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 Old 09-14-2017, 07:52 AM   #121
 
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Ok, so that event is described here: 06 MS6 - Stock Block/Internals Build - Pushing The Limits

Hitting the rev limiter and having fuelling issues at the same time may not be that good. I think it's time for a compression test...
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 Old 09-14-2017, 11:52 AM   #122
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Ok, so that event is described here: 06 MS6 - Stock Block/Internals Build - Pushing The Limits

Hitting the rev limiter and having fuelling issues at the same time may not be that good. I think it's time for a compression test...
That's my thread lol...
I didn't have fuel issues before I hit the rev limiter.... but I'll do the compression test this weekend..along with a few other things.. (boost leak test/feeling for anything loose)

I would be shocked if it was a loss of compression. It drives great!!! I'm honestly still leaning towards something loose knocking around and the knock sensor is picking it up. Wouldn't you feel the lack of power if it was compression or alot of knock??? I'm saying it don't feel like anything is wrong. I just keep getting lean off and on idle and kr in the log... if it weren't for that I'd think it was back to normal...

Damn car..lol
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 Old 09-14-2017, 12:45 PM   #123
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
That's my thread lol...
That's THIS thread...

He's just referencing an earlier post.
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 Old 09-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #124
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
That's THIS thread...

He's just referencing an earlier post.
I know that's what I thought was funny.. he re-referenced the same post... Its still funny. I guess more so that for some reason I expected him to have referenced another thread or post that the same situation happened that had a resolution And it was my own.. I was like what.. yeah I'm experiencing it now lol..
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 Old 09-15-2017, 01:19 AM   #125
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
I would be shocked if it was a loss of compression. It drives great!!! I'm honestly still leaning towards something loose knocking around and the knock sensor is picking it up. Wouldn't you feel the lack of power if it was compression or alot of knock???
I don't want to say it this or that, but when I had cracked ringlands on 2 pistons the car was doing a bit more torque (like 12-14lb*ft) but a bit less power (about 10bhp). The only symptom was the oil consumption, about one quart every 1400-1600 miles. And yes, the car drove great.
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 Old 09-15-2017, 11:50 AM   #126
 
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Well I fucked around with newer wrx dude said it was stock. We did a 30 roll, a 60 roll and from a dig. I lost the 60 (still getting used to brake boosting) and from a dig. I turn traction control off and I heard him 2 step I enjoyed the 30 roll tho lol this was the 30 roll

20170915_022657_001_001.mp4

I'll just do a good run thru everything this weekend...
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 Old 09-15-2017, 12:44 PM   #127
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
I don't want to say it this or that, but when I had cracked ringlands on 2 pistons the car was doing a bit more torque (like 12-14lb*ft) but a bit less power (about 10bhp). The only symptom was the oil consumption, about one quart every 1400-1600 miles. And yes, the car drove great.
Idk I'm not experiencing the oil issue.. I'm just doing the once over and going from there...

I think its werid that with 2 cracked ringlands that your car is driving better.. besides the oil issue. ..
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 Old 09-17-2017, 10:14 PM   #128
 
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Update- still knocking - did compression test

Ok so I did a compression test
146 dry driver side
150 wet
146 dry 2nd to left
155 wet
146 dry 3rd from left
159 wet
155 dry passenger side
165 wet

I live in colorado, So It PASSED !!!!
Not gunna lie, When you said "time for compression test.." I was like what....

Then I removed and fixed the heat shield, so it won't get in way of the wastegate arm. I looked around and couldn't find anything loose in the engine bay. So I drove and put it in 3rd and just kept tapping the gas pedal to make the engine and car jerk each time with versatuner dashboard open so I could see if the knock sensor reacted and got nothing...

I did 3 logs in 4th to compare if the knock is always happening at the same point and it's not. But now I'm noticing it happens in closed loop while just cursing. Like 3500 to 4000 rpm in 4th or 3500 rpm 5th gear. which when you are cursing at 75mph you are at, causes anywhere from 3 to 5 kr. Not wot just regular driving...

