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 Old 02-23-2017, 07:18 AM   #1
 
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Default Carskick's Build - Finally going aftermarket after 8 years...

After 8 years of driving a basically stock 2009 Mazdaspeed 3, I'm taking the plunge into the aftermarket world. Why now and not sooner?
  1. The car is now paid off, which wasn't true until early 2016
  2. I have extra money coming available
  3. I'm using it as an excuse to my wife instead of buying a "new" car
  4. I am going high reliability in addition to some added performance

I've been on the forums A LOT browsing for info and opinions, but especially as of late in choosing parts.

My car is currently at the mechanic getting some initial details taken care of. Here's where I started:

Giving up on the dealer = awesome! No more 0W-20 Castrol blend, or whatever garbage motor oil they're putting in. I changed the spark-plugs myself to pre-gaped Iridiums for Gen 2s.

This mechanic is doing the following today:
- Amsoil XL 5W-30
- Clean MAF Sensor
- Motorcraft Synthetic Transmission Fluid
-JBR Soild Shift Bushings
- JBR 70R RMM
- Checking out CV Joints, Suspension, etc to ensure everything is in working order.

Our next stage will be:
Brakes: EBC RedStuff Pads & StopTech Sport Slotted Rotors all around
AutoTech High Pressure Fuel Pump Internals

Upcoming Mods & Questions about them
So I've got a parts list and upgrade map planned, but I am open to suggestions on a couple of key points.

- CAI - JBR Stage 2 or HTP Mazdaspeed 3.0 Full Intake
- Oil Catch Can - Kozmic Motorsports or something cheaper?
- TMIC - ETS or Corksport
- EGR Delete
- AccessPort V3 with Freektune

CAI
I know I want a stage 2 style intake, as I live in Florida with occasional flooding. I've narrowed it down to JBR Stage 2, which is a 2.5" pipe, and the HTP 3.0" Pipe. Any Thoughts? Current build vs future build with something in the BNR Stage 3 size.

Oil Catch Can
I know I want to add something to keep the engine cleaner. EGR delete and oil catch should do it, but which one? I've been recommended the Kozmic Motorsports, but is it worth the price premium, as it's $100-200 more than the competitors? Is there a better choice?

TMIC
I've eliminate the CBR, but I can't decide between the thinner, less costly Corksport & the ETS. With the K04, is the ETS worth the $180 premium?

I really want to hear some opinions. Yes, I've searched the forums on these issues, but a lot of the info is dated, and of course a lot of it's inconclusive. Just curious what the current feedback is on these, and based on my build. Thank you in advanced!

Last edited by Carskick; 03-06-2017 at 09:07 AM. Reason: Typo about "garbage motor oil"
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 Old 02-23-2017, 07:40 AM   #2
 
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Intake: Get a 3" or 3.5" JBR aluminum intake.

I have a JBR OCC that's treated me fine for the last 2.5 years. It's not the coolest looking OCC, but it definitely gets the job done.

Are you only thinking about TMICs? I wholeheartedly believe in FMICs for 1st gens. Especially when you live in FL.

EGR delete is cheap and easy, just get one from Dammond, Kozmic, or JBR. I think they're all around the same price. Or, just unplug it...

All the parts in my sig have been on at least 2 years and nearly 50k miles. All with no issues.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 08:02 AM   #3
 
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Don't get a CAI, especially in FL. I've heard way too many stories about hydrolocking, and if it were to happen to you, your wife likely won't let you touch a car again. Get a 3in aluminum SRI, like the aforementioned JBR.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 08:38 AM   #4
 
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Thank you for the great info, guys!

The 3" JBR looks like a great option vs the 2.5" I was looking at. Edgesport didn't have it, so I'll get it elsewhere, only $35 more. The stage 2 I was looking at was not a true CAI, the stage 3 is the one that's down low. I agree, I'd never do that in florida, because the rain.
The CAI was a misnomer, they really are SRI's as you said.

That JBR Catch Can looks like a good option. I happened to be researching it when you recommended. Far less cost than the other option I looked at, and seems highly rated by many. I think that's the winner ATM.

I am planning on sticking TMIC at this point for a couple of reasons:
  • Lower Cost/Complexity of install
  • Fewer modifications required to car
  • Even if I upgrade turbo, I'm not going significantly larger
  • Some have reported the K04 prefers TMIC somehow?

That being said, I know FMIC will probably get to lower temps and have less heatsoak. At least a better TMIC should have better flow and better temps at speed, right?

EGR delete will be done with the other "major" mods (Injector seals, Intake, TMIC), so I can have freektune prep the tune for everything at once. I don't want the CEL in the meantime...

My first post was actually typed yesterday, posted today, so I did get may car back last night:

The transmission feels loads better with the new sifter bushings, RMM, & Motorcraft fluid. However, the vibrations are pretty extreme at certain RPMs, especially 1k to 1.6k. I gotta fix a few interior rattles to make it livable, but I've heard it really breaks in between 500 and 2000 miles. It also eliminated the low RPM squeak that I was experiencing. I thought it was Timing Chain related, turned out to be the stock RMM, which was showing some mild wear and squeaking. Very glad I only did 70R, couldn't imagine living with it stiffer.

They did say my MAF was filthy, as the dealer never cleans them. That helped performance quite a bit, including helping some mid range power problems that I've been having. They think this dirtiness was in part to my K&N filter, which I've had on the car since about 10k miles, and lightly oiled twice. I will be going dry filter when I get the intake.

Quick Thought:

With just these mods, will I need 1 step colder spark plugs yet? From what I hear, I don't really need them until I add 50-75HP...Tune, Intake, and new TMIC may add 50, but I doubt 75. Just replaced spark plugs myself about 3k miles ago.

Last edited by Carskick; 02-23-2017 at 08:38 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:06 AM   #5
 
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My vote is HTP for the intake, personal preference, they're a better company IMO.

