Won't you Fix my BAT's?

[helmetface]

I hate to make a repeat thread like this, but in bold-below you'll see my primary query:

My BAT related mods:

FMIC
TB Coolant disconnected
Weather stripping Removed
Plastic removed that sits in the grill directly in front of the intake.

With the above mods, in this lovely summer weather I am still seeing 30+ degrees above ambient. When I go WOT, my bat's do of course drop significantly and I understand that in the end that is all that matters but I'd like to go for par here and really get to the bottom of my cooling in-capabilities.

I'm not interested in TiG's nor am I am interested in Meth(at the moment, I understand this is a 'sure' fix) Does anyone have part number(s) for the coolant re-routing hoses that I've seen some partake in? I feel like that would be the "next" step to aiding in my woes, and a minimally expensive one as well.

I understand it's summertime and this is a part of life, but I'll do what I can with what I've got for the time being.

[himurax13]

Do you have Cold Air Intake or Short Ram? Are you using the Intake Temp readings as the Ambient temperature?

[dpolseno41]

You're such a bitch.

[chimmike]

wtf do you expect?if you no want 30* above ambients, get methanol.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by himurax13 Do you have Cold Air Intake or Short Ram? Are you using the Intake Temp readings as the Ambient temperature?

I'm running an SRI

I'm actually not referencing the intake temps, I am basing this all off Boost Air Temps, and describing that my BAT's are generally 30+ above the outdoor temperature.

Originally Posted by dpolseno41 You're such a bitch.

I know I am but what are you?

Originally Posted by chimmike wtf do you expect?if you no want 30* above ambients, get methanol.

I expect a bit more reasonable numbers, I've already stated in the OP that I wasn't interested in Meth currently.

[802MS3]

just how it is homie. if you really want to lower bats, run the pipes underneath the motor, and wrap or ceramic coat the manifold, turbine housing, and upper part of the downpipe. imo, the majority of the heat comes from the exhaust, especially if you remove the OEM heatshielding from the dp.

[Speeden6]

Taking the heatshield off the DP when i went Ebay DP fucked me! my bats run like 50-60 hotter with the TMIC! if i didnt live in Oregon and we actually got hot days more than twice a year i would look at meth but not worth it since the rest of the time we are at like 40 degrees all year round.

Meth will do the trick.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 just how it is homie. if you really want to lower bats, run the pipes underneath the motor, and wrap or ceramic coat the manifold, turbine housing, and upper part of the downpipe. imo, the majority of the heat comes from the exhaust, especially if you remove the OEM heatshielding from the dp.

I love the idea of running the plumbing under the car, sadly I'm stuck with the kit I've got currently.

I'm still sporting my OEM Heatshield, which I know makes a substantial difference.


What I'm gathering from everyone is that the coolant re-routing doesn't do as much as I'd hope it would?

[dpolseno41]

Originally Posted by helmetfail I love the idea of running the plumbing under the car, sadly I'm stuck with the kit I've got currently. I'm still sporting my OEM Heatshield, which I know makes a substantial difference. What I'm gathering from everyone is that the coolant re-routing doesn't do as much as I'd hope it would?

Definitely still get that coolant hose off of the pipes if it is resting on it. I just used two zip ties. You can check out my set up Sunday, but then again I'm not a bitch so I gotz teh mefz.

[Dano]

go E85

/thread

no IC needed E doesn't give a fuck about BATS....lol


but seriously I just zip tied my coolant hose to my recirc hose port and no more coolant line touchey cold pipe...BATs did drop significantly.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by dpolseno41 Definitely still get that coolant hose off of the pipes if it is resting on it. I just used two zip ties. You can check out my set up Sunday, but then again I'm not a bitch so I gotz teh mefz.

Ya I've got mine secured away from the pipes with ties probably similarly.

[Cheeto]

I hear ya bro, I live in Austin Texas and it gets very hot here I am in the exact same boat try to keep my BAT temps down. We just have to deal with it and go easy on them during the summer. "If someone was on my back whipping me I would get hot and pissed off too"............oppppps thats gay. You know what I mean.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by Dano go E85 /thread no IC needed E doesn't give a fuck about BATS....lol but seriously I just zip tied my coolant hose to my recirc hose port and no more coolant line touchey cold pipe...BATs did drop significantly.

