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 Old 02-12-2011, 08:21 AM   #1
 
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Default Stuttering after Gas Fillup

Hey Folks,

Was a mcx7 member before whatever that was happened. Glad at least a couple posts showed where everyone went.

Anyhow, every now and then when filling up on gas the car will stutter and occasionally shut off. If I restart and blip the gas a couple times it'll be alright and drive normally for a while. A friend of mine thought that it might be water in the tank so I've run a couple bottles of HEET to attempt that. I've also used Seafoam for fuel injector cleaner.

I'm wondering if this might not be a water problem, but indicative of something else.

Thanks,
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 Old 02-12-2011, 08:43 AM   #2
 
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My roommate had the same problem on his Dakota. He left the hood open for a few hours to let things dry and no problems since.

I first thought water as well. Dumb question but, are you using the right octane? Winter blends usually suck (I don't know why). That may be a problem. Try going to another station, on that is "top tier."

All else fails. Dealer visit
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 Old 02-12-2011, 08:53 AM   #3
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What brand of gas? It does matter.

I've seen many problems with stuttering with the cheaper gas (on other cars).
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 Old 02-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #4
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Glad you found us! I ave heard of this before. You running 91+ octane? Arco or bargain gas can cause issues, too. Also, take a look at the MAF and see if it is dirty.

Just did a google. The purge valve was the culprit. Replaced and the user never posted again about it.

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 Old 02-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #5
 
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+1 on dirty maf...go to autozone or some shit and get some maf cleaner for that whore

and get good gas...7 eleven is not good gas



glad to see you make it from mcx7...this place is so much better
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 Old 02-12-2011, 01:35 PM   #6
 
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If you insist on filling the tank by clicking the pump several times then you can overload the charcoal canister. When that happens the excess fumes from the gas saturated canister will cause an over rich mixture and it can take a minutes or more to clear. Continue to do this and you will need to replace the canister.
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 Old 02-12-2011, 02:59 PM   #7
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YouTube - gsrtype1 - Gotta Get That Ghes

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 Old 02-12-2011, 04:24 PM   #8
 
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Thanks for the responses - I'll take a look at the MAF and look into the purge valve as well. I'm going to eventually do a CAI, but just running stock ATM.

Gas wise - everything in California is pretty bad, but we usually fill up at Costco. Perhaps that's part of the problem. We just got back from a Texas trip and didn't notice the problem when we were running 93. =)

Ed, I stop when it clicks the first time, but that doesn't mean the original owner did not. I've had the car for almost 30k miles now...lol, and almost 10k of that's been travelling from California to Texas for a few trips.
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 Old 02-12-2011, 11:01 PM   #9
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this is a problem many people have. i have it, gsrtype1 had it... it's not the gas.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 06:34 AM   #10
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Check the purge valve? Fixed one cx7 owner.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 06:57 AM   #11
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could be, manual says not to remove unless replacing because it may cause a evap leakage - but that might be where i'm getting that fuel smell from since i modified it to work with my IM.
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 Old 02-14-2011, 05:02 PM   #12
 
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Anyone have a picture of where it's located? I'm not finding any substantial information online about installation of a purge valve. I wouldn't mind seeing if it's something I can handle versus taking it to a mechanic.
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 Old 02-14-2011, 05:12 PM   #13
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You an have access to the complete manual for speed3. Donate $$ t the forum and get vip access!
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 Old 02-16-2011, 04:17 PM   #14
 
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$10 for VIP compared to, what, $150, for the actual manual?
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 Old 02-23-2011, 09:18 PM   #15
 
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I learned the hard way on my Corolla by overfilling a couple times, did the same exact thing mentioned. It was the purge valve.
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 Old 02-24-2011, 08:16 PM   #16
 
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Would it cause an engine light to come on? That just started today. *sigh*
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 Old 02-24-2011, 08:38 PM   #17
 
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Also, know where i can buy a purge valve for the CX7? I don't want to pay Mazda to do it since it appears easy enough... Famous last words.. lol.
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 Old 02-24-2011, 11:55 PM   #18
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you can buy one from a dealer...


also, what's the CEL? you might have an evap leak somewhere.
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 Old 02-25-2011, 03:14 AM   #19
 
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Why don't you fill in the information as to what year & model of your Mazda. There are TSBs on early models on the gas fill pipe being too short and other issues. Your problem does however, sound like a gas filled charcoal canister or purge valve.
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 Old 02-25-2011, 08:35 AM   #20
 
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Ed, must have missed where in usercp I can add my car info. It is an early model - 2007 cx7.

Sounds like I'm forced to head over to the dealership to at least see where things are coming from. I just have a hard time paying the money for something that sounds easy enough to do.
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 Old 02-25-2011, 08:42 AM   #21
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Advance Auto has free CEL check. Dealer is $100 to read it alone. P2187 is the CEL code you are probably getting.

p0455 + p2187 = bad purge valve?
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 Old 02-25-2011, 10:06 AM   #22
 
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Thanks, I'll see if we have one close and check it out.

I also found the part and location, but based of the mazdaspeed 6. Can I expect it to be the item?

Car Part Wholesale - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Dorman Purge Valve For 2007 Mazda 6
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 Old 02-25-2011, 10:20 AM   #23
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Dude. Donate to the forum and have full access to the shop manuals in VIP.

onlinemazdaparts.com is who I recommend. Excellent experiences, and quick shipping.
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 Old 02-25-2011, 11:23 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Dude. Donate to the forum and have full access to the shop manuals in VIP.
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
onlinemazdaparts.com is who I recommend. Excellent experiences, and quick shipping.
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 Old 02-26-2011, 08:49 AM   #25
 
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Had one of those "duh" moments yesterday. The idle has been touchy after the last ecu reset during an oil change and transmission flush. I figured that the ecu figured most of it out even though it acted sketchy once in a while. Now with the gas it makes sense. I don't know why I didn't tie the two together.

