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-   -   econman's GTX2867R Install (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f540/econmans-gtx2867r-install-167525/)

econman 03-30-2014 04:37 PM

econman's GTX2867R Install
 
42 Attachment(s)
There have been a number of how-to installation threads for big turbos, but few of them are fully detailed. With the number of GTX and BNR turbos going into cars, I thought I would put together a detailed how-to for my GTX2867R install. Please note I am terrible with socket/wrench/bolt sizes, so I may be wrong in a few places below.

I'd like to cite the follow threads as they were extremely helpful.
  1. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...p-turbo-92486/
  2. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...wap-how-88946/
  3. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...071-how-40614/

Things to buy before install:
  • Anti-Sieze
  • 2" Metal Exhaust Coupler
  • Oil Catch Pan for Coolant
  • Clamps
  • Any tools you may be missing - I picked up some wobble attachments

Here's my starting mod list:
  1. HTP 3.5" Intake (you will need a different coupler to go with the GTX2867R - I ordered both (stock and BT size) from HTP when I bought the intake
  2. JBR All Mounts
  3. Cobb EBCS
  4. UR Full Turboback
  5. JBR Battery Box
  6. 3Bar MAP Sensor w/ Harness
  7. JBR TIG and TB Gaskets
  8. Corksport HPFP Internal & BPV
  9. Cobb Accessport V3
  10. Other stuff I'm forgetting

Here is the process I went through for the installation:

1). Remove TMIC/FMIC hot-side pipe, intake (tip included), battery box, battery. Basically you need full access to the turbo and exhaust manifold

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396222895

2). Remove the 5 8mm bolts securing the heatshield to the top of the manifold.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396222895

3). Remove the TMIC brace (i think these are 13mm). I was able to feed a socket though the manifold to crack the bolt that is closest to the drivers side. Moving the brace will make it easier to remove the manifold. Remove wires that are clipped to brace

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396222895

4). Remove the second heatshield on the manifold. It is held in place with 3 8mm bolts.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396222895

5). Remove the upper two 8mm bolts securing the heatshield on the turbo

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396222895

6). Remove the 5 14mm Downpipe nuts and the 22mm O2 sensor. If you are using the stock downpipe, you can reach them all from above the car using various extensions/u-joins/luck. If you have an aftermarket downpipe, you will likely have to remove the bottom nuts from under the car. Once the bolts are removed, go under the car and detach the downpipe from the rest of the exhaust. You do not have to remove the downpipe from the car. Put the O2 sensor in a safe place by the turbo inlet for now

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

7). Go under the car and remove the last 8mm bolt holding the turbo heatshield on. Remove the heatshield from below the car

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

8). Unclip both the upper and lower O2 sensor harnesses. Once removed, you can pivot the downpipe out of the way. You do not need to remove it from the car

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

9.) Remove the 4 14mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. I used a 1/2" ratchet to break these loose and remove them. They weren't too bad.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

10). Remove the 10 14MM nuts holds the manifold to the engine. 7 of the 10 can be removed from the passenger side while the other 3 are removed from the drivers side. There are two that are difficult from the passenger side - the one directly above the alternator and the one under the manifold to turbo connection. I removed the one directly above the alternator buy squeezing a 3/8" ratchet and socket in there to break it loose and then used a 1/4" socket to remove it. The one below the manifold was removed using a 12pt wrench.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

In order to make your life easy, remove the primary EGR to have better access to the 3 drivers side nuts. There are two 10mm bolts securing the EGR. Be sure to have something to catch the coolant the leaves the EGR. Also be sure to keep the gasket.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

the upper most nut can be removed using a 1/2" ratchet while the other two can be removed using a 14mm ratcheting wrench.

There is also a small 8mm bolt on the passenger side of the manifold that is a bracket that holds the oil feed line to the manifold. Remove that bolt.

Heres a pic of the manifold removed to help. The left side is the passenger side.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

11). Remove the oil feed banjo bolt from the top of the car on top of the turbo. I believe it is 12mm. Be sure to get both crush washers.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

12). At the bottom of the turbo, there is a 10mm nut that needs to be removed so that you can remove one of the brackets that holds the turbo in place.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

13). Go under the car, remove the two bolts holding the oil return line to the turbo. Then remove the two bolts (I believe they are 8mm) holding the line to the engine. Put aside the line.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

14). Remove both coolant banjos. Start with the banjo closest to the firewall (coolant return). Be sure to have that oil catch pan under the car because you will begin to loose coolant. Go above the car and remove the hard line from the car. You will not reuse this.

