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 Old 10-31-2016, 09:08 AM   #41
 
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You can install a tune that neuters the car....no wastegate, command spring pressure, limit load. Most would call that safer than running an intake too big for your stock tune without any ability to properly log.

Or you can keep taking useless logs and never figure out if you actually have a problem.

Have you done compression and leakdown tests?
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 Old 10-31-2016, 09:18 AM   #42
 
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The whole reason why I was trying to data log. Was to check the heath of my hpfp after upgrade and my engine. I'd rather be overly cautious and take my time and do it right in my opinion.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 09:32 AM   #43
 
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Technically the logs are not useless. I found my hpfp rebuild is heathly. That's the reason I started logging....

Hey buddy if your going to chime in with your opinion then can you atleast read the thread first.... Please do I'd appreciate a well thought out, educated opinion.

The last post I posted i said i remeasured the maf housing and it is STOCK SIZE. so what are you talking about??? I already covered this issuse.. go up and read...

As for compression test go up read... Already covered it.

Read the thread that describes the situation in grave detail

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 Old 10-31-2016, 09:34 AM   #44
 
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here we go
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 Old 10-31-2016, 09:43 AM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Technically the log are not useless. I found my hpfp rebuild is heathly. That's the reason I started logging D-Bag.....

Hey buddy if your going to chime in with your opinion then atleast read the thread first, so you know what your talking about. The last post I posted said I remeasured the maf housing and it is STOCK SIZE. so what are you talking about??? I already covered this issuse.. go up and read.

As for compression test go up read... Already covered it. I have little patience for someone who starts talking smack and thinks you know it all. But doent evan read the thread describing a situation in detail before runing your mouth. Thanks for your lack of offering any useful help... instaed just being a D BAG...
I've read your entire bullshit build thread "pushing the limits" with your stock tune and an intake. You post a million MAINTENANCE...ACCIDENT...UPDATE..I don't have time to read it again. 7 posts in a row were you spewing run on sentences and horrific grammar for all of nothing. You clearly haven't done enough research to know that hitting 300psi is perfectly fine in the proper instance...next you're going to ask about the 3.4 KR you're seeing and when we ask when it happens you don't know.

So fine. You have 2 people trying to help you and you're providing no information. Your'e down to 1 now. @Vansquish; good luck. I'm sure your patience won't last long
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:07 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
The whole reason why I was trying to data log. Was to check the heath of my hpfp after upgrade and my engine. I'd rather be overly cautious and take my time and do it right in my opinion.
It's fine to be cautious. It's stupid to not use the best and most powerful tool at your disposal to ascertain the health of your HPFP and your engine. You can't "do it right" unless you use a proper datalogging/tuning solution.

Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Technically the logs are not useless. I found my hpfp rebuild is heathly. That's the reason I started logging....

Hey buddy if your going to chime in with your opinion then can you atleast read the thread first.... Please do I'd appreciate a well thought out, educated opinion.

The last post I posted i said i remeasured the maf housing and it is STOCK SIZE. so what are you talking about??? I already covered this issuse.. go up and read...

As for compression test go up read... Already covered it.

Read the thread that describes the situation in grave detail

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(This message has been censored to promote a DRAMA FREE ZONE)
The fact that you've resisted installing Versatune and using it to assess the health and well-being of your motor suggests that you really don't understand what Versatune can do for you. Also, for what it's worth, the logs have been about as close to useless as you can make a log and still see any marginally relevant data. Because the logging rate is so slow, we can't actually verify that your HPFP isn't dropping pressure intermittently either, so I wouldn't put too much faith in anything I (or anyone else) have said to the contrary.

Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
I've read your entire bullshit build thread "pushing the limits" with your stock tune and an intake. You post a million MAINTENANCE...ACCIDENT...UPDATE..I don't have time to read it again. 7 posts in a row were you spewing run on sentences and horrific grammar for all of nothing. You clearly haven't done enough research to know that hitting 300psi is perfectly fine in the proper instance...next you're going to ask about the 3.4 KR you're seeing and when we ask when it happens you don't know.

So fine. You have 2 people trying to help you and you're providing no information. Your'e down to 1 now. @Vansquish; good luck. I'm sure your patience won't last long
^^This.

I'm still down to help, but you need to do some reading and understand what it is that your motor is doing, and figure out whether you want to actually see data that is pertinent to your engine's health or not before you continue asking for more spoon-fed answers.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:23 AM   #47
 
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If you read the thread you wouldnt be asking questions that suggest you clearly haven't and I asked for help on how to fix it to data log faster. No response...Yeah this is only my 2nd boosted car. But the first car I planned on upgrading... and I'm going to learn the ins and outs and everything in between so I know that under 300 psi at certin times is normal. I said at the beginning that i was going to cover everything the good the bad the ugly... so if you don't like the build thread then why follow, do or dont read whole thread then chime in talking people down? Why not just move on... it was your choice to ask questions that have already been covered then say your were helping me....
It's going to be a slow build I never said it was going to be over night. I think I've actually done alot to take care of the car. And learn the main in and outs and starting to work on the little details now. And as for Grammer and run sentences. Auto correct is a bitch when it puts in the wrong shit. And u go back and read after u posted and everything f'ed up. And I might hit the wrong key here and there....

