and I can only run 91 octane here in colorado. Or switch to E85 blend but I'm going to wait for that.


I have a 3" Catless downpipe and a 3" Catless test pipe. But waiting to pass emissions. My tags are up in January. So after that I'm going th throw those on and really have some fun but for now I'm trying to iron everything out with the current setup before I move forward. Like tuning the maf cal to perfection and then chill until I get tags...
What do you mean by throw on the catless DP/TP and really have fun? Not like putting those on will get you another 35-40hp. And most likely it isn't even a restriction in your current system.

If you have to pass emissions, you might as well leave it catted.
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Really??? when I read up on the mods to do down pipe came up as one of the have too's. I read it really brings the car to life.... and as well as the race pipe....

what would be the biggest restrictions then?

I already have a 3.5" Full intake I got a Tr6 fmic core with 2.5" piping because I'm not going built motor and I didn't want alot of lag, I read was associated with going bigger intercooler piping..

that doesn't make sense??? When getting more power from your car you have to open the intake and the exhust to let it breath before you turn it way up
( as supporting mods for the requested hp targets to come)..

so am I lost? The only other thing I can think of is the intake and exhust manifolds. And why would I go catted? doesn't that eat potential hp? I'd rather turn it up a little more and change the DP and race pipe every 2 years. . Is their any other benefits from going with a 3" (catted) downpipe over a catless one? And I'm trying to push the car to its limits, that would need all bolts on pretty much right? What am I missing here?
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 Old 11-25-2016, 01:27 PM   #37
 
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Hey if u have experience and have advice I'm all ears
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly
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 Old 11-25-2016, 11:41 PM   #38
 
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If you want to pass the smog test you may also want to put the factory intake back on, just to be sure, in case you also need to pass some visual inspection as part of the smog test.

As for your advice, I thought you've got yours. Hire a professional tuner to get a proper tune for your setup. Anyway I'd wait until March because you also have the smog test in Jan and during winter assuming that you will find a good clean road to do your logging, the engines run a lot better which may result in a sub-optimal or even dangerous behaviour of the tune + setup during hot summer days (even though professional tuners know pretty much how to address the shape of all timinig/boost/load curves).
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 Old 04-13-2017, 03:17 AM   #39
 
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UPDATE

--------Purchased----------
BNR S4 V2 1300 ****P
Grimmspeed Ebcs $125 ****P
Guardian angel $220 ****P
HTP 3.5" intake $300 ***P
Power steering o-ring$15 ****P
2in1 oil sandwhich plate$108 ****P
Transfer case bearing caps $167***P
Engine Magnetic Drian plug w/C washer$25**P
Turbo oil feed line $70 ****P
Diff Mounts $500 ***P
Exhaust manifold gasket $ ***P
Spark plugs $40 ***P
Dual Occ $385 ***P
Pcv vent plate $165 ****P
Oil cooler kit $142 ***P
Rear sway bar $218 ***P
Transmission crush washer$ ***P
Rear diff crush washers $ ****P
Transfer case crush washers $ ****P
Oil pressure guage w/alarm $80 ****P
Sway bar linkage(rear) $115****P
Egr delete
3" catless downpipe
3" sure catless test pipe
coolant X2
Oil
$350 for street tune
Cleaning and reusing oil return line

I was just trying to make sure I didn't forget anything. Of u see anything missing please let me know. I'm trying to shoot for no hickups!!! Smooth install..
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 Old 04-13-2017, 03:55 AM   #40
 
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Ok, just limit the number of identical posts to 1 across the entire forum.
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Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PSS 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend ENduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, SU TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI
SP63 87.5mm 4032 9.5:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, Clevite AL main bearings, King rod bearings, CP-e safe seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
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