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 Old 06-28-2017, 08:37 AM   #1
 
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Talking AJKulish's build thread

As some of you may know, I had some shit luck and a valve seat shattered unexpectedly, mashing my piston faces and scraping up my cylinder walls. I also recently graduated and got salaried so its time to say fuck it. Lets build this thing.

Last summer I bought a 06 VRM MS6 after wrecking the genwon and fell in love. So much more sophisticated of a vehicle, IMO. It is a very clean shell, has only seen one winter, no rust, straight body, etc. So it is the perfect candidate to pour money into. I acknowledge that i will never get my money back on this thing, so I figured why not just throw money at it and really enjoy it before i move on.

My work owns and operates an engine shop, very popular in the Viper community, Arrow Racing Engines. So I took my block there for inspection and machining. I also took full advantage of the huge discount we get on parts through my employer. I believe, at this point, I have everything needed to put this build together. The purchased list is as follows

GTX3076r
Manley Rods
Manley Pistons
Stage 1 OEM rebuild kit with bolts (edge)
AEM WMI w/ Damond Motorsports spacer
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch with streelite flywheel
CX Racing FMIC
Massive speed BSD
JBR TB gasket
ATP turbo line kit
3 bar map sensor w/ harness
OEM Water pump
AEM Uego Wideband
Prosport Evo boost
Prosport Evo oil pressure with Damond motorsports adapter
3 inch intake (forgot brand)
Darton repair sleeve (for strange inclusion in bore)

I am certain that there is more, but this is this the running list i have been keeping. I also have been doing a mild port and polish on my replacement cylinder head. I put more emphasis on opening up the exhaust ports, but was more-so just port matching the intake runners. I also now have very clean valves.

The darton sleeve is to repair my #2 cylinder which had a strange hard spot in the bore. I did not want to buy a new block, so I sourced a repair sleeve from Darton. It was not an advertised part, but it does exist, in case anyone else was wondering. You can see the strange spot (ground down) in the pics below.

I am making this thread as a resource for questions that pop up, and for documentation of the whole process. If anyone sees things that i dont have listed and should, or anything like that please speak up!

Below are some of the pictures i have taken to this point.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170619_115330.jpg (2.61 MB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg 20170619_115326.jpg (2.65 MB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg 20170619_115321.jpg (2.60 MB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg 20170619_115313.jpg (2.85 MB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 20170619_115308.jpg (3.17 MB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg 20170530_211437.jpg (5.01 MB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg 20170617_200014.jpg (3.50 MB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 20170606_205120.jpg (4.54 MB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg 20170622_194356.jpg (3.86 MB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 20170522_193217.jpg (3.38 MB, 35 views)
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 Old 06-28-2017, 09:26 AM   #2
 
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Here are some pictures of the carnage that led to the build
Attached Images
File Type: jpg broken valve seat mazdaspeed6.jpg (2.04 MB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg Cyl 1 mazdaspeed6.jpg (3.22 MB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Cyl 2 mazdaspeed6.jpg (3.07 MB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg Cyl 3 mazdaspeed6.jpg (3.03 MB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg Cyl 4 mazdaspeed6.jpg (3.20 MB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg top view mazdaspeed6.jpg (2.70 MB, 33 views)
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 Old 06-28-2017, 12:03 PM   #3
 
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Giving your pistons and rods the full spa treatment before installing?

Nice list and good luck with the build! I wouldn't do the BSD however if you are going to daily the car IMHO.
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 Old 06-28-2017, 01:22 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
Giving your pistons and rods the full spa treatment before installing?

Nice list and good luck with the build! I wouldn't do the BSD however if you are going to daily the car IMHO.
Yes it will be my summer daily. Any reasoning for no BSD? I removed the BSD in my 3 and noticed no difference, but i was not BT. Just k04 on E.
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 Old 06-28-2017, 03:06 PM   #5
 
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Might want to get the treadstone tr8 intercooler core for that turbo.


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 Old 06-28-2017, 03:35 PM   #6
 
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The balance shaft assembly is weighted for the OEM rotating assembly.

If you change the rods/pistons the balance shafts assembly should be removed.
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 Old 06-28-2017, 07:28 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Dennisms3 View Post
Might want to get the treadstone tr8 intercooler core for that turbo.


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Also, reasoning? I understand it flows a bit better. But is there something critical or significantly better about it?

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 Old 06-28-2017, 07:42 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by ajkulish View Post
Also, reasoning? I understand it flows a bit better. But is there something critical or significantly better about it?

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Front mount is inherently better than top mount(with the limited airflow underhood).

You're changing so much at once it would probably be a better idea to get it running and any kinks worked out and then go front mount..
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 Old 06-28-2017, 10:18 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
The balance shaft assembly is weighted for the OEM rotating assembly.

