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 Old 04-24-2017, 06:57 AM   #1
 
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Default VVT Sprocket

I already read up on what the forums think about VVT sprockts... It's DCR or OEM and that Dormans work for a temporary fix. My question is this... The OEM VVT is aluminum, is it not? I can't afford a DCR right now and tthe OEM sprocket is aluminum which I'm sure is the reason why the internals of the sprocket snap. The Dorman is STEEL and zinc plated, which is much stronger than aluminum. I understand our blocks are all aluminum but that's what I believe a lot of our weakness is too. I did the thermostat and the bolts are aluminum... they effing snapped. Replaced with steel/zinc plated and holds up much better. So why do people hate on the Dorman so much if it fits flush and is a stronger material...?

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 Old 04-24-2017, 08:10 AM   #2
 
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Vansquish, why the groan..?
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 Old 04-24-2017, 08:14 AM   #3
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Because it was groan-worthy post.

1. You managed to He-man the bolts on the thermostat (there's no reason that you should've been torquing them anywhere near enough for that to happen).

2. Galvanic corrosion. You've added zinc and steel which, under normal driving circumstances in even a moderately humid environment, will cause significant galvanic corrosion of both the bolt and the engine block.

3. If you had bothered to read up on the replacement units that are available, you'd know that Mazda has redesigned the VVT actuator to address the shortcomings of the original design, and that very few people run anything other than the redesigned stock VVT unit.
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 Old 04-24-2017, 08:44 AM   #4
 
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Well thanks for the input.

1. My brother in law crossthreaded the top one I admit, but I screwed one in perfectly and didn't even have resistance hand tightening it almost all the way and when I started to torque it snapped so no.... I didn't he-man.

2. I did not know that zince and steel would corrode... but it is being lubbed by oil in a confined are where almost no moisture should be besides the heat produced...

3. I understand that they addressed the VVT issue but it's still aluminum... and who is to say I'm not getting an old one.

4. I think you could of addressed me first before groaning... I understand you've been on here for a while but I'm new and actually trying to learn how to use this site so I don't have assholes try and talk crap as well as I try and never ask for help and do things on my own. I search as much as I can and that's why I have no actual posts besides this and my intro. So thanks for your royalty... People on every car forum are the same, yes people are lazy to look for their own answers that have been given but if someone who is actually trying and doesn't even speak like a noob because he has enough understanding and just wants input from others to enhance his knowledge, you should at least give a chance before jumping the gun.

5. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Because it was groan-worthy post.

1. You managed to He-man the bolts on the thermostat (there's no reason that you should've been torquing them anywhere near enough for that to happen).

2. Galvanic corrosion. You've added zinc and steel which, under normal driving circumstances in even a moderately humid environment, will cause significant galvanic corrosion of both the bolt and the engine block.

3. If you had bothered to read up on the replacement units that are available, you'd know that Mazda has redesigned the VVT actuator to address the shortcomings of the original design, and that very few people run anything other than the redesigned stock VVT unit.
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 Old 04-24-2017, 08:50 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Degaitus View Post
Well thanks for the input.

1. My brother in law crossthreaded the top one I admit, but I screwed one in perfectly and didn't even have resistance hand tightening it almost all the way and when I started to torque it snapped so no.... I didn't he-man.

2. I did not know that zince and steel would corrode... but it is being lubbed by oil in a confined are where almost no moisture should be besides the heat produced...

3. I understand that they addressed the VVT issue but it's still aluminum... and who is to say I'm not getting an old one.

4. I think you could of addressed me first before groaning... I understand you've been on here for a while but I'm new and actually trying to learn how to use this site so I don't have assholes try and talk crap as well as I try and never ask for help and do things on my own. I search as much as I can and that's why I have no actual posts besides this and my intro. So thanks for your royalty... People on every car forum are the same, yes people are lazy to look for their own answers that have been given but if someone who is actually trying and doesn't even speak like a noob because he has enough understanding and just wants input from others to enhance his knowledge, you should at least give a chance before jumping the gun.

5. Thanks.
For a point of reference with respect to galvanic corrosion as it applies to aluminum, zinc, and steel look towards the bottom of this page:

Aluminium Corrosion Resistance - Aluminium Design
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 Old 04-24-2017, 09:12 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
For a point of reference with respect to galvanic corrosion as it applies to aluminum, zinc, and steel look towards the bottom of this page:

Aluminium Corrosion Resistance - Aluminium Design
Lmao I can't figure out how to keep quoting the convo... but anyway, that article definitely helped. I have to verify the bolts and I'll change em but I can't do aluminum cuz of the crossthread, it'll just snap. I had to use washers inorder to hold it. I guess I could torque it to the washers... I'll do that asap cuz it's exposed opposed to the sprocket.

In regards to the VVT sprocket, I can understand your point. But I think it could last enough time till I have enough for a DCR. Which I just read is essentially a refurb of the oem no? Just enhanced? You can send them yours and possibly get a deal as long as it's refurbish-able.
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 Old 04-24-2017, 09:39 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Degaitus View Post
Lmao I can't figure out how to keep quoting the convo... but anyway, that article definitely helped. I have to verify the bolts and I'll change em but I can't do aluminum cuz of the crossthread, it'll just snap. I had to use washers inorder to hold it. I guess I could torque it to the washers... I'll do that asap cuz it's exposed opposed to the sprocket.

In regards to the VVT sprocket, I can understand your point. But I think it could last enough time till I have enough for a DCR. Which I just read is essentially a refurb of the oem no? Just enhanced? You can send them yours and possibly get a deal as long as it's refurbish-able.
My VVT actuator was replaced under warranty with the revised OEM unit before I bought my car (i.e. before 42,500 miles). My car just rolled over 150,000 miles with the revised OEM actuator. That's more than 107k on the revised actuator, and more than 80k at significantly greater than stock power and torque levels.

There's literally no reason to buy the DCR unit, and if I'd known that at 75k miles when I bought the replacement DCR VVT actuator that's sitting in my closet, I would never have bought it.
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 Old 04-24-2017, 09:49 AM   #8
 
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Hmmm, I dig it. Im at 164k stock. I bought it at 160k with cylind 2 misfire. I did plugs and stretched coils springs, no more misfire, threw me a temp code, did stat, gone, boost leak, fixed. Other than that it's pretty good and no codes 500+ miles but I am hearing the vvt and checked slack in chain after driving and still slack. So I'm doing the whole thing. I tried finding it but everyone speaks on the regular subject of vvt noise and then that there is rev hang for smoothness in shifts. But I personally think I'm getting slight rev hang from I guess prolonged timing on intake because of VVT, input on that?
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 Old 04-24-2017, 11:03 AM   #9
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A little bit of rev hang is designed into the OEM tune to improve emissions and (at least theoretically) drivability.
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 Old 04-24-2017, 11:09 AM   #10
 
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Okay, thanks for the input.
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
My VVT actuator was replaced under warranty with the revised OEM unit before I bought my car (i.e. before 42,500 miles). My car just rolled over 150,000 miles with the revised OEM actuator. That's more than 107k on the revised actuator, and more than 80k at significantly greater than stock power and torque levels.

There's literally no reason to buy the DCR unit, and if I'd known that at 75k miles when I bought the replacement DCR VVT actuator that's sitting in my closet, I would never have bought it.
Do you still have that DCR VVT sitting in your closet? My closet needs one badly.
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