If you consider changing out any other mounts the best option is Damond Motorsports. They also sell some pretty nice catch can setups.

As for spark plugs, pretty much unless you're fully bolted and pushing the hell out of the turbo you don't need to go with colder plugs.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:19 AM   #6
 
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I've seen the HTP when browsing as well. Considering 3" vs 3", I wonder if there is any significant difference between the JBR and the HTP?

As far as the Motor Mount, I looked at Damond, but I went with the JBR because I thought it would transfer fewer vibrations than the Damond. How were your vibrations when you put it on at first? Over time? If they are far better, I may have to switch... I will give the JBR a chance to break in, as I'd rather not have to rebuy/reinstall unless I have to!

Good to hear about the plugs. I will stick with the standard heat level for now.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:33 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Carskick View Post
I've seen the HTP when browsing as well. Considering 3" vs 3", I wonder if there is any significant difference between the JBR and the HTP?
IIRC, the JBR 'TRU' line is actually 3" ID, all the others are 3"OD for the MAF housing. Also, the JBR has a built in straightener.

At the end of the day, they both move a higher volume of air than stock, and both will need a MAFCAL via AP or VT. Your car will run like crap if you put a 3" intake on without a tune.

Go VIP here and search the For Sale section to find a deal on stuff, or one of the FB pages. Used parts are normally good parts. The HPFP internals I have had 30k miles on them before I bought them off a member here, and I've easily put another 60k on them.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:39 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Carskick View Post

As far as the Motor Mount, I looked at Damond, but I went with the JBR because I thought it would transfer fewer vibrations than the Damond. How were your vibrations when you put it on at first? Over time? If they are far better, I may have to switch... I will give the JBR a chance to break in, as I'd rather not have to rebuy/reinstall unless I have to!
JBR is notorious for being one of the more vibey options. I drove a 6 that had all 3 JBR mounts and it was completely intolerable (and I'm pretty tolerant of NVH). It was bad to the point none of the 3 rear view mirrors were useable.

With just my RMM and FMM I don't really notice much more vibrations. Obviously moving to any aftermarket mount there will be some NVH increase, but I haven't noticed a whole ton. It will break in a bit after a few thousand miles.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:43 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
JBR is notorious for being one of the more vibey options. I drove a 6 that had all 3 JBR mounts and it was completely intolerable (and I'm pretty tolerant of NVH). It was bad to the point none of the 3 rear view mirrors were useable.

With just my RMM and FMM I don't really notice much more vibrations. Obviously moving to any aftermarket mount there will be some NVH increase, but I haven't noticed a whole ton. It will break in a bit after a few thousand miles.
Just my impressions of the JBR trilogy on my MS6, the vibes were loud but my mirrors were fine but I had my engine balanced(with the flywheel) when I went forged.

I will be going to the Damond motor sport PMM once it comes out though and will probably get the RMM too.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:45 AM   #10
 
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I'm on the edge of ordering the Damond RMM and returning the JBR before it's too late.

It's $40 for my mechanic to change the mounts, plus the restocking fee on the JBR.

Or wait and see how it is after break in. Ugh decisions!

I did get the 70A, which is supposed to be softer than the 80 or 88 everyone else seems to get/recommend. I really want stiffer than stock, but not a huge increase of vibrations, even if there's some engine movement...
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 Old 02-23-2017, 09:54 AM   #11
 
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As much of a JBR fanboy as I come off as being, if I didn't have my CPE Stage 2, RMM, I'd go Dammond. In fact, if my PMM ever goes, I'll be getting a Dammond. A local has one here, and it is a damn fine quality piece.

Also, if you have the means to lift your car up off the ground, and basic hand tools, you can do the motor mount in half an hour.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 10:10 AM   #12
 
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Intake- future proof like others have said and get 3" or higher. 3.5" would be optimal with going BT in the future

EGR delete- up to you but my understanding is that it does lower heat inside engine helping the ring lands, and living in FL you and I need all the help we can get. OCC should negate the need for EGR

OCC- I like Damond's. Vented option and upgradable to stg2

IC- CPE TMIC is probably the best VALUE. ETS slightly performs better, but a couple hundred more expensive. CS is around the same price but performs slightly less. You can also fit a JBR oil cooler with a topmount. Depending on size. FMIC blocks the radiator from some airflow. IMHO TMIC, tig gaskets, TB coolant bypass and E85 are just as good

ust a different opinion



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 Old 02-23-2017, 10:21 AM   #13
 
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If I had a lift, I'd definitely do it myself!

I had a bad experience with a jack in the past, so I'd rather pay $40 for my mechanic to do it! When I'm rich and I have a lift, I'll do all my own car maintenance!

I really hope the break in helps. I'm going to give it a chance, then I can sell it on the used parts forum or ebay if I decide to go a different route. I like the stable engine, but I'm still getting some wheel hop (It's Better, though), and I miss the smoother ride. While I like sporty cars, I also want to hear my SQ audio system and not have to take ibuprofen on a daily basis! My wife hasn't ridden in the car yet, we'll she what she says!

I'm pretty sure I'm going 3". Even if I go BT, it won't be extreme. And I will not intake without tune, so that's not a concern. Intake, TMIC, Injector Seals, and Tune will all be done simultaneously.

The CP-E TMIC was my first choice, but I've read it had the most issues. IDK, lol. It and the CS are basically the same price, the ETS is much pricier. The CS can also have stock shroud kept if I want... I too like how the TMIC doesn't block radiator. Will have to research tig gaskets and TB coolant bypass.