Ya closest e station is 40 minutes away..and yet I see flexfuel vehicles everywhere...fucking MA

[Dano]

Originally Posted by helmetfail Ya closest e station is 40 minutes away..and yet I see flexfuel vehicles everywhere...fucking MA

poor bastard! yeah time to move...need to set priories straight

E85 for car > job,friends,etc.

edit: BTW we got E85 in two shell stations here a full 2 months before any of the interwebz locators knew about it so keep looking around. I completely stumbled onto it....total win.

[franz]

Out of curiousity what are the highest BATs you have seen? Like when you stop somewhere for 20-30 minutes and restart the car.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by franz Out of curiousity what are the highest BATs you have seen? Like when you stop somewhere for 20-30 minutes and restart the car.

Highest? LOL I'm about to scare you...Whilst on my road trip last month, sitting in traffic(litterally not moving) for roughly 3 hours I hit 180*

Generally though, in a situation like the one you've described 130-140 is the absolute peak, once I start moving I'll be between 110-120

[franz]

Originally Posted by helmetfail Highest? LOL I'm about to scare you...Whilst on my road trip last month, sitting in traffic(litterally not moving) for roughly 3 hours I hit 180* Generally though, in a situation like the one you've described 130-140 is the absolute peak, once I start moving I'll be between 110-120

Shit I havent seen 180 yet, but with the stock TMIC it is around 155-165 when I restart it and obviously takes quite a few miles before any serious drop in BATs. I removed the weather striping, but I didnt see much change in BATs. The TIGs will go in Sunday and the FMIC soon after.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by franz Shit I havent seen 180 yet, but with the stock TMIC it is around 155-165 when I restart it. I removed the weather striping, but I didnt see much change in BATs. The TIGs will go in Sunday and the FMIC soon after.

Did you contact CS yet about the fitment issues we had? Is it indeed necessary to use their TiP+Intake with the FMIC? Or were we just tired and retarded.

Ya, I didn't notice any difference with the weather stripping, same with the TB coolant bypass.

[Monotonous ONE]

Dont be a bitchass faggot. Tigs make all the difference in the world.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE Dont be a bitchass faggot. Tigs make all the difference in the world.

Oh shit, okay, I'll get one now.









Mr. Hicks would smack you right about now.

[Monotonous ONE]

Why would he do that?

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE Why would he do that?

He doesn't like you using his portrait for your gainz


He came to me in a dream and told me so.



Beware

[chimmike]

put the weatherstripping back on. No proof removing it helps, and may in fact hurt, as the engineers designed airflow thru the engine bay in a specific manner, and fucking that up probably causes low pressure areas where air just sits and stagnates. If anything, build air guides to more efficiently channel fresh air from the front of the car.

[SLOWHATCH]

What a waste of thread. HMM lets see, you know what methods are proven to reduce BAT's yet you choose to ignore them. I don't normally talk shit but you are a dumbass. Stick with your high bat's if you want to ignore the basics. There is no magical way to reduce bat's without doing the obvious shit.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH What a waste of thread. HMM lets see, you know what methods are proven to reduce BAT's yet you choose to ignore them. I don't normally talk shit but you are a dumbass. Stick with your high bat's if you want to ignore the basics. There is no magical way to reduce bat's without doing the obvious shit.

Get the fuck out of my thread.

I am not ignoring anything, I don't currently have the money to throw on a meth kit, so I am trying to find ALTERNATIVE methods.

[dpolseno41]

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH What a waste of thread. HMM lets see, you know what methods are proven to reduce BAT's yet you choose to ignore them. I don't normally talk shit but you are a dumbass. Stick with your high bat's if you want to ignore the basics. There is no magical way to reduce bat's without doing the obvious shit.

This is so full of win.

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by chimmike put the weatherstripping back on. No proof removing it helps, and may in fact hurt, as the engineers designed airflow thru the engine bay in a specific manner, and fucking that up probably causes low pressure areas where air just sits and stagnates. If anything, build air guides to more efficiently channel fresh air from the front of the car.

i dropped 10 degrees in bat and iat in the same conditions as with it. consistently, with no other mods. on a ms6 theres little to no airflow out of the engine bay and 90% of air that enters is preheated through the radiator or tmic if it is still used. so i respectfully disagree.