At the end of the day I asked for help on how to speed up logging to be useful.. got no response.. tried looking up didn't find what I was looking for.... tried what I could or thought I should. didn't seem to help. I have to pay some bills and more important shit. Then doing the compression test done. And possibly the leak down. I was just trying to avoid the shops. They all seem to abuse or f up the car.....
I tried uploading the best logs i could get. just to give you a general idea of the heath of motor. nothing crazy is going to be going on in the engine that wouldn't show its self in some way in the logs I provided. I was waiting a for someone to have a peek and tell me if its good enough to throw versatuner on it.... got nothing... sometimes people chime in... sometimes not... so I'm going to start looking over other people's stock logs if I can find them and compare I guess. Thanks for reading
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:29 AM   #48
 
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Use Versatune to have proper logging rates.

Even with only a few PID's, Torque via bluetooth will be slower than VT.

You seem to be somewhat reluctant to follow advice posted. If you ask for help, then refuse to take suggestions, but keep asking the same questions, people will grow frustrated and tired of attempting to help, D Bag.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:31 AM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
It's fine to be cautious. It's stupid to not use the best and most powerful tool at your disposal to ascertain the health of your HPFP and your engine. You can't "do it right" unless you use a proper datalogging/tuning solution.



The fact that you've resisted installing Versatune and using it to assess the health and well-being of your motor suggests that you really don't understand what Versatune can do for you. Also, for what it's worth, the logs have been about as close to useless as you can make a log and still see any marginally relevant data. Because the logging rate is so slow, we can't actually verify that your HPFP isn't dropping pressure intermittently either, so I wouldn't put too much faith in anything I (or anyone else) have said to the contrary.



^^This.

I'm still down to help, but you need to do some reading and understand what it is that your motor is doing, and figure out whether you want to actually see data that is pertinent to your engine's health or not before you continue asking for more spoon-fed answers.
I agree, I need to do more research on this platform. But I've asked the people that were offering help, on what they thought of what I did provide. And if it was good enough to add versatuner. I don't know how to do some of things suggested. I only started asking questions because people were offering help, Otherwise I try and do my own research. So I don't seem like I want to be "spoon feed the answer". For that reason....
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:46 AM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
--Maintenance--
Compression test

I did a compression test and first time i had a bad tester. Would jump on cranks to 90 psi but would drop as soon as u stop cranking. but got a different one and got weird results. 90 psi across the board (the car has felt like it's lost power since my oil blew out on highway because the oem oil cooler bolt backing out. But no way its half the power it should) the car would be falling on its face. And that's just not the case. I did everything right.
Warm engine to operating temperature
take out all plugs
open Throttle body
take out fuel pump fuse
hold down gas peddle and clutch when cranking
crank for 5 to 7 revolutions or a general 5 to 7 count.

But when I did the wet test it only went up to 100psi. So I think I messed up the test.. not sure??...
Found it. Good, concise test with a definitive answer. You have questionable compression...possibly. But probably not. But maybe. Sorry I didn't remember this nugget from 2 weeks ago.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:49 AM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
Use Versatune to have proper logging rates.

Even with only a few PID's, Torque via bluetooth will be slower than VT.

You seem to be somewhat reluctant to follow advice posted. If you ask for help, then refuse to take suggestions, but keep asking the same questions, people will grow frustrated and tired of attempting to help, D Bag.

When you ask for help. (I posted I wanted to check the heath of my motor. Tried compression test. Couldn't figure out why the test was saying only 90 psi across the board and only 100psi wet test.) People said bad tester or I did it wrong. I asked how

So I read and read, and read researching. Got stuck no body offered anymore help. Ok cool, i'll figure it out or take it to shop when I can. Not going to ask to be spoon feed info. Everyone knows/no one will tell. That's fine.

Then I get asked all the time why not use versatuner. But I'm going into it for the first time and throwing a premade map is easy like access port. But that adds power I'm trying to avoid that. Thinking it's the smart thing to do. Now I get people left and right telling me how I'm doing everything wrong....

Well I don't know how to go off "spring pressure only" yet. And make it tuned way down yet that's the hold up.. but I appreciate all that did and do provide help in this journey... I just wish people wouldn't be so abrasive.
Want to help too.. Sweet! I Appreciate It!

Want to just bash me and talk me down... no thank you I'm good.
Your choice to follow. So don't then...
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 Old 10-31-2016, 10:59 AM   #52
 
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It was suggested your compression tester is not accurate. Have you tried another compression tester yet?

It was suggested you needed to do single gear pulls for logging, took you days worth of garbage logs to to even concede to logging this way, and in you latest log post (admittedly, I have not looked at the logs) you mention that you got pulls through multiple gears including 5th gear.