I saw Damond's OCC while looking at RMMs, too. A little more costly than JDR. I wonder which is better, and which requires less maintenance?
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 Old 02-23-2017, 12:02 PM   #14
 
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Another vote for at least 3" intake, especially if you plan to someday upgrade to a larger turbo. If you want ease of mod, 3" might be preferable to 3.5" (which requires a smaller battery tray or, at least, relocating the ECU. 3" just requires the ECU cover to be removed). Brand is a preference thing, to a degree. I believe CS now has a 3" ID intake like JBR offers but, as mentioned, JBR's MAF housing is a single machined piece, including built-in air straightener, which is nice.
Definitely do the EGR delete while you're in there for the intake, DM and JBR have the most cost effective options (scratch that, Adapted Performance actually now offers the cheapest kit, with the one he recently released) and the only difference is which brand's appearance you prefer. It's nice to get the valve out of the engine bay but, if you need or want to pinch a few pennies, simply unplugging it will also suffice. Either way, it will throw two codes that you can disable with an AP/VT or ignore as you see fit.

OCCs are , again, somewhat of a brand preference thing. I would go DM over JBR but that's just me. Personally, I'm actually running a CS can that I just installed over the weekend (was a Christmas gift) but am using the DM stage 1 routing method with a DM check-valve added, over CS's instructed hose routing. Matt Damond has done a ton of research on OCC configurations and has a really good thread on the forums detailing his findings and the pros/cons of the various setups.

I do have the CS TMIC and am so far pleased with it. Much better than OEM, more cost-effective than ETS, and allows retention of the stock shroud if you're into the stealthy look. I know most guys say to go FMIC, but I like the ease of a top mount and don't think it's entirely necessary to switch if you're staying at a moderate power level. To repeat myself again, some personal preference is involved here.

As was mentioned, VIP is a worthy donation to make. The F/S section can score you some fantastic deals (ask me about the brand new CS turbo I just picked up for $600), and it'll also give you access to the Mazda FSM.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 12:26 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by sharksinspace View Post
Another vote for at least 3" intake, especially if you plan to someday upgrade to a larger turbo. If you want ease of mod, 3" might be preferable to 3.5" (which requires a smaller battery tray or, at least, relocating the ECU. 3" just requires the ECU cover to be removed). Brand is a preference thing, to a degree. I believe CS now has a 3" ID intake like JBR offers but, as mentioned, JBR's MAF housing is a single machined piece, including built-in air straightener, which is nice.
Definitely do the EGR delete while you're in there for the intake, DM and JBR have the most cost effective options (scratch that, Adapted Performance actually now offers the cheapest kit, with the one he recently released) and the only difference is which brand's appearance you prefer. It's nice to get the valve out of the engine bay but, if you need or want to pinch a few pennies, simply unplugging it will also suffice. Either way, it will throw two codes that you can disable with an AP/VT or ignore as you see fit.

OCCs are , again, somewhat of a brand preference thing. I would go DM over JBR but that's just me. Personally, I'm actually running a CS can that I just installed over the weekend (was a Christmas gift) but am using the DM stage 1 routing method with a DM check-valve added, over CS's instructed hose routing. Matt Damond has done a ton of research on OCC configurations and has a really good thread on the forums detailing his findings and the pros/cons of the various setups.

I do have the CS TMIC and am so far pleased with it. Much better than OEM, more cost-effective than ETS, and allows retention of the stock shroud if you're into the stealthy look. I know most guys say to go FMIC, but I like the ease of a top mount and don't think it's entirely necessary to switch if you're staying at a moderate power level. To repeat myself again, some personal preference is involved here.

As was mentioned, VIP is a worthy donation to make. The F/S section can score you some fantastic deals (ask me about the brand new CS turbo I just picked up for $600), and it'll also give you access to the Mazda FSM.
So after 4 people telling me to, I guess I HAVE to go 3" on the intake.
Probably not going to 3.5, as I'd rather not do the ECU move, and don't plan on a really big turbo in my car. JBR is my plan hear as well, though CS and HTP are runner ups. I've heard the air straightener is good for the MAF readings?

Glad to hear your happy with the CS TMIC. Jon said the CPE is a better value, but if it has potential issues, I'd rather be safer with the CS, assuming it is actually safer. I feel I'm leaning CS here.

Definitely will do EGR delete during the big upgrade wave. I hate the whole EGR concept as a whole! And Oil Catch Can, I will look back into Damond as well. He seems to really do a lot of research in general, though JBR gets high marks as well. Will have to really look at exact differences.

Thank you again for all the helpful ideas and thoughts! It should help me get some decisions made for the upcoming upgrades!
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 Old 02-23-2017, 02:08 PM   #16
 
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Conveniently, Dale has been updating his thread again in the last few days with more intercooler research and comparisons. This may help you make your decision:
ETS TMIC v. CP-E FMIC MS6; guess I need a bigger intercooler
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 Old 02-25-2017, 07:35 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by sharksinspace View Post
Conveniently, Dale has been updating his thread again in the last few days with more intercooler research and comparisons. This may help you make your decision:
ETS TMIC v. CP-E FMIC MS6; guess I need a bigger intercooler
That is convenient!

I think I happened across that thread in my research. I re-read it fully after your recommendation. I understand a lot of it, but not all of it. Still getting used to all the nitty gritty of turbo tuning!

I know the better my intercooler keeps things cool, the more the Ignition Timing can be advanced in the tune, while keeping KR at bay. So if an ETS TMIC keeps the air cooler than the CP-E or CS TMIC, then I should get more power from that fact alone. The ETS may also flow more air, which may or may not matter with a K04 (or will it?). Unfortunately his comparison does not include a CS TMIC, and much of his later info is based on FMIC, which is a route I won't be going.

Here's how I'm looking at it, correct me if I'm wrong. The ETS TMIC may provide some advantages now, but probably only a little over the CP-E or ETS. However, If I do upgrade to Mid-Turbo, I will regret not having the ETS, which has more flow and lower temps. Does this sound right?

That being said, what kind of boost numbers will I likely be getting with the K04, 3" Intake, Freektune, and ETS or CS TMIC? Am I going to end up closer to 18PSI instead of the stock 15.6ish?

