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 Old 06-06-2018, 07:04 AM   #1
 
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Default Troubleshooting Stuttering 04 MSM

Hey guys, my new-to-me ride (04 MSM GT) has developed an odd hesitation and stutter on occasion under somewhat hard acceleration. It doesnt happen all the time, actually it did it a couple times a week ago and just decided to come back, this time more frequent. Generally happens at speed when getting on it a little bit. After hesitating for a few seconds, it stops and the car speeds up smoothly. Vehicle has 110k on it. Lots of general service work was done by Philip Mazda right before I bought the car, however, they did not install the platinum spark plugs before I bought it, the plugs are sitting in the glove box. I will be troubleshooting it after work today but if anyone has any tips to check I would appreciate it.

My co workers suggested checking the spark plugs and the Recirculation valve/Bypass valve - Not sure what these are officially called, but its the Blow-off valve that recirculates back into the intake.
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 Old 06-06-2018, 10:02 AM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by ISPKI View Post
Hey guys, my new-to-me ride (04 MSM GT) has developed an odd hesitation and stutter on occasion under somewhat hard acceleration. It doesnt happen all the time, actually it did it a couple times a week ago and just decided to come back, this time more frequent. Generally happens at speed when getting on it a little bit. After hesitating for a few seconds, it stops and the car speeds up smoothly. Vehicle has 110k on it. Lots of general service work was done by Philip Mazda right before I bought the car, however, they did not install the platinum spark plugs before I bought it, the plugs are sitting in the glove box. I will be troubleshooting it after work today but if anyone has any tips to check I would appreciate it.

My co workers suggested checking the spark plugs and the Recirculation valve/Bypass valve - Not sure what these are officially called, but its the Blow-off valve that recirculates back into the intake.
I lost count how many recent posts are describing this exact same problem. Search the troubleshooting section and you will find what to look for and possibly a solution.

But yeah, replace the plugs since you have them and make damn sure you gap them correctly. They are NOT pre gapped.

What gap you ask? Well, its important and you can find that by searching too. Good luck!
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 Old 06-06-2018, 11:24 AM   #3
 
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Ah, "The Bog"...

Have fun with fixing that.

Also, check to make sure your temp sensor on the throttle body inlet isn't torn. They like to rip, causing a boost leak. This rubber piece from the factory expands anyway, and should be replaced with a metal piece, that will not expand or tear. BEGi made one back in the day that worked with the stock ECBS/Recirc-valve setup.
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'04 MSM: Ohlins DFV//15x9 TRM C3M//FM FMIC//AEM SRI//Custom 3" TBE//BossFrog Clearview//Bride Gias II//Autokonexion CF Trunk v2
'94 M Edition MX5: R-package Bilsteins//15x6.5 Konig Helium//Torsen LSD//Roadstersport Race NC exhaust//MSM RSB//OEM Hardtop
'06 MS6: COBB SRI/TIP//18x8 Enkei Imola//TooLateTuning Springs//SPC Balljoints//JBR RMM//Techna-Fit SS Clutch line
Bimmer Challenge & Global Time Attack Project
'99 BMW 328is: 18x9.5 +35 Advanti Optimo w/ 245/35 Hankook Z214 (C51)//E46 330i Front w/ Hawk DTC60 & E46 328i Rear w/ Hawk DTC50//KW Variant 3 w/ Vorshlag plates//Turner CTSCC Camber Arms//SLR Adjustable Lollipops//3 clutch 3.73 LSD//Sparco Ergo II w/ 6 point Schroth Clubman Harness//Bimmerworld Billet Floor Mount//ZSL Aluminum Radiator w/ Spal fan//3.5" MAF & Dinan CAI//#24 lb Injectors//Active Autowerke GenII Track Pipe & Catback //Garagistic Delrin Motor & Trans Mounts, Rear Subframe, & Differential Bushings//Visionary Performance Custom Welded 4 Point Rollbar w/ Harness Bar & Gusseted X Brace//OEM M3 Rear Subframe Reinforcement & Rear Trailing Arm Pocket Reinforcement//Z3 Steering Rack & SSK//UUC Stage 2 Flywheel & M5 Clutch//S52 Camshafts w/ 7100 redline//M50 Intake Manifold//S50 Oilpan w/ VAC Baffle & Oil Filter Housing//AKG M3 Adjustable FSB Endlinks w/ 95 M3 FSB//OBD1 M52B28 w/ 230+whp
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 Old 06-07-2018, 05:08 AM   #4
 
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I searched around the miata section but I probably wasnt using the right keywords.

I pulled the spark plugs yesterday, they looked OK, kind of crusty but also looked like they had been in there a while. Gaps were around .044-.048, NGK Iridium plugs.

The plugs that were in the glove box were not the right plugs, they were the platinum plugs for an N/A car, gaps measured .040-.042. Not having an immediate solution, I adjusted the gaps on the platinum plugs down to .035 (only combination I had in gauges). From what I read, the turbo engines are supposed to be around .032.

I have the correct set of NGK iridium plugs on order, should have them this weekend.
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 Old 06-07-2018, 05:34 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
Ah, "The Bog"...