It was suggested that you need a better way to monitor and log, yet you're still trying to make Torque work better for some reason.

See?

You ask for help, yet won't take it. Then you got mad when the people trying to help you got frustrated with your lack of effort and understanding of what you should be doing, not to mention your stubbornness when it comes to advice previously provided.

At this point, you are struggling to diagnose/confirm the health of the car. That is like step 1. Plenty of advice has been given that could have gotten you past this point and onto fixing any issues the car may have.

Frankly, I don't give a shit if you ever figure out how to properly log a pull, learn to do a compression test, or if your cars puts a hole in the block tomorrow. The help you are seeking is here in this thread. Be humble if you need help and be open to advice. If you doubt someones suggestions, feel free to ask for an explanation as to why, without insulting those trying to help you.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 12:43 PM   #53
 
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[QUOTE=WetzMS3;3090344]It was suggested your compression tester is not accurate. Have you tried another compression tester yet?

No,.it was I question if I did everything right so i didn't get any suggestions on what I did wrong. So I'm concidering taking to shop so I know it accurate..


It was suggested you needed to do single gear pulls for logging, took you days worth of garbage logs to to even concede to logging this way, and in you latest log post (admittedly, I have not looked at the logs) you mention that you got pulls through multiple gears including 5th gear.


In that post I was trying a different method of logging and I couldn't save the logs so to savage the drive to the logging spot I figured maybe I could separate the pulls buy letting the car go to idle for a minute between pulls. And they were one gear pulls. just one by one logs seperated by idle points... suggestion was made, when I read. I did as suggested. And actually that last couple suggestions said I should get the mazdaspeed add on for torque, and to add more things to log and they could tell me the roughly the heath of my engine that's the only reason I kept posting and continue to use torque.

It was suggested that you need a better way to monitor and log, yet you're still trying to make Torque work better for some reason.

No one actually came out and said scrap torque it's crap or I would have.

you are struggling to diagnose/confirm the health of the car. That is like step 1. Plenty of advice has been given that could have gotten you past this point. I must have missed it.

Like I said I was logging, or trying to for that reason by suggestion with torque and add on. ????

Frankly, I don't give a shit if you ever figure out how to properly log a pull, learn to do a compression test, or if your cars puts a hole in the block tomorrow.

Thank You Come Again

Be humble if you need help and be open to advice. If you doubt someones suggestions, feel free to ask for an explanation as to why, without insulting those trying to help you

Dude came at me like I'm not doing what I'm supposed to.. mind u this is my build thread. I go at my pace(mainly based on money) And this is not evan the thread I posted questions on. I was updating my build thread and people started in on me like I was posting a stupid question twice... I'm am and have been humble ... I honestly didn't evan realize he was one of the people helping me I thought it was someone who came along and just read like a few posts and started talking smack by the asking questions that were just gone over...
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 Old 10-31-2016, 12:55 PM   #54
 
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Now anyone want to tell how to delete half these un-needed drama filled posts on my build thread. I would really appreciate it
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 Old 10-31-2016, 12:56 PM   #55
 
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If all the useless posts got deleted, this wouldn't be a thread.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 01:00 PM   #56
 
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I'd prefer if u have questions, comments to be posted on this thread here :

Stock Block, Internals and Turbo Max Hp Safe Extraction Help

I'm just trying to keep the build thread clean and to the point only update and where it's at and what's next not drama or a bunch of back a forth for pages just to get to the facts one would seek when reading this. I just want a clean build thread if u can be respectful I'd sincerely appreciate it
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 Old 10-31-2016, 01:42 PM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
How about you log with that fancy versatune software you bought?


Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Because as it says in the thread. I'm trying to comfirm the heath of the engine before I install a tuning software that will up the hp with its base tune.


I did a compression test and first time i had a bad tester.
Lol so otc sells a compression tester and leak down tester on amazon for cheap.

Next order of buisness a clean 4th gear log along with the above is as good as it gets next to tearing it down. You need to visit mazda247 where they love this kinda of backwards bullshit. I know what you are doing but you are kind of a dumbass tbh and im trying to be nice.

So to recap compression for the bottom end and leak down for the top half. Logs for fp and turbo health and then stfu and make some power or install some led's and buy sideways stickers or somethig ffs.
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 Old 10-31-2016, 04:04 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
I'm trying to comfirm the heath of the engine before I install a tuning software that will up the hp with its base tune.
How is it that you have to run a new (more aggressive) tune just to log with Versatuner? Am I missing something here? Can you not just load it on your laptop/tablet, plug it in, and go take a proper log?



Just curious. Seems like it would have been so much easier from the get go. You can lead a horse to water......
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 Old 11-21-2016, 09:21 AM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
How is it that you have to run a new (more aggressive) tune just to log with Versatuner? Am I missing something here? Can you not just load it on your laptop/tablet, plug it in, and go take a proper log?