Remove the coolant feed banjo bolt (closer to the front of the car). Again, more coolant will visit you. Wait until all the coolant drains and then you can remove the hard line from the car (I left mine and removed it later). You will reuse the line

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

How much coolant I lost

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

15). Now things get real. All the is holding the turbo in is the turbo brace below the car. Grab a friend, spouse, girlfriend/boyfriend, neighbor, etc to help with this next part. Start by removing the bolt holding the brace to the turbo. Then remove the drivers side bolt. Once those two are removed, tell you friend to hold the turbo. Remove the third bolt.

The turbo will more than likely not drop due to the studs holding it against the manifold. Start the removal by wiggle the manifold and turbo to free the turbo studs from the manifold. The turbo will drop so be sure you are holding it. Have you friend extract the manifold from the top of the car and set aside. Remove turbo from the car (through the top) and set aside. Put all the remove banjo bolts back in the stock turbo so you don't lose them.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

16). Prep the new turbo. You'll need to attach the oil return flange to the new turbo using the supplied hardware from ATP (be sure to use the gasket). Remove the studs and nuts from the turbo as it will make your life easier. Also remove both banjo bolts and all 4 crush washers and set aside. Take the stock turbo to manifold gasket and put it on your new turbo at this time

I didn't do this at the time, but you should. Take the coolant feed hard line and go ahead and attach it to the turbo (goes in the back of the turbo). You will need to bend the line to get it around compressor housing. The hard line goes next to the intake side and will point towards the back of the car. The easiest way to bend it is to thread in the banjo bolt a good part of the way and then just bend the line so it clears. Don't forget the two crush washers. You can install the line once the turbo is in, but it is hell to do so. It is very difficult to get a 19mm wrench or socket to tighten the banjo bolt due to clearances and the stock oil feed line.

17). Go back under the car and attach the supplied oil return flange to the block using two of the 8mm bolts you removed from the stock oil return line.

18). Take photos of the two turbos to show to friends/dog/neighbors/co-workers

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

19). Have your friend put the new turbo back in the car from the top while you are under the car waiting to receive. Once you have the turbo, have your friend place 4 studs in the top of the turbo. You can set it gently by the downpipe and go above to help your friend with the manifold

Put the manifold back in the car (don't forget your gaskets) and securing it loosely using a few nuts on the passenger and drivers side of the car. You want to make sure the manifold is secure, but has ample wiggle room

Go back under the car and push the turbo towards the manifold while you friend guides the 4 studs into place. Once the studs pass into the manifold, secure at least two of them (diagonal ones) using the supplied washers and 15mm nuts.


20). Put the other two washers and nuts on the turbo to manifold connection and tighten using a 15mm socket and ratchet.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

21). Tighten the 10 14mm manifold nuts. Alternate between sides to avoid dragons.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

22). Go under the car and attach the oil return line to the turbo and engine. Attach the coolant feed hard line to the rubber tubing and secure the clamps.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

23). Put 5 studs on the turbo so the downpipe can be connected. Pull the downpipe up from its resting place and slide it into place. Don't forget your gaskets. Put your upper O2 sensor back in. Don't forget to go back under the car and hook up your O2 harnesses!

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

24). (Optional) Replace lower heatshield and 3 8mm bolts

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

25). Now it is time for the worst part, the oil feed banjo. The oil feed line is very inflexible and is not your friend. What you will need to do is take the appropriate sized socket (15mm I think - I could be wrong though) and stuff it with paper. Insert the banjo bolt into the socket and see how far down it goes in the socket. Put more paper in if the head of the banjo bolt slides at all beyond the lip of the socket. You want to ensure the bolt does not slide into the socket and you get maximum pressure on the bolt. IF YOU SKIP THIS YOU WILL LIKELY BE ANGRY. Get your crush washers set and secure the banjo bolt. I used a 15mm wrench to push on the oil feed line to make my life easier.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

Socket:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

After!:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

26). (Optional) Replace the TMIC Brace and secure the wires to it

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

27). (Optional) Secure the upper heatsink using the 5 8mm bolts

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

28). Replace the EGR using the 2 10mm bolts. Don't get the gasket

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

29). Wire your EBCS and EGR and also hook up the coolant return line from the turbo to the EGR. It is also a good time to put your intake coupler on. If you are using a Cobb EBCS and are not using the stock intake bolting location, you can actually secure the EBCS to the bolt. It works great!

