register gallery
 

Go Back   Mazdaspeed Forums >
MAZDASPEED SECTION
>
CX7FORUMS.ORG - 2007+ Mazda CX-7 Forums
> CX-7 > Issues & Troubleshooting


Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums .

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

*When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads.

*Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum

*Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements.

*Registered members also get access to the live chat box!
Reply
 
Bookmark and Share LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 Old 02-04-2017, 04:01 AM   #1
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default 2008 cx7 issue

hello, I have a 2008 cx7 2.3 AWD turbo. The issue started at a small misfire, then a day later it turned into a bad miss. I noticed the timing chain was stretched and the vvt actuator pin was damaged. I changed all timing components, retimed the engine and checked for compression. Compression and leakdown were fine. ...Valves seem to be holding.

New Coils and ir plugs, all OEM...

back together and the misfire started small again, progressing worse to only being able to idle with no throttle response.

Double checked timing, spot on...

Live data was ...

287 to 300 fuel psi at 450 rpm

o2 reading normal

maf at 5 g

engine temp sensor was at -40 deg BUT second reading from sending unit was at 180 when warm.. closed loop


other data was recorded but this seemed to be the most important at the time..

so..

At first the CEL came on and was throwing p2088 so I checked the vvt solenoid.. it jumps fine but engine still runs rich or advanced.

The solenoid has 12 v power immediately with just the key on. No ground faults or shorts and no cross to power. we checked the wiring and it all seems to be ok with no shorts from PCM to Ground to Sensor/pigtail

We then tried the "relearn" process and it seemed to do nothing.

What am I missing here.. the engine seems to be running rich and fouling every plug out. What do you think I should do next I am at my whits end.. Please throw suggestions..

Key points, there is spark, there is fuel, not sure what psi should be at 450 rpm...

Fuel Regulator? could the VVT solenoid be not holding? Should the VVT solenoid have power immediately even when not running just key on? event timing is spot on right now so that is not it.Chain has no slop. Crank Sensor is lined up at 20th tooth TDC...

Please Help..

Could it be ECM.. please help

Could it be the coolant temp switch.. please help

Could it be a mazda... please help

Could it be that I am loosing my mind with this.. please help..

...

Please help!
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-04-2017, 03:37 PM   #2
 
flapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 121   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
flapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 32
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Is it still throwing the P2088 code? Is it still misfiring?
flapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-04-2017, 03:39 PM   #3
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

As of now no for the code but idle misfire and still running rich
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-04-2017, 04:02 PM   #4
 
flapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 121   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
flapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 32
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

If the O2 sensor readings look normal, I would expect that the engine wouldn't be running rich. Maybe one or more of the injectors are clogged or bad? If that isn't the problem maybe try adjusting the crank sensor down a bit to retard it and see how it runs.
flapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-04-2017, 04:04 PM   #5
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Good point, ill check adjust the ckps. All the plugs are still fouling though, dry carbon fouling..maybe not rich just bad ignition timing?
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-04-2017, 04:23 PM   #6
 
flapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 121   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
flapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 32
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Cool, let me know what happens. Another thing I just thought of is the plug gaps. No plug I've bought has come properly gapped out of the box. I'd pull the plugs out and use a feeler guage and make sure they're gapped correctly. OEM plug gap should be 0.034" I believe.
flapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to flapjack For This Useful Post:
torquemaniac (02-04-2017)
 Old 02-04-2017, 04:24 PM   #7
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Awesome work thank you, i will double check.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-04-2017, 04:46 PM   #8
 
torquemaniac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 730   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
torquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the world
Thanks: 927
Thanked 754 Times in 269 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Most here will suggest to gap the plug at 0.028!

Can you post a datalog of the car running?

