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 Old 11-15-2017, 09:42 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Noooo donít use anything a wiseco uses. Itís totally different alloys. I spoke with mahle (company who makes those pistons for SP) and I believe they recommended .025 for clearance.
But in the thread here Let's Talk About Forged Piston Alloys there is confusion between if the SP63 4032s are made by Wiseco or by Mahle. Post #113 seems to show that the 4032s are made by Wiseco. I want to make sure I am using the right spec. I also sent an email to SpeedPerf6rmanc3 and hope they can shed some light on this issue.
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 Old 11-15-2017, 09:47 AM   #42
 
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I can assure you it’s mahle. I spoke with SP out this and the person at mahle who helped design them.
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 Old 11-15-2017, 10:43 AM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
I can assure you itís mahle. I spoke with SP out this and the person at mahle who helped design them.
Got you. Thank you. And SP63 does not provide a spec sheet with each set?
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 Old 11-15-2017, 11:04 AM   #44
 
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Originally Posted by mindys View Post
Got you. Thank you. And SP63 does not provide a spec sheet with each set?
Iím pretty sure they do.
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

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 Old 11-15-2017, 12:43 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Iím pretty sure they do.
Well I'm going to order the pistons and rods today and we will find out when I get them!
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 Old 11-15-2017, 01:12 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by mindys View Post
What PTW clearances did you run? I saw that a guy posted a Wiseco spec sheet in the thread that I mentioned and said that the his builder used those numbers. Did you use these too?
Maybe it wasn't the right way and I was to a bit too brave assuming that SP63 machined correctly the pistons for 88mm, but I didn't care about PTW clearances. I simply bored to 88mm, filled the rings so that I had a 0.4mm ring end gap (0.16") for #1 and #2 and - IIRC - 0.5mm for the oil rings (0.20") and threw the pistons in.

The PTW clearance check is a must when running 2816 alloy pistons. With 4032 the things are a bit more relaxed because it doesn't expand and contract that much. You can simply rebuild the engine within the factory specs.
Also, if I remember correctly Wiseco was recommending some non-realistic PTW (I think they were too much on the tight side). Anyway even when I used the 88mm pistons of 2816 alloy all was good using the factory specs (except that those pistons hit the oil squirters which was unfortunate, but it's a totally different issue and you will not have this issue with the 4032s).
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 Old 11-15-2017, 11:34 PM   #47
 
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Well here you go, Supertech also supply 4032 pistons..Possibly rebranded Mahles? Can also get them through Edge

Supertech 4032 Forged Pistons Mazdaspeed 3 2007-2013 | Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2007
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 Old 11-22-2017, 05:24 PM   #48
 
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Alright boys, got two questions for you:

1. Since I am overbored to 88mm now, will the stock head gasket still work? Or do I need to go with the Cosmetic Gasket which has a 89mm diameter?

2. The OEM exhaust and intake seals are $5-$6 A PIECE or for the each set? That will be pretty expensive if it's a piece
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 Old 11-22-2017, 11:07 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by mindys View Post
Alright boys, got two questions for you:

1. Since I am overbored to 88mm now, will the stock head gasket still work? Or do I need to go with the Cosmetic Gasket which has a 89mm diameter?
OEM head gasket is just fine.

Originally Posted by mindys View Post
2. The OEM exhaust and intake seals are $5-$6 A PIECE or for the each set? That will be pretty expensive if it's a piece
$6 a piece.
You should seriously consider an OEM gasket kit instead of purchasing all the gaskets individually. For about $350 you have pretty much all the gaskets you need, out of which only the rear main seal, head gasket, ex mani gasket and some gasket between the turbo and DP purchased individually exceed this amount by quite a bit.
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Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
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SP63 87.5mm 4032 9.5:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, Clevite AL main bearings, King rod bearings, CP-e safe seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

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 Old 11-23-2017, 09:40 AM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
OEM head gasket is just fine.