Just curious. Seems like it would have been so much easier from the get go. You can lead a horse to water......
When buying the versatuner I did alot of reading to see if it adds power, as well as pro's and con's and the 91 base map (which is the closest to the stock map ) adds slight increase in boost as well as revised fuel and spark and opens throttle over extended period. But its all good bro.. already did it. Just haven't updated thread yet. Sarcasm wears on you after awhile.
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 Old 11-21-2016, 09:35 AM   #60
 
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UPDATE

So after a week of driving and slowly getting into it. The cars feels good. Pulls good... so I went ahead and added the versatuner and went with the base 91 octane map. It adds slightly raised boost and revised fuel and spark. I let it relearn fuel trims and took a log a day or two later. I'll add those. The car feels Great!! They say it fixes the flat spots in the stock map and I think it really does and perks it up a little!!! Why did I wait so long... oh well.. I'm Happy now!
Attached Files
File Type: csv base 91 - 3rd gear pull.csv (8.9 KB, 1 views)
File Type: csv base 91-4th gear pull.csv (12.1 KB, 0 views)
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 Old 11-21-2016, 10:35 AM   #61
 
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Drove for awhile Enjoying it. Then I find a page on here for premade maf cals and I am just sitting on the jbr 3.5" True wide flow intake. And they do have the premade maf cal for the one I have.... SAY WHAT!!! So of course I read on how to add to a versatuner map and BAM!!! edited my first map.... installed the intake..... OMG..... DID YOU FLASH IT??? DID YOUR ENGINE BLOW????

YEP......

Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha jk LMFAO

I edited the 91 base map but the one that's for a tip and cai and added the 150 rpm to idle to help with a problem with the idle cycling thru a rough idle then back to normal and back to rough... and add as needed to help stop issue. so I added that and edited the maps maf cal and flashed it.

The car ran.. but it was off so I took a log of idle fuel pressure was at 1000psi at -8lbs boost sitting at 850rpm I believe it was and went around the block car bogged with any pedal past like a touch. So immediately parked it. Went back thru making sure I read everything on how to right and did another map redoing whole process. Got same result...

I did some more reading found another person trying to use maf cals in a question on versatuner forums And found the maf cals on this site are in metric not imperial(us). So u have to switch to metric on versatuner just long enough to add the maf cal save and switch back to imperial(us). To finish and add the 100or so rpm to the idle.

So I went with 150rpm added to idle. Flashed it.... it starts and runs and drives alright. It seems a bit less responsive to the pedal. I don't like that. It sounds amazing and once your in boost its goose but while shifting u get a like stutter while going from boost off and back on but then bam your back in your seat... idk how to fix this.

I been reading not seeing my issues in a question already covered. And now I'm getting lean at idle bank 1 code. So If I can't figure it out I might just switch back to other intake and base map until I figure it out. Not liking the lean code....

I'm just going to keep reading and see where I'm out in a few days.... ill add a few logs. All with maf cal and added 150rpm to idle. Two 3rd gear pulls, and one at idle with lean at idle light on.
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 Old 01-23-2017, 03:02 AM   #62
 
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UPDATE

Well, I got a little busy the last month or soo.. I was trying to do a MAF cal.. but never got around to it. But i found that after i uploaded a new tune(modifed idle rpm) and the ecu relearned the fuel trims, that it drove better and the lean at idle code went away... Then time flew by and then this happened.

I went in a third lane that no one was in on a main street while it was snowing around December 19 and went thru a intersection and about half way thru I realized there was what looked to be a small snow pile from snow plows.. and I was passing a car so I had to just hit it and just powered thru it.

The car is a Beast in the snow. And as i was driving about a mile up the road, i noticed the oil pressure gauge was reading ZERO.. My jaw hit the floor as i realized i was driving with No Oil Pressure!!! I turned it off and took it out of gear and rolled to a parking lot. (on a side note, I never did get the adapter for the guages and the oil cooler connections in one adapter. So the oil filter was still sitting about 1mm past the subframe... )

I heard the sound of of liquid gargling when I let off and shut it off... so I found the oil filter conversion kit's threaded tip for the oil filter is what snapped off. I put the oil filter conversion kit with oem top mount oil cooler back on. And changed oil in a walmart parking lot at 0°F outside. It was brutal. But fuck it... my baby won't be down long...

It drove it's self home but the turbo was making a faint high pitched noise. I experienced this with my A6 when the turbos went out. I tried to take it easy stayed out of boost and drove wife to work next day went to go to work and about half way there the faint high pitch noise.. became lounder not super loud but enough I could tell.

Then it made like a sputtering noise and before that the peddle response was normal to what little I was using it. And it went from that to I had to almost put the peddle to the floor to do the same throttle response. And then I looked in the rear view mirror and there was smoke and the more I put peddle down the more smoke and it would get thicker.