And I'm still getting lean codes as well. So I guess I'm looking to order the in tank fuel pump. And if that don't fix it. Then I'll be looking for a new or used hpfp. I need the nut that the hpfp piston goes thru. I'm going to go with my gut and I think the rubber pieces that are in that piece soaked up brake cleaner during the 3 cleaning and that's what's causing the fuel issue. Well i still have issues but the engine is still heathly!!!
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 Old 09-18-2017, 06:29 AM   #129
 
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KR during normal driving is kind of ok, even though such high values cam have their origins in various issues, such as:
- using a gas with an a lot lower octane than what your ignition maps are designed for;
- an exhaust leak - this would also explain the lean codes you're getting;
- intake leaks pre-turbo.

If you have any logs just post them, I'll have a look at them as soon as I can.
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StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

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TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
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 Old 09-18-2017, 12:57 PM   #130
 
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So here are the logs... Tne last "4th gear pull" is ether a 4th gear pull or a 5th gear pull I did in accident... I think its another 4th gear pull. Couldnt really tell looking at the logs.. I left the one I think is the 5th gear pull off...

Also while looking at my base tune the maf cal that the guy put on there is off a little. So I made a copy of the map and put in the correct maf cal you find on mazdaspeed fourms big maf cal page. And when I drive with that one it feels like your making it go. It's lost its get up. Don't feel right... feels like the one mituc edited... but what is werid is when I look at the maf cal on the one mituc edited it was different from the one found on mazdaspeed fourm and the one from the original base tune. Did the tuner I got the base tune from change the base maf cal to make up for the high altitude?? Just a thought I had. Because when I put the original base tune back on it feels great..


new logs 9 16 17.zip
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 Old 09-19-2017, 12:26 AM   #131
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
So here are the logs... Tne last "4th gear pull" is ether a 4th gear pull or a 5th gear pull I did in accident... I think its another 4th gear pull. Couldnt really tell looking at the logs.. I left the one I think is the 5th gear pull off...
Ok, so no more monster KR of 3-4 degrees above 4.5-5k rpm... good, so whatever you tighten or repositioned fixed the issue which thankfully seems to have been mechanical knock. The current timing tables seem to be appropriate for the fuel you're using though, so it's good.

However, you hit those load targets still with 0% WGDC which is far from optimal, basically this means there is no boost control. You need to dial back the wastegate arm of you can.

The fuel trims are off by quite a lot. The engine is pulling air somehow... you need to re-check all the hoses and clamps, including the ones from the EBCS which is either hooked up incorrectly or just not working.

The intake manifold absolute pressure tops at 29.2PSI in your logs. Make sure that on the Versatuner logging dashboard the MAP sensor calibration is correct. Is has to be changed there as well for logging, not only in the tune where from it will not be imported automatically.

The MAF cal can be adjusted for the altitude you're at but the difference should be within the ECU logic adaptation interval.

I never touched your MAF cal, just compare the tune you've sent me (1.01) with the 1.02 I sent you back.
However, the car may feel different and react differently when you flash a new tune and give you the initial impression that with the newly flashed tune things are better, but once it adapts to all everything it can adapt to (including defects) the way it runs will change as well as the engine/exhaust tone. You may simply have a lose clamp somewhere that is getting worse with the engine movement.
And there's the EBCS which is just sitting there... and I'm wondering if you're not drawing unmeasured air through one of its punctured or disconnected hoses... or some EGR line which was not capped.
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 Old 09-19-2017, 04:50 AM   #132
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Ok, so no more monster KR of 3-4 degrees above 4.5-5k rpm... good, so whatever you tighten or repositioned fixed the issue which thankfully seems to have been mechanical knock. The current timing tables seem to be appropriate for the fuel you're using though, so it's good.

However, you hit those load targets still with 0% WGDC which is far from optimal, basically this means there is no boost control. You need to dial back the wastegate arm of you can.

The fuel trims are off by quite a lot. The engine is pulling air somehow... you need to re-check all the hoses and clamps, including the ones from the EBCS which is either hooked up incorrectly or just not working.

The intake manifold absolute pressure tops at 29.2PSI in your logs. Make sure that on the Versatuner logging dashboard the MAP sensor calibration is correct. Is has to be changed there as well for logging, not only in the tune where from it will not be imported automatically.

The MAF cal can be adjusted for the altitude you're at but the difference should be within the ECU logic adaptation interval.