[86azms3]

Ok BAT's come from the MAP sensor on the manifold. During cruise the air is much more stagnant in the manifold and the manifold heatsoaks the air. Once WOT the air is not stagnant and the manifold does not have enough time to transfer heat to the air.

So to get cruise BAT's down. The intake manifold needs to be cooler. Where are your sources of heat?

1. The cylinder head/block since the manifold is directy connected to it and the gasket between the two is metal. You can slow the heat coming from here with TIG's. I have them...they help

2. Air coming in the manifold from the FMIC and associated piping. If the cold pipe is indeed hot...try wrapping with some DEI reflect a gold. This is what I'm ordering for my pipes.
A. It looks pretty
B. It is fiberglass and should help to insulate the piping from underhood temps

3. The manifold is right in front of the radiator...so a lot of the air that comes into contact with the manifold has just passed through the radiator. My guess is...this is where the other majority of the heat is coming from. You basically need to draw in more fresh air to the manifold and or engine bay
A. No hood or cut some more ducting and route to mani
B. Do some under hood ducting and pull air from under the car to mani


1. and 3. are your two biggest contributors...2. is probably minor but still might be worthwhile

[SLOWHATCH]

Originally Posted by helmetfail Get the fuck out of my thread. I am not ignoring anything, I don't currently have the money to throw on a meth kit, so I am trying to find ALTERNATIVE methods.

The juices from your vag might help.

Just to throw this out there, not even methanol helps during cruising, obviously since its triggered by boost. Remove weather stripping, coolant bypass and install tigs. Maybe look into relocating the bat sensor? Pretty sure it would just be easier to start with the easier stuff which you strongly oppose.

[chimmike]

Originally Posted by chuckms6 i dropped 10 degrees in bat and iat in the same conditions as with it. consistently, with no other mods. on a ms6 theres little to no airflow out of the engine bay and 90% of air that enters is preheated through the radiator or tmic if it is still used. so i respectfully disagree.

the open space between the underpan and the back of the firewall is where the air is designed to exit. Hence weatherstripping around the hood, air flows thru ducts in front to the tmic, as well as thru the radiator, and is pulled out from the opening at the bottom rear of the engine bay. that's the airflow design from Mazda.

[StayBroke]

Honestly why are you worried about bat's cruising.....as 86azms3 stated, the block will heat up the intake manifold so therefore you bats will climb. I don't care what cruising bats are i care about my wot bats.

1. And there is only so much you can do to help cruising bats: wrap the whole hot side pipe(including the compressor outlet) in reflected/insulated tape, shit might as well do the cold side to.

2. Take intake manifold off Somehow wrap that in reflective tape, then make a duct out of sheet metal to have fresh air run over the manifold.

3. If this does not work then sell car and buy a n/a because im out of ideas. lol

I don't have any of this done but would like to do it, just no time.....but i see 15 to 20 degrees above ambient WHILE cruising.

[superskaterxes]

first of all you shouldent be comparing your BATS to your AAT's or that little display on your dash.
neither of those sensors are completely accurate and are never even the same as each other.

air first enters your motor at the INTAKE therefore you should be looking at your IAT's. if your BAT's are close to or the same as your IAT's then your system is doing a good job of keeping the air thats coming into the intake at the same temp. if your BAT's are way higher then your IAT's then somewhere in your intake path your heating up the air.

most likely your radiator wash is heating up your IM and causing the problem which is almost unavoidable. a TIG will also greatly help because you no longer have a 300 deg surface touching a 125 deg surface so theres no heat transfer.

removing the weather stripping DOES help. mazda did not give a fuck about any sort of airflow into/out of the engine bay hence why the stock BAT flag tables are at 194 degF.


so to wrap things up:

1. make sure you keep your IAT's as cool as possible. its alot easier to keep cool air cool then trying to cool down hot air.
2. buy a TIG
3. remove weather stripping

[StayBroke]

^ you sir are right on point on its easier to keep cool air than to try and cool hot air down.

