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 Old 09-19-2016, 12:57 AM   #1
 
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Default 06 MS6 - Stock Block/Internals Build - Pushing The Limits

I'm writing this so I can keep track of everything. And if anybody wants to do the samething and push the limits without going over board. Or just lack of funds to do a full on build... I'll be adding all the details of this build. The good, the bad and the ugly.... So I hope you enjoy the ride as much as i will. I hope this brings proven results for people worried when pushing the limits... This will be a build with some learning experiences along the way....
There will be alot of purchased, maintenance, problems and installed thru out this thread... this is part of the process of preparing the car for the power you plan on pushing. Or simply fixing preexisting problems that came with car that need attention along the way...
I have started a few threads, where I asked questions when I needed help. Those are listed here:

Stock Block, Internals and Turbo Max Hp Safe Extraction Help

Please Help... Having a Alignment Nightmare

Hpfp tick with pressure issues WITH HPFP INTERNALS

So here we go, I'll try and get you up to speed...

-PURCHASED-
I bought the car November 13, 2015. For $7,500. Everything was in working order. But the car had a scratch on the passenger side from right side of hood down the whole right side of car to rear quarter panel. The car came with turbo smart dual port Bov, spectre cai cone, sure 2.6" maf housing,

A Few Pics
20151113_160439.jpg
20151113_160041.jpg


-Maintenance-
I did a tune up(plugs,plug boots,cleaned air filter). I bought oil. But I found oem cartridge oil filter was tread locked on soo well, I couldn't get it off and just got settled in with my new car.. :-)

-ACCIDENT-
November 26, 2015 - It snowed and I got a little frisky in my new ride and slide into curb. Impacting the passenger side front and rear tires. Went into it at a angle so front hit then back smashed into curb. Bearly got it home (i was right around corner) the car got hurt pretty good. Had to replace both rims, both front/rear control arms, front steering knockle and front/rear suspension linkage.

Few pics
{69af4b0a-40da-432c-b52f-ac7fb1bcdf21}.jpg
{429d36fd-4f76-4e96-9c05-02da71ac716d}.jpg


After the car was repaired by progressive's in network auto shop (Caliber collision thornton location)
The car was pulling right. And after taking it back like 3 times. The car still pulls and the last time I took it in. They took it for a test drive and when I got car back it smelled like burnt clutch. I don't normally go to shops I fix things myself. But being a insurance claim i had too... Anyway before I went out to the car, the guy tells me "my car drives nice and like his old evo" And long story short the car still drove but the car started making a metal on metal bang noise when hard take off or shifts (ended up being a warn transmission mount/ that all the suddent took a shit) So I called progressive had them switch shops. And help pay for new transmission mount.

Only got me to another caliber collision location arvada, and they messed around wasting my time. In the end after 4 visits to this location. my car still pulls right and that was alignment #6, the motor mount was replaced(sure motor mount) And my cars transfer case just suddenly quit... out of no where after the last visit. The shop said they weren't at fault and that it was not damage from the accident. I called progressive they said same. And I requested a second opinion from a out of network shop. It only got me a shop that said the transfer case was bad from bad fluid condition and level/Lack of maintenance.. and said the alignment issue needed some adapter. So in the end my car still pulls right. And transfer case is shot....

-MAINTENANCE-
January 7 2016 - I took the car to another shop for a all wheel alignment. And had the transfer case reinspected and car still pulls right and confirmed transfer case is shot. Transfer case fluid was thick and goopy and only a table spoon came out, and metal pieces the size of a finger nail came out. And drive shaft does not move at all while sitting idle or driving.

-PURCHASED-
March 21 2016 -
2 sure motor mounts(Aggressive inserts) (Installed)
Yellow Top Deep Charge battery (Installed)

-ISSUES-
April 1 2016, throw out bearing started making noise

-ACCIDENT-
April 15 2016 - idot in audi tried push me off road to get fast lane i25 north bound around Johnsons corner. Scratched passengers side and dumbass rear ended me when we pulled over. State patrol say both at fault.(I'm in disbelief) (progressive says both at fault because I didn't just let him have lane and slow down) wtf there were people right behind me the reason dude wanted over there was a semi in his lane and he came flying up trying to get around it as I was sitting right there.
Car got scuffed paint passenger door, rear quarter panel and rear bumper.

Few pics
20160414_180001.jpg
20160414_180012.jpg
20160414_180039.jpg
20160414_180024.jpg

-MAINTENANCE-
May 23 2016 -
Tire rotation

-PURCHASED-
02 sensor(Bank 2) (Installed)
Cam shaft position sensor (Installed)

-MAINTENANCE-
June 16 2016 -
Oil filter conversion kit (Installed)
Oil change(royal purple) (Installed)

-ISSUES-
July 7 2016 - new oil cooler's bolt backed itself out letting the gasket fail going down highway, blew oil over the whole underside of the car. Hand to tow home.

-PURCHASED-
Oil cooler gasket (Installed)
Oil(Royal purple) (Installed)

-PURCHASED-
July 21 2016 -
Versatuner (Group buy)(NOT Installed)

-ISSUES-
August 15 2016 - clutch or clutch slave cylinder went out (car drives but getting locked out of gears and clutch is almost to floor when it finally disengages. And Bearly goes into gears. Bearly got it home)(PARKED IT)

-PURCHASED-
August 21 2016 -
Stage 2 daily south bend clutch w/ Lightweight Flywheel(8lbs lighter) (NOT Installed)
Throw out bearing (NOT Installed)
Treadstone Tr6 FMIC Core (NOT Installed)
CX Racing FMIC Piping kit (NOT Installed)
Autotech HPFP (NOT Installed)
JBR 3.5" Tru Wide Flow Intake (NOT Installed)
Speed Daddy 3" Cat-less Downpipe (NOT Installed)
Sure 3" Cat-less race pipe (NOT Installed)
JBR Egr Delete (NOT Installed)

-PURCHASED-
September 7 2016 -
Clutch slave cylinder (NOT Installed)
Stainless steel clutch hose (NOT Installed)
Thermostat (NOT Installed)
Coolant Temp sensor (NOT Installed)
Regular Coolant (NOT Installed)
Front mount oil cooler (NOT Installed)
Transfer case (USED - 130,00 miles) (NOT Installed)

-PURCHASED-
September 17 2016 -
Starter gasket (Mazda 6) (NOT Installed)
Oil filter conversion kit(Mazda 6)(oem oil cooler delete) (Not installed)
Glow shift 3in1 gauge, custom vent triple guage pod (NOT Installed)
Sway bar linkage(driver side) (NOT Installed)

-INSTALL-
September 17 2016 -
Clutch/flywheel kit
Clutch slave cylinder
Stainless steel clutch hose
Thermostat
Coolant Temp sensor
Coolant/flush
Hpfp
Sway bar linkage
Transfer case
Transmission fluid change
Transfer case fluid change

I'll be adding some pics!




Thanks for following!!!
__________________
06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

Last edited by Juschiln19; 11-25-2016 at 01:46 PM.
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 Old 09-19-2016, 03:33 AM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
I'm writing this so I can keep track of everything. And if anybody wants to do the Samething And push the limits without going over board. Or lack of funds to do a full on build... I'll be adding all the details the good, the bad and the ugly.... So Enjoy. I hope this brings proven results for people worried when pushing the limits...

