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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score If I'm retarded and a solution exists that doesn't require me to solder wires groan me to death or something. Now.. Seriously, I feel like I'm beating a dead horse but this is rediculous. My AP is taking a fucking beating from unplugging and plugging it back in every single time. I love this thing but I need it to turn off. Seriously, how hard is it to make an option for that? Here are my solutions: 1. The AP KNOWS when the car is turned off. Why is there no option on screen that asks if I want the AP to turn off? 2. Include an on/off button on the OBDII port you guys provide. Seriously, make it once, charge more for it, whatever. 3. Tell US what we can do that relatively easy for this to happen. Seriously, you guys make the best tuning software for 10+ cars. How has such a design flaw which is seemingly not too hard to fix been overlooked for so long? My AP's port is loose and coming apart and I don't believe that is covered by warranty. I paid $600 for a device which can literally re-program the brain of my car but can't turn itself off? PLEASE find a solution for this. I have searched up and down and short of paying $100 to get this custom fabbed there is no solution. My AP will not make it much longer at this rate. /rant still love you guys.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 -CP-e CATTED DP-PTP HPFP-COBB SRI-COBB TIP-COBB XLE-COBB AP FREEKTUNE-DENSO ITV24-JBR CHROME MOLLY-JBR PMM-JBR TMM-JBR OCC-JBR RSB-RALLY ARMOR-DASHHAWK-E4P STS-DEFI GAUGES-RL COILOVERS- |
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On/Off is super easy and free. Unplug the AP you lazy fuck.
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to SofaKingAwesome For This Un-useful Post: | curlyface (06-22-2012) |
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Yeah, an extremely expensive and complex device falling apart on me because it can't turn itself off makes me a lazy fuck. Thanks for the advice, retard.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 -CP-e CATTED DP-PTP HPFP-COBB SRI-COBB TIP-COBB XLE-COBB AP FREEKTUNE-DENSO ITV24-JBR CHROME MOLLY-JBR PMM-JBR TMM-JBR OCC-JBR RSB-RALLY ARMOR-DASHHAWK-E4P STS-DEFI GAUGES-RL COILOVERS- |
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Not this fucking guy again.
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I love the idiots on this forum. I am formally requesting something for which there have been numerous threads on on this forum alone and you idiots are pretending like I'm some dumbass asking for COBB to make my car fly. Fuck off. If this thread doesn't help your cause then so be it, you're welcome to unplug your shit even when a solution is ready, although we all know you'll thank god it was finally implemented. But there are a shit load of people on this forum who have already complained, have come up with soldering solutions, or are working on one.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 -CP-e CATTED DP-PTP HPFP-COBB SRI-COBB TIP-COBB XLE-COBB AP FREEKTUNE-DENSO ITV24-JBR CHROME MOLLY-JBR PMM-JBR TMM-JBR OCC-JBR RSB-RALLY ARMOR-DASHHAWK-E4P STS-DEFI GAUGES-RL COILOVERS- |
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Here you go Dildo Faggins, you should be able to adapt this to do what you want. Faggot. HOW-TO: Dashhawk Y-Splitter with AccessPORT Only took me 5 seconds of searching.
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I'll bite because i got a date tonight with a hottie tonight so I feel extra nice. Go get a cheap, long USB cable, cut back some of the sheath near the mini-usb end (about 2 or so feet) and find the black wire. You only need to do this to the black wire, but that's why we're getting a cheap USB cable to test with. Cut that black wire Buy a cheap toggle switch from walmart or any store with car electrical isle. Connect both ends of those wires to each end of the toggle. Switch on to allow ground and connect the device, switch off to disconnect ground and power-no-more. If you want an auto switch, use a relay instead. use ignition as 12v source or the cig lighter. That way you dont need a dumb looking toggle switch, you just tee-in the relay and it looks a little nicer. obviously use electrical tape and wrap everything up so it doesn't look as horrible. Hope that helps. Good luck! (yes i used to do lots of ghetto things with switches and relays back years ago so I like doing fire hazards in my car) |
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Formal requests for enhancements go here
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Dude, its the interwebz. You get butthurt more than a hooker in an anal sex competition. I think what you have brought up has been communicated back to COBB on number occasions. If you are having issues with your AP because of uplugging it constantly, shoot their customer service an email. They are really good and will take care of you I'm sure. Edit* Others beat me to it lol.