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

30). Reinstall your intake and battery/battery box. You will likely be using a larger intake and you will make to use magic to get it all to fit. Reinstall your hot-pipe for the FMIC or TMIC.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

You will need to modify the coupler sent by ATP in order to get everything to work. I went to Autozone and picked up a 2" diameter exhaust pipe (about 4"-5" long) and cut the ATP coupler. Using the exhaust pipe, connect the stock TMIC (or whatever coupler you were using before) and ATP coupler to the exhaust pipe. You should be able to slide both couplers completely over the metal piece. This will likely differ substantially for you, but I wanted to let you know how I did it.

31). Reinstall hot-side pipe for FMIC or TMIC

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1396223049

32). Start car. I drove the car around for a few miles just to be sure everything is good. Now I am taking a break before the tuning begins!

I apologize if this lacks any details and hopefully it'll help someone else out in the future.

7mileshome 03-30-2014 05:23 PM

Nice, you are really going to enjoy that turbo.

Agent_Orange 03-30-2014 05:28 PM

Nice.

Got a tune lined up for it?

econman 03-30-2014 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agent_Orange (Post 2519356)
Nice.

Got a tune lined up for it?

I will be self-tuning

TimidDurkmagurk 03-30-2014 05:48 PM

Nice write up can't wait to see the build. Good work. May the Weim tuning begin.:You_Rock_Emoticon:

JakeMS3 03-30-2014 05:58 PM

What size is the inlet on that turbo? Is it 4" like the GT's or a 3" inlet?

econman 03-30-2014 06:04 PM

3" inlet

BigBoostMS3 03-30-2014 06:18 PM

Nice writeup!

A tip for the oil feed: Attach it before you mount the turbo to the manifold. If you pull the manifold out and have someone hold the turbo from under the car, it's easy to attach the oil feed. Then throw the manifold on the head and put one nut on. Then start two of the studs on the turbo. Start studs on the opposite corners so the turbo can hang without putting any awkward pressure on the manifold.

Doing it that way has saved us a bunch of headaches recently.

MizzyMS3 03-30-2014 07:09 PM

Great write-up! Subbing for my upcoming install.

Mast 03-30-2014 11:33 PM

great write up!!! subbed for future install hopefully sooner than later.

Zpuhalla 04-24-2014 07:38 PM

This was a huge help! Thanks!

speed3 britz 04-25-2014 11:35 AM

Nice, I'll be installing my BNR S3 here in couple weeks

econman 04-26-2014 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zpuhalla (Post 2557612)
This was a huge help! Thanks!

I'm glad it was helpful! What turbo did you install?

Zpuhalla 04-26-2014 12:46 PM

econman's GTX2867R Install
 
Gtx3067r. Smaller 3" inlet.

The only thing I did different was leave the manifold in on the car and sneak the turbo in and out the side by removing the egr.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

econman 04-26-2014 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zpuhalla (Post 2559883)
Gtx3067r. Smaller 3" inlet.

The only thing I did different was leave the manifold in on the car and sneak the turbo in and out the side by removing the egr.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought about doing that, but since it was my first swap, I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room. Congrats on the upgrade

TeckniX 05-02-2014 09:22 AM

Nice detail write-up and great step-by-step pictures. Can't wait to see some numbers on this!

tmulls3622 05-03-2014 10:50 PM

@econman

where did u get the turbo from & how much? How much more hp are u getting now?

econman 05-04-2014 10:55 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tmulls3622 (Post 2569790)
@econman

where did u get the turbo from & how much? How much more hp are u getting now?

I got my turbo from Edgeautosport during their tax sale. It was about $1600.

Here's my latest log. I need to make an adjustment to my WGDC but the car feels good. VD shows 340hp/343lbft w/ 1.01 CF, 3 smoothing 180lb occ. weight on 93 octane. I've got a tiny bit of KR up top, so it might be time to add some E85 to the tank.

tmulls3622 05-04-2014 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by econman (Post 2570095)
I got my turbo from Edgeautosport during their tax sale. It was about $1600.

