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 Old 07-08-2014, 11:00 PM   #1
 
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Default CX-7 turbo smoke diagnosis

Friend has a 2009 CX-7 (91,000 miles) that occasionally puts out white smoke from the tailpipes. It's not as bad as some of the videos I've seen. I think it's also had oil maintenance issues in the past. Currently it's burring a quart of oil about every 1000-1500 miles, so I'm mainly concerned about the engine running too low on oil. I'm familiar with the TSB and performed the idle test, but sometimes it produces smoke and other times it doesn't. When I was looking at it today, I saw smoke under the hood, and I was able to see it coming out of the turbo behind the intake pipe (near the center, maybe around an oil line?).

So is this definite turbo replacement time, or is it possible to clean up the venting and the oil lines? I guess I didn't think to take the oil cap off before to see if that makes the smoke stop. I have also yet to take it completely apart to check for impeller score marks. The VIN is about 5200 past the cutoff point for the ventilation kit FYI.

Has anyone on this forum done the turbo replacement themselves? Any into on replacement turbos? Is the Dorman brand one acceptable quality or should I go with a Mazda part?
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 Old 07-08-2014, 11:08 PM   #2
 
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you should read and search.

bnr s1 is a better bolt in imo. thicker shaft, ect.
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 Old 07-08-2014, 11:19 PM   #3
 
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I did read and search. I didn't find an abundance of helpful info, just tons of questions.

What is 'bnr s1'? Are you referring to the banjo bolt?
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 Old 07-08-2014, 11:28 PM   #4
 
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bnrsupercars.com
you can buy the turbos from some of the vendors on this site.
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 Old 07-08-2014, 11:39 PM   #5
 
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If it's an AWD is it true you have to remove the transfer case to get it out?
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 Old 07-08-2014, 11:43 PM   #6
 
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never looked at the cx7, on the 3 people can put them in from the intake side or pulling the exh manifold. I couldn't imagine having to pull the trans case to swap a turbo.

there is shop manuals in the vip section.
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 Old 07-09-2014, 01:34 AM   #7
 
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Any of the MS3 or MS6 or their aftermarket turbos will spool slower than a genuine CX7 turbo. The differences in the OEM turbos are in a recent thread and linked on the CX7 FAQ thread. Not to say you shouldn't do it, I am about to do it and find out how it goes.
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 Old 07-09-2014, 07:17 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
If it's an AWD is it true you have to remove the transfer case to get it out?
You have to take the car off the engine to get to the turbo...lol

Easiest way on the CX-7 to remove the turbo is to remove the exhaust manifold (and the TMIC and intake)
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 Old 07-09-2014, 07:23 AM   #9
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OP, turbo comes out up top. Get a new one, slap it in. Or get any tech to do it, that is not too tough. Then look to get an oil catch can. Our CX-7 had turbo swap at 48K miles, OCC went in after. Can overflowed in a year. Got used, drain was clogged.

damondmotorsports.com, jamesbaroneracing.com and corksport.com all sell them. All are vendors here.
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 Old 07-09-2014, 08:04 PM   #10
 
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Thanks for the replies. The service manual talks about removing the cat/exhaust, cowl grille, wiper motor, cowl panel, and alternator. Are the exhaust bolts best accessed from above or below? The major concern I have with doing this myself is rusted exhaust bolts that are frozen, strip, or shear since this car is in the rust belt. I don't have the special tools to deal with them (just basic hand tools).

I've also see people selling banjo bolts with smaller holes to deal with the smoke. I'm not sure if I like the idea of reducing the oil flow to the turbo. What's the consensus on these?

So I see a few options for replacement turbos (listed in order of increasing price):

EMUSA:
Amazon.com: 2007-2010 Mazda CX-7 CX7 2.3L K0422-582 Turbocharger: AutomotiveAmazon.com: 2007-2010 Mazda CX-7 CX7 2.3L K0422-582 Turbocharger: Automotive

Dorman: More Information for DORMAN 917151

BNR: BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazdaspeed3/Mazdaspeed6/CX7

Stock: TURBOCHARGER. TURBO CHARGER; TURBO CHARGER (2300CC). 2009 Mazda CX-7 # L3YC1370Z

So which one should I get, considering that we just need it to not smoke for a few years until the car is sold? I don't really care if it it spools up slower or produces less boost than stock, it just has to work (female driver).
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 Old 07-09-2014, 10:20 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post

So I see a few options for replacement turbos (listed in order of increasing price):
I have just gone through a similar list except that I don't have a blown turbo so I was looking to upgrade.

First I would add to your list a low mileage used CX7 K04 582 turbo. I will shortly have two of these but I am the wrong side of the world to help out. The one on my car has about 70k miles and I recently picked up a low mileage blown motor with good turbo and about 40k miles.

As CX7's are no longer produced and a bit expensive to repair I am seeing a lot of them being written off which means cheap parts.

Secondly you could do what I did and buy a low mileage used K04 882 off a Gen 2 MS3. There are a lot of people upgrading to bigger turbos and I got mine for $300 including postage. These will spool a bit slower but give an extra 25hp or so in the top end of the rev range.

Thirdly I have been advised off buying from eBay/Amazon etc. You usually get no warranty and the items might be cheap knock offs and not genuine OEM quality. I have seen what look like genuine OEM 582's for around $1500. Others are selling for around $500. Buy at own risk.