__________________ 2010 MS3 VRM - Corn Fed PU CS CBE, CS RP, CS DP, JBR 80/88 Duro Fully Mounted, TS BPV, CPE HPFP, CS SRI/TIP, CPE-FMIC, AP, NGK Iridiums, GS EBCS in 3 Port Int, JMF IM, Hypnotic Tuned, TWM Full Replacement, E4 Weighted Knob, Eibach Prokit, 18x8.5 Konig Milligrams Matte Black with Machined Undercut, 245/40 18 Fuzion ZRiBest Run: 13.1 @ 109 1.9 60ft Atco Slow build in progress ![]() ![]() |
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You need to be gentle. your girlfriend may like the port abuse, but she can heal from that. Cheap plastic does not heal. | |
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__________________ 2010 MS3 VRM - Corn Fed PU CS CBE, CS RP, CS DP, JBR 80/88 Duro Fully Mounted, TS BPV, CPE HPFP, CS SRI/TIP, CPE-FMIC, AP, NGK Iridiums, GS EBCS in 3 Port Int, JMF IM, Hypnotic Tuned, TWM Full Replacement, E4 Weighted Knob, Eibach Prokit, 18x8.5 Konig Milligrams Matte Black with Machined Undercut, 245/40 18 Fuzion ZRiBest Run: 13.1 @ 109 1.9 60ft Atco Slow build in progress ![]() ![]() | |
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I think that ends your retarded argument there. Thanks for coming out champ. P057, thank you for a response that doesn't suck. I will try your method out. I was hoping others here who have AP's would support the cause because this was a formal request vs others trying to come up with solutions themselves. Even if you don't care why wouldn't you support enhanced features on a device you own?
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I was going to say just twist the wires together. you shouldn't really have anything tugging at them, but soldering just makes sure it's a good connection that'll hold better. This doesn't require a ton of electrical knowledge or work. find out how a SPST relay works, what to put on each prong, crimp a spade connector and attach to relay. tuck relay behind dash or under chair or whatever. Make sure to wrap the exposed metal in electrical tape too. should be good little couple-hour project for a weekend. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score p057 Does wiring in a switch to the black wire in a usb cable, as you suggested, interfere with flashing maps? Given you leave it in the on position, obviously. Could one use a simple rocker switch from radioshack?
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I'd like to see this happen because I've totally drained my battery a couple times. Yeah, "just unplug it, lazy" blah blah blah. 99% of the time I do, but that 1% blows. Just plugged in for 14 hours overnight drains the batter to the point you can't even unlock the doors. I'm not going to hold my breath on Cobb actually doing anything about this though. Seem like it's been a problem forever. I can't fathom how a tiny AP can drain the battery so quickly though.
__________________ 2011 Liquid Silver w/Tech: CP-e CAI, Ultimate Racing Downpipe + Test Pipe, CP-e TMIC, HTP Inlet Pipe, Cobb Accessport, Autotech Internals, JBR Shifter Bushings/EGR Block Off/Rear Sway, H&R Springs, SPC Rear Camber 2000 Miata LS, I haz da gaiz 2004 Honda VFR800, got mad VTEC yo |
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this is my ghettorific rendition of what you need to do for a physical switch. Note this is the easiest way, albeit manual and probably more annoying: Relayed "auto version" located here in post 31 below: On/Off get one of these cables: Get a simple rocker/toggle switch: EITHER: A. Cut the complete wire in half and strip the insulation back on both ends so you see the red/black/white/green cables. Black and red are ground and power, respectively. White and green are data. Hook back up to all the other colors with the exception of RED (pwr) and connect one end to the toggle switch and the other end of the cable to the other toggle switch. B. Strip away insulation in the middle or wherever you'd like the toggle to be and then just cut the red cable and join in the toggle switch. crappy ass ghetto diagram here: ![]() Before soldering or crimping with anything, test that all is well by simply twisting the wire ends together. if all is good, then make the joints "permanent" with solder and/or butt-end connectors. done. here's a better pic of the color scheme. ![]()
It should NOT affect map flashing at all. if the unit is not recieving enough power, I'm sure it would have a hard time turning on to begin with. You arent interrupting data flow, which WOULD screw up maps, but then it wouldnt even talk to the ECU. Basically you cannot fuck this up unless you're really ghetto-rigging it and halfassing twisting the wires together, using crappy cable, or are flipping the toggle on and off while in the middle of flashing map.