If you change the rods/pistons the balance shafts assembly should be removed.
Isn't that going to result into more vibration though?
I remember there was a pretty extensive discussion about removing the BS, one of them was about these vibrations eating the main bearings quite fast, plus the acoustic discomfort when DD-ing the car.
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 Old 06-28-2017, 10:32 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Isn't that going to result into more vibration though?
I remember there was a pretty extensive discussion about removing the BS, one of them was about these vibrations eating the main bearings quite fast, plus the acoustic discomfort when DD-ing the car.
The balance shafts are 100% there for ride comfort. Removing them has no effect on bearing wear.

Replacing the rear motor mount is far more noticeable than removing the balance shafts.
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 Old 06-28-2017, 11:53 PM   #11
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FWIW, my motor was built with the balance shaft retained. I ended up having it taken out this spring and used the massive speed bsd and oil pan baffle. It vibes less with the balance shaft deleted.
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 Old 06-29-2017, 03:10 AM   #12
 
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Good list. I would go 3.5 bar map sensor for that turbo on meth. 3 Bar limit reading is around 28.8. That turbo can do up to 32psi.
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 Old 06-29-2017, 06:17 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by SSinstaller View Post
Front mount is inherently better than top mount(with the limited airflow underhood).

You're changing so much at once it would probably be a better idea to get it running and any kinks worked out and then go front mount..
I had a CS TMIC, but unfortunately i sold it to some kid who blew his motor the day after installing it. So it looks like i will be going with this CX fmic off the top. Is there any significant difference between the CX core and the TR8 core?

Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Isn't that going to result into more vibration though?
I remember there was a pretty extensive discussion about removing the BS, one of them was about these vibrations eating the main bearings quite fast, plus the acoustic discomfort when DD-ing the car.
True enough, I do believe (depending on timing) that i will have the engine shop balance my rotating assembly. At this point, there should be no vibration.

Originally Posted by shaneski View Post
Good list. I would go 3.5 bar map sensor for that turbo on meth. 3 Bar limit reading is around 28.8. That turbo can do up to 32psi.
Yeah, we will see how far i take it. I will probably end up going with a 3.5 later but i already have the 3 bar in hand. We will see how long i keep that.


Thanks for the kind words and advice everyone
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 Old 06-29-2017, 12:25 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by ajkulish View Post
I had a CS TMIC, but unfortunately i sold it to some kid who blew his motor the day after installing it. So it looks like i will be going with this CX fmic off the top. Is there any significant difference between the CX core and the TR8 core?







True enough, I do believe (depending on timing) that i will have the engine shop balance my rotating assembly. At this point, there should be no vibration.







Yeah, we will see how far i take it. I will probably end up going with a 3.5 later but i already have the 3 bar in hand. We will see how long i keep that.





Thanks for the kind words and advice everyone


Yes, there is a huge difference in intercooler cores. I had the cx racing intercooler kit on my opd gen1 with a bnr s3. The bats only dropped a couple degrees wot then increase again while still going wot. And cruising bats were pretty hot. I then changed to a tr8 core and bats were only 10 degrees hotter than outside temp. They dropped by like 30 degrees if not more sometimes they would be cooler than outside temps. Not to mention during wot the bats kept dropping and dropping. So there is a huge difference imo


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Cruising temps were like 110-125 degrees with the tr8 core. But once you give throttle they drop immediately.


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 Old 06-29-2017, 01:13 PM   #15
 
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Thanks, good to know. I had a cx fmic on my 3 running e85 (330whp 365ftlbs) and i never had an issue with BATs. I am also going to be spraying meth so its not such a big worry. But i will keep this in mind, its an easy part to swap out down the road.
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 Old 06-30-2017, 05:45 AM   #16
 
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anyone have any insight on how to install darton sleeves?
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 Old 06-30-2017, 01:09 PM   #17
 
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Any decent engine shop (decent = means they did this at least once) will know.

But basically the process looks like this:
- the engine has to be bored to the Darton specs,
- the block and sleeves have to be put into a big refrigerator and cooled down to -20C or like -5F, or even more if the shop has something based on liquid nitrogen;
- the sleeves go in the block bores;
- when the sleeved engine will come back to the ambient temperature the sleeves will stay in there like they are welded in.

If you don't have to sleeve the engine (like you already bored it to 88, needs to be bored more and you either don't have a piston option there or you're concerned about the poor heat dissipation of the thinner cylinder walls) then do not sleeve it.
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 Old 07-02-2017, 01:40 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Any decent engine shop (decent = means they did this at least once) will know.

But basically the process looks like this:
- the engine has to be bored to the Darton specs,
- the block and sleeves have to be put into a big refrigerator and cooled down to -20C or like -5F, or even more if the shop has something based on liquid nitrogen;
- the sleeves go in the block bores;
- when the sleeved engine will come back to the ambient temperature the sleeves will stay in there like they are welded in.

If you don't have to sleeve the engine (like you already bored it to 88, needs to be bored more and you either don't have a piston option there or you're concerned about the poor heat dissipation of the thinner cylinder walls) then do not sleeve it.
They have done this before, just wanted to know the specs particular to the engine. Making sure they don't intrude into any coolant passages or anything. Just were looking for the proper documentation and specs. Fortunately darton responded with the specs and process, but I don't remember reading anything about chilling it.