I never touched your MAF cal, just compare the tune you've sent me (1.01) with the 1.02 I sent you back.
However, the car may feel different and react differently when you flash a new tune and give you the initial impression that with the newly flashed tune things are better, but once it adapts to all everything it can adapt to (including defects) the way it runs will change as well as the engine/exhaust tone. You may simply have a lose clamp somewhere that is getting worse with the engine movement.
And there's the EBCS which is just sitting there... and I'm wondering if you're not drawing unmeasured air through one of its punctured or disconnected hoses... or some EGR line which was not capped.
I'm glad I'm not getting the 5 kr in wot too lol... but I hate that basiclly when driving now I have to keep the engine in the high rev 4000 rpm or more to stay away from where it knocking. I'll adjust the wastegate arm and see what that gets me.

I did a boost leak test while I was doing the compression test. So I think fmic setup is good. I'll check ebcs hoses again I did change those... but if the ebcs hoses were leaking wouldn't I be over boosting still. Right now I'm hitting 18 to 19 psi on point..

And about the map sensor settings. They are all right. What's werid is when I first Installed the new updated versatuner it wouldn't read the right boost psi. It would say you were at -7 vacuum at idle(on point) but when you would do a log and hit 18 to 19 psi in a wot log it would you only hit 2 psi (way off) on that with the map sensor set to the boush 3.5 map sensor. But what's werid is over time the boost readings would change and a 18 to 19 psi wot log would register as 7 or 9 psi. And then one day it will read on point. It's so werid. So now the boost readings are on point. I just forgot to switch back to the boost PID

So when I was getting the whole bnr s4 setup. I asked the tuner which occ I should get and he sent me this

file.jpeg

So I ordered this one
Screenshot_2017-09-19-04-17-22-1.jpg

Screenshot_2017-09-19-04-15-58-1.jpg

Screenshot_2017-09-19-04-16-34-1.jpg

But like it shows in the details. You have to tune for it. But when I asked the tuner if the base tune he sent me was modified for it. He acted like it doesn't need it. But like he's tuned with the setup before and haven't had an issue..

But ever since I over boosted to 26psi. I've had a new smell. Smells like oil vapors so i thought something was messed up with occ setup or the pvc plate and connections. But all looks good . But I opened the hood and smelled around and it smells like it's coming out the drivers side occ that is vented. So l was wondering if this extra a it issue would happen if the check valve for the occ setup went bad from over boosting???
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 Old 09-19-2017, 05:10 AM   #133
 
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I didn't tune for my OCCs. Runs fine.
And I vented the other can, so that both cans are functioning in boost...when you need it most.
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 Old 09-19-2017, 07:22 AM   #134
 
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Adding an OCC for the valve cover is something I'd do for 500+Hp cars. But ok, having this for lower hp cars doesn't hurt, it's just another complication.

The fact that you're overboosting, or at least boosting quite high with 0 WGDC is not a problem generated by the catch cans themselves, however, during the install there's a chance something was changed in other areas.

When you take logs for adjusting the tune it's the MAP that matters, not boost. However, if you add boost I think you have to change the MAP sensor settings for that as well.
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 Old 09-19-2017, 09:49 PM   #135
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Adding an OCC for the valve cover is something I'd do for 500+Hp cars. But ok, having this for lower hp cars doesn't hurt, it's just another complication.

The fact that you're overboosting, or at least boosting quite high with 0 WGDC is not a problem generated by the catch cans themselves, however, during the install there's a chance something was changed in other areas.

When you take logs for adjusting the tune it's the MAP that matters, not boost. However, if you add boost I think you have to change the MAP sensor settings for that as well.

I just asked the tuner which occ setup I should be looking and he sent the perm pic that shows the same setup as I got.... so what would i have to do if anything to deal with the extra complication of a occ on the valve cover?

What is also werid is before I had overboosting issues id get oil only in the driver side (valve cover) occ and now I get oil only in the passenger side occ. Just thought that was werid. That's also why I was wondering what would happen if the check valve for the occ setup went out...

But I'm not over boosting anymore. The guy I got tune from said I should be around 18 to 19 psi (spring pressure) with the base tune. I'm hitting 18 to 19 on point. I was more thinking the occ setup was the cause of the extra air getting in and making it lean maybe. It if that's not possible that's fine. I didn't change anything. I just added the pvc plate and hooked up the hoses like shown in diagram...


I'll double check everything g while trying to adjust the wastegate arm.. which way am I adjusting the nut on the wastegate arm? Towards the drives side or towards the passengers side?? I appreciate the help!!!