As an aside, I've had some more time with my car in it's current state, and I FREAKING LOVE how it drives with the JBR 70A RMM! Wheel hop is almost completely eliminated, but even better, high speed handling is far better, more controlled, and with less understeer.

I also don't mind the vibrations themselves, but a vibration at 1450RPM is causing a really loud sudden Ladder in the roof of the car, near the rear. I'm guessing wires from the antennae or break-light. I'll either wait to see if it smooths out during break in, or take apart the headliner and pad the wires. I already triple checked spoiler and stereo system, and it's not them. It's definitely in the roof!
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 Old 02-25-2017, 09:05 AM   #18
 
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I've got a rattle from the passenger side rear hatch that I haven't been able to track down, as well; I've completely gutted the trunk and pulled the spoiler so I'm also thinking it's in the roof/headliner somewhere. Kind of learning to just deal with it.

As far as target boost, you'll likely see higher than that on a Freektune. He had me targeting 20psi on stock sized intake, TMIC and catless test pipe; I just revised the tune with him after upgrading to a 3" intake and 3bar MAP, and the new target is 21psi. He'll definitely have your car running well!

I'm not sure what the final difference in numbers/power would be between the various top mounts, after upgrading from k04. I'm running the CS TMIC, myself; I'm sure the ETS would perform 'better' and might be able to net you some slightly higher final figures, but I got a deal on the CS during one of their surprise sales and couldn't justify spending over $200 more. I'm happy enough with it; if I swap it out it would most likely only be to go FMIC unless I somehow snag a hell of a deal on an ETS and then opt to sell the CS off.
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 Old 02-25-2017, 10:21 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by sharksinspace View Post
I've got a rattle from the passenger side rear hatch that I haven't been able to track down, as well; I've completely gutted the trunk and pulled the spoiler so I'm also thinking it's in the roof/headliner somewhere. Kind of learning to just deal with it.

As far as target boost, you'll likely see higher than that on a Freektune. He had me targeting 20psi on stock sized intake, TMIC and catless test pipe; I just revised the tune with him after upgrading to a 3" intake and 3bar MAP, and the new target is 21psi. He'll definitely have your car running well!

I'm not sure what the final difference in numbers/power would be between the various top mounts, after upgrading from k04. I'm running the CS TMIC, myself; I'm sure the ETS would perform 'better' and might be able to net you some slightly higher final figures, but I got a deal on the CS during one of their surprise sales and couldn't justify spending over $200 more. I'm happy enough with it; if I swap it out it would most likely only be to go FMIC unless I somehow snag a hell of a deal on an ETS and then opt to sell the CS off.
Glad I'm not alone with the roof rattle, I guess!
If you get around to taking off your headliner, share what you find. If I end up doing it, I'll share what I find.

I will be doing the 3" intake, but not the 3bar MAP. Stock does 22PSI from what I understand, and I don't plan on going that high with stock turbo, as I do want to keep it reliable. So maybe I should target 20PSI?

I think you should upgrade your CS to the ETS, and sell me your CS!

In all seriousness, that's where I'm at. I don't know if the $200 premium is worth it for the ETS for my build, as I'm not going super aggressive. Maybe they'll run a sale on it soon!
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 Old 02-25-2017, 03:17 PM   #20
 
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My guess is that Justin/Freek will have you targeting about 20psi (especially if you dump a cat from your setup); I added the 3bar MAP in preparation for a turbo swap, but yeah...not entirely necessary if you're staying k04.

Haha! In looking again, ETS is even pricier than I remembered. I grabbed my CS for about $300 shipped between their sale and a few reward points I cashed in; no way I can really justify paying nearly double that for the ETS.
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 Old 02-26-2017, 10:22 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by sharksinspace View Post
My guess is that Justin/Freek will have you targeting about 20psi (especially if you dump a cat from your setup); I added the 3bar MAP in preparation for a turbo swap, but yeah...not entirely necessary if you're staying k04.

Haha! In looking again, ETS is even pricier than I remembered. I grabbed my CS for about $300 shipped between their sale and a few reward points I cashed in; no way I can really justify paying nearly double that for the ETS.
Not dumping a cat, or planning on Downpipe ATM. I decided to go TMIC upgrade instead of Downpipe. With TMIC, intake, injector seals, OCC, AP+tune, I'm a bit over budget as it is. Another reason I'm looking at the $300-400 TMICs over the ETS. SURE, CS, CP-E all have options under $400. Just gotta choose one before I make my final choice.

After 150 miles, the JBR 70A RMM is still giving me headaches. Literally. Performance is great, but the bad roof rattle and headaches are tiresome. I'm thinking of just turning the car on and letting it idle in the driveway for a few hours to help break it in! If it doesn't get better after 500 miles, I'll have to look at other options. E-Focus Mount is an option, or I could try the CS RMM. But I don't want to become addicted to pain pills. Here's to hoping in smooths out a little more!
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 Old 02-26-2017, 12:41 PM   #22
 
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A Treadstone tr8 core and cx racing piping is a perfect fmic setup that will really help your mid sized turbo perform (when you eventually upgrade). It's a cheap/effective fmic for under $500 and you won't have to worry about heat soak from a tmic on a hot summer day
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 Old 02-26-2017, 01:29 PM   #23
 
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There are two cats; you can eliminate the second (test/race pipe) without touching the DP.
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 Old 02-27-2017, 11:00 AM   #24
 
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Josh, I'm not going FMIC. To much mod required, cost and logistics are a factor.

Shark, I am planning on leaving both the cats, but may upgrade DP in the future. We'll see.

Also, I know the "But Racecar" crowd will look down on this, but 200 miles later, and the RMM hasn't settled enough for my liking. I've ordered the Electric Focus Motor Mount and associated bolt to go with the in between option. This car is not only mine, but my wife and drive a lot in it, along with my 10 week old. It's not a race car, just a fun DD.