__________________ '07 MS6 GT3071R Last edited by p057; 08-01-2012 at 07:58 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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The effort is appreciated, but the obdII doesn't power and connect the AP through the usb port unless you are using it in pass through mode with your lap top.
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Unless I lost a few brain cells recently, the USB cable is what connects the dongle on the OBD2 port to my AP? I think i have the cable going the wrong direction, but it doesnt matter, same principle.. Oh, lol. I see whats going on here. OK, this only works for OLD versions of the AP. the one that uses the AP + usb cable + OBD2 dongle. "new" APs use just a special OBD2 cable that connects right up to the AP and the OBD2 port So if you have this: ![]() good if you have this: ![]() you're on your own.
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Exactly. Sorry for the confusion. I assumed you had the second version. The other dongle is still available but is $89.00 on the Cobb site. curlyface, do you unplug the AP @ the OBDII port or @ the AP itself. I always unplug @ the AP itself and don't notice any excess wear from doing it that way.
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I know that my dongle's OBD2-side port was getting flakey and crap, so what I did (because I also have a Dashhawk that I prefer running over the AP) is that I bought an OBD2 port splitter. I unclipped the car's OBD2 port from the frame, tucked it up inside the steering column/dash area and zip-tied it to some other cables loosely. The Y-split feeds to the AP dongle which is ziptied up HARD for a super-solid connection and a LONG A-B USB mini cable is fed through the center console and around to the inside of my elbow rest. That feeds to my AP. The other connection feeds around to the Dashhawk, which is fed through the right side of my dash and up on top of the console near my boost gauge. Now I never unplug anything, data communications aren't ever lost anymore through sharp turns or hard bumps while logging or just data viewing, and the only thing I have to do to switch is just lightly unplug my Dashhawk cable from the back to kill the power. Maybe one day i'll set up a four-way master switch for the two units to keep me from unplugging the back of the DH too. lol. | |
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Good deal. I wanna get on this soon. I actually wanna use the blank button below the ambient temp button for a factory look. Maybe even find a wee little cobb logo to put on it.
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oh and note for people who may not be aware: do not extend any USB cable beyond 5 meters (~16 feet)... Possible data/power issues and you really don't need this much cable.
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__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 -CP-e CATTED DP-PTP HPFP-COBB SRI-COBB TIP-COBB XLE-COBB AP FREEKTUNE-DENSO ITV24-JBR CHROME MOLLY-JBR PMM-JBR TMM-JBR OCC-JBR RSB-RALLY ARMOR-DASHHAWK-E4P STS-DEFI GAUGES-RL COILOVERS- | |
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I think I might attempt to wire something up on this. My only hesitation is that I would have to splice the harness going to the OBDII connector. My though was to splice the power going to the OBDII port to a relay that turns on and off with the car. Have a switch to bypass the relay and allow for constant power (even while off) for flashing maps. No one has ever attempted this?
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Don't be a gina.............just burn the fuck out of your LCD screen like all of us.
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I'm beginning to think something is wrong with mine or something. How long can you guys leave yours plugged in without killing the car?
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AP just sucks for monitoring, honestly. And it kills my red themed feng shui. I also forgot to add for the electrically inclined, you could add in auto turn-on//shut-off with a bosch 4-pin relay. I'll post that up later. I think that was something i was supposed to send curlyface a long time ago but I got distracted and forgot at some point. | |
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
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this is to use relay vs toggle switch. If you don't mind a little extra wiring and crap. This way it only turns on with the car, no switch required, and you can hide 90% of the cabling behind your dash. NOTE: You can use either 4-pin or 5-pin relays OK. Just obviously not use the 5th pin (87a), as we won't need it. Get whatever you can grab easily. ![]() relayed.png |
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