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 Old 09-02-2017, 08:00 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by VoodooJef View Post
No, no...please....turn my build thread into a junkyard find thread. LOL.
A unique way to keep a thread alive between updates. You mentioned getting a beater. The only person to blame for this debacle is you.
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
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Other rides:
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-02-2017, 08:04 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
The only person to blame for this debacle is you.

Carry on.....
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 Old 09-02-2017, 03:51 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by VoodooJef View Post
Carry on.....
Back on topic, did you end up going with the 4032 mahles? And where did you get them. The only 4032s I'm seeing are the sp63 and supertechs from edge

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 Old 09-02-2017, 04:29 PM   #44
 
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Originally Posted by voodoo2crue View Post
Back on topic, did you end up going with the 4032 mahles?
According to Post #1 : indeed he did.
But I can see it could be read differently the way it was written.
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-04-2017, 08:06 AM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by voodoo2crue View Post
Back on topic, did you end up going with the 4032 mahles? And where did you get them. The only 4032s I'm seeing are the sp63 and supertechs from edge

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Mahle makes them for sp63. Like they might as well have been drop shipped. They showed up in a mahle box with all of the mahle paperwork, mahle shipping label.
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 Old 09-04-2017, 09:26 AM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by VoodooJef View Post
Mahle makes them for sp63. Like they might as well have been drop shipped. They showed up in a mahle box with all of the mahle paperwork, mahle shipping label.
Thanks for the clarification, I looked at the mahle website and see they offer a 4032 but couldn't find it anywhere other than the sp63 version. I'll be joining the 4032 gang real soon. I see supertech makes a version that edge is selling but haven't heard much about it.

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 Old 09-04-2017, 10:44 AM   #47
 
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Like I have said all along, it`s not so much that either alloy is "better" than the other, they just have their own strengths and the 4032s are what I was looking for. If the engine is healthy they`ll both handle pretty well the same power numbers. 2816s have a higher resistance to detonation, which is good if you run shit gas or freakish amounts of boost and insufficient means of cooling the combustion charge. I run E85 and methanol on top of it so detonation really isn`t even in the equation so the drastically increased lifespan of 4032 was a high priority.
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 Old 09-04-2017, 11:18 AM   #48
 
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I would get the rings Pistons wrist pins and bearings epc treated when you do the Pistons

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 Old 09-07-2017, 09:06 PM   #49
 
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picked up my car today. Jesus that was a treat. I'm restricted to mobile posting so I'll save the details. The short version: hooray!
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 Old 09-07-2017, 09:08 PM   #50
 
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I meant WPC treated...
Congrats btw

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 Old 09-07-2017, 09:14 PM   #51
 
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Oh yeah!! Can't wait to do mine. Enjoy!

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 Old 09-10-2017, 06:57 PM   #52
 
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Ok: aside from some mafcal shenanigans it`s running extremely well. Build seems to be solid and I`ve given it the business a time or two just to wake up the hamsters under the hood. Nothing very dramatic as far as performance but it`s still on spring pressure until the maf gets sorted. The clutch is ridiculous. Grabby as f*** but not unruly.
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 Old 09-10-2017, 07:04 PM   #53
 
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Was the engine already broken in

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 Old 09-10-2017, 07:33 PM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by tmillner View Post
Was the engine already broken in

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Yep. A three hour dyno break in procedure that gets the motor ready for full tuning right away. Had I wanted them to tune it I could have gotten it back the same day fully dyno tuned but for several reasons I opted not to have them tune it. I did consider it, though. A local buddy had the same shop do his that way and it ripped from the day he picked it up.
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 Old 09-17-2017, 11:42 AM   #55
 
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First oil change today. I was not ok with leaving the break in oil in there for long but the builder said give it 10 days or so. Not that I expected anything less, but the oil that came out was clean and clear (technically it's the second batch of oil as it was changed immediately after the break in) Took a sample to send to Blackstone just for baseline reference. Installed an oil pressure gauge while I was at it. After a short trip to the store she's getting about 25psi at idle and 60 under a bit of throttle, 80 if I'm leaning on it.

So far it's looking solid. 750 miles or so and nary a peep out of it.
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 Old 09-17-2017, 01:14 PM   #56
 
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Glad to hear it's running well. What oil are you going to run?

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 Old 09-17-2017, 01:27 PM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by voodoo2crue View Post
Glad to hear it's running well. What oil are you going to run?

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I put Valvoline dino 10w30 in this time. After this I'll run Mobile 1 extended protection and probably stick with 10w30. It's supposed to be a 15k mile oil, but I change it at 8k and have been getting great UOA results. The next oil analysis will tell me more but unless there's still excessive wear particles that's the plan.
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 Old 09-17-2017, 03:10 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by VoodooJef View Post
I put Valvoline dino 10w30 in this time. After this I'll run Mobile 1 extended protection and probably stick with 10w30. It's supposed to be a 15k mile oil, but I change it at 8k and have been getting great UOA results. The next oil analysis will tell me more but unless there's still excessive wear particles that's the plan.
For the coming break in, my builder wants to use valvoline vr1 20w50. I thought that was a little heavy but I'm going to go with it. It won't be in there long.