I've been browsing tons of forums including this one, and the E-Focus RMM seems to be the best rubber mount out there in terms of strength and stability, while having far less NVH than the Poly Mounts. I will let you guys know how it goes!
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 Old 02-27-2017, 11:49 AM   #25
 
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I don't see why you would want to keep both cats, personally; I assume it makes it easier to hit 20psi on k04 with at least a race pipe, and removing the second cat doesn't cause too much of a volume increase if "comfort" is what you're worried about.

DM and CPE Stage 2 are supposed to both be very good rear mounts for keeping down NVH while still giving you proper performance benefit over rubber bushing.
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 Old 02-27-2017, 12:20 PM   #26
 
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To the OP: Whatever TMIC you go with will be fine for a K04 - when you get to a bigger turbo the larger the core the better (this is why ETS wins usually, more area).

You're assuming PSI = power which is incorrect, PSI is just a measure, what you measure for more power is flow. You will not be flowing well at all with 2 cats, in fact you will be limited. This is because the giant exhaust restriction causes lots of back pressure decreasing the turbo efficiency. The less efficient the turbo the hotter your BAT's before intercooler and the less flow (because less dense air) even though you could be pushing the same PSI.

There's no reason not to delete the 2nd cat, it's not monitored by any system unless you have to pass emissions but you're in FL so that doesn't mater. The 2nd cat removal is only a few bolts away... and the 2nd cat is the most restrictive on our platform.

TLDR - Pick a TMIC for now, get an ETS if BT later, FMIC if BT later preferrable or you're probably going to waste money later again. 3" Intake no doubt - delete 2nd cat or none of the above really matters, deleting the 2nd cat is your largest gain out of all of those mods.
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 Old 02-27-2017, 01:02 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by sharksinspace View Post
I don't see why you would want to keep both cats, personally; I assume it makes it easier to hit 20psi on k04 with at least a race pipe, and removing the second cat doesn't cause too much of a volume increase if "comfort" is what you're worried about.

DM and CPE Stage 2 are supposed to both be very good rear mounts for keeping down NVH while still giving you proper performance benefit over rubber bushing.
I was keeping both Cats b/c I didn't know it was THAT much of a restriction for my plans. If I can keep a cat to save emissions, why not? But if it's a huge benefit to eliminate one, I'd rather get rid of it?

I don't mind a little more exhaust noise. It's the vibrations/rattles that are bothersome to me. That being said, a loud catback is not in my foreseeable future. I like the sound of the stock exhaust, and I think they are at least straight mufflers.

I did look at DM, but it had mixed reports of NVH, so I wasn't sure it was going to be much better than my JBR 70A. I'm hoping the E-Focus is a good compromise. At least it's better than stock!

Originally Posted by omega View Post
To the OP: Whatever TMIC you go with will be fine for a K04 - when you get to a bigger turbo the larger the core the better (this is why ETS wins usually, more area).

You're assuming PSI = power which is incorrect, PSI is just a measure, what you measure for more power is flow. You will not be flowing well at all with 2 cats, in fact you will be limited. This is because the giant exhaust restriction causes lots of back pressure decreasing the turbo efficiency. The less efficient the turbo the hotter your BAT's before intercooler and the less flow (because less dense air) even though you could be pushing the same PSI.

There's no reason not to delete the 2nd cat, it's not monitored by any system unless you have to pass emissions but you're in FL so that doesn't mater. The 2nd cat removal is only a few bolts away... and the 2nd cat is the most restrictive on our platform.

TLDR - Pick a TMIC for now, get an ETS if BT later, FMIC if BT later preferrable or you're probably going to waste money later again. 3" Intake no doubt - delete 2nd cat or none of the above really matters, deleting the 2nd cat is your largest gain out of all of those mods.
Good to know I should be fine with the smaller TMIC options. If I were to go BT, it wouldn't be really big. And if I did, I'd probably covert to FMIC at the same time. That all is doubtful, the biggest BT I'd ever go with is probably BNR Stage 3 or so. I'm not ever planning on going 400WHP+ with this car.

Also good point with the Cat. I read downpipe upgrades on K04 weren't really that much of an improvement, but I didn't realize that 2nd cat delete was the way to go here. No, I don't have to pass emissions in FL. PSI doesn't automatically equal more power, I was just wondering where I'd be.

The biggest problem right now is cost. I really don't want to piece-mill this. I feel like Intake, AP/FreekTune, Injector Seals, TMIC, EGR Delete, OCC, and now race pipe have to be done at the same time. Otherwise I'm wasting money on retunes, or running mods with no tune, which is also not optimal. That being the case, I'm looking at $2.2-2.5k with parts and labor.

This is after my upcoming brakejob, RMM switch, and HPFP upgrade, getting car prepped for upgrades!

For 2nd Cat delete, I'd be looking at this, correct?

or for $299, full downpipe replaces both cats. Add extra money if I want to save turtles. Then my question is which is more important: TMIC upgrade or Full Downpipe? I'm guessing all of it is best to maximize airflow.

Another thought. How badly do I "need" injector seals upgraded? I know they are a failpoint on the car, which is why I planned on upgrading them, but they are $200 + 4-5 hour of labor, so that's about the cost of the TMIC or full downpipe. Considering I'm going for reliability, I probably want them though, huh?

Damn this upgrade is getting expensive. Will my wife approve of the total $4k of maintenance/upgrades?
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 Old 02-27-2017, 01:20 PM   #28
 
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Yep, lower downpipe aka race pipe aka test pipe is all you need in order to delete the second cat; they can be had for cheaper than that if you do some shopping, though. Likewise a full downlipe, Speed Daddy/M2 is only like $115 for a catless "long" downpipe (upper and lower sections as one).