$6 a piece.
You should seriously consider an OEM gasket kit instead of purchasing all the gaskets individually. For about $350 you have pretty much all the gaskets you need, out of which only the rear main seal, head gasket, ex mani gasket and some gasket between the turbo and DP purchased individually exceed this amount by quite a bit.
Yeah I'm trying to figure out what would be the better way to get everything. Buying parts individually from Tasca is cheaper than from Edge, but with the sale going on now I might just buy the Stage 1 kit.
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 Old 11-24-2017, 07:52 AM   #51
 
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So what is the recommended piston? Mahle or Manley? I was looking into Manley for my build seeing as I'm going with their H-Beam rods. I'm not looking to make 700 HP, just dont want this thing to explode again. 300ish HP is just fine with me.
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 Old 11-24-2017, 05:17 PM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
So what is the recommended piston? Mahle or Manley? I was looking into Manley for my build seeing as I'm going with their H-Beam rods. I'm not looking to make 700 HP, just dont want this thing to explode again. 300ish HP is just fine with me.
I just went with the SP63 4032 pistons and Manley H-beams.
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 Old 11-26-2017, 01:45 AM   #53
 
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Just as a side note, the custom 4032 pistons from SP63 are also Manley. So your combo is basically a Manley piston + Manley rod Those $350 Manley rods are perfect for up to like 650bhp.
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Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
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 Old 11-26-2017, 09:48 AM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Just as a side note, the custom 4032 pistons from SP63 are also Manley. So your combo is basically a Manley piston + Manley rod Those $350 Manley rods are perfect for up to like 650bhp.
Those are actually mahle not Manley. Iíve spoken with one of the engineers at mahle about them.
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 11-27-2017, 04:45 AM   #55
 
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What (in any) are the pro/cons between the two?
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Soon: CS HPFP line, fix oil leak from turbo return line and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
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 Old 11-27-2017, 05:08 AM   #56
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
What (in any) are the pro/cons between the two?
Let's Talk About Forged Piston Alloys
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 11-29-2017, 07:26 PM   #57
 
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Hey all,

I measured up my head and main bolts. The manual states:

Head bolts: standard 5.86-5.90, 5.92 max (inches); I measured all ten 5.710 with a range of +.007/-.002

Main bolts: standard 4.33-4.35, 4.38 max (inches); I measured all ten 4.110 with a range of +.002/-.006

All of mine are too short. I double checked the manual and these are the only lengths they provide (and this is a manual that includes the MZR L3-VDT). I was measuring the correct area (bottom of bolt up to the shoulder of the head) and my dial calipers are definitely correct (calibrated every 1 year). Anyone have any different values for the standard length of these bolts or am I just missing something?

Otherwise, just waiting for all the seals and other stuff to come in to start reassembling the engine again!
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 Old 12-06-2017, 05:34 PM   #58
 
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Well, became VIP and got all the info needed Seems like the head bolts are good. Main bolt sizes are not mentioned in the L3 with TC manual.

Anywho, need to reorder different rod bearings (.25mm oversize) and I'm good to rebuild this thing! I will update as I progress.
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 Old 01-17-2018, 05:00 AM   #59
 
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Well, have not updated in a while, and being the holidays I didn't get much done.

So far I have most of the bottom end done (new pistons are installed). I will be reassembling the head and the remaining bottom end soon. So far so good!

Now I am wondering if measuring the piston to valve clearance is needed. I have new OEM cams and OEM head gasket. I am reusing the valves and my head was resurfaced (do not know how much was taken off, but I bet it is very minimal). I am using the SP63 pistons and Manley rods. It would seem that the engine should not have any interference issues assuming that the timing is done correctly. What do you guys think?
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 Old 01-17-2018, 11:18 AM   #60
 
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The head resurfacing doesn't take away any significant amount of material. So absolutely no worries there.
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 Old 02-21-2018, 04:10 PM   #61
 
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Question: anybody know the part number for the cylinder block lower bling plug? It is for the hole you use to place the pin for locking the crankshaft in place when timing the engine. I have been searching diagrams, the forums, even at the dealer today and was not able to get an answer.

The only bolt that I found that may be it is 9XG00-1157L, but I am not completely sure due to the diagram of the block not showing exactly where this bolt goes.

Last edited by mindys; 02-21-2018 at 04:26 PM.
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 Old 02-22-2018, 10:39 AM   #62
 
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I believe the bolt you found is correct.
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 Old 03-21-2018, 04:44 AM   #63
 
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Update:

Yesterday I started the car for the first time. It started immediately and seemed to be running pretty well. Before we started the car, I drained any leftover coolant from the radiator (I guess a bit more of it collected at the bottom of the radiator over the last 6 months) and filled the radiator and overflow with Zerex. The car got up to operating temperature, but the coolant in the reservoir did not start going down. The temp gauge started going towards the H, so I shut the car off. When I did so, pressure and a bit of coolant started coming out of the radiator cap (started boiling).