If I didn't buy the used OEM (and if I upgrade again in the future) I would probably go with a BNR. S1 being the closest to stock, S3 the most potential power. BNR is a trusted vendor on this site and guarantees their products. The S1 bolts up like a stock turbo but has upgraded internals and is stronger, more reliable and flows higher = more power.
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 Old 07-09-2014, 10:53 PM   #12
 
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I thought about getting a used turbo as you mentioned, but I feel like that's too much of a gamble. Most parts places here don't even list the mileage, and there's also no guarantee the turbo wasn't one that had the common smoking problem. They just say something like "ENGINE RAN". Unless I know for a fact that the turbo didn't smoke before the car died, I wouldn't buy a used one. Getting one from a MS3 guy upgrading might work, but I still might not have a good feeling about it. Are you in Japan?

Oh, and does anyone know what the core charge is on the BNR S1 turbo?

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 Old 07-09-2014, 10:54 PM   #13
 
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Orstrayla mate
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 Old 07-09-2014, 11:25 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Ozynigma View Post
Orstrayla mate
Ahh, gotcha. Good afternoon mate!

Is a rebuild kit an option or shouldn't turbo noobs mess with it? Do you need any special tools like pullers or presses? I also see cartridges for sale.

2007 2010 Mazda CX7 CX 7 2 3L Turbo turbocharger K0422 582 Rebuild Repair Kit | eBay
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 Old 07-10-2014, 03:09 AM   #15
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Don't rebuild. Especially if tools are lacking.

My recommendation here is to have the dealer swap.

Now classicmazdaparts.net sells the new turbo with livemm giving a 10% off code.

Rusty bolts means high risk of stuff breaking. Put that evil on the mechanic.

And damondmotorsports.com sells the banjo bolt. Consensus is it's great. Why? One of the members here came up with it years ago. eBay sells em with the wrong hole size. Damondmotorsports sells the right one.
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 Old 07-10-2014, 03:23 AM   #16
 
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If you need a detailled walkthrough of the turbo removal, I can come up with something...

Seized bolts and studs is a sad reality when stuff is removed for the first time (always put anti-seize when reassembling!), but MAAP torch and some PB Blaster can do some wonder

In my opinion, the rebuild is an option...no special tools needed

Like Raider said, the Banjo bolt is effective, bit its not a miracle solution if your turbo is toasted
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 Old 07-10-2014, 04:31 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Now classicmazdaparts.net sells the new turbo with livemm giving a 10% off code.
And then they charge 10% shipping!

Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
If you need a detailled walkthrough of the turbo removal, I can come up with something...

Seized bolts and studs is a sad reality when stuff is removed for the first time (always put anti-seize when reassembling!), but MAAP torch and some PB Blaster can do some wonder

In my opinion, the rebuild is an option...no special tools needed

Like Raider said, the Banjo bolt is effective, bit its not a miracle solution if your turbo is toasted
Thanks. If it was a brand new car I think I could do the swap no problem. I have access to the service manual for it, so I'm mainly looking for tips and need-to-know things rather than step-by-step.

Would like to hear more about what's involved with a rebuild. I'd get a preassembled cartridge, so then I just need to attach the compressor and exhaust housings to it?

The smoke isn't very bad at this point, good banjo bolt candidate or will it still get worse?
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 Old 07-10-2014, 04:43 PM   #18
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$120 shipping? Wow
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 Old 07-10-2014, 06:39 PM   #19
 
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[QUOTE=Thanks. If it was a brand new car I think I could do the swap no problem. I have access to the service manual for it, so I'm mainly looking for tips and need-to-know things rather than step-by-step.

Would like to hear more about what's involved with a rebuild. I'd get a preassembled cartridge, so then I just need to attach the compressor and exhaust housings to it?

The smoke isn't very bad at this point, good banjo bolt candidate or will it still get worse?[/QUOTE]

Taking the turbo out is rather straightfoward (the service manual is a good start), but be ready to get some bruises and do some cursing

Here are some trouble area :

- O2 sensor removal (need to do this to remove the heat shield to gain access to the downpipe to turbo stud)
- Two of the exhaust manifold nuts are a PITA to remove (I had to cut and weld a 14mm wrench to get access and leverage on a nut)
- The oil drain bolt closest to the block is very hard to remove (the oil drain line is partly in the way

The turbo rebuild only involve replacing the internal components of the CHRA

https://gpopshop.com/kkk-rebuild-kits/

I would start with the banjo bolt swap, then if its still smoke, go with thicker oil (do a search on MSF for more info)

If it still smoke, go with the rebuild...
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 07-12-2014, 04:07 PM   #20
 
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Now she said the CEL is on. Don't know the code yet, but my guess is P0172 since the combined fuel trims were about -15 at idle when I last looked at it. I just cleaned the MAF, so I'm wondering if the O2 sensor is getting dirty from the oil burning in the exhaust? I made sure it still responded rich and lean, but does getting dirty offset the stoichiometric point? I'm still learning about how you troubleshoot these wideband O2 sensors.
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 Old 07-12-2014, 04:11 PM   #21
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When our turbo shit the bed, the first O2 was coated in oil and replaced. If you take the intercooler off, the hoses will be coated in tar-like oil.

When you replace the turbo, grab a Denso from Amazon and you will be fine. Forget the part number.

Also, primary cat can be clogged from oil. Ours took almost a year to burn off.

Last edited by Raider; 07-12-2014 at 04:11 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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