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 Old 06-29-2015, 01:02 AM   #1
 
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Default my vvt issue

Well I have reading and reading for the past two days. Trying to figure out what I did wrong. every time I started my cx 7 i could hear my vvt getting worse and worse. I order parts. Last Yesterday I did it. I use the cam tool and the crank pin. I marked the Crank pulley to the crank Position Sensor. Once I got the vva. I marked it to the cam. Transferred the mark to the new one. installed it. put the chain on. it was loose in the middle. I tried to move the intake cam to torse the exhaust cam it wouldnt. I still had the cam tool on. so we rotated the vva to the front of the car. To tighten the chain up. once I got to the crank pulley. I lined it up with the crank position sensor. torqued it and turned it 90 degrees. Started it. Ran like crap and a knocking noise too. I did removed the crank pin before I started it.


Need some idea. Please Help. This is my daily driver.
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 Old 06-29-2015, 10:07 AM   #2
 
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Anyone?
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 Old 06-29-2015, 08:21 PM   #3
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Sorry just saw this. Sounds like the timing is way off. And if off enough, valves got bent. The only think you can do is get to TDC on the bottom end, and line up the cams.

If you can't, tow to dealer to get it done.
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 Old 06-29-2015, 08:50 PM   #4
 
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That's my plan.

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 Old 06-29-2015, 09:35 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Sorry just saw this. Sounds like the timing is way off. And if off enough, valves got bent. The only think you can do is get to TDC on the bottom end, and line up the cams.

If you can't, tow to dealer to get it done.
The wording of the OP is a little convoluted, but this thread is essentially a continuation of something that started in Rokusek's HOW-TO VVT thread.

OP had a VVT that was all jingly jangly so he read up, bought some parts, and took a stab at some engine surgery this past Sunday.

Timing tools were used and supposedly everything lined up appropriately, but upon startup engine knock was prevalent and the vehicle ran like crap.
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 Old 06-30-2015, 05:40 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by frothy View Post
The wording of the OP is a little convoluted, but this thread is essentially a continuation of something that started in Rokusek's HOW-TO VVT thread.

OP had a VVT that was all jingly jangly so he read up, bought some parts, and took a stab at some engine surgery this past Sunday.

Timing tools were used and supposedly everything lined up appropriately, but upon startup engine knock was prevalent and the vehicle ran like crap.
Ah. Well this could be really bad if it was that far off. Of course, the camp position sensor being loose can make the car run like ass too.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 09:48 AM   #7
 
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Did you make sure piston #1 was against the TDC pin when you torqued everything up?

If the cam tool was in place, and the crank position sensor is correctly aligned, the only thing that could have gone wrong IMO, is that piston #1 was not perfectly at TDC

One extra thing I did in my build to make sure everything align perfectly, is to mark the timing chain and the cam gears...see post #1 38 here : Big turbo build CX-7 :P
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 Old 07-01-2015, 10:43 AM   #8
 
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I did. I towed it to mazda yesterday.

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 Old 07-01-2015, 11:48 AM   #9
 
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well bad news. valve hit the piston. There goes my car.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 11:52 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Project_dog View Post
well bad news. valve hit the piston. There goes my car.
Damn dude. That sucks.

You can get a rebuilt longblock for about $3500 though, with warranty.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 12:20 PM   #11
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@EdgeAutosport.com; can finance you, too.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 12:38 PM   #12
 
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Well I will look into that. Thanks raider.

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 Old 07-01-2015, 12:41 PM   #13
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No worries. Call and ask for Alan. Tell him you love his music and Raider says hi.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 12:47 PM   #14
 
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Posted earlier today, FYI:

Originally Posted by EdgeAutosport.com View Post
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I will be going on vacation tomorrow and I won't be back in the office till the 14th of July. You can still contact us by emailing sales@edgeautosport.com. But, response time on the forum will be down until I get back so if you need anything, just email, or call us at 303-268-2140.

Thanks,
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 Old 07-01-2015, 01:30 PM   #15
 
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Oh man in sorry. I'm still a bit confused about your procedure when you were tightening the cams but it sounds like you didn't have even chain tension when you tightened the cams so that can actually put your timing slightly off if the tension is really uneven.

I hope you get it fixed up soon.

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 Old 07-01-2015, 02:43 PM   #16
 
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My pan is to pay the be diagnosed time. Get it towed to the house. Start tearing it down

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 Old 07-01-2015, 03:05 PM   #17
 
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Like I said. The chain was loose a little bit. So we turned the vva to tight the chain up. Then torq the vva to the cam

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 Old 07-01-2015, 03:39 PM   #18
 
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So how did you fuck up exactly?

Here's a video that shows fairly well how to time a similar motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqwnDmDkZrQ


I'm putting a 2.3 fusion motor in my daily and will have to swap intake cam and cranshaft pulley. I would like not to make the same mistake as you.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 06:47 PM   #19
 
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Damn bro, I didn't see you had actually started your own thread.

Sorry to hear the outcome. I was really hoping this wasn't the problem. keep your head up and rebuild.
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 Old 07-02-2015, 02:11 AM   #20
 
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Ya me too man.