Also, it's been bored to 88 but the problem was not that it had to go further, but that it had a strange spot in the bore that was harder than the rest (some sort of inclusion in casting) and don't want me to run into issues of it wearing unevenly on the piston or rings.

EDIT, instruction document from darton included



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 Old 07-17-2017, 07:40 AM   #19
 
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Hey guys,

I have heard some people say that the IWG flap on the ATP turbos can collide with the exhaust diverter in the CS downpipe. Does anyone have any experience with this? Looking to see how much i have to grind down
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 Old 07-17-2017, 08:57 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by ajkulish View Post
Hey guys,

I have heard some people say that the IWG flap on the ATP turbos can collide with the exhaust diverter in the CS downpipe. Does anyone have any experience with this? Looking to see how much i have to grind down
How old is your CS pipe, i'm pretty sure CS did a revision a few years back to stop it happening. You could call CS to see if they can tell you what needs to be done if it is an old pipe.
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 Old 07-18-2017, 05:44 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by shaneski View Post
How old is your CS pipe, i'm pretty sure CS did a revision a few years back to stop it happening. You could call CS to see if they can tell you what needs to be done if it is an old pipe.
Good call broski, I'll do that. Unfortunately it came with the car so I dont know the exact age but I will call them and see what the deal is.
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 Old 07-21-2017, 06:21 AM   #22
 
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Got to do some work at the engine shop yesterday. Crank is micropolished and inspected, block is bored and honed, and 3 sets of pistons and rods are installed. Unfortunately, the Manley second ring on the cylinder 3 piston had a bit of a flared end (not sure if it was something i did when putting the piston in the ring compressor, or if it was a fault in machining) but it got stuck in the groove, and ultimately snapped trying to get it out. So I have expedited a ring set to my house, hopefully I can get back to the shop and finish the short block this weekend.
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 Old 07-26-2017, 07:02 AM   #23
 
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Got the mechanical part of the WMI kit installed last night. Very sturdy and I am happy with the cleanliness of the setup.

Also decided to hack the shit out of my dash board flip top so that my triple gauge pod would still flip open, and allow me to continue utilizing that space. It was a lot of work, and it ended up about 1/4" above the rest of the dash, but the fact that i dont have to sacrifice that storage space makes me very happy with it. Let me know what yall think.
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 Old 07-26-2017, 02:15 PM   #24
 
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How are you going to run the meth tubes? Under the car?
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 Old 07-26-2017, 07:34 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by armyman View Post
How are you going to run the meth tubes? Under the car?
That's the plan, haven't done that yet. I'll try to tackle it tomorrow.

But I did finish my short block tonight! I thought I was anxious to get this together before....

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 Old 08-01-2017, 07:30 AM   #26
 
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Got the cylinder head on last night, and put the EBM oil pump in. You can see in the pictures that the gap in the oil pump "compressor" is larger than the gap on my worn out pump. This is the only noticeable difference between the ecoboost mustang pump and our pump. This should, theoretically, flow more oil for us at about 15% of the cost. Let me know your thoughts.

Its a shame I will never (hopefully) get to see those shiny piston tops again.
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 Old 08-03-2017, 07:03 AM   #27
 
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long block complete
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 Old 08-05-2017, 10:17 PM   #28
 
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loving the build man! I am headed in the same direction right now, had a spun bearing and some contact on lucky #4 .
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 Old 08-08-2017, 06:32 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by HarambeSpeed3 View Post
loving the build man! I am headed in the same direction right now, had a spun bearing and some contact on lucky #4 .
Best of luck man, sure is an experience. Also, whatever you think its going to cost, double it.

So i am almost done putting it together, but am having a hard time locating 3 electrical clips respective mates.

1. the ambient air temp sensor is at the end, but one before that is a clip i cant find the other end to.

2. this is off the same part that clips into the EGR, cant find anything close enough to plug into it.

3 and 4. This is near the headlight, and come to think of it, there may be a matching one on the passenger side.

any help is appreciated guys, i wanna run this thing!
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 Old 08-09-2017, 07:35 PM   #30
 
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car is totally assembled, but wont start. It turns over and has compression, but when plugs were pulled, they were completely dry. So i removed the lines to and from the hpfp and had fuel spray all over each time. But when cranking, the AP only reads a max of 180 psi.

Whats the deal here fellas?
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 Old 08-11-2017, 07:31 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by ajkulish View Post
car is totally assembled, but wont start. It turns over and has compression, but when plugs were pulled, they were completely dry. So i removed the lines to and from the hpfp and had fuel spray all over each time. But when cranking, the AP only reads a max of 180 psi.

Whats the deal here fellas?
When it happened to me HPFP had a loose ground or was disconnected. It seems your in tank pump is working so it has to be HPFP.
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 Old 08-14-2017, 06:43 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by stockms3 View Post
When it happened to me HPFP had a loose ground or was disconnected. It seems your in tank pump is working so it has to be HPFP.
Yup, I ordered a new relief valve, so hopefully that't it. Couldnt find anything funky in the connections.
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