So here we go.

-PURCHASED-
I bought the car November 13, 2015. For $7500. Everything was in working order. But the car had a scratch on passenger side from right side of hood down the whole right side of car to rear quarter panel. The car came with turbo smart dual port Bov, sure cai, sure 2.75" maf housing,

-Maintenance-
did a tune up(plugs,plug boots,cleaned air filter), bought oil but found oem cartridge oil filter was tread locked on so well I couldn't get it off and just got settled in with my new car.. :-)

-ACCIDENT-
November 26, 2015 - snowed and I got a little frisky in my new ride and slide into curb. Impacting the passenger side front and rear tires. Went into it at angle so front hit then back smashed into curb. Bearly got it home (was right around corner) the car got hurt pretty good. Had to replace both rims, both front and rear control arms. Front steering knockle, front and rear suspension linkage.

After the car was repaired by progressive's in network auto shop (Caliber collision thornton location)
The car was pulling right. And after taking it back like 3 times. The car still pulls and the last time I took it in. They took it for a test drive, and when I got car back smelled like burnt clutch. I don't normally go to shops I fix things myself. But being a insurance claim... anyway before I went out to the car, guy tells me my car drives nice and like his old evo. And long story short the ar still drove but the car started making a metal on metal bang noise when hard take off or shifts. So I called progressive had them switch shops. And help pay for new motor mount (source of bang noise)

Only got me to another caliber collision location arvada, and they messed around wasting my time. In the end after 4 visits to this location. my car still pulls right (that was alignment 6), the motor mount was replaced(sure motor mount) And my cars transfer case just suddenly quit out of no where after the last visit. The shop said there weren't at fault and that it was not damage from the accident. I called progressive they said same. And I requested a second opinion from a out of network. Only got me a shop that said the transfer case was bad from bad fluid condition and level.. and said the alignment issue needed some adapter. So in the end my car still pulls right. And transfer case is shot.

-MAINTENANCE-
January 7 2016 - took car to another shop for a all wheel alignment. And had the transfer case reinspected and car still pulls right and confirmed transfer case is shot. fluid was thick and goopy and only a table spoon came out, and metal pieces the size of a finger nail came out. And drive shaft does not move at all.


March 21 2016 - PURCHASED
2 sure motor mounts(Aggressive) (Installed)
Yellow Top Deep Charge battery (Installed)

-ISSUES-
throw out bearing started making noise

-ACCIDENT-
April 15 2016 - idot in audi tried push me off road to get fast lane i25 north bound around Johnsons corner. Scratched passengers side and dumbass rear ended me when we pulled over. State patrol say both at fault.(I'm in disbelief) (progressive says both at fault because I didn't just let him have lane and slow down) wtf there were people right behind me the reason dude wanted over there was a semi in his lane and he came flying up trying to get around it as I was sitting right there.
Car got scuffed paint passenger door, rear quarter panel and rear bumper.

-MAINTENANCE-
May 23 2016 -
Tire rotation

-PURCHASED-
02 sensor(Bank 2) (Installed)
Cam shaft position sensor (Installed)

-MAINTENANCE-
June 16 2016 -
Oil filter conversion kit (Installed)
Oil change(royal purple) (Installed)

-ISSUES-
July 7 2016 - oil cooler bolt backed itself out letting the gasket fail going down highway blew oil over the whole underside of the car. Hand to tow home.

-PURCHASED-
Oil cooler gasket (Installed)
Oil(Royal purple) (Installed)

-PURCHASED-
July 21 2016 -
Versatuner (Group buy)(NOT Installed)

-ISSUES-
August 15 2016 - clutch or clutch slave cylinder went out (car drives but getting locked out of gears and clutch is almost to floor when it finally disengages. And Bearly goes into gears. Bearly got it home)(PARKED IT)


August 21 2016 - PURCHASED
Stage 2 daily south bend clutch w/ Lightweight Flywheel(8lbs lighter) (NOT Installed)
Throw out bearing (NOT Installed)
Treadstone FMIC Core (NOT Installed)
CX Racing FMIC Piping kit (NOT Installed)
Autotech HPFP (NOT Installed)
JBR 3.5" Full Intake (NOT Installed)
Speed Daddy 3" Cat-less Downpipe (NOT Installed)
Sure 3" Cat-less race pipe (NOT Installed)
JBR Egr Delete (NOT Installed)

-PURCHASED-
September 7 2016 -
Clutch slave cylinder (NOT Installed)
Stainless steel clutch hose (NOT Installed)
Thermostat (NOT Installed)
Coolant Temp sensor (NOT Installed)
Regular Coolant (NOT Installed)
Front mount oil cooler (NOT Installed)
Transfer case (USED - 130,00 miles) (NOT Installed)

-PURCHASED-
September 17 2016 -
Starter gasket (Mazda 6) (NOT Installed)
Oil filter conversion kit(Mazda 6)(oem oil cooler delete) (Not installed)
Glow shift 3in1 gauge, custom vent triple guage pod (NOT Installed)
Sway bar linkage(driver side) (NOT Installed)

-INSTALL-
September 17 2016 -
Clutch/flywheel kit
Clutch slave cylinder
Stainless steel clutch hose
Thermostat
Coolant Temp sensor
Coolant/flush
Hpfp
Sway bar linkage
Transfer case
Transmission fluid change
Transfer case fluid change



Thanks for following!!! :-)
Good day JusChilin19. Your second accident sound ah bit like mine....But glad you work on getting it back on the road. Question.....Why you never press the issue with that guy at the Progressive shop who may have cause some of your problems? The one who took it for a fun filled test drive...
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 Old 09-19-2016, 10:34 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by acidplant View Post
Good day JusChilin19. Your second accident sound ah bit like mine....But glad you work on getting it back on the road. Question.....Why you never press the issue with that guy at the Progressive shop who may have cause some of your problems? The one who took it for a fun filled test drive...
I called progressive and talked to the agent assigned to me and dude was acting like I was full of shit.. he had me explain the whole situation like 3 times and kept questioning my "story".

Before this I was paying close attention to the car. where it was. I had my eye on it at all times. But I watched the guy pull it out, so i started grabbing my stuff (drink, putting phone away). I look up and dude was already leaving the parking lot. I was like WTF.. so I went outside and waited for his return. He pulled up to me and I was like "why are you taking my car out?" He said to verify the alignment was correct. I was like "uh ok" (No smell at this point)
He pulls back into garage. I go back inside. The whole time I was there they took it out 4 to 5 times total. I guess I should have stood at door and made him take me with him. My mistake... the last time he pulls it to the front door and tells me my cars ready. While we are walking out the mechanic and some other guy from the garage, start telling me how nice my car is. How good the clutch grabs (guy said it was like his stage 2 he dropped in his evo. And went on to say how he was dropping big money just to keep it on the road. And how well my car drove. He was impressed. The other guy saying the same "cars amazing" How much did I pay. What are my plans. Anyhow It wasn't until I get in the car and start driving. I leave the parking lot and get down like 50 feet and i can smell burnt clutch all the way to the gas station and on the way home. Then the next day I was driving normal not really taking off hard and I would hear a knock like metal on metal. And found my transmission mount the internal rubber piece was shot and what little piece was left was coming out letting it hit. I should have went back on the spot. I know... but I was tired and really just wanted to go home. And I honestly figured, how would I prove he did it and not that I just went around the block and fried the clutch to get a free replacement or some shit. And that's how the progressive guy acted.. pissed me off. Like I'm lying... so yeah after convincing the progressive guy I was telling the truth. I got a new shop and he agreed to replace the stock motor mount. Since I was going to upgrade anyway, so I got him to cover the labor and I'd cover the part. It was the best the dosh was offering... again pissed me off...
So yeah, It was a uphill battle just to get progressive to believe me that any of this happened....

