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 Old 08-29-2017, 12:09 PM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by flyhigh View Post
What kind of pads are you using? I know "Track-use only" pads can run through rotors fairly quickly, but daaaaamn! My OEM rotors lasted 40k miles and I hope the Centrics will do better. I'm running the red stuffs because DD. I'm definitely going to me monitoring more closely now with that piece of info.
Yeah, I'm beginning to think it might be hub/bearing related because it seems crazy how quickly they warp. I run EBC yellows which are a little more aggressive but not quite track only or anything. I'll shut up now, don't want to derail your thread.
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 Old 08-29-2017, 12:20 PM   #82
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Next step: add meth.
That was the plan, but my CM system needs work. I'll be doing E-30 first, then adding the meth once its wired properly.
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 Old 08-30-2017, 09:03 AM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by andale927 View Post
Yeah, I'm beginning to think it might be hub/bearing related because it seems crazy how quickly they warp. I run EBC yellows which are a little more aggressive but not quite track only or anything. I'll shut up now, don't want to derail your thread.
I run HP+ race pads, (noisy, dusty but agressive) And it seem my rotor wear out quicker than the pad itself....Not warped at all after few years of abuse on the street. Sometimes i even hold the brakes to make a longer log in third gear until it smell lol.
Only bad side, watch your rear end in traffic, i got bumped yesterday but my hitch protected the car
All that to say, you probably have something wrong to warp yours.
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 Old 09-18-2017, 05:37 PM   #84
 
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So the 93 octane tune is now complete. WMI is still inop, so it's on to Ethanol for now. I'm going with a E-30 per Stratified's recommendations. I couldn't get any grip on the wet roads today and can't wait to get it out on a dry road tomorrow.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20170918_133349.jpg (3.55 MB, 12 views)
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 Old 09-19-2017, 05:23 AM   #85
 
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Btw how much is your fuel at this time? Was the price affected by Harvey/Irma?
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 Old 09-19-2017, 06:15 AM   #86
 
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IRMA-GERD YES. E was $1.99 pre-Harvey and now after Irma it's $2.59. 93 was $2.3x and now $3.2x
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 Old 09-19-2017, 09:15 AM   #87
 
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Ok thanks, About the same increase up here.
1.0x/liter to 1.3-1.4/liter for 87 and now settle down to 1.2/l...
Sorry to be offtopic but as you pictured a gaz pump i was curious!...
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 Old 09-19-2017, 09:48 AM   #88
 
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Here's a log of a 4th gear WOT run on just the base map for E-30.
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 Old 09-19-2017, 10:29 AM   #89
 
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Is it fine to have injector duty above 100% ?
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 Old 09-19-2017, 11:06 AM   #90
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Is it fine to have injector duty above 100% ?
Yeah, as long as it's not too much above 100%, like 108-110%. Above 100% it means that they injectors are spraying during the power cycle as well after staying on during the intake and compression stroke.

By looking at the logs I see how much more efficient WMI is. However, pairing an E mix with an additional port injector (or 2) will result in a lot of awesome stuff.
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 Old 09-16-2018, 10:14 AM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post

At 400 crank HP even with meth injection the ringlands of the factory pistons are on borrowed time. You can run the factory engine until you crack ringlands and rebuild from there, but don't aim for 400hp and hope for the best simply because these pistons cannot handle the heat of 400cp for too long. of course it also depends on how often you ask for those 400hp and for how long.
It seems this may have happened...

93, E30, 93 w/WMI tunes are done. Working on E48 w/ WMI currently.
After a few WOTs to complete the 93 WMI tune there was oil comming from the vent of the OCC. Oil level looked low, so I added some to get it back in the correct range. After this, the exhaust started smoking, not terribly, but smoking. When the A/C cycled on, the smoke was bad. I took it in to the mechanic and could not duplicate the issue. He did a test on the coolant and said everything looked as it should, no bubbles, no carbon. Coolant temps even at idle for 20 minutes in 88* never got over 206*

Everything seemed fine for a couple weeks. I moved on to the E48 WMI tune and after a couple WOTs the oil was back under the OCC the next morning. Took the car to work carefully and let it run in the parking lot for a bit. There was a little bit of smoke at idle (blue). When the A/C kicked on it blew a ton of smoke. A/C off and smoke all but stopped. Took it back to the mechanic who now thinks it's either valve seals, piston rings, or the turbo. There is a lot of pressure in the crankcase as evidenced by the oil blowing out of the OCC and an oily VVT plug thingy.

