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 Old 12-27-2011, 06:39 AM   #1
 
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Default Car sputtering (CEL) P2119

I changed the oil Saturday, washed it and parked it all weekend.

Went out to warm it up this morning and it was sputtering bad with a CEL. After the idel kicked down it stopped sputtering but won't hit 3500 rpm starts sputtering out.

Going to head up to autozone when they open to get a report. But thought I would throw it out there any ideas?

Update:
I had to wait for Autozone to open, went to start the car and it was running normal (still had the CEL). Got up to the store with no problems they hooked up the data logger and I have cod P2119. I am going to start with the cleaning the EGR and throttle body (since I will have it all opened).

I'll post back with results.

Last edited by tchase; 12-27-2011 at 07:58 AM.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 10:46 AM   #2
 
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P2119 pointe to the throttle body
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 Old 12-27-2011, 11:15 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by edwhayes View Post
P2119 pointe to the throttle body
I agree, but the guy at AutoZone said it's more of a get you close code. What would there be to "fix" on the throttle body?

I've got it all open now and I'm cleaning the valve and tube (both have a lot of carbon) Is there anything else I should do while I have it all open? As I said before after letting it sit for a half hour or so when I was waiting for the store to open. It then started up fine with no problems other than the CEL was still lit. I have no idea if it has anything to do with it, but the CEL came on a few months ago, I thought maybe I didn't tighten the gas cap so I just reset the ECU and the CEL went of I'm now wondering if it was a sign.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 11:22 AM   #4
 
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OP: A little hint: If you donate a little bit to help keep this site going, you'll get access to parts of this board you cannot presently see.

Included in that additional access is specific diagnostic information regarding each and every Mazdaspeed specific DTC code, how to trouble shoot the code, the specific tests to perform and the steps and sequence to work through to resolve the issue and keep the code from coming back.

I'm talking about the entire official detailed Mazda service manual for your car. All 2900+ pages of it.

I think you should be checking for throttle actuator malfunction, throttle valve malfunction and/or a PCM malfunction.

Cleaning the throttle body would be a good start. Perhaps the throttle position sensor has gone out? Did you get the throttle body wet when you washed the car?
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 Old 12-27-2011, 11:26 AM   #5
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P0401 is the clogged EGR error. You do not have that. It will not cause those symptoms, either.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 11:32 AM   #6
 
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Just the info so far is well worth a small donation. I 'll get crackin on it right now. Raider several other threads with the symtoms I have point the EGR.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 11:36 AM   #7
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Just 3 of the threads that came up with this:
Let me google that for you

Trouble Code P2119 - StreetUnitForum.com
Code P2119 Throttle actuator
CEL P2119 X2 w/ CPE Intake

Seriously, I made the EGR cleaning thread. It's not it.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 11:56 AM   #8
 
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Thank you Raider, I didn't search beyond this site once i had the code... the link you gave with the CPE is the exact symptoms. They didn't go further on the trouble shooting! I'll keep looking, I guess the bright side is the EGR was pretty dirty. Now I need to start reading up and underingstanding. I got the VIP so hoping i can find the right tread thanks again.


" P2119 is a throttle actuator control throttle body range/performance DTC.
The PCM (ECU) is comparing the throttle position to the default throttle position when the ignition is off (doing a diagnostic check). Seeing as how throttle control is electronic, this diagnostic will fail if the TP is higher than default at startup and will throw a code.

It's either the throttle actuator or the TP sensor that's acting up. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, I can post some info on how to diagnose the problem."
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 Old 12-27-2011, 12:03 PM   #9
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I am going to assume your warranty is long gone, right?
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 Old 12-27-2011, 12:18 PM   #10
 
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66k, and 3 mods so I figured the dealer wasn't an option. I not finding much on problem shooting the sensor or bad actuator
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 Old 12-27-2011, 12:20 PM   #11
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The FSM is in VIP
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...anual-pdf-433/
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 Old 12-27-2011, 12:24 PM   #12
 
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Is this the throttle position sensor circled in red?
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 Old 12-27-2011, 12:54 PM   #13
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Think so, not sure 100%. Trying to find it.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 01:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
page 282 and 911 of the FSM should get you going.
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 Old 12-27-2011, 01:24 PM   #15
 
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If you washed the car then set it up in the cold for a couple days, it could be something as simple as the throttle plate iced up.

Are the TB coolant lines still in place?


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 Old 12-27-2011, 01:36 PM   #16
 
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The TB coolant lines looked good before I took them off and the car is garaged. So I don't think it would of been frozen up. There is a fair amount of carbon on the inside. I just did the res test on the TB should be 0.3-100 im getting 2.8
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 Old 12-27-2011, 01:52 PM   #17
 
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Well at this point I think I'm going to just clean the TB and the EGR put it all back together clear the CEL and hope for the best. The TB is an expensive replacement part I'd like to know for sure before I replace it and at this point I'm not sure.

Thank you for the help eveyone!
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 Old 12-27-2011, 04:16 PM   #18
 
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All put back together, just got back from test drive. All seems well, thanks again for everyone's help if anythying I learned a little more about my engine today.
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 Old 01-17-2012, 12:55 PM   #19
 
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19 days later and 1100 miles no CEL no sputtering, thanks again everyone!
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 Old 01-07-2014, 07:48 AM   #20
 
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Did it again this morning. The car is normally garaged but I have studs on so I've been parking it outside. The car had been sitting outside for 3 days and the temps have been dropping into the 20s F. I got it into the garage (barely) sat for an hour, now starting and running fine. So I cleared the cel I'm taking the advice (Silvapain)this time that the plate might of iced over. I'll report back, one thing is constant it's cold out...
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 Old 01-07-2014, 08:13 AM   #21
 
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wonder if you need to change your coolant? Old coolant will freeze in certain temps, especially with below 0 temps like what i'm currently experiencing. A friend of mine on another forum was pouring the 50/50 mix into his car & some spilled on the car and froze almost instantly (-15 outside)

Depending on where you're at, you might want to go 70/30 & see if that helps your situation. If you haven't changed it since you had the car, it might be a good idea to do so anyways. I just flushed mine in August. Mine is an 08 with around 60,000 at the time & it wasn't bad, but you could tell it wasn't as green as the new stuff i put in.
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 Old 01-07-2014, 04:37 PM   #22
 
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Not a bad suggestion mine is an 07 and I've never flushed it. I'm south east of Seattle we rarely drop to the teens. It's been a year and over 25k miles since this happened but I am planning on going up to the mountains late Jan or Feb so in addition to the coolant change maybe replacing the OEM battery as well it's been turning slow in the low temps!

Thanks for the advise, I took the car for a 10 mile drive drove fine.
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