Anyhow I think that's what started the transfer case's way out. It didn't quit right after that, and the second progressive shop had it 5 times so I can't say for sure. But idk...

It just seemed I had to just suck it up and deal. So I did..
__________________
06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

Last edited by Juschiln19; 12-02-2016 at 01:15 PM.
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 Old 09-19-2016, 11:36 AM   #4
 
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Just a few pics of the clutch/flywheel & transfer case install. I did run Into some hickups. The driver side front subframe nut stripped out. After trying everything I could to get it off. I just cut it off with a grinder. Same goes with the driver side sway bar linkage.. the two were a real pita.... The old clutch was brittle and almost had a line right thru it. My brother grabbed it and tried pulling the clutch pad off the housing and it just snapped right off. It was overdue I guess. And the hpfp was dirty as a mf.. i think the last owner ran alot of E85. It was gunked up bad. Took me almost an hour to get it clean. And the hpfp was supposed to be pushing out on the bolts while u were taking it off but mine was so gunked up it just sat there in place. When I put the new one back it had to be pushed down to screw it in all the way (the spring was now extending to its full reach). I'm glad I was able to cover it $$$$... Right now I think after all upgrades to be installed and all parts I'm in it for almost $3300. I think.. Give or take a few bucks... Ouch... But you got to do what u got to do right.

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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

Last edited by Juschiln19; 12-02-2016 at 01:26 PM.
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 Old 10-11-2016, 01:33 PM   #5
 
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---UPDATE--

--INSTALL--
Mazda 6(non-turbo) oil filter conversion kit (speed6 oem oil cooler delete)
Front mount oil cooler(mounted in hood scoop)
Sandwhich plate for guages
3in1 Guage(oil temp/oil pressure/boost)
Custom vent triple guage pod
Fmic

Ok, So I finally got my mazda 6(non-turbo)(oem oil cooler delete) on with my new front mount oil cooler that I mounted in the hood scoop. With the sandwhich plate for the gauges. But with the oil filter on, the length is now putting the end of the oil filter just a half inch past the subframe.... OMG.....

Well there were no leaks with the whole oil filter conversion with sandwhich plate and oil cooler. But now that I can see the oil temps, I'm seeing that it don't look like the oil cooler in the hood scoop is working out. The temps just goes up and up and up and are just climbing to about 208 to 220 and evan on the highway it's not going down. I think the problem is when I did my mock up and planning. I didn't take into account that the fmic pipe that comes off the turbo, going over the top of engine is high enough that people were removing the hood scoop all together... so I had to move the placement of the oil cooler in the scoop to where it wouldn't hit the fmic pipe. So I had to cut a notch in the side wall of the hood scoop for the pipe to clear and hood would now shut. I bought a water/dust proof fan but that wouldn't fit due to not noticing the removal of hood scoop to run fmic also. So had to return that. Now I'm thinking either go the old fashion way and put the oil cooler in front of the radiator. (But the point of a fmic is to move it away from the hot engine bay and components so it can be as cool as possible. But moving a oil cooler right behind it seems counter productive. Am I wrong?...)

Or maybe I'll buy a smaller 5" fan and run that. But that's only if I can fix the oil cooler position to better utilize the hood scoop air ducts. Right now the oil cooler is pushed all the way to the top of the hood scoop (front of hood) and is actually pinched in between the hood scoop assembly. So on the fence rather to attempt to remedy the issue and spend more $$$$ or to just go the old fashioned way.

--Problem--
Since I've bought the car, I've got 2 codes that come and go. They are:
U0121 - lost communication with anti-lock brake system

U0155 - lost communication with instrument panel

Now I've have never had any issues with brakes at all.
And as for the instrument panel, it's only happened about 3 time all together before the clutch job but has become more and more frequent since. But the whole cluster will just go dead(all guages drop like the cars off) but comes right back a second later.

I'm still trying to find the fix.. doing some reading trying to find solution. I know it sounds like a lose wire or more then likely a short in a wire. Just hoping someone encountered this before and knows the problem area down to a 12" section of wire lol yeah right... right??

--Problem--
Broke TIP nipple to oem BCS
And when doing all the work to car in last 2 months at some point I broke the nipple for the stock TIP. So the car seems to have a little stumble but once u get into boost it's fine and smooths out. I'm trying to find quick fix until I put my 3.5" JBR full wide flow intake on.

--Maintenance--
Compression test

I did a compression test and the first time i had a bad tester. Would jump on cranks to 90 psi but would drop as soon as u stop cranking. but got a different one and got weird results. 90 psi across the board (the car has felt like it's lost power since my oil blew out on highway because the oem oil cooler bolt backing out. But no way its half the power it should) the car would be falling on its face. And that's just not the case. I did everything right.
Warm engine to operating temperature
take out all spark plugs
open Throttle body(screw driver handle holding open)
take out fuel pump fuse
hold down gas peddle and clutch when cranking
crank for 5 to 7 revolutions or a general 5 to 7 count.

But when I did the wet test it only went up to 100psi. So I think I messed up the test.. not sure??...

--Problem--
Turbo Stutter

Since I installed the Fmic the car seems to have a turbo stutter, I guess its called. When I'm shifting at low to mid rpm I get a stutter with the blow off noise... but when I go WOT it doesn't do it.. I get the normal whoosh of the bov. I did some reading and found turbo stutter to be ether a back pressure on turbo problem or a leak at the bov/recirculation hose. I bought new hose (found leak on bottom side of bov recirculation hose), i bought new clamps but it seems to do the stutter off and on now... not sure how to fix as of now... still reading up...

Looking to fix sub frame bolt when it comes in, and find solution for turbo stutter, and change diff fluid, and fix TIP broken nipple, relocate windshield washer to driverside and run plumbing, and get a alignment, fix or relocate oil cooler. This is what I'm focusing on now.

Any feed back or suggestions are always good. Thanks I'll take some pics of what I got going now
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

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 Old 10-15-2016, 11:29 PM   #6
 
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--UPDATE--

--Maintenance--
Reinstalled windshield washer resivor
Fixed broken nipple TIP
Attempted to fix oil cooler's lack of air
Replaced a few fmic clamps.
Fixed possible guage issue zip tie too tight

I reinstalled the windshield washer resivor on the drivers side and extended the 2 plugs and the hose across the front of the car where the stock wire harness runs across where the fans are. Went well and fit under bumper no problem. Whoop whoop I can clean my window :-)

I fixed the broken TIP by drilling the hole out a little bigger and forcing a tube connector that connects two hoses that was of the same size as the tube for the bcs. And put some rubber cement on it to help seal it. but it was a tight fit, so I think its good.