I went over to mazda today. looks like the valve did hit the piston. all 4 cylinders. by the looks of it its not a lot of damage to the piston. The tech did a compression test. 1,3,4 are good. around 180. number 2 was at 90. they quoted me 2 engines. new and used. I told them no. I dont have 8700

My plan is to get it home friday. Then start tearing it down. I really hope I can get the cylinder head fixed and call it good.
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 Old 07-02-2015, 11:02 AM   #21
 
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@Project_dog; so how exactly did you fuck this up?
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 Old 07-02-2015, 02:51 PM   #22
 
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I don't know. Honestly

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 Old 07-02-2015, 09:27 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Project_dog View Post
I don't know. Honestly

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Damn that sucks dude. After you timed it, did you rotate the crank and then insert all the tools again to see if everything is still lined up?
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 Old 07-03-2015, 11:32 PM   #24
 
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No.


Got her home today. Started to tear it down.

I have a lot to do. I am going to pull the oil pan. Check for metal. I did find a spring (little one) timing cover housing.

I'm not sure if I want to do upgrades or just get her back to stock. I don't know anything about what piston upgrades rods, valves, I have a lot to read.

I am looking for a how to in pulling the cylinder head. If anyone knows.



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 Old 07-04-2015, 12:00 AM   #25
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you should be ok with a new head if the pistons and cylinder walls are ok. it sounds like you slightly bent a valve which isnt a huge deal. remove the head, check for damage, get new valves and guides in the original head.. enjoy
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 Old 07-04-2015, 07:28 PM   #26
 
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Honestly. Factory service manual is the best guide to removal.
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 Old 07-04-2015, 10:13 PM   #27
 
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Where you messed up, you turned the VVT to fix the timing. That's very wrong.
Keep the timing tool in until you're fully done and everything is torqued correctly.
Bolt VVT up to Intake Cam. Torque it down.
Make sure Piston 1 is TDC. Install TDC pin in back of block to keep cylinder there.
Put chain on. No slack between Exhaust and VVT. Slack is allowed between VVT and crank, and back up to Exhaust.
Pull the pin on the chain tensioner. Chain will snap tight. Should be no slack anywhere on the line now.

Put everything back together. Car is timed.

Until you're done with the whole procedure, Do NOT remove timing tools and do NOT turn the camshafts. All the chain tightening should be done by the chain tensioner.
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 Old 07-04-2015, 10:58 PM   #28
 
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uploadfromtaptalk1436075740494.jpeg

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 Old 07-05-2015, 07:52 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by l4nc3r View Post
Where you messed up, you turned the VVT to fix the timing. That's very wrong.
Keep the timing tool in until you're fully done and everything is torqued correctly.
Bolt VVT up to Intake Cam. Torque it down.
Make sure Piston 1 is TDC. Install TDC pin in back of block to keep cylinder there.
Put chain on. No slack between Exhaust and VVT. Slack is allowed between VVT and crank, and back up to Exhaust.
Pull the pin on the chain tensioner. Chain will snap tight. Should be no slack anywhere on the line now.

Put everything back together. Car is timed.

Until you're done with the whole procedure, Do NOT remove timing tools and do NOT turn the camshafts. All the chain tightening should be done by the chain tensioner.
If I read his explanation correctly. Before he tightened the vvt to the cam, he rotated the vvt only with the timing tools still in place to remove the slack.
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 Old 07-05-2015, 08:41 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by udntknw View Post
If I read his explanation correctly. Before he tightened the vvt to the cam, he rotated the vvt only with the timing tools still in place to remove the slack.
That's interesting in the video I watched they rotate both the exhaust and intake cam to get rid of the slack.
https://youtu.be/RqwnDmDkZrQ?t=2m49s
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 Old 07-05-2015, 09:36 PM   #31
 
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Pulled the head off today. Did find some marks on the pistons. A ton of carbon built up on the pistons. I cleaned up. I didn't find any cracks.




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 Old 07-05-2015, 09:43 PM   #32
 
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Cylinder 1



Cylinder 2



Cylinder 3



Cylinder 4



I put some brake clean in the exhaust ports too see if the valves are leaking. Number 2 is leaking. Later tonight I'm going to do the intake side.

Plus I'm going to send it out to tested.


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 Old 07-06-2015, 08:28 AM   #33
 
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For whatever its worth bro, I give you credit for trying and for struggling on. Successful people are never afraid to fail. This is a pain in the ass but you're gonna learn a lot in the process and become that much more confident.
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 Old 07-06-2015, 10:05 AM   #34
 
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Does the pistons have cut out for the intake valve. ?

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 Old 07-06-2015, 10:45 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Project_dog View Post
Does the pistons have cut out for the intake valve. ?

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Yes, they have reliefs for the valves
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 Old 07-06-2015, 11:11 AM   #36
 
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Well next step. Is I'm going to remove. The pan. Check the rod.

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 Old 07-06-2015, 04:17 PM   #37
 
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Keep up the good work...now youre gonna the engine inside/out
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 Old 07-06-2015, 05:03 PM   #38
 
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I need to figure out how to support the engine while I take off the oil plan. Since I don't have the pass side motor mount.

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 Old 07-06-2015, 05:04 PM   #39
 
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Are you concerned about the rod?
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**New Motor**
Best 1/4 - 13.35 Stock turbo/ street tires
Best trap speed - 112.5


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 Old 07-06-2015, 06:01 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Project_dog View Post
I need to figure out how to support the engine while I take off the oil plan. Since I don't have the pass side motor mount.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Put back the timing chain cover and passenger side mount, then take of the pan...its no fun, but its the only way
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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