Now my question is what is the problem. I did not replace my thermostat (stupid of me) and also there should be air in the cooling system since the engine was reassembled and placed back into the car, so any air that was stuck in the cooling passages should still be there. I could try to burp the system by leaving the radiator cap off and allowing the engine to reach operating temps, but I doubt that will solve the issue. I think the best solution right now would be replacing the thermostat. What do you guys think?
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 Old 03-21-2018, 06:50 AM   #64
 
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Run it without the cap up to operating temp. Let it circulate. Add as needed while it's running. Once it's full, put the cap on and rev it a few times or take it up the street. Getting the pump revved up can dislodge some air bubbles. Shut it down and wait a few minutes. Put a towel over the cap and SLOWLY open it up. Hopefully just air will come out. Top it off and put cap back on. Make sure the bottle is at the appropriate level for HOT. You should be good to go. Keep a bottle of water or 50/50 handy and check the overflow bottle BEFORE each drive, when cold, and fill to the COLD line. If you don't have to add any, you're done.
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 Old 03-21-2018, 07:27 AM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Run it without the cap up to operating temp. Let it circulate. Add as needed while it's running. Once it's full, put the cap on and rev it a few times or take it up the street. Getting the pump revved up can dislodge some air bubbles. Shut it down and wait a few minutes. Put a towel over the cap and SLOWLY open it up. Hopefully just air will come out. Top it off and put cap back on. Make sure the bottle is at the appropriate level for HOT. You should be good to go. Keep a bottle of water or 50/50 handy and check the overflow bottle BEFORE each drive, when cold, and fill to the COLD line. If you don't have to add any, you're done.
Will do that later today. If my overflow is not going down, it most likely points to the thermostat not opening, correct?
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 Old 03-21-2018, 07:30 AM   #66
 
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If you're coolant system is HOT and your bottle is at a certain level, and you check it later when it's cold and the bottle level hasn't changed, then I'd venture to guess your radiator cap is bad.
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 Old 03-21-2018, 04:34 PM   #67
 
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So we are looking at the car now. We ran the car without the radiator cap. Got it up to temp and it burped a few times through the radiator. My buddy was putting in a bit of coolant as we went. Temperature was fluctuating around the mid point (would rise a bit above the halfway point, then drop down to around midway point). I had the heater maxed and it was blowing cold air. Overflow tank level did not change during all this. The fans did kick on. Car ran about 10-15 minutes.

Last thing, the top radiator hose (coming from the engine into the rad) was hot, the hose from the bottom of the rad to the thermostat was cold. So I would assume thermostat should be my next attempt?
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 Old 03-21-2018, 05:05 PM   #68
 
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If the top hose is hot, then there should be coolant flowing through it. If there is coolant flow, then the thermostat should be open.
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 Old 03-21-2018, 07:19 PM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by mindys View Post
Update:

Yesterday I started the car for the first time. It started immediately and seemed to be running pretty well. Before we started the car, I drained any leftover coolant from the radiator (I guess a bit more of it collected at the bottom of the radiator over the last 6 months) and filled the radiator and overflow with Zerex. The car got up to operating temperature, but the coolant in the reservoir did not start going down. The temp gauge started going towards the H, so I shut the car off. When I did so, pressure and a bit of coolant started coming out of the radiator cap (started boiling).

Now my question is what is the problem. I did not replace my thermostat (stupid of me) and also there should be air in the cooling system since the engine was reassembled and placed back into the car, so any air that was stuck in the cooling passages should still be there. I could try to burp the system by leaving the radiator cap off and allowing the engine to reach operating temps, but I doubt that will solve the issue. I think the best solution right now would be replacing the thermostat. What do you guys think?
Congrats on firing it up! I just ordered mine (engine SP63) and hope to start my process in a month or 2.
Did you pull the engine from the top or bottom?
Good luck getting the bugs worked out.
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 Old 03-21-2018, 07:43 PM   #70
 
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I pulled mine out the top for clutch change. Will do it that way again this year for engine change.
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
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 Old 03-21-2018, 08:16 PM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
If the top hose is hot, then there should be coolant flowing through it. If there is coolant flow, then the thermostat should be open.
Yeah, we checked the thermostat by taking it out and putting it in boiling water and it opened at the proper temps. We also ran some coolant through the radiator, and it drained out the bottom hole no problem. So we know that is all good. We now tipped the car so that the front is higher than the rear. Topped off the radiator and the overflow (to FULL). This is what we will do tomorrow (or when I can get to it):

1. Remove the rad cap. Run the car to proper temp.
2. Allow the coolant to circulate. Fill as necessary.
3. Once coolant in the rad is not longer going down, we will place the cap back on and rev it a few times or drive it (like you suggested).
4. Park it, let it cool off.
5. Come back, twist the rad cap off slowly with a towel over it. Top off the rad.
6. Continue checking the overflow for proper level.