So the oil cooler is sitting where 90% of the cooler is behind the closed spot between the 2 scoops in the hood are. so it's not getting enough air flow thru the actual oil cooler fins. So I bought 2 1.5" 90° rubber hoses for plumbing. And i squeezed them in the the outer corners of both sides, to get them to direct the air coming in into the scoops to the middle where the cooler main body is. Hoping this will be a quick and easy fix. I'll update after a few days .

I had a few fmic clamps that I had issues with. So I bought some new ones and replaced them... :-)

Ok, So I bought a 3in1 glow shift gauge... I know I know they are crap.... I guess.. I found the post about it after I bought them and had already installed the guage sensors. And the post was saying about how they are wonky about being reliable and the accuracy was questionable on some units. And how getting a refund was a real PIA. I was really hoping mine would be a good one. But the guage is reading 20 vacume at idle and the torque digital gauges that reads the ecu's readings are picking up only like 8 to 10 vacume at idle and when I'm in boost at WOT the glow shift is only reading 10 to 11 psi when the torque guage reads 13 to 14 psi at WOT. so I adjusted the guage using the screw in the back and with it adjusted all the way the way it needs to go, Just to zero out. It will only get to the bottom, not the middle of the bold notch for the zero on the guage when it should rest at zero in the middle of the zero bold notch. So I found that one of the zip ties I put on when routing the hose to the sensor was a little too tight. So I cut it off and put on a new one that is lose. So hoping it fixes it and it's not a faulty guage.... God I hope not.

Thanks for following. Any advise or help in any way is always a huge thumbs up :-)
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

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 Old 10-16-2016, 12:20 AM   #7
 
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This is my upgrade guide that I made to follow. It's based on three different upgrade guides I kept referring to. It's also my guide to keep track of where I'm at with the car.

KEY***P = Purchased) (....P = Pending)
+×+×+×+×+×+×UPGRADES+×+×+÷×+×+÷
STAGE 1
VersaTuner $450 ***P
Fuel pump internals (T)$382 ***P
Oil filter sandwich adapter $50 ***P
All Motor mounts ***P
Full 3" Intake (TIP,CAI,)(T)$295 ***P
Fmic $602 ***P
3" Down Pipe (T)$120 ***P
3" Race Pipe $150 ***P
Shocks /Coil overs $560/$800
Cooler spark plugs $45 ***P

STAGE 2
Clutch/Lightweight Flywheel $1100 ***P
Triple Gauge housing $150 ***P
Gauges (oil temp,boost,air/fuel)$150 ***P
Differential Mounts $500
Egr Removal Kit (T)$40 ***P
3" Cat-Back Exhaust $700
Brake Pads/Caliper
Lightweight pulley kit $200
Rear stability bar $207

STAGE 3 (375Whp) (My Goal)
Thermal gaskets
Turbo Upgrade $1100
MAP Sensor/wire adapter $90
Crankcase ventilation plate
Intake manifold(fix uneven air spilt/added air flow)
Exhaust manifold?
EBC(T)$115
Methanol Injection (?)
Tank fuel pump $250 (?)
E85 50/50 Tune (?)
Injector seals (?)
MAF blow thru configuration(100% BOV to atmosphere)

-------------------------------ENGINE BUILD--------------------------

STAGE 4 (600Whp)
Built Block(1000hp ready)($6400)
Machined head/Oversized valves/springs ($2000)
5th port injection

The list might be a little off on the timing of a few things but In general it's right on the money.

And this is my guide to see where I'm at
●■●■●■●■Removed●■●■●■●■●
OEM cartridge filter
Oil filter conversion kit
Oil cooler gasket(6/16)($27)

●■●■●■●■Installed■●■●■●■●■
Sure MAF Housing 2.75" Id (Pre-Installed)
Spectre CAI Cone 3" Id (Pre-Installed)
Turbosmart Dual Port BBV(Pre-Installed)
ContinentalExtremeContactDWS06($700)
Mazda 6(Non-turbo) oil filter Conversion/OEM Filter(OEM oil cooler delete)(10/2/16)
Royal Purple Oil($45)(Life Of Car)
02 Sensor - Bank 2 (05/2016)($30)
Stage 2 Clutch/Lightweight Flywheel(9lb lighter then stock)(8/29/16) ($1100)
Autotech hpfp internals(9/11/16)
Nkg plugs (1 step colder)(9/11/16)
Fmic (Tr6)/CX Racing Pipe kit (10/2/16)
Guage sandwich plate(10/2/16)
Custom guage vent pod(Block8Head) (10/9/16)
3in1(Boost/oil temp/oil pressure) (10/9/16)

*/*/*/*/Pending Install/*/*/*/
VersaTuner ($450)
3" Race Pipe
PCV Valve ($20)
3.5" Full intake
3" Catless down pipe

Egr Delete - Pending Blow-thru MAF config.


--------------------Needs By Priority------------------
-----------------------Maintenance----------------------
Fix sub-frame bolt P....
Oil filter adapter(oil cooler and gauge taps one adapter)
Change driver side tire rod end
Fix Pulling(special alignment $100) P....
Fix power steering fluid leak
Front mount - rear diff $250 P....
Rear mount - rear diff $250 P....
Heater core
Spare key $170
Remote start(viper)$350 P....
Fix A/C
Fix driver side back window(makes grinding noise 1/3 the way down)
Fix back passenger window (rolls with door switch but not with drivers main switch.
Blow-tru maf config. / egr delete
Shocks
Retread front right bolt hole splash shield
Aluminum splash gaurd
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

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 Old 10-16-2016, 11:09 AM   #8
 
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Ok so here are a few pic of the oil cooler in hood scoop. It's not pretty or perfect or the final rendering. I was ready to throw on what I had planned and I had already drained the oil and installed the new oil filter conversion it with the oil cooler sandwhich plate. And installed the oil cooler in the hood scoop at the point of realizing I over looked the hood scoop not clearing the fmic piping.
So I had to just move forward with what I already had going and make do and see if it evan worked efficently before I went back and did a final nice setup. So anyhow. Here it is.
Attached Images
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

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 Old 10-27-2016, 03:25 AM   #9
 
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UPDATE

ok so I had to move the front mount oil cooler from the hood scoop to in front of the radiator. I was trying to avoid this because I didn't want the heat from the oil cooler to affect the fmic. And as I suspected the intake air temps went up 10°F. Going to see if I can adjust it closer to the radiatior. The oil temps are now topping out at 208°F so thats better then 220°F to 223°F was going to put a fan on the cooler for stop lights and any idle time.. but not sure it will fit now.