So I Bearly got her home and parked it.
On the way home I comfirmed it was the turbo. When I went in any sort of boost(anything over 0lbs on the boost guage) the turbo ' high pitch noise would get more intense and the smoke would.pour out the back but if I stayed out of boost a took it REAL EASY. It would smoke but not nearly as bad.


Fearful I not only blew the turbo but damaged the motor. I bought a new compression tester and tested it. Here's my results

Dry
Far right 147
Second from right 146
Second from left 144
Far left 152

Wet
Far right 158
Second from right 159
Sencond from left 157
Far left 163

I messaged a tuner just to get a quick answer. And the response I got was at the altitude in co the average is 160 psi, So he said I'm good to move forward and replace the turbo. So I'm looking at the BNR S4 and getting the Grimspeed EBC and the Guardian Angel with built in map sensor. Maybe sell my 3.5" JBR full wide flow intake because I got the stock turbo inlet size on the intake.

I was thinking of going 4".. Not Sure yet. Already ordered New BNR S4!!!! Now i just got to get all the extras (EBC,Map sensor/guardian angel, New plugs, fresh oil change).. then ether stretch current jbr 3.5" intake to fit new turbo inlet. Or get new intake and save for tune. :dr ive:

I'll add some pics

20161217_092751.jpg

20161217_092759.jpg

20161217_092815.jpg
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 Old 01-23-2017, 06:34 AM   #63
 
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You can cut the silicone JBR intake and use a coupler to mate it with the new turbo.
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 Old 02-10-2017, 06:58 PM   #64
 
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How? Wouldn't the clamp slide off when you tighten it down.. it would be a real pain unless you kow a better way. Screenshot_2017-02-10-19-52-58-1.jpg
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 Old 02-10-2017, 07:57 PM   #65
 
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Update

I got the BNR S4. It's BEAUTIFUL!!! ;-) I got the grimmspeed EBCS.. I ordered the o-ring for the power steering reservoir. known leak point. (Figured better fix it so it's not leaking on the dnyo). My rear diff has some play.

Still need
Guardian angel $220 (built in 3.5 bar map sensor)(to double as cars map sensor )
2in1 oil sandwhich plate $100(moves oil filter back into safe zone - higher then subframe w/oil cooler and gauge connections)
3.5" HTC intake $240(talked to tuner and he says a 4" intake on stock block internals and a bnr s4 is over kill :-)) )
Royal purple Oil $50
Spark plugs $10
Dyno Tune (91) $450
Coolant×2 $30 (if needed)

ASAP
Diff mounts
Oil pressure guage with alarm
Fuel injectors seals
Crows feet
Oil catch can(still looking into if I need it at stock block limits)
Pcv vent plate(still looking into if I need it at stock block power limits)
Alignment (Damn it still need to get this figured out)
20170204_125019.jpg

20170204_124947.jpg
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 Old 04-13-2017, 03:00 AM   #66
 
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UPDATE

---------Purchased----------
BNR S4 V2 1300 ****P
Grimmspeed Ebcs $125 ****P
Guardian angel $220 ****P
HTP 3.5" intake $300 ***P
Power steering o-ring$15 ****P
2in1 oil sandwhich plate$108 ****P
Transfer case bearing caps $167***P
Engine Magnetic Drian plug w/C washer$25**P
Turbo oil feed line $70 ****P
Diff Mounts $500 ***P
Exhaust manifold gasket $ ***P
Spark plugs $40 ***P
Dual Occ $385 ***P
Pcv vent plate $165 ****P
Oil cooler kit $142 ***P
Rear sway bar $218 ***P
Transmission crush washer$ ***P
Rear diff crush washers $ ****P
Transfer case crush washers $ ****P
Oil pressure guage w/alarm $80 ****P
Sway bar linkage(rear) $115****P
Egr delete
3" catless downpipe
3" sure catless test pipe

Now I'm just waiting for parts to come in. And get to it and put it all in. Missed my baby!!!! I think I got everything. ..
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 Old 06-01-2017, 09:50 PM   #67
 
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Opps... posted update on my help thread... don't want to post twice again so. If ur following this. The update is here: Stock Block, Internals and Turbo Max Hp Safe Extraction Help

My bad but making good progress
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 Old 06-11-2017, 05:42 PM   #68
 
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UPDATE - installed all, dyno tune failure, power steering wonky,

So Everything is Installed. WHA HOO!!! I got a base map from Alan Jackson at edge autosports. Was going to get a dyno tune, but ran into issues with the drivers not working for the cord for Versatuner. It wouldn't work on the tuners laptop or on mine.

So still on base map for now but it's running good. The base map hits 20psi. Feels Good!!! but since it's still the base map. I turned the guardian angel down to 18psi, Just to be safe. Getting a little backfire (exhaust pop) here and there when shifting in 1st and 2nd. Got to mess with the guardian angel's vta feature and get it right....

I think my power steering pump went out. Got fluid but feels hard to steer when turning at slow speeds.. And the clutch for the ac came out and I put it back with bolt but ac don't work evan after refilling with freeon... but nothing crazy...