In the meantime, I reset the ecu and will order the part tomorrow. The reset helped with the gas smell and we'll see about the stutter while the computer is reworking itself.

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 Old 03-13-2011, 05:57 PM   #26
 
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Did it work out ok? The issue I had w/my corolla was the low idle, gas smell, engine cutting out, and even stalling, and yeah, definately a check engine light. It's amazing that a simple little purge valve can be such a picklesmooch. Unfortunately those things are dealer only parts and not cheap.
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 Old 03-13-2011, 06:20 PM   #27
 
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I certanly would not order a purge valve until you know what the problem is or did I miss something?
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 Old 03-13-2011, 06:26 PM   #28
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 Old 05-16-2011, 02:15 PM   #29
 
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Still waiting for another check engine light - I haven't had one in ages, but I also haven't had many stuttering problems. I went ahead and ordered the part. Installed today. We'll see how it goes on the next fill up or two. If it happens to be the canister from the previous owner and not the purge then I'm out a small amount compared to replacing the canister and being out more.

I'm going to take it in for a different problem. What I thought was a rattling intercooler shield/duct is something else. Perhaps they can see what's up during a different service.
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 Old 05-19-2011, 03:53 PM   #30
 
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Intercooler duct is plastic. You should take it off (two clips in front/pull forward and up) and check to see if the TMIC screen is loose or something simple.
Stupid to take it to a dealer when it may be something you could just tighten up and not loose your car for a day and spend $$$$
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 Old 05-19-2011, 04:40 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
already posted that.
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 Old 05-20-2011, 06:27 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by Alpha Wolf View Post
Intercooler duct is plastic. You should take it off (two clips in front/pull forward and up) and check to see if the TMIC screen is loose or something simple.
Stupid to take it to a dealer when it may be something you could just tighten up and not loose your car for a day and spend $$$$
I certainly thought that the plastic cover was the problem so I tried taping it off to isolate better and that didn't make much of a difference. I didn't check the metal cover underneath. I can update in a different thread but the details:

1. Rarely, accelerating through a right hand turn from speed(not stopped) I heard a rattling noise that sounded like it was coming from behind but couldn't see anything weird.

2. Lately, I was able to replicate the noise two times in a row by pressing down on the gas 3/4 at around 40 miles an hour. The car doesn't downshift and makes the rattling noise that appears to be from the front left somewhere. I've tried a couple times since then to replicate and can't figure it out. *sigh*

At some point I'm going to be taking apart the intake to install a CAI but until then it's rare but annoying. Handles fine and seems to accelerate fine. *shrug*
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 Old 03-19-2012, 10:11 PM   #33
 
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Same problem:

Started when a lady attendent pumped more than usual on my car to fill up, it wasn't cooperating with her at first or something (This is Oregon)

Started car, stuttered and would die if I didn't turn it off.

Fuel trims started heading for the hills at +25 STFT.

Tried uninstalling AP in effort to get CEL to show dealer for warranty work.

Oh shit, CPO Warranty doesent cover such an emissions item as PVS.

Saw links here for part for 15 at Rock Auto.

Waiting on part to come.

In mean time Stage 1 SRI Safe mode, feels much more safe with higher idle than having the lower stock idle on top of the crazy lean AFR.

Hoping installation will be just be literally plugnplay.
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 Old 01-06-2015, 07:43 AM   #34
 
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IM sorry to bring this post back to live but I did not want to create a new one....

This is my experience and your help will be appreciated....

4 months ago I got the cel code P2402.... the truck felt weird like slow so I did change the fuel filter and clean the throttle body and was better....

after 2 months meaning like two months ago... whenever I Fuel the tank the truck will start stuttering.... and sometimes to shutdown...sometimes the only way to start the truck will be to blip the gas.... this will stop after a coulple minutes...

I took to a scan... and it looks PCV valve is working since at iddle is showing 0% but if you speed up it would show a different reading... I also tried with a new gas cap with no success.....

some plp thinks is the purge solenoid....

What do you think?
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 Old 01-06-2015, 08:23 AM   #35
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IIRC, this is a fuel filler neck issue possibly, and there is a known TSB. Needs to be replaced.
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 Old 01-06-2015, 02:07 PM   #36
 
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I was only able to find this two.... :

MAZDA: DETERMINING EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM LEAK LOCATION FOR DTCS P0441, P0442, P0455, P0455. SOME VEHICLES MAY HAVE A MIL ILLUMINATION WITH DTCS STORED IN MEMORY. *PE UPDATED 4/18/11. *PE

and

IT IS POSSIBLE THAT A MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT MAY ILLUMINATE WITH DTC P0455 (EVAP SYSTEM LEAK DETECTED LARGE LEAK) STORED IN MEMORY, DUE TO POOR SEALING BETWEEN THE FUEL FILLER PIPE AND FUEL FILLER CAP. *PE

My code is a different one... P2402
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 Old 01-27-2015, 09:58 AM   #37
 
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Stalling problem after fueling has been solved after installing a new purge valve....

I will monitor if code p2402 appear again... I hope not!
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 Old 01-27-2015, 04:11 PM   #38
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Thanks for posting the resolution for the next guy!
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 Old 02-25-2015, 08:07 AM   #39
 
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P2402 code stop appearing after I replace the EVAP pump.....

regards
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