First thing I would check is the MAF sensor, and then look for electrical connection problem (maybe a bad ground due to a rusted wire)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf CX-7 workshop manual.pdf (57.34 MB, 46 views)
__________________
2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
torquemaniac is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-06-2017, 07:32 PM   #9
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

The maf seems ok, scan shows 5g ps, plugs are good-gapped. There is almost no vacuum and throttle does not respond 99 percent of the time. Plug 1 was covered in gas, plug 2 3 4 carbon fouled bad. All cylinders have spark and fuel.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-06-2017, 08:11 PM   #10
 
flapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 121   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
flapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 32
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

When you say plug 1 are you referring to the plug farthest from the transmission? Just making sure we're on the same page.

Also the no vacuum part immediately makes me think its a faulty MAP sensor. This would explain why its running so rich and not idling properly.
flapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-07-2017, 09:44 AM   #11
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

yep number 1 cylinder. Just curious, how can the map sensor cause a physical condition of no vac? couldthe low vac be caused by such a low idle? I can't wrap my head around any of these shenanigans.

Quick question, should the vvt solenoid be powered at idle? we checked the power with key on to the vvt pigtail and it had 12.8 volts. However when plugged into the vvt solenoid it does nothing. When the vvt solenoid is jumped with 12v it jumps forward. Both the old and new VVT solenoid do the same thing.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-07-2017, 10:01 AM   #12
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

What should the MAP read on the scanner? Also, no more codes are being thrown even when we mess with sensors while it is running. CEL stays off. Could the PCM really be worth replacing? Could it be tested? I am down for all the suggestions I just want to make sure I can understand the logic before spending more money.

I also appreciate all your input, thank you.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-07-2017, 05:47 PM   #13
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

So this is where we are at MAP and MAF are good, confirmed good, all grounds are good. All injectors are good. The main issue is there is almost no vacuum. This seems to be causing the issue. Confirmed no leaks in manifold or anywhere that holds vac.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-08-2017, 06:48 AM   #14
 
torquemaniac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 730   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
torquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the worldtorquemaniac is the leader of the world
Thanks: 927
Thanked 754 Times in 269 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

In the first post you said that the car is running rich, but then you say there is almost no vacuum at idle...with no vacuum at idle the car should be running lean (throtle open too much), unless the ECU is pulling a lot of timing to get the idle RPM on target

Did you monitor ignition timing ? (idle timing should be around 10 degree)

Maybe there is a problem with the throttle or its wiring!?

Did you log fuel trims (LTFT and STFT)?

The ECT reading are in degree C or F?

Is the car stuck in 3rd gear? (this would indicate the car is in fail-safe mode)
__________________
2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
torquemaniac is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-10-2017, 10:34 PM   #15
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

well well well.. stripped the manifold off and fuel rail.. found a broken injector on number 1. The tip was crooked and fuel was leaking past the crack. No impact marks or anything looks like it failed under pressure.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PART_1486794814833_0211170109a.jpg (902.9 KB, 12 views)
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-11-2017, 08:42 AM   #16
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

It was dumping fuel into the cylinder. No hyrolock though. The issue before was a timing error apparently. So after re-timing it it ran alot better just sputtered from the injector. Should be back and running soon.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-11-2017, 02:33 PM   #17
 
flapjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 121   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
flapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to beholdflapjack is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 32
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Interesting and good to know. Thanks for posting what you found because information like this helps everyone. Hopefully you get back on the road with no other problems very soon.
flapjack is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-11-2017, 06:08 PM   #18
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

No problem, seems that the high pressure these produce can cause some major wear and tear. I am just glad that nozzle did not eject into the head!!!
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-15-2017, 08:53 PM   #19
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

so the car is running great now! I have only one problem left, that is the brake light fuse keeps blowing, when it does (as soon as i hit the brakes) the ABS and ETC light comes on. The fuse blows when replaced as soon as the brakes are applied. After hooking it up on my scanner I got these codes...c1954 Chassis B1884 Body and U2064 Network. I tried unhooking all the tail lights and nothing changed. I inspected wiring to the ECU and it all seems to be fine. This only happened when I did the above repairs...what are your thoughts????
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-16-2017, 05:58 AM   #20
 
