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 Old 07-24-2014, 05:48 PM   #1
 
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Okay, in the coming days (week(s)) I'll be swapping a BNR S3 onto my speed6. Here's the quick run down of everything I'll be doing:

Turbo= BNR S3(V2) w/Cobb IWG delete bracket
Manifold= DNP w/38mm Tial wastegate
EGR Delete= Damond Motorsports (full delete)
Trans Mount= Corksport insert
Coilovers= Sonic Tuning
PCV valve= Stock (new)

The manifold and wastegate are still in the mail and I have some other parts on the way but I'll post those up when I actually have them. I'm still debating about getting a 4" HTP intake and making my own battery tray but that's only if the money allows. I also need to talk to Mr. Damond about getting a dual can setup, hopefully there's room for it.

UPDATE: As of 3/30/16, the S3 is gone and am dropping in a BW S362SX-E.

UPDATE 2: New year, new car. As of 1/1/2017 the grey car is gone and the build has moved to another car.


The plan as of now is to self tune with a new map from scratch so eventually I'll also be posting up as I make progress on that. Anyways enough blabbering, on with the photos!















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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings

Last edited by Mazdazilla6; 01-03-2017 at 04:48 AM.
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 Old 07-25-2014, 07:21 AM   #2
 
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Looking forward to watching this install!
Interested to see the BNR go EWG, should be very sweet, and sound fantastic
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 Old 07-26-2014, 02:19 AM   #3
 
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IWG delete bracket is on. Fit great and is solid like a rock. I also picked up both stock side engine mounts, trans mount to make the insert install easier and pmm because mine is completely gone. Also the manifold should be here Monday! Coils are being installed tomorrow.

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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings
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 Old 07-27-2014, 12:30 AM   #4
 
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Got the front suspension done in an hour today. Didn't get anything done on the rears. Couldn't get anything to fit on the upper shock mount bolts. If anyone has any tips that'd be awesome.

I also found the origin of the wheel speed sensor issue I've been having. It seems the wheel/tire rubbed through the insulation.

Lastly I got a little gift in the mail today. Calipers from an evo8 are going on the front. I'm going to check fitment for the rears while I'm at it. I'll be picking up some rotors, pads and stainless lines in the coming weeks to go with them.






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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings

Last edited by Mazdazilla6; 07-27-2014 at 01:48 AM.
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 Old 07-27-2014, 05:15 AM   #5
 
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Easiest way to reach the top shock mount bolts is to drop the rear subframe a bit. Four bolts and four main subframe nuts and use a jack on the diff to control. Just need to lower it about an inch so you can get the extra room.

The forwardssubframe mount is wherethe four bolts are, two on eeach side.


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 Old 07-27-2014, 10:31 AM   #6
 
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Good luck with all of the mods, I'm staying tuned.
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 Old 07-28-2014, 10:29 AM   #7
 
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Got all the rear done yesterday. Now I just need to adjust everything. Thanks to @MATT DAMOND for dropping the knowledge and providing the necessary tools as well as getting dirty. Also to @JTMS3 for getting under it with me and helping with some of the stubborn parts.

I did trim part of my bump stops but @sonic tuning has informed me that I don't need any bump stops so I may go back and remove them when I go adjust the rear ride height (it's a bit on the low side). Also the front passenger strut is making a creaking noise. Everything has been tightened and retightened. Matt thought it might be the pillow ball mount, anyone have any idea? (It's not a swaybar bushing, the bar is disconnected)

As for the tools everything in the second picture is everything you will need to get out all three upper shock mount bolts. Just an offset 14mm wrench and 3/8" ratchet, 6in extension, 14mm socket and swivel joint. I did also lower the subframe as it is a very tight squeeze to wiggle the upper shock mount out of the car once the bolts are out.



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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings
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 Old 07-29-2014, 11:00 PM   #8
 
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Progress has been made! Today was the start of deconstruction. Everything is going pretty smoothly and everything should be out tomorrow once I get an O2 socket. So far the intake mani is out and I've got the new PCV valve ready to go in. I took a peek at my valves and even though the engine only has 25k on it they are surprisingly gummed up so I'll probably clean them, time permitting.

The whole intake, battery, tray and part of the hot and cold pipes are out. The throttle body has been cleaned, I was very pleased to find no oil in the charge pipes. That is probably partly contributory to the slash cut in my downpipe. All of the nuts on the manifold, turbo and downpipe have been broken loose and are either completely removed or are halfway off.


Oh and of course the manifold, wastegate and dump arrived on Monday! Everything seems good, though I'm a little unimpressed with the welds on the elbow for the ewg. They were very obviously done with a stick welder (looks like maybe E7014 or E7018) and whoever did it left quite a mess. But I'm not that concerned, the mani won't be supporting much weight and the elbow has been braced to the head flange so I foresee it lasting a long time.