Hey can you post a log so I can see what a normal looking log looks like. (With proper wastegate fuctionality, and everything. With a brief of you current setup) So I know what your running as compared to mine

Or can anyone with a bnr s4 setup post a log I'd really appreciate it. I just want to see what it should. ook like after a proper tune is on.

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
I didn't tune for my OCCs. Runs fine.
And I vented the other can, so that both cans are functioning in boost...when you need it most.
Good to know thanks

Nice I didn't know you could or should run 2 vented occ's
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 Old 09-19-2017, 11:47 PM   #136
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Hey can you post a log so I can see what a normal looking log looks like. (With proper wastegate fuctionality, and everything. With a brief of you current setup) So I know what your running as compared to mine

Or can anyone with a bnr s4 setup post a log I'd really appreciate it. I just want to see what it should. ook like after a proper tune is on.
You need to increase the length of the wastegate arm, yours is too short now and makes the wastegate open way too late for what you need or for what the EBCS can handle.

I don't have a log from a BNR S4 but I have a log from someone I worked with having a 3MPS/Mazdaspeed3 with a CS turbo which is about the same size, spool and response time as an S4. See the attachment.

P.S.: I didn't get that, what tuner did you work with? You keep mentioning "the tuner" and I'm curious who is that tuning you while you're having major issues with the car which could potentially lead to an $7-8k bill.
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Attached Files
File Type: csv Data log - 2017-07-29 11.14.57.csv (9.5 KB, 7 views)
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 Old 09-20-2017, 12:25 AM   #137
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
You need to increase the length of the wastegate arm, yours is too short now and makes the wastegate open way too late for what you need or for what the EBCS can handle.

I don't have a log from a BNR S4 but I have a log from someone I worked with having a 3MPS/Mazdaspeed3 with a CS turbo which is about the same size, spool and response time as an S4. See the attachment.

P.S.: I didn't get that, what tuner did you work with? You keep mentioning "the tuner" and I'm curious who is that tuning you while you're having major issues with the car which could potentially lead to an $7-8k bill.
P.S.2: considering the amount of help and assistance you get for free you should consider donating to the forum as well.

Let me say for starters that I'm not actively tuning with anyone. I got this base tune when I set up a dyno tune but after having driver issues with the cable on my pc and his. It got canceled. But everything I'm referencing I'm referring to what Alan Jackson at edge autosports said to me in regards to the tune. Or other questions about it I had. this is what it said with the base map he sent me

"Hey Branden, here is the base map. Let me know if you have any issues on it. The MAF won't be calibrated perfectly but it should be close enough to get you running safely. I scaled for the 3 Bar MAP Sensor, and i have your wastegate duty cycles set to 0%. It may climb to 10% with the corrections that get applied, but the car should only be able to hit 18 to 19 psi on this map.—"
I'll Glace at the log thanks
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 Old 09-20-2017, 12:55 AM   #138
 
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Ah, ok, so he sent you a base tune and never had the chance of reviewing what was actually going on. Got it!
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 Old 09-20-2017, 03:24 AM   #139
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
I've sent you a map on the VT forum, try that one and see if the lower timing gets you anywhere.
Can I just take the map you edited ans put the timing values back to what they were on the base tune and just use that one that has everything else fixed?? Or do I need to change something else with it?
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 Old 09-20-2017, 05:08 AM   #140
 
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When I try to view the log its numbers all scrambled together. Do u know how to fix
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 Old 09-20-2017, 05:11 AM   #141
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
...its numbers all scrambled together.
To the untrained eye.
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 Old 09-20-2017, 05:21 AM   #142
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
To the untrained eye.


20170920_051718.jpg
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 Old 09-20-2017, 05:24 AM   #143
 
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Oh. Hahaha. For some reason, your excel isn't converting it. There's surely a setting somewhere that needs to be changed.
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2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
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 Old 09-20-2017, 05:27 AM   #144
 
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Try this...
Attached Images
File Type: png Screenshot_2017-09-20-07-29-12.png (223.7 KB, 2 views)
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-20-2017, 05:40 AM   #145
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Try this...
Thanks bro
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 Old 09-20-2017, 12:30 PM   #146
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Can I just take the map you edited ans put the timing values back to what they were on the base tune and just use that one that has everything else fixed?? Or do I need to change something else with it?
No, you don't need to change anything else, just the timing tables that differ.