Injector seals, OCC and EGR delete don't require a tune (you can have your tuner just disable the EGR codes when you work with him, in preparation of removing the valve later) so you would have the option of spacing out those purchases without having to buy tune revisions, if it makes things easier. You should tune after flow mods, though, so it'd be best to just do those all at the same time if you only want to tune once.
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 Old 02-27-2017, 01:28 PM   #29
 
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It should not cost you that much dude, you can get a second hand AP for ~300 for a v2 or 450-500 for a v3. There's tons of second hand parts for MS3's you can get an intake/test pipe etc for cheap and probably be in less than $1200. Donate and go look in the for sale thread, I'm sure there's stuff in there.

Are seals really necessary? Not unless your current ones are leaking, they'll be necessary as you push more boost on a large turbo, not so much on the K04. They'll need replacing one day, not today if they're still good to go.

Also find a nator chaptor in your area don't pay a shop to do this shit, they'll likely fuck it up anyway do it yourself. All of those mods are super quick and takes minutes (except for maybe OCC due to the pain in the ass PCV).

If the largest BT you think you'll ever go to is a BNRS3 - you'll probably be fine with any TMIC. E85/WMI will go a very long way too in the future for probably less cost, E85 will probably be the best bang for your buck power wise and helping cool combustion temps versus a FMIC.
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 Old 02-27-2017, 02:19 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Omega View Post
It should not cost you that much dude, you can get a second hand AP for ~300 for a v2 or 450-500 for a v3. There's tons of second hand parts for MS3's you can get an intake/test pipe etc for cheap and probably be in less than $1200. Donate and go look in the for sale thread, I'm sure there's stuff in there.

Are seals really necessary? Not unless your current ones are leaking, they'll be necessary as you push more boost on a large turbo, not so much on the K04. They'll need replacing one day, not today if they're still good to go.

Also find a nator chaptor in your area don't pay a shop to do this shit, they'll likely fuck it up anyway do it yourself. All of those mods are super quick and takes minutes (except for maybe OCC due to the pain in the ass PCV).

If the largest BT you think you'll ever go to is a BNRS3 - you'll probably be fine with any TMIC. E85/WMI will go a very long way too in the future for probably less cost, E85 will probably be the best bang for your buck power wise and helping cool combustion temps versus a FMIC.
For the AP v3, Freektune gives you $100 off your Etune if you buy the AP from them, so that counteracts the savings a bit. I have considered looking for used parts for the other stuff

For the Intake, TMIC, and Race pipe, yeah, I guess I could look used. I haven't doanted and check F/S, but looking online, I find savings for used wasn't that great unless you found a steal. I guess I could go that route, but I do want to make sure everything I put in is in fact reliable.

AFAIK, my current seals or showing no signs of leaking. Not doing those would be a big labor & $190 parts savings, so maybe I could get away with holding off on that.

The shop I'm working with locally is very reasonable. I can do mods myself such as TMIC and Intake, but I don't have access to a lift, and I won't do the Ramp/Jackstand deal, as I've had a bad experience in the past and it's not worth chancing it. Here's where I'm at, assuming new:

Intake JBR 3" Widepatch: $275
TMIC (Corksport probably): $430 (shipped)
DM OCC +VTA: $215
AP v3 w/FreekTune $750
DM EGR Block & Delete: $45
ATP Turbo Long DP & High Flow CAT: $490

Total before labor: $2205

Now that is with full DP & High Flow CAT replacement. Not sure if I really want to go totally Catless, but would this be better than just a second cat delete? Or should I just get the $175race pipe and leave the first cat? Then there's the Speed Daddy Racepipe for $115, no cat.

Even in that case, I'm still at $1890 + install.

Without injectors, my shop would probably only charge me $300 to $400 for full install, a bit less if I did the Intake & TMIC myself. I can look at used but there are risks to that as well. I haven't been involved with NATOR locally, but I know it exists. I'd still hate to have them do the work without paying, so I'd be in at least a similar boat. I don't expect anyone to work for free.

As Shark said, some things don't effect the tune, such as OCC & Injector seals (If I upgrade them), but EGR delete will throw a CEL, and can create issues, so I'd rather wait until the tune for that. OCC could be done ahead of time, but that's not a huge difference.

The way I see it, I'm looking at shelling out $1400-2500 to get everything done, even if I try to go the used route. Maybe this is dumb, but since I plan on keeping the car for a long time, I'd rather get new just to be safe.

Still, I've got a good gameplan for when the time comes. And I could start buying parts as I see them on sale.

In the meantime, I'm excited to get the EBC Redstuffs & Slotted Rotors installed next week. I've got the E-Focus RMM coming in, and by the time it arrives, I'll have 400-500 miles on my JBR, so I can make a final decision. But in this case, I think I'm going comfort. Gotta be better than 75k mile OEM RMM, though!
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 Old 02-27-2017, 02:31 PM   #31
 
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I'd still hate to have them do the work without paying, so I'd be in at least a similar boat. I don't expect anyone to work for free.
They aren't there to do the work for you, although many guys enjoy helping out and working on cars in general so they probably would help a bit. They do bring knowledge and assistance as well as helping hands. These cars are finicky and you better get to know the car because bringing it to someone will get expensive over it's lifetime as with any turbo/transverse layout.

As for buying new vs used that's personal preference and nothing wrong with that but nothing wrong with good used items either. Good for you for wanting to do it all right the first time too.

A long DP will give you more gains on pump gas than having the first cat in there and the 2nd deleted. Probably not so much if you intend to run E85 (I keep hinting at this for a reason).
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 Old 02-27-2017, 02:40 PM   #32
 
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Carskick,

Along with the other few people who responded among this thread, I also agree that the second cat is the single most restrictive part on our platform and freeing up the secondary cat improves the amount of air a Ko4, (pos), can flow. After hearing your opinions on why a fmic isnt properly suited for you, a top mount should do just fine for a Ko4 or S3.
I would really like to see you remove the second cat, like all of us here recommend, as it really improves the drivability and fuel efficiency (idk if you car about that).