I've decided I'll be running the black and red springs in the wastegate which is 1bar. I'm not sure if I should water cool it or not, I know it's not necessary but it can't hurt. Also I noticed that there is this ring inside the outlet of the wastegate; does it just sit there and get held in place between the two vband flanges?



I already have my Cobb EBCS but it's set up for a bleed configuration right now. I'll be switching to a 3 port set up and I've been reading about which port should be hooked up where but it seems everyone has a different way of doing it. The way that made the most sense to me was this one:



It seems very simple, but I'm not sure if there is a better method. If anyone has any input on this it would be very much appreciated. @TiGraySpeed6 @Code Monkey @Lex @ms3blackmica @rfinkle2


And now that my wall of text is over here's some more eye candy.











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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings
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 Old 07-30-2014, 05:05 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
I've decided I'll be running the black and red springs in the wastegate which is 1bar. I'm not sure if I should water cool it or not, I know it's not necessary but it can't hurt. Also I noticed that there is this ring inside the outlet of the wastegate; does it just sit there and get held in place between the two vband flanges?


Yes, it just sits there, dont run without it or you will be LOUD and have an exhaust leak (ask me how I know)
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 Old 07-30-2014, 06:07 AM   #10
 
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I was planning to use this routing, but many other will work, it is confusing as hell with all the possibilities.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 08:42 PM   #11
 
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Ok so here is where we sit. Everything but the turbo is out. The whole exhaust side should be done Saturday since I work both my jobs Friday. The rest of the work will probably be done on Monday and possibly Tuesday.

I figured out that EVERY nut for the exhaust mani can be taken off with just a 14mm offset wrench. Also for the life of me I can't seem to get the PCV valve off of the plate. I removed the whole plate and it seems there are tabs on a ring that you need to push in on the ring to spin it to remove the valve but the tabs won't budge at all.

Also I've been wondering if I should pick up new gaskets or not? It would give a lot of piece of mind but all three gaskets (mani, turbo and dp) add up pretty quickly.





EDIT: I also forgot to mention that I slapped the DM EGR delete on. Fits like a glove and gives tons of access to the mani nuts on the driver's side. If you're swapping turbos I definitely recommend picking one of these up.

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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings

Last edited by Mazdazilla6; 07-31-2014 at 09:01 PM.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 08:46 PM   #12
 
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I reused my gaskets + put some copper spray on them.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 08:48 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
I reused my gaskets + put some copper spray on them.
What brand(s) is good? I've never used copper spray.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 08:59 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
I did trim part of my bump stops but sonic tuning has informed me that I don't need any bump stops so I may go back and remove them when I go adjust the rear ride height (it's a bit on the low side). Also the front passenger strut is making a creaking noise. Everything has been tightened and retightened. Matt thought it might be the pillow ball mount, anyone have any idea? (It's not a swaybar bushing, the bar is disconnected)

I don't agree. Those rear springs are only 100lb/in stiffer than the stockers (they're spec'd at 280lb/in). Even if you don't lower the car, without that bump stop, you will hit the frame stop (think of hitting bumps mid corner). So it will go to infinitely shitty near instantly, and you probably won't be happy when that happens.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 09:12 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
I don't agree. Those rear springs are only 100lb/in stiffer than the stockers (they're spec'd at 280lb/in). Even if you don't lower the car, without that bump stop, you will hit the frame stop (think of hitting bumps mid corner). So it will go to infinitely shitty near instantly, and you probably won't be happy when that happens.
Thanks! I thought it sounded a bit odd to remove them completely, that's why I mentioned them in hopes that they might correct themselves or if I had read what they told me wrong.



Also, Clint do you have any ideas on what my mystery creak might be? I'm starting to think it might be the big nut on the top hat so I'm going to check that out once the car is drivable again.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 09:19 PM   #16
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Chances are they didn't actually measure anything on this car. Considering the spring rates they spec'd, I'd say this is the case.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 09:20 PM   #17
 
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nice build. please let us know how the tranny inserts work. this is going to be my next purchase.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 09:26 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Chances are they didn't actually measure anything on this car. Considering the spring rates they spec'd, I'd say this is the case.
I'm pretty sure they're just cookie cutter KW V1's. Maybe I should get some of those fancy QA1 springs you've got.


Originally Posted by weakdog85 View Post
nice build. please let us know how the tranny inserts work. this is going to be my next purchase.
I certainly will. I'm swapping both side mounts either Monday or Tuesday.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 10:07 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
What brand(s) is good? I've never used copper spray.
I used the Permatex Spray-a-gasket hi-temp sealant, item # 80697.
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 Old 08-01-2014, 04:04 AM   #20
 
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You've probably seen this thread by now but I found it helpful getting the PCV out.