Dropen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Santiago, Chile
Posts: 42   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
Dropen will become famous soon enough
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by ruggeri5054 View Post
so the car is running great now! I have only one problem left, that is the brake light fuse keeps blowing, when it does (as soon as i hit the brakes) the ABS and ETC light comes on. The fuse blows when replaced as soon as the brakes are applied. After hooking it up on my scanner I got these codes...c1954 Chassis B1884 Body and U2064 Network. I tried unhooking all the tail lights and nothing changed. I inspected wiring to the ECU and it all seems to be fine. This only happened when I did the above repairs...what are your thoughts????
Did you try removing all the brake bulbs? and disconecting the 3rd brake light and try?
The 3rd brake light works complete (all the led or bulbs)?

Try that and see if still burning the fuse.

Other thing... see if the fuse is "exploded" or just the filament is cutted. If its the 1st one its a shortcircuit and you have one wire to ground, if theres the 2nd option means that you overpass the amps of the fuse and you have some bulb or something consuming more than usual.
Dropen is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-16-2017, 06:19 AM   #21
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Yeah the fuse def. More than a small cut. I am going with a short, but i do not know where to begin or where on the harness to start at. The,rear lights were all disconnected bulbs and all, no difference. I can test the switch but i can only imagine that the switch will cause a non working issue, not draw more amps. The diagram i have is very plain, it does not show detail of where the actual wires travel to.
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-21-2017, 08:23 AM   #22
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

well fixed the brake light issue.. not quite sure what I did but I pulled the power plug to the fuse block and there was some oily substance on it. I cleaned all of it up and the brake lights were fine. NOW the car has no fuel supply what so ever. No start, has spark, has compression but no fuel. I have checked all fuses, replaced relays and still no fuel being delivered. This happened exactly after the brake lights started working.. What possibilities could this be related to??
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 02-22-2017, 04:05 PM   #23
 
ruggeri5054's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 15   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ruggeri5054 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

update, the fuel pump is not being activated by the PCM. The PCM is only allowing 5.2 volts to the relay which is not enough to activate it.. Things I have tested so far...

The resistor is within spec, .3 ohms or less
The pump will activate and the car will run if the relay is shorted between power and pump (top two) The voltage between the fuel control relay and the speed control relay is 12v..

the only problem is terminal 1h (fuel control) is only outputting 5 volts which according to the workshop manual it is supposed to be b+ or 12.

I have no problem replacing the PCM but I want to make sure that the PCM is actually doing its job and something else is telling the PCM to kill the pump for some reason..

I also noticed that the ENGBAR1 fuse has both neg and pos continuity, is this normal? I checked most of the entire harness and found no opens/shorts. This is really pointing toward a PCM but I want to rule out other possibilities before flashing a new PCM. Someone please put some input in lol


Ultimately the problem is isolated between terminal 1h on the PCM being low voltage, not enough to activate the relay (I did change relays and nothing changed)
ruggeri5054 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2008 Black Mica with Slight Steering Issue Rogejo321 Mazdaspeed3/6 General Discussion 9 04-12-2015 06:33 PM
2008 Mazdaspeed 3 Airbag issue Nitr0EngiE MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics 9 03-04-2014 10:22 PM
Report: NHTSA probing 2005-2008 Ford Crown Victoria police cars over steering issue Haltech Automotive News 0 09-17-2012 11:20 AM
Small recall for big suspension issue on 2008 Honda Element Haltech Automotive News 0 08-19-2008 11:50 AM
2008.5 Bose issue NYpest MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Car Audio & Electronics 22 08-04-2008 10:19 PM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:11 PM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors
Template-Modifications by TMS
©Copyright 2008 ; 2019 Cymru Internet Services LLC | FYHN™ Autosports HQ
Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
Page generated in 0.39548 seconds with 24 queries