Also, ever think about meth injection? Or is e85 heavily available to the area in which you live?
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 Old 02-27-2017, 04:44 PM   #33
 
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EGR delete will throw two codes that your tuner can disable regardless of whether the valve is installed or not, but I promise it will cause no other issues. If you're concerned that it might but do want to space out the purchase to save some money now (even though it's "only" $45, I know how the little things can add up), you can unplug it right away so that it's inactive while you tune and then just physically remove it whenever you're ready.

FWIW, there's a common opinion that while on k04, the gains to be had from a full catless DP are minimal in comparison to stock upper DP with catless race/test pipe (this somewhat reinforces that the second cat is the true problem child of the stock setup, although we have to keep in mind the direct comparison testing was done with cars running E mixes and not pump-only tunes). So that might be a cheaper option for you to consider; then later on, when you're reaady to go BNR, you can sell the catless pipe for maybe $50-70 and buy the Speed Daddy/M2 long pipe for cheapies to throw in along with the new turbo.

Before starting to buy parts, go VIP and join the fb f/s groups so you can start watching for deals; used 3/3.5" intakes are frequently up for sale (I got my JBR 3" for $150 off a fellow MSF'er). I'm pretty sure there are also currently a few EGR delete kits for sale in the $15-20 range; neither of those are pieces that you should have to worry too much about condition when buying used.
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 Old 02-28-2017, 05:14 AM   #34
 
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Another example: Mazdaspeed New/Used Parts group has someone selling a CS TMIC for $175+shipping. Get you on those groups and start watchin' for deals!
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 Old 02-28-2017, 09:46 AM   #35
 
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I agree that paying someone else to work on my car can get expensive. I appreciate that you acknowledge that I'm trying to do things right the first time to not have any issues. I am the original of this MS3, and I want to keep it running forever!

Unforuntately, I'm not in a position to start doing things under my car, and having a really skilled mechanic at a small, trustworthy shop seems to be my best option at the moment. I will be doing the E-Tune & tweaks myself and probably some of the bolt ons.

I may go ahead and take your guyses advice, donate to the forum, and start browsing the used parts. TMIC and Intake are not too bad to get used, but I'd never get an OCC used, and injectors seals cannot even be reused!

The CP-E Stage 2 RMM is really intriguing! I already ordered the E-Focus mount, but now I'm rethinking that since I've seen the CP-E Stage 2 RMM. I've heard so many "stories" about CP-E stuff having problems or breaking that I haven't really even looked at them for anything. But, their RMM is really intriguing. Turning the bushing on it's side seems like it would really help with the major vibrations that are bothering me, where the JBR is not. I don't mind the harsher idle, it's the severe vibrations around 1500RPM that are getting to me. 250 miles, and those are really not any better.

The CP-E Stage 2 RMM is really expensive, but I may chance it and try it before I go to the E-Focus mount. I really like the drivability of the JBR mount. Wheel spin is so much less, and I could probably hit 0-60 in 5 seconds with a perfect launch with the improvement! I'm very impressed in the handling/grip department, so I don't want to loose that. I'm going to look at more CP-E Stage 2 Reviews, and then probably end up trying that. I will hang on to the E-Focus mount that I ordered until I am sure. If I donate, I can always sell the E-Focus mount through the forum. Otherwise, it's only a $60 loss, and it could be a spare if the CP-E breaks down the road.

Sorry for the wall of text, thinking out loud!

You guys have me pretty convinced of deleting at least my second cat. If I can get the TMIC, Intake, & Race/Test pipe used, it should be within my budget. I'm in no huge hurry, so if it takes me a few months to acquire the parts, I'd be ok with that. That'll give me time to figure out which RMM I want, which is so far WAY HARDER than I though it'd be.

Thank you all for the all the awesome advice, help, and patience!
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 Old 02-28-2017, 09:55 AM   #36
 
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Ok, I'm officially VIP now!!!

And great news! My E-Focus mount hadn't shipped yet, and the company was able to cancel my order. I think I'm going to go CPE RMM Stage 2 and hope the fanciness works for me! If I can't return my JBR 70A, I will post it on the F/S here. Meanwhile, I will start browsing used parts.

If I save enough money, I may still end up doing injector seals, too. I am trying to do this right! Any other advice is greatly appreciated!
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 Old 03-20-2017, 08:05 PM   #37
 
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Quick Update:

More of my list is complete, and so far so good!

StopTech Slotted Rotors
EBC RedStuff Pads
AutoTech HPFP
Damond RMM

Al installed, so far so good. I will report back in detail once these all break in. So far, only 50 miles on it.

Overall, I can already tell the Damond RMM is better than the JBR 70A I took out after 700 miles or so. It vibrates badly at 1500RPM and 3k RPM just as the JBR did when removed, but not nearly as bad as when the JBR was new. Once broken it, I belive it will be a much more controlled piece. However, wheel hop is a little worse, which surprised me... We'll see!

Brakes feel really nice, though I'm being easy on them until they break in. Quite under light braking, alittle noise under moderate. Haven't heavied yet...
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 Old 03-28-2017, 07:33 AM   #38
 
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Yet Another Update:

Damond RMM still doing very well! I'm still getting trunk wires/spoiler rattle, whichever it is...

I just placed an order for a bunch of dynamat and Butyl Rope. I'm going to try and dedicate part of a day coming up to take apart my trunk, spoiler, doors, and glovebox. If I can dynamat/butyl rope a bunch of places, hopefuly I will get most/all the rattles. I'd eventually like to replace the TMM & PMM with the Damond's as well, but I gotta get on this rattle first. I'd love to have less road noise, espeically now that the engine/transmission are louder, thanks to the mounts. Plus, once I get intake, Test Pipe, etc, I want to hear that, not road noise.