I should note that I did not pay for the mechanic to look at the car. I just caught him before work to demonstrate the smoking and ask some questions. He's cool like that.

Besides the smoking, the car runs great. No noticeable power loss at all, but v-dyno shows me making more power on the E30 tune than I'm making now on E48 and WMI (that tune was back in March, so it was much cooler temps). The tuner looked back through my logs and found nothing wrong. I've asked around and not even the Mazda mechanic has seen pluming exhaust smoke caused by A/C.

I'll be doing a compression test and attempting a leak down test tomorrow.
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 Old 09-16-2018, 07:56 PM   #92
 
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Originally Posted by flyhigh View Post
I'll be doing a compression test and attempting a leak down test tomorrow.
I'm sorry to hear what you're going through, but at this point based on the symptoms hopefully it's just the turbo which started spewing oil because it gets it in excess and can't handle it any more. We'll see...
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 Old 09-16-2018, 11:30 PM   #93
 
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I was pluming smoke out the back, too. Three different mechanics told me I blew a head gasket. It turned out to be a clogged OCC hose. I pulled it off, blew into it, shot out a bunch of garbage, and it was fine after that. I went dual OCC after that due to the crank case pressure issues I was seeing and the hose I was using (Corksport silicone hose) was utter shit and just flexed too much. I will only ever use reinforced rubber hose after that. Good luck on your issues.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 07:15 AM   #94
 
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From my experience, that look like ringland failure...a compression test will validate this

I had to rebuild my engine 2 times because of ringland failure of the OEM pistons...I was running 32-33psi of boost with 1060cc/min of meth and 17 degree timing at redline (with Eagles rods of course)

Even with no crazy KR, the OEM pistons dont live long with this kind of power
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/2oerkpUpbWq9XJdq6

Compresion #'s
145
148
150
149

Leak down gauge seems busted, but all cylinders leak in to other cylinders. no leaks at exhaust or dip stick.

Pulling the TIP now to inspect the turbo.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 01:12 PM   #96
 
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turbo looks okay, right?? Way more oil everywhere else...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mJTrq2GQEMXAUi9x8
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 Old 09-17-2018, 01:17 PM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by flyhigh View Post
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2oerkpUpbWq9XJdq6

Compresion #'s
145
148
150
149

Leak down gauge seems busted, but all cylinders leak in to other cylinders. no leaks at exhaust or dip stick.

Pulling the TIP now to inspect the turbo.

Um... cylinders leaking into other cylinders would be a head gasket failure.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:38 PM   #98
 
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A major one actually.
How's the coolant? Does it have any traces of oil or soot/exhaust stuff in it?
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 Old 09-18-2018, 07:37 AM   #99
 
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can it have valves opens or leaking in more than 1 cylinders at time of test and air return by manifolds ? Leaking gasket isn't common for these engines.
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 Old 09-18-2018, 07:50 AM   #100
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
can it have valves opens or leaking in more than 1 cylinders at time of test and air return by manifolds ? Leaking gasket isn't common for these engines.

^This. Are you sure you tested at TDC for all the cylinders? Easy way to tell is to pull the spark plugs and put the longest screwdriver you have into the spark plug hole and rotate the engine by hand with a 21mm socket until it rises all the way up and stops. Cyls 1 and 4 should be at TDC when the hole in the crank pulley is directly below the pulley bolt and aligns with the bolt hole in the timing cover, Cyls 2 and 3 should be at TDC when the bolt hole is directly above the pulley bolt at 180 degrees from the other spot.


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 Old 09-18-2018, 11:39 AM   #101
 
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Thanks guys.
Coolant looks good, no carbon or bubbles in the tank.
I did my best to make sure each cylinder was TDC for the leak down. Even cycled through twice to ensure it was on the compression stroke (same results for each test on each cylinder)
Tuner and some others think the smoke could be a PCV issue, so just ordered one from DM. Oil on the plug is likely from a leaky valve seal. OCC being fully vented could also be a problem. One step at a time, as I was kindly reminded.
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