Then I found out when I did the clutch replacement. I replaced the driver side sway bar linkage with a moog I believe was the name brand. I was happy it didn't have the pain in the ass oem elled wrench screws.. and the moog sway bar linkage had nipple on it to fill the bearing with oil. But I found the nipples are scrapping the drive shaft and the wheel well wall. I took the nipples off until I get a new sway bar linkage.

Hpfp is make loud ticking noises. Checked pics of torque Gauges for drives form few days and fuel pressure dropped to the 2xx to 3xx psi and AFR dropped to 10 to 9 range freaked me out so I parked the car until I know it's fixed. I read post talking about the hpfp ticking being normal but I think my is too loud to be just normal. I rebuilt the fuel pump Fellowes the instructions to the T. And the fuel pump is still ticking. It's a little quieter. But still can feel tick thru pump housing. And went for drive and saw fuel pressure in the 3xx psi range so looking at fuel relief valve or unsure. I'll post pics tomarrow
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

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 Old 10-27-2016, 05:26 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Hpfp is make loud ticking noises. Checked pics of torque Gauges for drives form few days and fuel pressure dropped to the 2xx to 3xx psi and AFR dropped to 10 to 9 range freaked me out so I parked the car until I know it's fixed. I read post talking about the hpfp ticking being normal but I think my is too loud to be just normal. I rebuilt the fuel pump Fellowes the instructions to the T. And the fuel pump is still ticking. It's a little quieter. But still can feel tick thru pump housing. And went for drive and saw fuel pressure in the 3xx psi range so looking at fuel relief valve or unsure. I'll post pics tomarrow
Again...dipping into 200s is fine on no-throttle deceleration. unless that's under load you don't have a problem. You still haven't told us when it actually happened
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 Old 10-27-2016, 05:40 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
UPDATE

ok so I had to move the front mount oil cooler from the hood scoop to in front of the radiator. I was trying to avoid this because I didn't want the heat form the oil cooler to affect the fmic. And as I suspected the intake air temps went up 10°F. Going to see if I can adjust it closer to the radiatior. The oil temps are now topping out at 208°F so thats better then 220°F to 223°F was going to put a fan on the cooler for stop lights and any idle time.. but not sure it will fit now.

Then I found out when I did the clutch replacement. I replaced the driver side sway bar linkage with a moog I believe was the name brand. I was happy it didn't have the pain in the ass oem elled wrench screws.. and the moog sway bar linkage had nipple on it to fill the bearing with oil. But I found the nipples are scrapping the drive shaft and the wheel well wall. I took the nipples off until I get a new sway bar linkage.

Hpfp is make loud ticking noises. Checked pics of torque Gauges for drives form few days and fuel pressure dropped to the 2xx to 3xx psi and AFR dropped to 10 to 9 range freaked me out so I parked the car until I know it's fixed. I read post talking about the hpfp ticking being normal but I think my is too loud to be just normal. I rebuilt the fuel pump Fellowes the instructions to the T. And the fuel pump is still ticking. It's a little quieter. But still can feel tick thru pump housing. And went for drive and saw fuel pressure in the 3xx psi range so looking at fuel relief valve or unsure. I'll post pics tomarrow
Intermittent fuel pressures in the 200-300psi range are normal for driving around town. What matters is WHEN they are occurring, not IF they are. So as I've said before, take a datalog and post it. There's really no point in getting upset unless you're having fuel pressure drops below 1600psi at WOT.


FWIW, your fuel pump sounds more or less like mine too, so I'm not sure why you've got your panties in a twist.
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 Old 10-27-2016, 05:56 AM   #12
 
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you need a drive cam...
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 Old 10-27-2016, 06:49 AM   #13
 
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1000 hp capable block?
600 whp on a 5th port setup?

You've got some more reading to do. You'll need a lot more fuel than a 5th port to get 600whp, let alone anywhere near 1000.
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 Old 10-27-2016, 10:51 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Intermittent fuel pressures in the 200-300psi range are normal for driving around town. What matters is WHEN they are occurring, not IF they are. So as I've said before, take a datalog and post it. There's really no point in getting upset unless you're having fuel pressure drops below 1600psi at WOT.


FWIW, your fuel pump sounds more or less like mine too, so I'm not sure why you've got your panties in a twist.
Ok so i havent ran a full data log yet. That's why I'm not exactly sure when it did happen. I'm going to take a drive and do a log, so I'll have that answer. This is what I needed to know, how and what to look for. And hey man I respect your input, but just because one person on a fourm says "It's all good bro".. sorry but if I described it wrong or u miss understood what issue I was having and I just say OK.. and write it off, and bam I blow a motor.. I'm sure if you thought something was wrong and didn't know for sure if it's normal or not. I'm sure you would take the high road and park it until you KNEW FOR SURE. I love my car and the last thing I need is to just write off new noises and go and carelessly blow my motor and then be like idk what happened... You know.. I still don't know how to upload a full data log. Do u just up load it like a photo? I figured that would be like a screen shot one spot on the whole datalog would be shown.. idk, I'll try after I get the log. The tick came out of no where. And I've never data logged before so when I read look for this (don't want to see hpfp below 450 ish psi) and then I saw it drop. I freaked out ok.. maybe a little quick to park it but rather be safe the sorry. This is only my second boosted car and I'm just trying to do it right. No careless bs and blow a motor.... again I do appreciate the advice.

And as for the 600Whp part on my staging. I'm not looking to do a full engine build anytime soon. So I have not gone into real depth on reading up on what is needed to get to that number. I pretty much stopped at the stock block and Internals hp limit which from what I've read is 400whp you will break something. So right around 370 whp is what I'm shooting for. Something I can beat on without the worry of blowing it.... so the block was one I found on a Web site.. here : SP63 Stage 3 Built Long Block For Mazda MZR-DISI - SPEED PERF6RMANC3

And 1000hp is what the block could handle not what I was saying u could get off 5th port. Then a seroius head job. Then from what I've read to get over 500whp you have to get auxiliary fuel hints the 5th port. And run 50/50 E85 or better along with meth and a BIG snail. That's what I think is needed to achieve 600whp.. but like I said once I found out I would never see half of that since I'm not financially able to swing a 10k built motor. So I just stopped researching what was needed to get more hp past the 400whp range. The stage 4 on my list was so I had a rough idea of what that would look like. if i ever came into that kind of money, I'd know somewhat what I'd be looking at... but I'm not going above my stage 3(370whp) but thanks I appreciate the info. And if I go bigger then yeah I have alot of reading to do still. I'm more worried about will I need a oil catch can that vents to atmosphere setup for (375whp) or egr delete? Or am I lost on that one. Got to read up on occasion and when it's needed And also do I need Injector seals. Some people say no, some say yes I just need a answer that's fact based not opinion based. Thanks I'll do a log a try and post it before I work today.

Originally Posted by djern View Post
you need a drive cam...
What? Do u mean the cam lube I checked it it's perfect
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 Old 10-27-2016, 01:18 PM   #15
 
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Ok, I got some logs. Now I didn't do the 4th gear only pull. I figured it would have alot more information if I just did a pull where I went thru a few gears and u got to see the full picture of the cars current state so I know if it's good, bad, horrible or just fine.. I really appreciate everybody's help!