[chimmike]

NEVER wrap your IC piping. EVER. Build heat shields, etc, but NEVER wrap your IC piping. Any of it. I will never figure out how the fuck people come up with this idea, you're trapping heat IN just like when you wrap exhaust pipes.

BEGi - - Corky's Comments - Corkys_Comment_Intercooling

And I still think doing some proper ducting and taping off areas to guide airflow will be more effective too.

[themytb]

Originally Posted by chimmike NEVER wrap your IC piping. EVER. Build heat shields, etc, but NEVER wrap your IC piping. Any of it. I will never figure out how the fuck people come up with this idea, you're trapping heat IN just like when you wrap exhaust pipes. BEGi - - Corky's Comments - Corkys_Comment_Intercooling And I still think doing some proper ducting and taping off areas to guide airflow will be more effective too.

You (and Corky) are wrong........ sometimes lol. The whole premise depends on the surrounding air being cooler than the air flowing inside the tube. If the air outside the tube is hotter you are wrong, if the air is the same temp it is a wash.
Those of us running fmic piping over the engine have a tube surrounded by air that is just as hot at least IMO.
My piping is wrapped partially because I hate fucking chrome looking shit in my engine bay and partially due to rubbing in spots( last year one of my pipes ate a whole into an A/C line).
Someday I plan on going custom fmic with a same side(vertical flow) core at that time I will powdercoat my tubes.

[chimmike]

Put a temp sensor in the compressor outlet and one in the engine bay nearby. I can guarantee the air out of that compressor is gonna be hotter, especially under boost, than the surrounding. That's my argument. I have to deal with hot IATs and BATs 10 months out of the year........which is why I went fmic and METH!

If anything, get some stainless steel plate (thin gauge) and make a complete heat shield for over top of the valve cover and exhaust manifold. That will help more than wrapping, IMO.

[86azms3]

Originally Posted by chimmike NEVER wrap your IC piping. EVER. Build heat shields, etc, but NEVER wrap your IC piping. Any of it. I will never figure out how the fuck people come up with this idea, you're trapping heat IN just like when you wrap exhaust pipes. BEGi - - Corky's Comments - Corkys_Comment_Intercooling And I still think doing some proper ducting and taping off areas to guide airflow will be more effective too.

Taping is a good thing. On cold side helps to keep out. You could do hot side...help keep underwood temps down. I could care less if the charge air doesnt cool before reaching the IC. I have a big core. The pipes are not meant for heat exchange...a little happens. But the core is where the majority of transfer occurs.

It really depends though...if your hot pipe is in front of your intake...like mine...actually touching the filter element, then insulating the hot pipe is a good thing because your heating the intake air. Otherwise i wouldn't worry about it.

But we have mostl been talking about cruise bats. For cruising everything insulated is best

[SofaKingAwesome]

High BAT fix.
Part # in post #1

[StayBroke]

so your telling me if my hotside pipe is idk 150 and where the pipe is located, the temp around the pipe is 200......why wouldnt you wrap it to keep the cooler air(even tho it is 150) in the pipe???

[86azms3]

Originally Posted by themytb You (and Corky) are wrong........ sometimes lol. The whole premise depends on the surrounding air being cooler than the air flowing inside the tube. If the air outside the tube is hotter you are wrong, if the air is the same temp it is a wash. Those of us running fmic piping over the engine have a tube surrounded by air that is just as hot at least IMO. My piping is wrapped partially because I hate fucking chrome looking shit in my engine bay and partially due to rubbing in spots( last year one of my pipes ate a whole into an A/C line). Someday I plan on going custom fmic with a same side(vertical flow) core at that time I will powdercoat my tubes.

Agreed corkey is Speaking way too generic. I would rather have the core cool more and reject the heat underneath the engine bay instead of transferring to the top of the engine bay where it can be sucked in by the intake.

Originally Posted by StayBroke so your telling me if my hotside pipe is idk 150 post ic and where the pipe is located, the temp around the pipe is 200......why wouldnt you wrap it to keep the cooler air(even tho it is 150) in the pipe???

Hot side and post IC are contradicting. Clarify.