I'm pretty happy with Install overall !!!! Finally making decent progress. I broke the fuel pump return line on top, while installing turbo... while I wait for it to come In, I just put on a regular fuel line.. seems to work fine. I also broke the oil filter housing nipple for the filter. Over tightened.. Opps lol.
Ordered new one, But couldn't seem to get it in time for dyno tune. So I sourced one from a junk yard off a speed 3.... that's about it for hickups!!! Made me happy!!!!

I appreciate any and all advice and help thus far... Its not over yet but I got to pay off some loans I had gotten to get her back on the road... then maybe a built motor in future !!! Lol..

In mean time some matainence. Ac compressor, power steering pump, and the brakes were in a state of distress. so that's the next big thing. And the valves were dirty (needed car now or would have cleaned) need to look Into timing chain get up and vvt actuator too.

I'm going to take care of some things before I turn it up. I was only going to dyno it to get a good daily street tune for now ... I want to keep her on the road with this motor for a little while...
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

Last edited by Juschiln19; 08-23-2017 at 03:44 AM. Reason: Tears Falling
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 Old 06-23-2017, 12:58 AM   #69
 
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Update - versatuner cable driver issuse fixed,radiator cracked,

Ok so since the dyno tune failure, I figured out the solution. But now I have to wait a pay check or 2 to get the dyno tune again..

So I drove to Idaho springs, and it was great drove great all the way there only issuse was seemed like power steering fluid was low. But I filled it before I left. But by the time I got to Idaho springs the power steering pump was smoking And was very hot. So hot it melted the resivor. So I let it cool for several hrs.

when I left I went stright to gas station to get more fluid (didnt think to bring some lol) the gas station was 2 blocks away and when I popped the hood to fill it it was still hot. But the resivor held fluid so I filled it up. Started it up and moved steering wheel it seemed to be working. So I topped it off and started on my way home.

Not evan 5 min later on highway the radiator cracked and I ended up stranded for 5hrs. Needless to say progressive sucks balls!!! After the 5 hrs wait I just end up driving a little bit and costing with it off as far as I could. After just 4 times and another hr and a half I end up just towing it the old fashioned way... from like kipling and i-76 to 120th and colorado blvd.

So now I ordered the radiator, power steering pump, new power steering resivor, ac compressor, and a new belt. I'm also going to get a new power steering return line with clamps, and a new o-ring for the resivor. I also grabbed the EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit Front and rear. (They come with slotted rotors and red stuff pads) so I'm happy she will be back on road very soon!!!
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Last edited by Juschiln19; 08-23-2017 at 03:33 AM. Reason: Tears Falling
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 Old 08-12-2017, 03:16 PM   #70
 
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Update - Power steering leak,ac opps, clutch assembly cracked

Ok so after installing everything. All seemed good but now I have new issues. The remand power steering unit I installed with new resivor with new o-ring(the one posted on here to get that's a X) and now it still leaks.

Before it would stright empty the resivor and now it only goes down to the low line from the full line.. wtf... and now I guess it got air in it. So it makes a werid noise and I have to figure out how to get that to stop and this new damn leak. I already replaced the return line hose and clamps... idk frustrated. But I'll figure it out.

Then I had help installing the ac compressor. And I replaced the condensor sock i belive it was called. And i filled up the system with freeon.. but my helper didn't tighten down the one of the hoses to the compressor all the way and after a few minutes of driving we over heated (i forgot to recheck coolant level after start) and I could hear the freeon coming out.. it sucked balls just listening to $50. Of freeon going bye bye... but fuck it u ask for help.. u get what comes with it . Screw ups and accomplishments alike... it was my little brother.. shit happens.. only wish he would have offered to buy more freeon but fuck it. So I tightened it down and rechecked everything but I haven't got more freeon yet.

The new brakes seem good so far. They are not fully broke in yet. But only been sitting 2 to 3 weeks and the rotors are already starting to rust??? Wtf, they are brand new... idk seems to have happened really fast Imo.

So when the radiatior blew apparently it did something to the guardian angle. Doesn't seem like water made it to the actual unit but you can see the dried water residue from where it blew coolant everywhere. And its almost all the way to the unit on both vacume hoses..

So I by passed the guardian angle and rebuilt and oiled the bov and the bov is working fine but when guardian angel is hooked up the bov will not blow. But what's werid is if you turn the guardian angel's setting down to 10 psi, it will blow the bov and blow off at the guardian angel unit. But once turned back to normal settings, it doesn't allow the bov to blow.. werid. So disconnected it.

And now the reason I parked it again.... So the clutch pedal assembly cracked and the pedal feels wobbly when using it.. kinda scetchy.. and the belt tensioner is making a clicking sound now with the new belt.

So I bought new belt tensioner today and new vacume hose going to see if the vacume hose was damaged with the heat from the coolant when radiator cracked. Hose looks like it has cracks in it now.. might be why guardian angel isn't working right... hoping fingers crossed...