One log is really long that was of start up and drive to good spot to get WOT logs but I did go into boost on the way there so there is good info there but at first it's me driving out the neighborhood

Mazdaspeed6 Fuel Issue test 10-27-2016 01_11_47-01_14_04.csv

Mazdaspeed6 Fuel Issue test 10-27-2016 01_14_24-01_18_30.csv

Mazdaspeed6 Fuel Issue test 10-27-2016 12_56_37-01_07_28.csv

Mazdaspeed6 Fuel Issue test 10-27-2016 01_37_27-01_43_05.csv
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 Old 10-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #16
 
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The ones I uploaded are excel data. I still can't figure out how to upload the log in graph fourm so u can see it
I tried uploading like i would a picture. But I can't find the log on my phone. So I have to export it as a csv file email it to self, then download it from email and upload it that way. a pita thanks again

Question I have now that you have seen some data is am I running stock from what u can see? And can u tell if the maf scale is reading as it should if tuned for bigger housing? And the most important is my hpfp acting right?

I was looking and am not sure sometimes on wot, it seems to only go to 16×× ish psi and other times I hits 18×× ish psi. so I think that's right please let me know so I can start driving it again. I noticed while drive for logs it seems to hesitate a little and still seems a little slugish..

I'm going to measure maf housing id tomarrow and post it
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 Old 10-27-2016, 02:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
The ones I uploaded are excel data. I still can't figure out how to upload the log in graph fourm so u can see it
I tried uploading like i would a picture but I can't find the log on my phone. So I have to export it as a csv file email to self them download from email and upload that way a pita thanks again

Question I have now that you have seen some data is am I running stock from what u can see? And can u tell if the maf scale is reading as it should of tuned for bigger housing? And the most important is my hpfp acting right?

I was looking and am not sure sometimes on wot it seems to only go to 16×× ish psi and other times I hits 18×× ish psi so I think that's right please let me know so I can start driving it again. I notice while drive for logs it seems to hesitate a little and still seems a little slugish..

I'm going to measure maf housing id tomarrow and post it
The stock tune targets 15.5psi at WOT and tapers down to ~11 at redline with about 1.5psi of play in either direction. That is to say, if you're touching 18psi, then you're either mechanically or electronically (or both) probably not stock.

Please don't post graphs of the data instead of posting the data. It's much more revealing to see the data and produce our own graphs if necessary.

For datalogs, it's better to do a single gear pull from ~2800rpm-6000+ RPM rather than throw a bunch of shifts and on/off throttle situations in, UNLESS you're trying to show some specific odd behavior under a controlled set of circumstances. That is, a consistent pull in a single gear is generally much more revealing than a log of you just driving around town.

If you log a few more parameters, we can tell you a bit more about your car and what needs to be done to the tune (if anything).

It would help to have long term fuel trims (LTFT), short term fuel trims (STFT), MAF voltage, knock retard, injector duty cycles, and ignition timing (spark timing º) to make a better assessment of your engine.

Unless I'm doing my math wrong, something doesn't quite add up for your Mass Air Flow Rate. While it varies with temperature and pressure, 1g/s is approximately 0.57*1CFM @STP. That gives us nearly 700g/s for some of the high throttle portions of your logs. That doesn't make any sense. You should be down in the mid to upper 200g/s range in boost at the high end of your rev range.

The one thing that DOES seem entirely normal is your fuel pump readings, though there's another indication that your MAF is improperly scaled (you're dipping well into the 10:1 AFRs in the mid-4000 portion of your pulls. That indicates that the car is running safely, but conservatively. For a decent tune, your WOT AFRs should be in the mid 11:1s. Right now, your ECU is being told that for the MAF voltages your car is generating it is supposed to be getting ~5% more air than is actually passing by the sensor. There's room for improvement, but it's OK for now.
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 Old 10-28-2016, 12:26 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Ok so i havent ran a full data log yet. That why im not exactly sure when i did happen im goimg to take a drive and do a log. So I'll have that answer. This is what I needed to know how and what to look for. And hey man I respect your input but just because one person a fourm says it's all good bro .. sorry but if I described it wrong or u miss understood what issue I was having and I just say OK.. and write it off and bam I blow a motor.. I'm sure if you thought something was wrong and didn't know for sure if it's normal or not. I'm sure you would take the high road and park it until you KNOW FOR SURE. I love my car and the last thing I need is to just write off new noises and go and carelessly blow my motor and then be like idk what happened... you know.. I still don't know how to upload a full data log. Do u just up load it like like a photo? I figured that would be like a screen shot one spot on the whole datalog wouod be shown.. idk I'll try after i get the log. The tick came out of no where. And I've never data logged before so when I read look for this (don't want to see hpfp below 450 ish psi) and then I saw it drop. I freaked out ok.. maybe a little quick to park it but rather be safe the sorry. This is only my second boosted car and I'm just trying to do it right. No careless bs and blow a motor.... again I do appreciate the advice.

And as for the 600Whp part on my staging. I'm not looking to do a full engine build anytime soon. So I have not gone into real depth on reading up on what is needed to get to that number. I pretty much stopped at the stock block and Internals hp limit which from what I've read is 400whp you will break something. So right around 370 whp is what I'm shooting for. Something I can beat on without the worry of blowing it.... so the block was one I found on a Web site.. here : SP63 Stage 3 Built Long Block For Mazda MZR-DISI - SPEED PERF6RMANC3

And 1000hp is what the block could handle not what I was saying u could get off 5th port. Then a seroius head job. Then from what I've read to get over 500whp you have to get auxiliary fuel hints the 5th port. And run 50/50 E85 or better along with meth and a BIG snail. That's what I think is needed to achieve 600whp.. but like I said once I found out I would never see half of that since I'm not financially able to swing a 10k built motor. So I just stopped researching what was needed to get more hp past the 400whp range. The stage 4 on my list was so I had a rough idea of what that would look like. if i ever came into that kind of money, I'd know somewhat what I'd be looking at... but I'm not going above my stage 3(370whp) but thanks I appreciate the info. And if I go bigger the yeah I have alot of reading to do still. I'm more worried about will I need a oil catch can that vents to atmosphere setup for (375whp) or egr delete? Or em I lost on that one. Got to read up on occasion and when it's needed And also do I need Injector seals. Some people say no, some say yes I just need a answer that's fact based not opinion based. Thanks I'll do a log a try and post it before I work today.


What? Do u mean the cam lube I checked it it's perfect
drive cam = camera that records video while you are driving.
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:27 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by djern View Post
drive cam = camera that records video while you are driving.
Yeah i thought about it after I got hit by that BMW trying to forcefully take my lane. but I might have more fun then I'd like to have evidence of. And I just think of showing a cop the accident and him seeing a like the 10 min before when I may or may not have went around some assholes going slow in fast Lane or something like that... and score my self another ticket lol
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:31 AM   #20
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Or...you could not drive like an asshat while you're (theoretically) sharing the road with other drivers.
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:31 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
The stock tune targets 15.5psi at WOT and tapers down to ~11 at redline with about 1.5psi of play in either direction. That is to say, if you're touching 18psi, then you're either mechanically or electronically (or both) probably not stock.