Make sure you add an alarm on the versatuner dashboard for KR higher than 2, make sure that is an audible alarm loud enough, and make sure you STOP accelerating if that occurs after more than like 2 seconds of WOT.
Judging by the logs you posted earlier I think the timing values that are in there (91OCT) are more appropriate for the fuel you're running, so I'd take it gradually rather than just switching to 93OCT timing.
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 Old 09-22-2017, 03:04 AM   #147
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
No, you don't need to change anything else, just the timing tables that differ.

Make sure you add an alarm on the versatuner dashboard for KR higher than 2, make sure that is an audible alarm loud enough, and make sure you STOP accelerating if that occurs after more than like 2 seconds of WOT.
Judging by the logs you posted earlier I think the timing values that are in there (91OCT) are more appropriate for the fuel you're running, so I'd take it gradually rather than just switching to 93OCT timing.
Ok so I guess I never clarified.. after I flashed the tune you edited. The car rans rough. I know you said you didn't change anything in closed loop. But I'm saying it's night and day from the base tune to the one you edited. It drives like the car is running bad. Like all the sudden you would think you need a tune up or something.... and with the base tune it's not like that at all. You wouldn't evan think there wqs any kr at all... Honestly I missed read what you put on the varsatuner fourm and I thought you took out timing and load targets to help with over boost. And since I'm not over boosting and it seemed to make the car run bad for some reason. I just put the base tune back on.

I know you said how bad it was. But I'm telling you something is wrong with the one you edited... the car runs bad.. so I took the base tunes timing and copied it to the one you edited and it still drives bad. Feels horrible. Like something is wrong...

Still getting knock that I didn't have before the fuel cut issue.
Tho like youve seen in the logs it seems ro have moved from WOT open loop to closed loop.

How do you test if the Injector seals went??? I haven't gotten around to getting those yet.. I know I need them soon.. but if that's not the fix I need the fix now..

Idk. I'm still getting knock and it seems to be around 3000 to 3500-3600 ish rpm and it's anywhere from 2 to 5 kr....
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 Old 09-22-2017, 08:08 AM   #148
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Ok so I guess I never clarified.. after I flashed the tune you edited. The car rans rough. I know you said you didn't change anything in closed loop. But I'm saying it's night and day from the base tune to the one you edited. It drives like the car is running bad. Like all the sudden you would think you need a tune up or something....
Ok, I think I've mentioned this before, but flash again the original tune you've sent me then (v1.01?), the one before modifications. With LTFTs around 20 (or even 0 because it never learns as the STFTs are above the threshold) I doubt it will run different, but you never know.
But since it's easy to spot the differences and you one can clearly see that the changes and from that point to interpreting them and determining their impact it's just a blink of an eye.

With the advice you've got from here and with the tune I've sent at least don't get that monster KR anymore, real or false.
From this point on I'll let you explore the limits of the stock block which now without 4-5KR at WOT are a bit farther, so you're out of the woods for now.
Fix the wastegate and the leaks you have and you'll have even more headroom to turn everything one notch up and explore the limits further more.
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 Old 09-26-2017, 01:07 PM   #149
 
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Ok.... so I checked the intake. (Tightened everything down), besides removing and redoing the seals on the htp intake for the holes, one for the valve cover and one for the ebcs... I'm going to redo that too I guess.. might as well

So anyway I took the heat shield off the exhaust manifold and started the car I could smell exhaust. But I soon realized it was coming from the gasket between the 3" dp and the stock Cat back. So threw in one I had laying around . Not a great one but hopefully better then the last... and after that I started the car again. And I couldn't smell anymore exhaust.

But I assume that the type of exhaust leak that would cause a issue would be before the O2 sensor. So (exhaust manifold gasket, Turbo to mani gasket or the dp to turbo gasket)

And I don't smell exhaust anymore so I think that's is good and I ordered a 12 layer gasket for the dp to Cat back.. waiting for that to come in.. but after the install of the gasket I had laying around it wasn't leaking. And I still have knock.

I looked up what to look for if the Injector seals went out and I'm reading it would make a loud knocking the you would be able to hear like rod knock. And I don't hear anything unusual when car is running..