I also bought a new clutch pedal assembly. I took it to local weld shop to get it reinforced, it costed $100 to get it welded.. working on it today hopefully it will be back on road today... I'll include a few pics of the broken clutch pedal and the new welded one. And I have a video of the power steering noise. Fingers crossed I get my baby back today!!!!

20170713_200323.jpg

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20170812_113316.jpg

20170812_113332.jpg

20170812_113343.jpg

20170812_113417.jpg

20170712_130500_97495937564597.mp4
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06 MS6 GT / Black \ Moonroof - Sure Torq Motor Mounts All(Aggressive) - Sure Diff Mounts - Sure Thermal Gaskets - DM Stage 3 Dual OCC'S - DM Pcv Vent Plate - Magnetic Oil Plug - BNR S4 V2 - Speed Proformence Tranfer Case Bearing Caps - Guardian Angel - Grimmspeed EBCS - JBR Egr Delete - Turbosmart Dual Port BOV(100% To Air) - HTP 3.5" Full Intake W/Recir. Hose Blocked - Strut Tower Bar Front - Whiteline Rear Sway Bar W/Adjustable Links - EBC Stage 4 Brake Kit F&B - Bosch 3.5 Bar Map -Autotech HPFP - CX Racing FMIC Pipe Kit W/ Tr6 Core FMIC - South Bend /Stage 2 Daily Clutch W/ Lightweight Flywheel - Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 - Block8Head Custom Triple Vent Gauge Pod - 3in1 Glow Shift Gauge (Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure) - Glow Shift Gauge (Oil Pressure W/Alarm) - One Step Colder Denso Plugs - Escort Max Radar Detector - Mazda 3(S6 Oil Cooler Delete) Oil Filter Housing - Rev 5 Front Mount Oil Cooler - Thermostatic Controlled Oil Filter Sandwich Plate W/Sensor and Oil Cooler Connections - Rotella T6 Oil - Versatuner w/Tablet - Reinforced Clutch Pedal Assembly

Last edited by Juschiln19; 08-23-2017 at 03:26 AM. Reason: Tears Falling
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 Old 08-14-2017, 01:42 AM   #71
 
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Rust on rotors is normal, that's an unprotected surface of metal prone to oxidation.
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JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, SU TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI
SP63 87.5mm 4032 9.5:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, Clevite AL main bearings, King rod bearings, CP-e safe seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
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 Old 08-20-2017, 07:04 PM   #72
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Rust on rotors is normal, that's an unprotected surface of metal prone to oxidation.
It makes sense. I guess I just never really noticed it before ...
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 Old 08-20-2017, 08:03 PM   #73
 
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Update - PRV Failure

So I put the clutch pedal assembly in. It went well. Works Great!! I can definitely feel the difference. Pedal is nice and firm now. I need to re-adjust the travel tho, It engages at a different point now and I liked it before but not a big deal. I'll adjust it here in a few days.

I put on the new serpentine belt tensioner and new belt. The other belt I just bought, got chewed up already from the roller being screwed up on the old tensioner. But the install went well. I drove it for a few days and I decided I was going to put the new tune on that I had made a few adjustments too. ( I lowered the temp the fans turn on at and I adjusted the Rev limiter to 6800 rpm[too low I know ]. And it was good. But then I hit traffic on the way to work and I hit the Rev limiter. (I set it too low. But I don't like that if u get districted that it will let it go to 8000) and when I hit the rev limiter it triggered the fuel cut.

well this happened twice unfortunately... ouch... my bad... sorry baby... oh ya... but then after the second time it wouldn't go into boost. I figured, because of the sudden surge from fuel cut happening twice that one of the boost couplers came off. Well it would drive fine as long as you stayed out of boost. If you tried, it would go to 2 - 5 lbs of boost and wouldn't go anymore and would spit and sputter. Once I got to work and checked it out, there were no boost couplers undone.... I was like huh... So on the way home after work, I tried to do a log and that's when I noticed while doing a 4th gear partial pull.(until it got to where it wouldn't go anymore) The fuel pump was only going to 400 psi at 8 to 9 lbs of boost at full throttle. So I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pressure relief valve. I never got around to replacing it yet..

so damn it... it's parked again I get paid tomarrow and ordering it then. So won't be parked long but damn it. I'm trying to do it right so it stays reliable and it's not working..... yet i'm still not pushing alot of power. Still on base tune... I think I'm just going to wait to get it on the dyno. I have to get emissions in dec. And I need to get a high flow Cat, put the egr back on and get emissions passing tune... Then after I pass and get tags I'll put the Catless back on and get a good tune....

And I made a good valet tune. That makes sure the car is a turd for any jackass that tries to joy ride it.( no boost, rev limiter cut down to 4000 rpm,) I need to get the 2 air bags switched.(recall) And I was going to get the timing chain and vvt actuator replaced along with a valve cleaning.

But not sure if I should put that money into this high milage motor. Or wait and save for new motor.. Everything I bought so far will transfer to new motor. That stuff is all around the motor.. I read that the new built motor comes with the new timing and vvt actuator.