Please don't post graphs of the data instead of posting the data. It's much more revealing to see the data and produce our own graphs if necessary.

For datalogs, it's better to do a single gear pull from ~2800rpm-6000+ RPM rather than throw a bunch of shifts and on/off throttle situations in, UNLESS you're trying to show some specific odd behavior under a controlled set of circumstances. That is, a consistent pull in a single gear is generally much more revealing than a log of you just driving around town.

If you log a few more parameters, we can tell you a bit more about your car and what needs to be done to the tune (if anything).

It would help to have long term fuel trims (LTFT), short term fuel trims (STFT), MAF voltage, knock retard, injector duty cycles, and ignition timing (spark timing º) to make a better assessment of your engine.

Unless I'm doing my math wrong, something doesn't quite add up for your Mass Air Flow Rate. While it varies with temperature and pressure, 1g/s is approximately 0.57*1CFM @STP. That gives us nearly 700g/s for some of the high throttle portions of your logs. That doesn't make any sense. You should be down in the mid to upper 200g/s range in boost at the high end of your rev range.

The one thing that DOES seem entirely normal is your fuel pump readings, though there's another indication that your MAF is improperly scaled (you're dipping well into the 10:1 AFRs in the mid-4000 portion of your pulls. That indicates that the car is running safely, but conservatively. For a decent tune, your WOT AFRs should be in the mid 11:1s. Right now, your ECU is being told that for the MAF voltages your car is generating it is supposed to be getting ~5% more air than is actually passing by the sensor. There's room for improvement, but it's OK for now.
Ok so I'm setting up torque to get all the extra data points you requested but I can't find Injector cycle duty and the maf says it's in cfm when I pick.it out of the menu but when you look at it I'm next screen is say(g/s) so just want to be sure that's the right one. And the long term and short term fuel. It's give my bank 1 option and bank 2 so I going to do both. I'll be logging a few today. And I'll do it the one gear to redline. Thanks
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:39 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Ok so I'm setting up torque to get all the extra data points you requested but I can't find Injector cycle duty and the maf says it's in cfm when I pick.it out of the menu but when you look at it I'm next screen is say(g/s) so just want to be sure that's the right one. And the long term and short term fuel. It's give my bank 1 option and bank 2 so I going to do both. I'll be logging a few today. And I'll do it the one gear to redline. Thanks
Well, in either case, if it's reading in CFM then it's producing numbers that don't make sense for your (or any) setup of which I'm aware. If it's reading in g/s, then it's still not producing numbers that make any sense.

Here's what I mean. A stock-ish car with a stock-sized turbo will pull in about 270g/s of air at redline at ~16.5psi. Your car seems to be saying that it's inhaling ~1100cfm of air at its peak. 1100cfm at STP comes to 600-700g/s of air (depending on the density of the air). 1100g/s clearly doesn't make sense either. Either the values are not representing what they're listed as representing, or something isn't calibrated to read properly.

Are you using the Mazdaspeed add-on for Torque? If not, then you probably need it.
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:41 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Or...you could not drive like an asshat while you're (theoretically) sharing the road with other drivers.
Hey I drive like adult. I just get sick of asshole # 5, 6 & 7 that get on highway merge all the way to fast lane and got the speed limit. Atleast do the normal 5 over. Or hey u see a car coming at a faster pace then u. Don't get in front of it.. in Colorado we have idiots left and right. And now that everybody is moving here because recreational weed is legal the idot count just sky rocketed... so I'm not driving like a asshole. I'm just sick of telling myself just go around the idiot and don't get mad... then like I said idiot # 5, 6 & 7 come along do the same shit then I get mad and I'm going around these 3 and avoiding the next 3 that try... I'm just saying rather your going around people and speeding or just speeding to speed :-) lol the cop will see speeding that's it... I love my car and don't go crazy driving like a Honda(dipping in and out of lanes like a fucking idiot, cutting everybody off they can) I hate those picks lol
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:48 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Well, in either case, if it's reading in CFM then it's producing numbers that don't make sense for your (or any) setup of which I'm aware. If it's reading in g/s, then it's still not producing numbers that make any sense.

Here's what I mean. A stock-ish car with a stock-sized turbo will pull in about 270g/s of air at redline at ~16.5psi. Your car seems to be saying that it's inhaling ~1100cfm of air at its peak. 1100cfm at STP comes to 600-700g/s of air (depending on the density of the air). 1100g/s clearly doesn't make sense either. Either the values are not representing what they're listed as representing, or something isn't calibrated to read properly.

Are you using the Mazdaspeed add-on for Torque? If not, then you probably need it.
Yeah I have the add on, The only options I get for the maf is voltage and maf flow rate (g/s). Idk how or what is off. I'll just take another log and go from there I guess
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 Old 10-29-2016, 09:06 AM   #25
 
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Ok here is 2 logs, they are 3rd gear pulls. one was a little cut off. I'm trying to get use to when to turn on torque app, so I can just get the 3rd gear pull and not before or after and when to time it to connect in time to get all readings before I do the pull. But I think I got it down I'll get a few more today. .

I haven't seen 18psi in boost the 18xx I was refering to was hpfp. As for the boost the highest I've seen is 15ish psi and now because the fmic I only see 14ish psi range


trackLog-2016-Oct-28_20-19-46.csv

trackLog-2016-Oct-28_20-17-29.csv
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 Old 10-29-2016, 06:23 PM   #26
 
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Alright grabbed a few more logs. And I found I must not have retightened the bov recirculation hose well enough. It blow it's self off. So fixed before these logs. Are u able to tell me if my motor is heathly.. thats what I been waiting for to add versatuner... anyhow here's the logs. Thanks

trackLog-2016-Oct-29_12-30-42.csv

trackLog-2016-Oct-29_12-26-34.csv

trackLog-2016-Oct-29_12-09-57.csv
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 Old 10-29-2016, 06:54 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Hey I drive like adult. I just get sick of asshole # 5, 6 & 7 that get on highway merge all the way to fast lane and got speed limit. Atleast do the normal 5 over. Or hey u see a car coming at a faster pace then u. Don't get in front of it.. in Colorado we have idiots left and right. And now that everybody is moving here because recreational weed is legal the idot count just sky rocketed... so I'm not driving like a asshole. I'm just sick of telling myself just go around the idiot and don't get mad... then like I said idiot # 5, 6 & 7 come along do the same shit then I get mad and I'm going around these 3 and avoiding the next 3 that try... I'm just saying rather your going around people and speeding or just speeding to speed :-) lol the cop will see speeding that's it... I love my car and don't go crazy driving like a Honda(dipping in and out of lanes like a fucking idiot, cutting everybody off they can) I hate those picks lol
Lol try driving in brooklyn all day and commuting you wouldnt last a day with that attitude. Ever been thru a smith driving course? You should try it.
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 Old 10-29-2016, 10:39 PM   #28
 
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Ok so here's a few pics of the moog sway bar linkage rubbing wheel well and drive shaft. There's also a video.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20161023_183354.jpg (1.99 MB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20161023_183516.jpg (2.24 MB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20161023_184232.jpg (2.12 MB, 5 views)
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File Type: mp4 20161023_184243.mp4 (27.95 MB, 0 views)
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 Old 10-29-2016, 10:52 PM   #29
 
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Here's a few pics of the oil cooler in the front bumper. Im going to move oil cooler closer to the radiatior if possible and do a more permanent install. Since it seems to be working better here.