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 Old 09-17-2017, 04:27 PM   #59
 
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It really comes down to bearing clearances. Mine is dead on oem spec so I could conceivably even run 5w30 again. The 10w isn't going to affect much of anything other than maybe cold start oil pressure.
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 Old 09-17-2017, 05:29 PM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by VoodooJef View Post
It really comes down to bearing clearances. Mine is dead on oem spec so I could conceivably even run 5w30 again. The 10w isn't going to affect much of anything other than maybe cold start oil pressure.
Out of curiosity, why would you want to run a heavy oil for break-in?

High weight makes higher oil pressures, but doesnt that mean the fluid is having issues flowing to where it's needed? The tightest tolerances, and quite frankly the only real restriction IMO, is getting into the bearings.
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 Old 09-18-2017, 07:42 AM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Out of curiosity, why would you want to run a heavy oil for break-in?

High weight makes higher oil pressures, but doesnt that mean the fluid is having issues flowing to where it's needed? The tightest tolerances, and quite frankly the only real restriction IMO, is getting into the bearings.
I broke mine in on 10w30, not a heavy oil by any standard. The 20w50 Crue's builder recommended is a little curious. Heavy oils have a higher resistance to shearing forces but that's not really a big issue in a proper build. The only real shear points in there are rings on cylinder walls, and the single most important part of a break in is making sure the rings grind on the walls to seat them well. There has been a practice over the years of running a "loose" bottom end for high revving engines. It involves turning the crank an extra thousandth (give or take, not quoting actual numbers there) and running a thicker oil in those cases. Lots of subaru builders do it. I'm not a fan, especially on a DD.
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 Old 09-18-2017, 07:55 AM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by VoodooJef View Post
I broke mine in on 10w30, not a heavy oil by any standard. The 20w50 Crue's builder recommended is a little curious. Heavy oils have a higher resistance to shearing forces but that's not really a big issue in a proper build. The only real shear points in there are rings on cylinder walls, and the single most important part of a break in is making sure the rings grind on the walls to seat them well. There has been a practice over the years of running a "loose" bottom end for high revving engines. It involves turning the crank an extra thousandth (give or take, not quoting actual numbers there) and running a thicker oil in those cases. Lots of subaru builders do it. I'm not a fan, especially on a DD.
Totally agree with you on the "curious" remark. Although I went ahead and provided the builder with the oil he recommended, I'll be dumping it after 100 miles and going with a 10w30. I'm kinda leaning toward the RP 10w30.
https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-...sed+SAE+10W-30
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 Old 09-18-2017, 08:23 AM   #63
 
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We used Motul high zinc break in specific oil on mine. Builder said I could go a month on it and I thought "yeah, I trust that like a fart after mexican buffet". RP does seem to be popular for sure. Given how well the Mob 1 extended has done for me I'm inclined to keep using it until a UOA comes back with a reason not to. Blackstone as well as Bob the Oil Guy have gone on record to say that at the end of the day oil is oil and none of them test any better than another. I'm sure we all have our own favorites but I wonder how different they really are....
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 Old 09-21-2017, 05:02 PM   #64
 
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So, the latest...

I said I was going to have some help from one of our established tuners. Didn't happen. Rather than sit on my ass, I set out to familiarize myself with the software and started tuning it my damn self. A couple of steps in the learning curve and a cautious approached has me sitting right under 400whp, mafcal is perfect and scaled for methanol, and only at 19psi or so. I'll start upping the load targets and bringing up boost until either (a) I hit my goal or (b) I run out of fuel. I should hit 460whp around 28psi. Load tuning was aggravating and foreign at first, seeming ridiculous and tedious to get anywhere but now that I am familiar with the process I see the value in it. Not to mention the pride in doing it myself. It's pretty quick already, easily handling a feisty M4 earlier (they're not very fast but I'm also hardly turned up the wick, too). I've got about a thousand miles on the motor now and she seems to be holding together like a champ.
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 Old 09-23-2017, 08:53 AM   #65
 
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Vdyno has since given me 440, 444, 471, and 457. Vdyno is by no means
gospel but the logs imply 440 is in the ballpark. I've got some minor tweaking to do then I'll get her on the rollers. I'm admittedly proud of myself for the way it's running. Very smooth and mild mannered while part throttle, turns into a fire breathing beast of fury at wot and still what could be considered a moderate tune, even mild considering the forged motor and head work (not ported, just new valve seats, guides, springs, etc).
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