Here's my latest log. I need to make an adjustment to my WGDC but the car feels good. VD shows 340hp/343lbft w/ 1.01 CF, 3 smoothing 180lb occ. weight on 93 octane. I've got a tiny bit of KR up top, so it might be time to add some E85 to the tank.

I figured it was from Edge. Is VD the virtual dyno on the access port? Also how long have u been tuning?

econman 05-04-2014 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmulls3622 (Post 2570287)
I figured it was from Edge. Is VD the virtual dyno on the access port? Also how long have u been tuning?

Virtual Dyno. I got my first mazdaspeed in late 2011 and started tuning it in the spring of 2012, so about two years now.

tmulls3622 05-04-2014 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by econman (Post 2570320)
Virtual Dyno. I got my first mazdaspeed in late 2011 and started tuning it in the spring of 2012, so about two years now.

that's awesome. Is it hard or complicated? Have u tuned other friends' cars or anyone else?

econman 05-04-2014 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmulls3622 (Post 2570327)
that's awesome. Is it hard or complicated? Have u tuned other friends' cars or anyone else?

It is mostly a big time commitment. You have to learn what each table in ATR means and how it is related to every other table, so you are reading a lot on the forums. IMO, it is the dynamics that are difficult.

JSmith 05-04-2014 04:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Where you able to reuse the support bracket from the k04 on the gtx2867?

edit.

This is the link to modifying the stock bracket.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...59/index2.html

See post 75.

After install edit.

Does not fit. Modifying per the link above would not remedy.

econman 05-04-2014 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSmith (Post 2570354)
Where you able to reuse the support bracket from the k04 on the gtx2867?

No, the turbo is held in place by the manifold and downpipe. I think there is a thread somewhere about how to modify the bracket to reuse it.

econman 05-31-2014 05:20 AM

2 Attachment(s)
A small update. I put a few gallons of E85 in the tank and moved forward with some additional timing. My goal has always been around 350/350 without meth and it looks like I've hit it with with 21psi and 12.5° peak timing. With additional fueling, this car would easily be 400+hp given how much is left in the turbo.

I need to do a little more work with the boost comp tables and I'm going to lean the car out from 11.32 to 11.6 for a little more fueling headroom. I will just say that the 2867R is an incredible turbo.

Attached is my latest log and VD from the log.


http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1401538832

2011speed 05-31-2014 05:37 AM

This is gonna come in handy

shaneski 05-31-2014 07:50 PM

With the E85 in it crank that timing up hehe.

brainiac5572 10-02-2014 09:18 AM

First post... thanks for the writeup and pics. I'm planning to order gtx2867 soon and get Stratified. I'm dreading the install but, wtf, if bleekas like you can do it :biggrin:

Update... 4/5/2016... upgraded in march 2015... install took all weekend (took off accessories and DP/GTX most of Saturday, put it all back together most of Sunday)... spent waaay too much time looking for sockets and wrenches (I gotta get more organized)... nothing was horrific, but it was a pain in the ass at times (like the Cobb DP that goes in real easy only once you orient it correctly)... I did ask the wife to help me with turbo (I held turbo from below and she threaded a screw from above to hold it in place)... she said WTF are you doing to the new car (oh well)... I said a little prayer before starting the car cause I wasn't sure if I put it all back together correctly (all the supporting mods, hose rerouting for intake/BPV/3 port EBCS/guardian angel...)... it started up and I started the tuning process with Stratified... have had e85 tune for @ 9 months and @15K miles... I couldn't be happier... have @370/380 WHP/WTQ... traction in first 2 gears and torque steering in 3/4 gears are the biggest issues now, so I try not to WOT in 1st, I try let off early and not redline in 2nd, and hold onto steering wheel in 3rd/4th (you get sorta used to it, but it still surprises me if I'm not paying attention)... I've never taken car to the drag strip but I can say it's @ as fast as current generation Camaro SS and Ford Mustang GT's (highway rolling, not from a dig cause no traction)... I can only say good things about Stratified Auto, EdgeAutoSport, JBR, Corksport, Cobb, and Synapse.