So I might have figured it out. So when I put on new hoses for the ebcs I had issues with the nipple that comes out of the turbo for the hose for the ebcs it was slightly pointed down(towards the couple for the intake) and regular thin rubber vacume hose Bearly went on And with the thicker hose, I couldn't get it on . So I figured I would bend it just slightly.. to be able to get hose on but not enough to close it or anything. But when I went to bend it I had to use pliers and instead of it bending... it rotated just a little bit.. and I thought I f'ed it up but I tried moving it with my hand I and it wouldn't move. So i put hose on and moved on.. but now I'm wondering if that's the issue?

Going to look into it... after that the next test I guess is to by pass the ebcs and see if the leak was at the ebcs hoses

And I found and been reading this, it's interesting : Knock Retard Analysis
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 Old 09-26-2017, 07:37 PM   #150
 
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The injector seals can cause that kind of KR under load, indeed. But they have to be really bad.
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 Old 10-09-2017, 10:48 PM   #151
 
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Ok so after redoing the seals for the htp intake for the ebcs and the one for the valve cover. Then I by-passed the ebcs, so it's going stright to the wastegate. I evan took off the vent on the drivers side ooc. Just in case it was the check valve for the occ.

The car still has kr in 3rd, 4th and 5th in between 3000 and 4000 rpm. And getting anywhere up to 5 kr. I messaged Alan the guy I got the base map from. He said " kr at partial throttle is normal" and that "its more important if it happens at WOT. "

IDK, I drove the car Sunday night, the temps were in the 30's and the car was running like crap. The Idle would drop after coming off throttle. And almost die at a light. And when u would go it was like before where it would go then a half second later the car would pick up like it's supposed too. But seemed worse... I figured it was because the airs cold, so if there's a leak of unmettered air getting in it would Intensify the problem that unmettered air causes..

So since I'm just chasing my tail at this point.. I just ordered the injectors seals... I went with cork sport since I read the cpe seals require extra sealent and to me seems werid.. if the CS's don't need it..

I was talking to a buddy at work that has a wrx. He goes to a shop in fort collins. And he was having simular kr and they did a smoke test and found the problem. So i'm going to give it a shot this coming Friday and hope if it's not the Injector seals, that this will find the problem... God I'm hoping ether the Injector seals or this smoke test gets me over this kr bs.... So I can drive my baby again.

I parked it again since I can't seem to track down the cause of the kr.... I know Alan said at partial throttle kr is normal but the car has to have a air leak or a fuel issue still... idk Sooo Frustrated!!!...

I tried to put on the grimmspeed 3" 12 layer downpipe to cat back exhaust gasket but it didn't work. I put it on really tight but it was leaking on top and bottom of the gasket so I had to put the old one back on. Im.not sure why it didn't work the tread I saw it on. The guy was using it for same setup. 3 " Down Pipe to stock 2.5" Cat back... idk what the issue is.
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 Old 11-17-2017, 02:51 PM   #152
 
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Just read pretty much this whole thread. Your KR situation seems very normal for the speed 6. The knock sensors/ECUs on the speed6 and early speed3 are very sensitive compared to later gen1s and gen2s. I usually get 5-6 sometimes 7 KR at part (25-45%) throttle in my 2007 speed3, but under WOT it never exceeds 1. There is a post on here by Lex from Stratified that goes into more detail about it but I'm too lazy to find it right now.

The cause of the KR you're seeing is most likely just mechanical noise triggering the sensitive knock sensor, and thats totally fine.
If you see KR exceed 2.00 during a WOT pull in any gear, fill your tank with 1 gallon of E85 (If its available to you) and fill up the rest of the tank with 91 or whatever fuel you use for your tune. If you still see KR >2 either: Your fuel is shit, you have a bent rod, or your vvt actuator is on it's way out.

Bottom line is any # KR under partial throttle = Totally Normal, <2 WOT = Totally Normal, >2 WOT = Bad Bad Bad
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 Old 11-18-2017, 11:35 AM   #153
 
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Originally Posted by flapjack View Post
Just read pretty much this whole thread. Your KR situation seems very normal for the speed 6. The knock sensors/ECUs on the speed6 and early speed3 are very sensitive compared to later gen1s and gen2s. I usually get 5-6 sometimes 7 KR at part (25-45%) throttle in my 2007 speed3, but under WOT it never exceeds 1. There is a post on here by Lex from Stratified that goes into more detail about it but I'm too lazy to find it right now.

