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 Old 05-20-2014, 12:48 PM   #1
 
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Default Oil loss

Hi
The last 5,000 miles ive added almost 2 1/2 quarts of oil. i check my oil every weekend and have been adding little amount to keep to full mark. There are no oil leaks anywhere. My dealer checked for turbo issues and said that the turbo is fine. but they have no idea as of right now were the oil is going. The other day I noticed a puff of black smoke after I accelerated. I was wondering if anyone would have some guidance to what could be possible causes. My dealer is always really good at replacing stuff. I do have a extended warranty. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks. 2007 CX-7, awd gt 73,000 miles. full synthetic and filter change every 5k .Thanks
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 Old 05-20-2014, 12:53 PM   #2
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How much black smoke, a little is normal of your on the rich side. A lot could be oil.

Edit: also what oil are you using?
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 Old 05-20-2014, 01:10 PM   #3
 
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Its a pretty decent cloud but goes away quickly. I am using Mobile one full synthetic 5w30.

I always check oil levels in my cars on the weekend and ive had the cx-7 since new. Its never had oil loss until now.

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 Old 05-20-2014, 01:19 PM   #4
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Switch to a 5w40. Cheapest is Shell Rotella T6. Should fix/slow problem.

edit: Also, Mobil 1 is a bad oil for our engines. The DI causes the oil to be flooded with fuel. Take out your dipstick, probably stinks of fuel.
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 Old 05-20-2014, 01:25 PM   #5
 
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Time to do a compression and leak down test to check motor health.

I'm going to bet the motor and/or turbo are burning oil. I have read about a Speed3 that was consuming quite a bit of oil and had very little smoke. Mazda said the cats where absorbing the excess and they warrantied the turbo and full exhaust because he still had smoke on occasion after turbo replacement. New exhaust/cats, problem gone. But 2 and a half quarts is quite a bit. He was only consuming about a quart between changes.

Have you tried letting it idle for 15-30min? Getting lots of smoke?

Also, Mobil oil sucks for our cars. Rotella T6 FTW.
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 Old 05-20-2014, 01:42 PM   #6
 
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Could be as simple as a shot PCV. Although the PCV isn't really simple to get to. My MS3 started eating about a quart between oil changes and had a slight hot oil smell when parked in a garage / confined space.
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 Old 05-20-2014, 01:44 PM   #7
 
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My cx-7 is at the dealer now so i am going to tell them to do the compression and leak down test. Its weird how they said that after inspecting the turbo it is fine put they dont now why oil is being consumed. Could you guys please explain more about why mobile one is bad. I want to buy the best oil for my cx-7 so if there is better oil then rotella i will get it.
thanks

Also i have nt noticed the gas smell on the dipstick. I have let it idle just not for more than 15 minutes and no smoke.

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 Old 05-20-2014, 02:42 PM   #8
 
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PCV valve failure can cause some extra oil burning, but to burn 2 and a half quarts in less than 5,000 miles is a bit much. You either spend hours idling or you have several issues causing the burning of oil.

If the PCV valve has never been replaced it's due as a preventative maintenance item anyways given your age and mileage. I would replace it with an OEM Mazda one. You have a warranty so you may not want to add an Oil catch can but at 70,000+ miles your car could really benefit from an thorough, intake, throttle body, valves, and EGR cleaning and while the intake is off replace the PCV and add a stage 2 catch can.

If memory serves me right the 2 best regularly available oil for our cars is Pennzoil Platinum and Rotella T6. Rotella is cheaper and a 5w-40 so it may help with oil consumption.

I would recommend Rotella T6 and an OEM Mazda filter going forward.
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 Old 05-20-2014, 02:59 PM   #9
 
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Without compression/leak down test you'll be shooting in the dark. After that test you should be able to gauge where the oil is going.

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 Old 05-20-2014, 03:47 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Big Dog View Post
PCV valve failure can cause some extra oil burning, but to burn 2 and a half quarts in less than 5,000 miles is a bit much. You either spend hours idling or you have several issues causing the burning of oil.

If the PCV valve has never been replaced it's due as a preventative maintenance item anyways given your age and mileage. I would replace it with an OEM Mazda one. You have a warranty so you may not want to add an Oil catch can but at 70,000+ miles your car could really benefit from an thorough, intake, throttle body, valves, and EGR cleaning and while the intake is off replace the PCV and add a stage 2 catch can.

If memory serves me right the 2 best regularly available oil for our cars is Pennzoil Platinum and Rotella T6. Rotella is cheaper and a 5w-40 so it may help with oil consumption.