20161023_170415.jpg

20161023_170405.jpg

20161023_170335.jpg

20161023_170424.jpg

20161023_170434.jpg

20161023_171923.jpg

20161023_171952.jpg

20161023_172004.jpg
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 Old 10-29-2016, 11:00 PM   #30
 
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Ok so after I got the Gauges and the sandwhich plate for that and the oil cooler and the sandwhich plate for that and installed them both on the mazda 6(non turbo) oil filter conversion kit with oem oil filter. It pushes the oil filter past the subframe and into danger zone. So ive been looking for a solution. And I found a sandwich plate that has oil cooler and sensor spots on one sandwich plate with a built in thermostat.. I think I'm going to run it.
I added a few pics and the website.

Circuit Sports Thermostatic Oil Cooler Adapter for Nissan SR20DET S13/S14/S15 - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

Screenshot_2016-10-29-19-52-16.jpg

Screenshot_2016-10-29-19-52-36.jpg
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File Type: jpg 20161023_172138.jpg (1.92 MB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20161023_170321.jpg (2.71 MB, 6 views)
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 Old 10-30-2016, 08:27 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Ok here is 2 logs, they are 3rd gear pulls. one was a little cut off. I'm trying to get use to when to turn on torque app, so I can just get the 3rd gear pull and not before or after and when to time it to connect in time to get all readings before I do the pull. But I think I got it down I'll get a few more today. .

I haven't seen 18psi in boost the 18xx I was refering to was hpfp. As for the boost the highest I've seen is 15ish psi and now because the fmic I only see 14ish psi range


Attachment 229164

Attachment 229165
There's nowhere near enough data granularity in those logs to tell us anything. The log only seems to be grabbing data once about every 1.1 seconds. It needs to be more like 3-5 times per second at a minimum for us to catch any problems that might be occurring.
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 Old 10-30-2016, 08:42 AM   #32
 
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I thought it seemed like not much was there. I'll check settings and grab a cuple this morning
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 Old 10-30-2016, 09:41 AM   #33
 
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Do u know how to speed it up I'm going thru all the settings and I'm not seeing a option. The add on I bought for it that does graphs(which also data logs) it only does 8 data points so. Do u know how to speed them up.
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 Old 10-30-2016, 10:33 AM   #34
 
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Ok so I found the app says the more pid's (sensors) you log the slower the intervals. So I think I removed anything extra. So this should speed it up and be the bare bones of what we need. The fist one is a 4th gear pull the rest are 3rd gear pulls. So hope this fixed it. Of no the add on I bought for the app to do graphs gives option for pick intervals period between updates down to 250 milliseconds. But only allows 8 sensors to be picked up at once so I don't think that will work unless I get a few base sensors and run 2 seprete logs and run half the sensors we need on one and then the other but I think that's not going to work or br accurate. Let me know if it's better now. Do I need Throttle position and actual pedal position?

trackLog-2016-Oct-30_11-08-15 - 4th gear pull.csv

trackLog-2016-Oct-30_11-07-22.csv

trackLog-2016-Oct-30_11-05-21.csv
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 Old 10-30-2016, 11:02 AM   #35
 
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Ok so I looked and there still not updating fast enough right now I have 17 pid's being logged can I eliminate any more and I still get what I need?
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 Old 10-30-2016, 01:08 PM   #36
 
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Ok I got it down a few more pid's. And more data points but I'm not down to a refresh rate to 3 to 4 times a second. I did a graph log and it did a refresh rate of 3 to 4 times a second but it would let me save it or share it. So I could only view it. Then I check the recorded log from torque and same slow refresh rate I had 1.1 a second... frustrating.
Here's the latest one.

trackLog-2016-Oct-30_12-51-50.csv

It was 3 to 4 pulls in 3rd and one in 4th and one in 5th but they are separated (where I'd let the engine go back down to idle and pause get ready again and turn logging back on and do another pull) I won't be doing anymore like this . It was different doing the torque graph (whee it no add on)

I just need enough data for you guys to tell me if the engine's seems to be in the right spectrum of readings that a heath engine should be in. The I can add versatuner and can take proper logs with versatuner.... damn you torque graph for not give me my data.....lol
Going to eliminate a few more things like boosted air temp and pedal position. And mph things I don't think I need right??? I appreciate your time and effort in helping me
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 Old 10-30-2016, 02:38 PM   #37
 
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Ok pulled a few more but still same problem I think it got a little better but not much. I did a few 3rd gear, one 4th gear pulls. I'm honestly thinking it can't be that unhealthy. It still gets up a moves. So I'm going to measure maf housing now

trackLog-2016-Oct-30_15-20-22.csv
Attached Files
File Type: csv trackLog-2016-Oct-30_15-00-37.csv (4.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv trackLog-2016-Oct-30_15-02-57.csv (5.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv trackLog-2016-Oct-30_15-05-59.csv (15.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv trackLog-2016-Oct-30_15-07-30.csv (7.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv trackLog-2016-Oct-30_15-17-26.csv (6.5 KB, 0 views)
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 Old 10-31-2016, 12:57 AM   #38
 
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UPDATE

I measured the MAF Housing ID and got 2.6".

MAINTENANCE
Fixed broken subframe bolt
Pushed oil cooler back more towards radiator.
Moved heat shield(from whole tmic turbo outlet pipe - cut into 3 pieces and 2 used on same pipe but one right at turbo out to protect plastic hose on intake manifold and one covering the 2 coil packs the fmic pipe goes over) and the third piece going on the fmic throttle body inlet pipe seems to be getting hot and getting maf housing, radiator hose, and throttle body coolant line hot)


PROBLEM
Found my locking lug nut key broke. The inner key broke out of the housing and I can't get my tires off right now..
I already called dealer they said all they can do is see me a whole new set. Or I could call company that makes them and request a replacement. So I already emailed mcgard. Waiting for response.

Added a few pics. Not sure what to do about the torque app not logging faster intervals.... I tried searching google and didn't find much.

20161030_164548.jpg

20161030_165412.jpg

20161030_165431.jpg

20161030_170218.jpg

20161030_173215.jpg

20161030_182145.jpg

20161025_032519.jpg

20161025_032532.jpg

20161025_032543.jpg
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 Old 10-31-2016, 04:58 AM   #39
 
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How about you log with that fancy versatune software you bought?
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 Old 10-31-2016, 08:43 AM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
How about you log with that fancy versatune software you bought?
Because as it says in the thread. I'm trying to comfirm the heath of the engine before I install a tuning software that will up the hp with its base tune. Adding hp to a unhealthy motor is not very smart. So I'm doing the smart thing and taking me time and making sure I do it right. I'm not going to just wing it and then when my engine taps out because it wasn't heathly or ready. And then be like oh man... while I'm sol... Thinking things thru instead of winging it seems like a better plan
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