The cause of the KR you're seeing is most likely just mechanical noise triggering the sensitive knock sensor, and thats totally fine.
If you see KR exceed 2.00 during a WOT pull in any gear, fill your tank with 1 gallon of E85 (If its available to you) and fill up the rest of the tank with 91 or whatever fuel you use for your tune. If you still see KR >2 either: Your fuel is shit, you have a bent rod, or your vvt actuator is on it's way out.

Bottom line is any # KR under partial throttle = Totally Normal, <2 WOT = Totally Normal, >2 WOT = Bad Bad Bad

Hey thanks man, I appreciate the help!! I'm waiting for the washers that go above and below the fuel injector o-rings and then she will be back on the road. I'll do some more logs and try the e85. Thanks again!!
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 Old 12-29-2017, 02:06 PM   #154
 
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Ok so I got the seals in she's driving again. I'm still having a issue with the first start up. And it dying like 4 to 6 time before wanting to stay running.. only first start of the day.. but besides that it's running good. Did a log and it was good both 3rd and 4th gears pulls results were under 1.0 kr.. here's a few logs I included the first start up issue log. Might just be I'm in the base tune but didn't have issue until few months ago (after a few months with no issue - same tune , same everything)

3rd gear pull (.35° Kr).csv

4th gear pull (.70° Kr).csv

rough 1st start (6 key turns to stay running).csv
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 Old 12-30-2017, 02:27 AM   #155
 
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The 3rd and 4th gear pulls look very good, nothing to say there. That ignition retard of under 1 degree is absolutely fine, it's just an indication that in those areas you're on the knock limit which means maximum efficiency.

About the rough start... Look at the STFTs there, they're above 25. You either have a bad primary O2 sensor (more likely dirty, because otherwise it looks fine in the WOT pulls), some corroded connector which starts working fine once warm.
For starters I'd cap the VTA port of your dual-port BOV, I bet that is the root cause. If it's not that check other hoses that can lead to a vacuum leak (EBCS, valve cover breather port, and so on).
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 Old 02-08-2019, 12:17 PM   #156
 
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Update - Brief Overview- Replaced - clutch, master and slave cylinders, throw out bearing, rear brakes (pads and rotors twice), and the passenger rear caliper, broke bolt housing on transmission, totalled and rebuilt car, figured out hesitating issue


Well it's been awhile...
The speed has been thru alot in the last year.

This is the adventure we been on in this last year alone.

-Throw out bearing failed and became a pancake(wasn't evan messing around when it happened)

-Upgraded clutch to Southbend Stage 3 Endurance and replaced throw out bearing, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and changed the transmission fluid.

-In a rush to finish I over torqued the upper fill bolt for transmission and snapped the bolt housing..😣☹ I redrained the transmission down well below the fill bolt hole and cleaned it very well and jb welded it really good and left the car sitting for 3 days to let the jb weld fully cure. Refilled and tightened the bolt to snug.

Im going to replace the transmission when I get back where I should be financially. But that was 6 months ago and it's still holding strong

-Replaced the rear rotors and pads due to right rear eatting thru pads (twice)

-Replaced right rear caliper, due to it still eatting thru pads (only the right rear seats thru pads)

-Upgraded rim's to gen 2's that came with newer tires.

-To my disappointment I fell asleep at the wheel after a long week of no sleep and 12hr days and ran into a 4runner at a light at about 45mph (The crash bar took the 4runners hitch and stopped the rest of the front end from impact.)

-Bought car back from Insurance. Replaced everything. Front bumper, hood, passenger side headlight, crash bar, radiator, ac condenser, fan assembly, radiator support, front mount oil cooler,driver seat belt assembly

She's back on the road and driving well. But after recently driving in snow storm its apparent that there is indeed frame damage.(it continuously pulls left but with the rear end continuously fish tailing) (i could feel it had a little more left pull when driving in dry conditions but i had been driving a different car for 2 months and was getting use to driving her again) I need to get a alignment for now but get this fixed in very very near future.

-Had a issue with it hesitating when trying to go WOT after a recent rain storm. Kept cleaning the MAF with same issues. But I finally figured it out that I needed to clean the MAP sensor and it fixed it. I think I need to get one of those hydro shields. I have the under tray removed. This issue started one day when I was hauling ass running late to work in a rain storm. I drive a hr to work.

-Power steering still leaks, has to be the o-ring I bought the star o-ring that was suggested on the fourm when I replaced the whole pump with new resivor. It was supposed to seal better. But it still leaks.