I would recommend Rotella T6 and an OEM Mazda filter going forward.
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Would you say Penzoil is better than Rotella? I get my oil changes at the dealer and I bring my own oil.
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 Old 05-20-2014, 03:53 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by zoom241 View Post
Big Dog
Would you say Penzoil is better than Rotella? I get my oil changes at the dealer and I bring my own oil.
I made my recommendation. Rotella T6 has proven itself through used oil analysis. Run Rotella T6 and an OEM filter.

Report back once your hear back from the dealer. Now please donate to MSF. Oh and I recommend updating the avatar.
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 Old 05-20-2014, 03:58 PM   #12
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Any 5w40 will work, rotella is the most commonly used on this forum. I personally use Castol Edge Syntec 5w40(US), about $9/qrt. (Good sales for this randomly)
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 Old 05-28-2014, 05:44 AM   #13
 
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Okay so my cx-7 is still at the dealer. They are waiting on parts for some other issues I had addressed. I spoke to service guy yesterday and he still at this point is saying that they are at a crossroad as to the oil consumption. He felt no need for compression test or leak test. I am waiting to hear from him today with further info.
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 Old 05-28-2014, 06:07 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Fatpig78 View Post
Without compression/leak down test you'll be shooting in the dark. After that test you should be able to gauge where the oil is going.

sent while Netflixing...
I mentioned these tests to my service guy at the dealer and he feels that they arent needed. He said if there was a compression problem there would be noticable engine issues or even possibly cel. I feel that they are beating around the bush. He said he would be calling the extended warranty company and calling me later.
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 Old 05-28-2014, 06:37 AM   #15
 
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How would a loss in compression result in a CEL?


Oh, yeah. It wouldn't. Not by itself. If they don't find the problem I'd borrow a compression tester from Autozone and do the test yourself (with a friend); it's a simple test.
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 Old 05-28-2014, 07:26 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by zoom241 View Post
I mentioned these tests to my service guy at the dealer and he feels that they arent needed. He said if there was a compression problem there would be noticable engine issues or even possibly cel. I feel that they are beating around the bush. He said he would be calling the extended warranty company and calling me later.
Yea they are yanking you. You could have one cylinder off from the others and still not throw a cel. He's going to the extreme of lost compression which causes misfiring which you're not there yet otherwise you'd know for sure. Maybe try asking a little more aggressively just to get a status of your engine for peace of mind. I think it's been stated anything under 120psi is garbage and a difference of 20% between cylinders is also cause for concern that way you have numbers to back up your claim of oil consumption. Hope this helps

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 Old 05-28-2014, 08:23 AM   #17
 
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I had lower than normal compression and oil loss with no leak.. Result of that is now a fully built and forged bottom end.

Not saying this is your issue, but I would make them do a compression check. Hell, pay the $75 if you have to, if you do it on your own, they may say you screwed something up. Dealers are mostly shit. You could also try another dealer. Are you still under warranty? How many miles on the car? Do you drive it like me (like a dick)?

If their service tech says no to the compression check, go to his boss.

My issue with low compression. Had blow by.. dip stick would shoot out at 20 psi... lol
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 Old 05-28-2014, 03:02 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 View Post
I had lower than normal compression and oil loss with no leak.. Result of that is now a fully built and forged bottom end.

Not saying this is your issue, but I would make them do a compression check. Hell, pay the $75 if you have to, if you do it on your own, they may say you screwed something up. Dealers are mostly shit. You could also try another dealer. Are you still under warranty? How many miles on the car? Do you drive it like me (like a dick)?

If their service tech says no to the compression check, go to his boss.

My issue with low compression. Had blow by.. dip stick would shoot out at 20 psi... lol
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Hi
Yes I am still under my extended warranty. 75,000 k and I drive normal. sometimes aggressive. This is the same dealer Ive always went to and they have always treated me awesome. Replacing alot of things. This is what is concerning me that they are not giving me a straight answer.
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 Old 05-28-2014, 03:24 PM   #19
 
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Yesterday they mentioned possible turbo replacement but I have not heard from them today. I am also kinda worried about getting a new turbo because others have noted that new turbo went bad shortly after replacement. makes me wonder if the turbos in general have a flaw.
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 Old 05-28-2014, 04:55 PM   #20
 
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inb4: Needs new motor and dealer is trying to avoid it"
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 Old 05-28-2014, 05:47 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Big Dog View Post
inb4: Needs new motor and dealer is trying to avoid it"
Well I guess after a turbo replacement if oil loss is still happening then that may be the case.
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 Old 05-29-2014, 02:03 AM   #22
 
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You have low compression they'd have to give you an engine hence the hesitation I'd assume.

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