Hopefully if the sound dedening works well, I'll have a LexusMazdaSpeed3

I've been and will continue to research the best areas to add sound dampening, but if anyone has any specific advice, I'd love to hear it. Here's what I've got planned so far:
  • Spoiler - Butyl Rope wherever it seems to need it
  • Hatch - Between body & hatch frame
  • Trunk - Floor of trunk (I have a sub & amp in lew of spare tire/tools)
  • 4 Doors - I have a little on the front doors already, but I want to add more
  • Glove Box - pad the damper is what I've heard to do here

Since I can easily get to the transmission tunnel, is that worth doing?

After seeing that my wife's CX-5 cabin air filter wasn't too bad at 38k miles, I will wait on mine, since it's only been about 30k miles. I am so jealous as to how easy the cabin air filter is to replace on the CX-5. Considering a Cleenaire filter is like $8 on Amazon, I will probably replace hers quite often. It took LITERALLY 20 SECONDS!!! Why do ours take forever and require a bunch of BS?

Still haven't hammered on my brakes, but I really can't believe how great the EBC Redstuffs and StopTech Slotteds feel in DD conditions. It really has just as much bite as slightly worn OEM pads and rotors, but I'm sure they will take a beating with a lot more grace. Still running stock fluid and lines, and feel no reason no change ATM. Maybe if I get an opportunity to track the car, I will.

The wife is still job hunting. I promised her I won't do my major car upgrades until she finds her new job. But once she finds her high paying dream job, I get my series of upgrades. Can't wait!
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Stereo Mods: Pioneer AVH4100NEX, Phoenix Gold Fronts, Focal Rears, Polk 12" in Trunk Floor Enclosure, PPI 4x125W amp driving Fronts & Sub
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 Old 03-28-2017, 08:47 AM   #39
 
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You need to add a EBC to your list. Bunch of good options, I'm a grimspeed fan personally. Drill the pill out and run it in interrupt mode. Bleed mode is for noobs.

3" generally has better DD road manners than the 3.5", and unless you are going really big BT the 3" should be just fine for a low psi s3 or cs upgrade.

You don't need to buy the egr delete kit unless you just want the extra room. If you simply unplug the connector it does the same thing(unpowered it is closed)

CS TMIC will be fine for you and save you money to boot. ETS is definitely the best, but won't show a gain for the extra $$ based on your current goals. Any TMIC is a huge improvement over stock.

Since you are going to be paying for retunes each time you do something moderately affecting performance I'd suggest you save on the retune costs and try to batch everything into one or two install groupings. That way you only pay for an initial tune and then a follow-up down the road. I'd suggest doing a 3bar in the first group of parts installs. Its cheap, future proofs your setup, takes 15 minutes to install, and doing at the start will make future retunes that much better for readings(stock sensor tends to get 'grainy' a the top of its voltage range).
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Carskick (03-28-2017)
 Old 03-28-2017, 09:35 AM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
You need to add a EBC to your list. Bunch of good options, I'm a grimspeed fan personally. Drill the pill out and run it in interrupt mode. Bleed mode is for noobs.

3" generally has better DD road manners than the 3.5", and unless you are going really big BT the 3" should be just fine for a low psi s3 or cs upgrade.

You don't need to buy the egr delete kit unless you just want the extra room. If you simply unplug the connector it does the same thing(unpowered it is closed)

CS TMIC will be fine for you and save you money to boot. ETS is definitely the best, but won't show a gain for the extra $$ based on your current goals. Any TMIC is a huge improvement over stock.

Since you are going to be paying for retunes each time you do something moderately affecting performance I'd suggest you save on the retune costs and try to batch everything into one or two install groupings. That way you only pay for an initial tune and then a follow-up down the road. I'd suggest doing a 3bar in the first group of parts installs. Its cheap, future proofs your setup, takes 15 minutes to install, and doing at the start will make future retunes that much better for readings(stock sensor tends to get 'grainy' a the top of its voltage range).
I didn't know I need an EBC, but I guess it means that the tune can be more perceive for different RPMS, and it will maintain the correct boost more accurately? I will have to look up will interrupt & bleed mode mean.

I'm definitely not doing 3.5" Intake. Probably 3", though I'm still considering the smaller kits to prevent changing the ECU, and I could do it before a tune. If I stick with stock turbo, not sure how much difference there would be. I will likely only go BT when my K04 dies, and it won't be really big, ie BTR S3. I will probably end up waiting to do all of these upgrades at once, in which case I WILL go 3".

Your opinion on the TMIC lines up exact with mine. ETS is better, but is it worth the extra cost for what I'm doing... probably not. Does Florida heat make it worth it?

I looked into the improved boost sensors. If I'm staying under 20 PSI, will the stock be good enough? I really don't plan on having the tuner push my boost to the max for longevity reasons.

For your reasons you stated, I do plan on doing everything at once. I can't do EGR or intake without the tune, and I'd prefer to wait on test pipe until afterwards. I could theoretically do the TMIC and OCC before the tune, though.

I am keeping an eye out on good deal on parts. But most likely, I will need to allocate $2000-3000, so if I have issues or labor costs any more than expected, I won't be broke! To top it off, my wife really needs tires, and I will to in 5k miles. So that may have to come first.
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Current Performance Mods: JBR 3.0 SRI, ETS TMIC, SpeedDaddy TP, AT HPFP, Damond RMM, Stoptech Slotted Rotors, EBC RedStuff Pads, APv3 Freektune 93 & E-30 (Tuning in progress)
Stereo Mods: Pioneer AVH4100NEX, Phoenix Gold Fronts, Focal Rears, Polk 12" in Trunk Floor Enclosure, PPI 4x125W amp driving Fronts & Sub
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Future Mods:DM OCC, Injector Seals, Clutch, Enkei 17x8.5 PF01 & Continental EC Sport 245/45R17, Struts, Springs, Suspension Bushings, DM PMM & TMM
Removed Mods: JBR 70A RMM
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