-New issue - driver side front tire shakes when applying brakes hard but will not shake at all during driving. I did snap a wheel lug on that wheel. So I figured thats what it was. but it got worse quick, it shakes alot now. The rest if the lug nuts are tight. I plan on doing this really really soon as well.

Honesty I want to park it as soon as can and start pouring money into it. It's been a daily getting beat on for a year now with no funds for up keep and it's starting to show. She needs alot of love. I will be getting shit done really soon. I just wanted to put a update in. It's been awhile and it saddens me I haven't been able to take care of her better. I Appreciate all the help I've gotten here...Thank you!!🤟🤙😋👌👍👊

Here's pictures of the car after my accident, a few pics during the repair process. And a few pics of the car as it looks now

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: bigok:
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 Old 02-08-2019, 12:43 PM   #157
 
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Wow! Sorry to hear about the bad luck with the accident. Hopefully you've got it back close to prior condition.

My first thought is that you do need to find a new under tray and put it back in place and find out the cause of the problem with the brakes. Perhaps you have a rotor or caliper damage or even the hub damaged from the accident. And, yes, get that lug replaced ASAP.
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 Old 02-08-2019, 01:30 PM   #158
 
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Originally Posted by MSMS3 View Post
Wow! Sorry to hear about the bad luck with the accident. Hopefully you've got it back close to prior condition.

My first thought is that you do need to find a new under tray and put it back in place and find out the cause of the problem with the brakes. Perhaps you have a rotor or caliper damage or even the hub damaged from the accident. And, yes, get that lug replaced ASAP.
Thanks Bro... I'm soo glad the crash bar saved the car from serious frame damage. The frame damage I got is very small. The new crash bar bolted right up. And you saw the old one. And yes on the under tray, and the lug replacement.

As for the brakes the tire is the passenger read tire. So it's not from this accident but I did slide into a curb on the whole right side. Like a year and a half ago. But it was fixed at a shop. I wonder if that's the problem. It bent the hub but wouldn't it not go back together when doing a brake job. Like new rotor and pad wouldn't go back on because the brake caliper bracket would be bent. I'm not sure.

Im going to look into this.. thanks bro. I love when someone gives a new perspective. I just replaced the caliper and did a warranty exchange because ever since I put the 1st new caliper on the ebrake sticks when it's really cold. The new caliper doesn't so far... I appreciate the insight and help man
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
Thanks Bro... I'm soo glad the crash bar saved the car from serious frame damage. The frame damage I got is very small. The new crash bar bolted right up. And you saw the old one. And yes on the under tray, and the lug replacement.

As for the brakes the tire is the passenger read tire. So it's not from this accident but I did slide into a curb on the whole right side. Like a year and a half ago. But it was fixed at a shop. I wonder if that's the problem. It bent the hub but wouldn't it not go back together when doing a brake job. Like new rotor and pad wouldn't go back on because the brake caliper bracket would be bent. I'm not sure.

Im going to look into this.. thanks bro. I love when someone gives a new perspective. I just replaced the caliper and did a warranty exchange because ever since I put the 1st new caliper on the ebrake sticks when it's really cold. The new caliper doesn't so far... I appreciate the insight and help man
Your car is pulling to one side as the subframe has probably shifted from impact. You will know which way it needs to rotate after you get an alignment. The caster on one side will be far less than the other.
The remedy is to loosen the subframe and adjust it to one side. Take measurements before and during. I did mine by using a ratchet strap attached to a chain that wrapped around a supporting post in my garage. You wont be able to move it by hand.

I'd also take it to a frame shop and have it checked over. Just to be safe.

Anyhow, good luck and make sure its safe before putting it back on the road. Your car could start its own soap opera! Lol.
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 Old 02-14-2019, 01:05 AM   #160
 
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Originally Posted by Juschiln19 View Post
-New issue - driver side front tire shakes when applying brakes hard but will not shake at all during driving. I did snap a wheel lug on that wheel. So I figured thats what it was. but it got worse quick, it shakes alot now. The rest if the lug nuts are tight. I plan on doing this really really soon as well.
The shaking under braking will go away only after you replace the brake disks as well. You need to replace them both because replacing only the wrapped one may lead to other things.
__________________
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, SU TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM
SP63 87.5mm 4032 9.5:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, Clevite AL main bearings, King rod bearings, CP-e safe seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI
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