Have fun with fixing that.

Also, check to make sure your temp sensor on the throttle body inlet isn't torn. They like to rip, causing a boost leak. This rubber piece from the factory expands anyway, and should be replaced with a metal piece, that will not expand or tear. BEGi made one back in the day that worked with the stock ECBS/Recirc-valve setup.
I will take a look at that. Followed the previous links, going to clean out that Solenoid and replace the fuel filter this weekend.

Out of curiosity, are these turbos normally quite loud when boosting? My MS3 makes next to zero noise when it boosts but the MSM is very noticeable. Wondering if I do have a boost leak or even an exhaust leak somewhere under the hood.
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 Old 06-07-2018, 08:22 AM   #6
 
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Post a quality landscape photo of your entire engine bay, and lets go from there.

It has been forever since I have heard a stock MSM, but I remember my GF's reaction to it when I drove it off the lot, "You have to buy this." She was bored to death in a AP2 moments before. So yeah, it's definitely noticeable stock. An aftermarket intake will increase that sound, as will an aftermarket recirc valve.

You can check the downpipe & exhaust fittings for any build up from a leak.

There are a few stupid little tricks to getting those MSM's to cross 200whp on the stock tune & turbo. My favorite was unplugging the TPS to keep the ECU in open loop 24/7 (the switch you feel at 5k), and porting the wastegate inlet to alleviate boost creep after cutting the cat out. You can add larger injectors, a manual boost controller to increase the boost a couple lbs, and add some resistors to remove the fuel cut when it goes over 12psi.

They have issues with the OE intake and catch can system, so look to correct that ASAP with a check valve on the feed line to the oil pan. What intercooler is on the car? Are the fittings and rubber hoses coated in oil?
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Past Mazdas & Speeds
'04 MSM: Ohlins DFV//15x9 TRM C3M//FM FMIC//AEM SRI//Custom 3" TBE//BossFrog Clearview//Bride Gias II//Autokonexion CF Trunk v2
'94 M Edition MX5: R-package Bilsteins//15x6.5 Konig Helium//Torsen LSD//Roadstersport Race NC exhaust//MSM RSB//OEM Hardtop
'06 MS6: COBB SRI/TIP//18x8 Enkei Imola//TooLateTuning Springs//SPC Balljoints//JBR RMM//Techna-Fit SS Clutch line
Bimmer Challenge & Global Time Attack Project
'99 BMW 328is: 18x9.5 +35 Advanti Optimo w/ 245/35 Hankook Z214 (C51)//E46 330i Front w/ Hawk DTC60 & E46 328i Rear w/ Hawk DTC50//KW Variant 3 w/ Vorshlag plates//Turner CTSCC Camber Arms//SLR Adjustable Lollipops//3 clutch 3.73 LSD//Sparco Ergo II w/ 6 point Schroth Clubman Harness//Bimmerworld Billet Floor Mount//ZSL Aluminum Radiator w/ Spal fan//3.5" MAF & Dinan CAI//#24 lb Injectors//Active Autowerke GenII Track Pipe & Catback //Garagistic Delrin Motor & Trans Mounts, Rear Subframe, & Differential Bushings//Visionary Performance Custom Welded 4 Point Rollbar w/ Harness Bar & Gusseted X Brace//OEM M3 Rear Subframe Reinforcement & Rear Trailing Arm Pocket Reinforcement//Z3 Steering Rack & SSK//UUC Stage 2 Flywheel & M5 Clutch//S52 Camshafts w/ 7100 redline//M50 Intake Manifold//S50 Oilpan w/ VAC Baffle & Oil Filter Housing//AKG M3 Adjustable FSB Endlinks w/ 95 M3 FSB//OBD1 M52B28 w/ 230+whp
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 Old 06-07-2018, 12:19 PM   #7
 
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Wow man, thats a ton of great info, going to have to donate after work now

Yeah my GF went from driving a 2007 mazda 6 sedan that got totaled. She was pissed that she lost her car right up until I found this thing at a dealer. It is spotless, cant find any leaks on any connections but I havent gotten too far under it to check exhaust.

I'll get some pictures uploaded later this evening.
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 Old Yesterday, 10:38 AM   #8
 
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Havent had the time to check the fuel filter and that solenoid valve. I checked a few other things, air filter is brand spankin new, installed the new properly gapped laser cut iridium plugs.

Previously, the engine felt like it was studdering around 35-40 and 70-75, CEL was on for codes P0037 and P0300, no signal from O2 sensor heater wire and random missfire detected. The motor also felt kind of chattery (I chalked this up to it being such a light car, lacking insulation).

After installing the iridium plugs (gapped to .030 +/-.001), the CEL stayed off for a while, engine felt more smooth, the studdering went away, engine definitely has more pep right around when the turbos hits. I noticed that the spark plugs in cylinder 1 and 2 came out with almost no force required, while the rear two were somewhat tighter. I am going to check the new plugs at the end of this week and see if they loosened up at all.

The CEL came back on, got my scan tool in the mail and it read code P0037, heater wire from O2 sensor no signal. Here is a shot of the engine bay.
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