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 Old 12-04-2018, 11:13 PM   #1
 
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Default 06 MS6 Build - Advice Welcome

SP63 new OEM Long Block Stage 1
Autotech Hi-Volume Fuel Pump Upgrade Kit
JBR Rear Motor Mount 80A (moving to Damond for reduced NVH)
Mazda OEM Spin-On Conversion Kit
Bosch 3 Bar TMap Map Sensor with IAT
ATP Turbo Downpipe with high flow cat
Cobb Tuning AccessPort V3
Mazda OEM Oil Strainer Tube
BNR S4 Turbo Kit
Grimmspeed EBCS Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2007
3" intake of some sort
LUK clutch and resurface the dual mass flywheel or buy new. (I've read a resurfacing of dual mass will not last long? I want dual mass to retain the oem feel.)
Damond OCC

Tuned by SP63 guys or Freektune

new PCV valve, belts, rebuilt starter and alternator
new oils all around
New spark plugs, but what kind should i use?
Do i need a after market BOV/bypass with this set-up?

I am building for improved performer but a daily driver and long term driver
100K on the chassis

What key ingredients am i missing, to start with and then perhaps add later?
thanks

Last edited by Whitebullet; 12-04-2018 at 11:34 PM.
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 Old 12-05-2018, 09:32 AM   #2
 
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You need both rear diff mounts.

Dont bother with the dual mass flywheel, the fidanza part is much cheaper, and I didn't notice any difference in NVH from the OEM.

If you dont already have the AP, buy Versatune instead. They're still actively working on our software, unlike Cobb.
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Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks

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ST manifold w/ port injection : Raduim Engineering PCV Plate : Radium Engineering PCV valve : Radium Engineering Fuel filter : Aeromotive FPR : DCR VVT : TI Automotive F90000274 Fuel Pump : NX 15718 : Split Second AIC

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 Old 12-06-2018, 09:53 AM   #3
 
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You can get an heavier aftermarket flywheel from ACT that will keep traffic driving easier but the problem will be the disk. To hold s4 potential, (450+ pound of torque) you may need a ceramic multi pucks disc and this one can changes the feeling more than the flywheel it self. You can't have the best of both world unless you get an expensive twin or multidisk clutch kit and reviews about the availaible ones wasn't the greatest ever...
The pedal will also get harder with a stronger PP.

SP63 stage one claim to come with 4032 pistons that is the perfect choice for dayly driving but i would personally pay for a keyed crankshaft option for peace of mind there.

You miss a fmic in your list.

A bov isn't working good with these engine, the oem BPV could leak out of the plastic case but it isn't a big deal it can run with it without any real problems but a metal one remain better as long as it isn't the chineese one comming with a fmic kit.

I would go with a larger intake right a way as 3'' is the minimum but you can get benefit from running a 3.5 with a special battery tray or relocating ECU etc...

You would need a base tune as the setup won't work above iddle on stock tune with the map and intake difference.
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 Old 12-06-2018, 10:20 AM   #4
 
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by the way, starter and alt. doesn't need rebuild if it is still working fine, it may get worse if rebuild with chineese parts...

but you may need new iddler and belt tensionner, i would also check the AC clutch bearing once at it.
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...
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 Old 12-06-2018, 10:37 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Whitebullet View Post
SP63 new OEM Long Block Stage 1
Autotech Hi-Volume Fuel Pump Upgrade Kit
JBR Rear Motor Mount 80A (moving to Damond for reduced NVH)
Mazda OEM Spin-On Conversion Kit
Bosch 3 Bar TMap Map Sensor with IAT
ATP Turbo Downpipe with high flow cat
Cobb Tuning AccessPort V3
Mazda OEM Oil Strainer Tube
BNR S4 Turbo Kit
Grimmspeed EBCS Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2007
3" intake of some sort
LUK clutch and resurface the dual mass flywheel or buy new. (I've read a resurfacing of dual mass will not last long? I want dual mass to retain the oem feel.)
Damond OCC

Tuned by SP63 guys or Freektune

new PCV valve, belts, rebuilt starter and alternator
new oils all around
New spark plugs, but what kind should i use?
Do i need a after market BOV/bypass with this set-up?

I am building for improved performer but a daily driver and long term driver
100K on the chassis

What key ingredients am i missing, to start with and then perhaps add later?
thanks
Get to reading. Tons of build information on this site. All the questions you are asking have been answered tons of times.

If you go with the suggested HTP 3.5" intake locate your battery in the trunk. Those smaller batteries IMHO just don't have enough CCA to warrant their use. YMMV.
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