So debating rather to just let this one be and when it goes... fuck it time for new motor lol idk. Decisions, Decisions.. I just want to do what is smarter. And not potentially waste money... Right now I don't hear any timing belt slap. And it seem to be running heathly.... I'm just thinking out lound... Thank you come again
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 Old 08-21-2017, 04:21 PM   #74
 
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Its so fucking painful to try and read your walls of text. Its like I want to engage, but just cant.
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 Old 08-21-2017, 04:45 PM   #75
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
Its so fucking painful to try and read your walls of text. Its like I want to engage, but just cant.
Hey man, I'm just trying to keep it as detailed and on point as possible. I don't mean for it to turn Into a wall of text. I'll try and keep it short and sweet. But I'm also trying to get in all the details, instead of just saying " I think my fuel PRV is broke" then people will ask questions about how I came to this conclusion and I'm just trying to have that info already in the post. so if you have questions, they are probably already answered in the post. So you can give insight...
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 Old 08-21-2017, 10:58 PM   #76
 
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Then use some text basic text formatting techniques such as phoken hitting the "Enter" key after a long phrase, or hitting it twice after you finish a paragraph.
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 Old 08-21-2017, 11:05 PM   #77
 
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Formatted text inside the quote:
Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Update - PRV Failure

So I put the clutch pedal assembly in. It went well. Works Great!! I can definitely feel the difference. Pedal is nice and firm now. I need to re-adjust the travel tho, It engages at a different point now and I liked it before but not a big deal. I'll adjust it here in a few days.

And I put on the new serpentine belt tensioner and new belt. The other belt I just bought, got chewed up already from the roller being screwed up on the old tensioner. But it went well.

I drove it for a few days and I decided I was going to put the new tune on that I had made a few adjustments too. ( I lowered the temp the fans turn on at and I adjusted the Rev limiter to 6800 rpm[too low I know ]. And it was good.
But then I hit traffic on the way to work and I hit the Rev limiter. (I set it too low. But I don't like that if u get districted that it will let it go to 8000) and when I hit the rev limiter it triggered the fuel cut.
Well this happened twice unfortunately... ouch... my bad... sorry baby... oh ya... but then after the second time it wouldn't go into boost.
I figured, because of the sudden surge from fuel cut happening twice that one of the boost couplers came off. Well it would drive fine as long as you stayed out of boost. If you tried, it would go to 2 - 5 lbs of boost and wouldn't go anymore and would spit and sputter.

Once I got to work and checked it out, there were no boost couplers undone.... I was like huh... So on the way home after work, I tried to do a log and that's when I noticed while doing a 4th gear partial pull.(until it got to where it wouldn't go anymore)
The fuel pump was only going to 400 psi at 8 to 9 lbs of boost at full throttle. So I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pressure relief valve. I never got around to replacing it yet.. so damn it... it's parked again I get paid tomarrow and ordering it then.

So won't be parked long but damn it. I'm trying to do it right so it stays reliable and it's not working..... yet still not pushing alot of power. Still on base tune... I think I'm just going to wait to get it on the dyno.

I have to get emissions in dec. And I need to get a high flow Cat, put the egr back on and get emissions passing tune... Then after I pass and get tags I'll put the Catless back on and get a good tune.... plus I made a good valet tune. That makes sure the car is a turd for any jackass that tries to joy ride it.( no boost, rev limiter cut down to 4000 rpm,)

I need to get the 2 air bags switched.(recall) And I was going to get the timing chain and vvt actuator replaced along with a valve cleaning. But not sure if I should put that money into this high milage motor.

Everything I bought so far will transfer to new motor. That stuff is all around the motor.. I read that the new built motor comes with the new timing and vvt actuator. So debating rather to just let this one be and when it goes... fuck it time for new motor lol idk. Decisions, Decisions.. I just want to do what is smarter.

Right now I don't hear any timing belt slap. And seem to run heathly.... Just thinking out lound... Thank you come again
Now that I formatted the text for you I'm wondering why did you buy a new engine if the current one still runs good?
And damn... you're injecting a lot of crap into these texts... like a chat between 10 people sitting at a large table and drinking their 7th beer already.
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JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, SU TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI
SP63 87.5mm 4032 9.5:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, Clevite AL main bearings, King rod bearings, CP-e safe seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
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 Old 08-22-2017, 03:20 AM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Formatted text inside the quote:


Now that I formatted the text for you I'm wondering why did you buy a new engine if the current one still runs good?
And damn... you're injecting a lot of crap into these texts... like a chat between 10 people sitting at a large table and drinking their 7th beer already.

Proper grammar usage.. ???

That's it??

BUMMER...
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 Old 08-22-2017, 03:33 AM   #79
 
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FUK it

Get bent
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 Old 08-22-2017, 04:32 AM   #80
 
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Wait wtf.. I never bought a new motor... huh...
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