How To: Change your stock PCV Valve and Venturi Set Up

There's a good comment near the bottom that helped.
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 Old 08-01-2014, 04:51 AM   #21
 
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^^^^ That thread has the key pic that explains getting the PCV valve out.

You need to pry the cap over those two tabs, and be very very careful not to break that retainer ring or you'll be heading to the dealer for another one. I used a razor to carefully pry the edge of the ring out & over the tabs.


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 Old 08-01-2014, 11:12 AM   #22
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For the boost control solenoid setup remember the following.

When the solenoid is not energized ports 2 and 3 connected. Port 1 holds whatever pressure has been built up behind it.
When the solenoid IS energized ports 2 and 1 are connected. Port 3 holds whatever pressure has been built up behind it.

So in the diagram above with a dual port wastegate, when you increased WGDC you will start adding pressure to the top of the diaphragm to keep it closed. The port 1 and 3 when not connected to port 2 are sealed. This means that you will keep building pressure on both sides of the diaphragm.

This allows you to run a very small pressure differential across the diaphragm and therefore a very light spring. If you go with a heavy spring you might have an issue with controlling boost.

With a heavier spring this is the alternate configuration to run. Start with low WGDC to begin with.

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 Old 08-01-2014, 11:19 AM   #23
 
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Thanks! That really clears up everything for me! Is there any benefit for me to run a lighter spring and feeding boost to the top port besides being able to run lower boost? If no, then I'm going to set it up according to the diagram you posted.

Also if I vent the top port to the atmosphere can I just leave the barb off and use it for water cooling? @Lex
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 Old 08-01-2014, 11:23 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Thanks! That really clears up everything for me! Is there any benefit for me to run a lighter spring and feeding boost to the top port besides being able to run lower boost? If no, then I'm going to set it up according to the diagram you posted.

Also if I vent the top port to the atmosphere can I just leave the barb off and use it for water cooling? @Lex
This is something to play with on your particular setup but swapping springs is a PITA. Most cars run a 12-14psi spring and route just to the bottom of the diaphragm.

You don't need a barb on the top if venting to atmosphere.
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 Old 08-02-2014, 06:46 AM   #25
 
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@Lex; what about this set up? Its a bit different and is what I run. Curious your thoughts based on your description. Seems to run well.

uploadfromtaptalk1406987129832.jpg

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 Old 08-04-2014, 09:48 PM   #26
 
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Ok so the turbo is mostly in... The drain pipe is utter hell on the 6 and I ended up almost rounding one of the bolts so I had to order another which won't be in until Wednesday. But! The oil feed as well as the coolant feed and drain are set and ready to go. I did reuse the fucked up drain bolt to get the drain mated to the turbo and it's finger tight so I'll just swap in the new one when I get it.





I put both of the side motor mounts in. Passenger side was a breeze but the trans mount was kind of annoying since there's such limited access to get to the bolts that hold it to the frame of the car.



The new PCV valve is in. I read through that thread that was linked and was expecting a rough time getting the ring off the plate but I had it off in 30 secs and threw the new valve in.



I also put the springs in the wastegate. I know plenty of people have had quite the adventure doing this but I threw it in a vice, tightened it and made sure the springs didn't get cocked and threaded the bolts in by hand. Took me 5 mins start to finish.



The one issue I'm having right now is getting the bracket under the compressor inlet bolted onto the turbo. I've tried prying, wedging, heaving, pulling, thrusting, shoving, and wiggling both the turbo and the line and I can't get it to line up. Do people even bolt this thing back up?



So here is where we sit until Wednesday and I get that bolt. Everything on the front of the engine is back together except for some hot and cold piping and bolting the power steering pump back on. The boost controller is all ready to go and I've got the lines laid out and ready to be connected. I decided to forgo cleaning the intake valves since I took another look at them and decided they weren't THAT bad so I'll probably clean them when I get a ported mani. Once I get the new oil drain bolt in I can throw everything in and I should be good to go. Also, I've made my baseline map to get the car running on spring pressure so I'm crossing my fingers it'll start up on the first try.

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Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
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 Old 08-05-2014, 05:06 AM   #27
 
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I dont think most people use the under mount support for the turbo. I know I dont have one on mine and things have been fine.
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 Old 08-05-2014, 05:24 AM   #28
 
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I did not reuse the turbo bracket, fuck that thing.
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 Old 08-05-2014, 07:20 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by maisonvi View Post
I dont think most people use the under mount support for the turbo. I know I dont have one on mine and things have been fine.
Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
I did not reuse the turbo bracket, fuck that thing.
I reused the bracket that bolts to the block. It fit fine, it's just the bracket under the comp inlet that's connected to a heater core line which I can't get lined up with the turbo.
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 Old 08-06-2014, 10:29 PM   #30
 
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Update time. I didn't have much time to work on it today as I had other callings but I got the new drain bolt and the turbo is completely in now as well as the manifold. I really want to be done with it tomorrow and I don't see any reason why I shouldn't be but I'm not going to make any promises.