Yousuf 10-02-2014 02:48 PM

Like everyone else already said, great write up! Thanks man

econman 10-02-2014 02:53 PM

Thanks! The install isn't too bad - just take your time and it'll go well

Mastertrixter 10-04-2014 11:55 PM

This is an awesome write up. Noted for my forthcoming bnr install

shamie 10-05-2014 02:59 PM

Good write up! I just put my 2867 in this weekend. I decided to just drain the coolant first after looking at all the install threads and how much they caught around the turbo. I also left the EM on and just removed the EGR. It was a tight squeeze and a little pain doing it alone but I got it in. I also was able to just push the DP to the side. I put the studs in the turbo after I got it in place - made for a lot more room.

As far as calling the ATP a bolt on kit I guess they are technically correct - everything does bolt right up. But man everything other than the EM & DP fought me every step of the way. It took me 4 hours to get that fucking oil feed line attached! Another set of hands probably would have cut that time drastically. I guess I was expecting it to go on like a Corksport intake or something. I also had to move the WG as it was hitting the firewall heat shield as delivered. That entailed setting the preload again...

Now I'm just working the tune with the new intake and ECBS. Hitting and holding (finally) my boost targets but lots of tweaking to go.

Sorry to thread jack but I thought some of my experiences would be helpful.

faeker 10-05-2014 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mastertrixter (Post 2718522)
This is an awesome write up. Noted for my forthcoming bnr install

just a heads up; look up ziggo's bnr install thread. he goes into great detail about it.

econman 10-05-2014 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shamie (Post 2718851)
Good write up! I just put my 2867 in this weekend. I decided to just drain the coolant first after looking at all the install threads and how much they caught around the turbo. I also left the EM on and just removed the EGR. It was a tight squeeze and a little pain doing it alone but I got it in. I also was able to just push the DP to the side. I put the studs in the turbo after I got it in place - made for a lot more room.

As far as calling the ATP a bolt on kit I guess they are technically correct - everything does bolt right up. But man everything other than the EM & DP fought me every step of the way. It took me 4 hours to get that fucking oil feed line attached! Another set of hands probably would have cut that time drastically. I guess I was expecting it to go on like a Corksport intake or something. I also had to move the WG as it was hitting the firewall heat shield as delivered. That entailed setting the preload again...

Now I'm just working the tune with the new intake and ECBS. Hitting and holding (finally) my boost targets but lots of tweaking to go.

Sorry to thread jack but I thought some of my experiences would be helpful.

How did draining the coolant work out for you? Was it relatively mess free when you removed the EGR and coolant lines from the turbo?

shamie 10-06-2014 06:53 AM

The EGR was mess free but the coolant return still had some in it (as did my face!). Probably a cup or so was all.

shamie 10-06-2014 04:19 PM

2 Attachment(s)
It was also asked how/what did I do to relocate the WG (actuator actually).

I loosened the two bolts holding the WG actuator bracket to the cold side (top bolt circled - you can find the other one) and rotated the whole assembly down. It gave me about a 1/2" of clearance. Then I set the preload using this thread -> http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ad-iwg-134187/. I had to lengthen the distance between the standoff and the WG attachment part of the rod. I secured that extended portion with loctite and by galling the threads some. Seemed like that was my only option other than taking the bracket off and machining new holes to locate the WG actautor closer to the cold side. All in all just another thing that fought me on this 1.5 day install.

drogahnus 10-06-2014 04:41 PM

Cheers, man. I may just stick something between (maybe heat wrap) the WG and heat shield for now. No performance impact, just a slight rattle in low RPMs.

tbutts333 11-13-2014 10:04 AM

This helped out so much thank yoU!!!! Im currently changing out the turbo on my girlfriends speed 3 (she blew it and got it rebuilt from tubrorepair.com) I own a STI so new to this mazda, so my question is do you have to replace the oil feed line? the company that rebuilt it says you do, but it looks fine and so i just want to double check before I start taking off the alternator and what not... Thanks guys

JSmith 11-13-2014 10:10 AM

I didn't replace the oil feed line. As long as its clear of debris I don't see the reasoning behind replacing.

Have you looked around to see the other basic modifications for speeds?

tbutts333 11-13-2014 10:16 AM

Thnaks Jsmith, I have looked around a little bit, but unfortunately i havent been able to find much, i followed this forum to take the turbo out...now its time to put it back in and i just want to make sure nothing is gonna get screwed up.


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