Quick questions:

1. When we were running without the cap, steam and coolant started spraying out of the filling neck as if it was boiling? I assume this should have happened and we should have had the cap back on before this point?

2. When you mean levels for HOT and COLD, I assume that it should be near FULL on the overflow when engine is cold and nearer the LOW when hot?

Thanks for your help man.

Originally Posted by MS6/CX-9 View Post
Congrats on firing it up! I just ordered mine (engine SP63) and hope to start my process in a month or 2.
Did you pull the engine from the top or bottom?
Good luck getting the bugs worked out.
Thank you, man! Yes, pulled it from the top. It will be very tight if you put the engine/trans/transfer case as one unit, so make sure you do not have anything attached to the intake side of the engine (intake manifold, started, oil cooler, AC compressor, or power steering pump). You can have your fuel rail on. Take your time, have a friend with you, and also have a load leveler. Will make it easier to maneuver the engine around in the car. Good luck!
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 Old 03-21-2018, 08:21 PM   #72
 
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If you remove the radiator cap when it's cold, you won't need to use a towel or rag.

I won't go into detail on how each component of the cooling system works. You should really google that to get a better understanding on what's happening and how the components work together.
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
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 Old 03-21-2018, 08:27 PM   #73
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
If you remove the radiator cap when it's cold, you won't need to use a towel or rag.

I won't go into detail on how each component of the cooling system works. You should really google that to get a better understanding on what's happening and how the components work together.
Definitely been looking around all over Google and reading up on the cooling system. Will keep on doing that.
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 Old 03-22-2018, 07:07 PM   #74
 
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Alright boys, cooling is sorted in terms of circulation. I drove the car and coolant did not go above 190 I believe. The weird thing is that the coolant fans did not seem to be running, but it was only a quick drive so maybe they didn't have the chance to do so. Either way, just have to sort out a code P2187 (assume that it is the primary O2 since the thread is messed up on the downpipe and it is not sealing). Hopefully no issue with the fans, too! Thanks for those that helped!
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 Old 03-22-2018, 07:09 PM   #75
 
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Temp fan won't come on until about 215.
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
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 Old 03-22-2018, 07:11 PM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Temp fan won't come on until about 215.
When we were idling the car, I saw the coolant reach 230 F and fans were still not on. The coolant did start dropping in temperature quickly though. Will have to do more testing. Maybe a connector got disconnected or some coolant into it.
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 Old 03-23-2018, 10:54 AM   #77
 
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Don’t know if this was suggested earlier but it could be because you just need to bleed some air out of the system. The thermostat opens with hot liquids not gas. Could be why the fans aren’t engaging.
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 Old 03-23-2018, 11:14 AM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Donít know if this was suggested earlier but it could be because you just need to bleed some air out of the system. The thermostat opens with hot liquids not gas. Could be why the fans arenít engaging.
Maybe, but I believe we should have gotten most of the air out of the system. I'm gonna keep searching and see what it could be. The tstat should have been open because coolant temps were at 190 F when driving around yesterday.
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 Old 03-26-2018, 09:49 AM   #79
 
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Well, cooling seems to be working as it should, but now different issues. Still have code P2187 (Running lean at idle) even with the O2 sensor properly installed with a new (used) stock downpipe. AFR is 17+ at warmed up idle, 25% stft. Will pull apart the intake side of the engine to verify that there are no leaking vacuum hoses. Will also check that the purge valve is not stuck open or close. Will also clean the O2 sensors. I'm thinking the the upstream O2 sensor was damaged from the oil burning that the car had due to failed cylinder 3 rings.

Last issue that is very concerning is that I have a lot of air pulsating coming out of the oil filler neck when the cap is removed and the engine running. I don't seem to have any oil burning (car has only been driven for about 10 miles since the rebuild) and a bit of idling, so this also may mean that the rings have not set properly yet (engine was overbored and honed). Or I may have messed up the cylinder walls.... Don't know, but hoping for the best.
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 Old 03-26-2018, 11:33 AM   #80
 
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Pulsing air with cap off is normal.

+25 trim is trying to bring that 17 AFR back in check, but it's not enough. Serious leak, bad O2, or horrible MAFcal.
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