After wiggling the manifold into place, which required pulling the pmm and rocking the engine forward, I noticed it is awfully close to the firewall. Should I lay down some thermal tape on the back of the firewall or am I safe to leave it as is?



And I snagged this since I had to pull the turbo because the drain refused to line up for me. I also forgot to mention in my last update that I pulled the comp housing bolts and sealed them all with ptfe since people have reported them leaking.

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 Old 08-07-2014, 05:20 AM   #31
 
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I do not have any extra thermal tape close to where the EM is to the firewall but my EM is ceramic coated. I would say drive for a while and see if you need anything there.
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 Old 08-07-2014, 05:40 AM   #32
 
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It's probably too late for this now, but removing the cowling free's up a metric shit-ton more room to do turbo & ex header work if needed...


How to: Free up room for turbo work





.
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 Old 08-07-2014, 07:21 AM   #33
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I also could not get the heater core line bracket to line up, but that turbo with the stock turbo brace isn't going anywhere. Also you can buy sheets of peel and stick reflective heatshielding for like 20-30 bucks for 12"x24"
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 Old 08-07-2014, 08:01 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
It's probably too late for this now, but removing the cowling free's up a metric shit-ton more room to do turbo & ex header work if needed...


How to: Free up room for turbo work





.
I do this everytime I work on my engine. Free's up soo much room!
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 Old 08-07-2014, 09:58 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
It's probably too late for this now, but removing the cowling free's up a metric shit-ton more room to do turbo & ex header work if needed...


How to: Free up room for turbo work
Yea I thought about doing that. The mani would have fit fine if it didn't have the ewg elbow on the back of it. Pulling the pmm and rocking the engine took me less than 10 mins so either way would have probably been fine but I've never pulled the cowl and didn't want to sit down and find out how.

Originally Posted by neganox View Post
I also could not get the heater core line bracket to line up, but that turbo with the stock turbo brace isn't going anywhere. Also you can buy sheets of peel and stick reflective heatshielding for like 20-30 bucks for 12"x24"
That's what I was thinking. A 12x12 sheet at advance is like $15 so I figure it won't hurt.
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Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
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 Old 08-07-2014, 10:02 PM   #36
 
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Today was very frustrating. The train home got delayed two hours so I got a late start. And to top it off I'm now missing a vband bolt for the wastegate. Only stuff left to do it reconnect the hotpipe, intake, battery and put the serp belt back on the ps pulley. And of course try to find that damn bolt which I spent over an hour looking for with no luck. IT WILL BE DONE SATURDAY.

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Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
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 Old 08-12-2014, 07:27 AM   #37
 
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Well,

IT'S DONE!

I finished up yesterday, had to wait the whole day for someone to come home to hold the tensioner for me while I slipped the belt back on the PS pulley. Unfortunately I still haven't found the bolt for the wastegate but I'm hoping it'll fall out once I pull the car out of the garage. But I'm extremely happy to not see anything leaking which was my biggest fear.

I've decided I'm going to lay some thermal tape on the firewall and wrap the dump tube in header wrap because it is a very tight squeeze between the primary O2 wire and the line I have running to my slashcut. I also need to grab a couple more uber mini hose clamps for the rest of my boost controller connections.

First voyage will be tonight after I get home from work and assuming everything is sealed and works as should I will also begin tuning. I took a vid of the initial start up, I'll post it up later.
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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
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 Old 08-12-2014, 10:36 AM   #38
 
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Video of start up NOW!
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2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT BCM: 114k miles, never modded (Totaled March 2013)
1969 Ford Ranchero: 351 Windsor, Edelbrock 600cfm, fully re-done interior (w/ Grant steering wheel, '91 T-Bird SC racing bucket seats), C-6 Automatic Trans w/ shifter kit, First, body work, then drag racing and dumping money into it.
1969 Pontiac Firebird: 4:11 gears, 28x10 ET Streets (Middle of restoration with father)
1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4: 174k miles, 5 speed, Fiberglass Baja Front clip, 2in body lift, 4in suspension lift, 33x10 BFG All-Terrains, Custom Smittybuilt Bumpers, Custom Intake (SOLD)
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 Old 08-12-2014, 10:50 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by maisonvi View Post
I dont think most people use the under mount support for the turbo. I know I dont have one on mine and things have been fine.
I re-used dis. I dunno why....just felt right. Like box wine to get classy drunk for FF. RIght, @LynzeC; ?
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 Old 08-12-2014, 11:10 AM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by rymanmazda View Post
Video of start up NOW!
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Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars

2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38
Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings

Last edited by Mazdazilla6; 08-17-2014 at 10:13 PM.
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