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 Old 03-27-2018, 09:32 AM   #1
 
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Default My Ms6 build in progress

Hello

I was driving a speed3 for 9-10 years and the fun ended last February by a fire. Instead of buying a ms3 shell, i got a black base MS6. It was up and running but in need of some love.

Pictures to come soon....

I just got the car, replaced the brakes, had to reprogram the windows controls...installed a new cobb v3.

The car came with a Corksport 2 pieces downpipe and an electric cut out. Probably without pumps internal!!!...Will correct that point at first.
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 03-27-2018, 09:38 AM   #2
 
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Some pictures of the rust to repair
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180311_110636_resized.jpg (1.19 MB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg 20180311_110644_resized.jpg (1.34 MB, 25 views)
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 03-27-2018, 11:31 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Some pictures of the rust to repair
Given how much rust my car has in the rear wheel arches, I'll be very interested to see how you go about getting the repair done, and how much it costs.

Best of luck with the new project!
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 Old 03-27-2018, 03:52 PM   #4
 
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That Canadian weight loss mod eh?

Congrats, hope you got it cheap!!
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 Old 03-27-2018, 08:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
had to reprogram the windows controls...

so you rolled them halfway down, then rolled them back up? hard work
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 Old 03-27-2018, 08:21 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Pu Manchu View Post
so you rolled them halfway down, then rolled them back up? hard work
I'm so lazy, I only go about 1/2".
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 Old 03-28-2018, 05:48 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Pu Manchu View Post
so you rolled them halfway down, then rolled them back up? hard work
Looking at it, this way, seem easy but if you take it at the beginning:....
My first diagnostic has been: The control is broken.....So i removed the door trim, opened the switch to see if i can swap parts from the one of my ms3. This use tiny torks screw and i don't have that size. modded a small flat screw driver to fit and opened it, to find out, there is nothing we can easily swap. Then i explained to my gf that i need to go to a ''serve yourself'' junkyard on a Saturday morning instead of going to the maple shack with her. (Her father do that at this time of the year...)
Went to that ''serve yourself'' junkyard looking for similar controls. Obviously there was no speed in there but found plenty of mz6. Unfortunately Mz6 controls are differents for the wiring connection. I did try mz5...it looks similar. I did see a 2007 cx7 with similar control too...
But that cx7 was still having the l3vdt engine on it...i asked myself, how hard it would be to remove it there without power tools...and finally look at the oil level to find a dry pan and a hole in the bloc....
I took time to observe a guy trying to fit a full length exhaust in the back of his accord sedan with about 10feets of pipe outside of the car driving away .....
Came back home to test the switch and none worked probably because it use the canbuss and need to fit with the ecm????
Then i found about the reprog while searching on google about it. And after i gave it a try, it worked.
Since i broke 2 of the holding clip, i went to my ms3 to take some and use it for the ms6 trim. I put it back and tested the windows again!
Next time, it will be easier....
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....

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 Old 03-28-2018, 06:18 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Given how much rust my car has in the rear wheel arches, I'll be very interested to see how you go about getting the repair done, and how much it costs.

Best of luck with the new project!
Thanks but to be honest, i will have it done soon. (I'm not bad with mechanic but bodywork is another story.....
A local body shop will do it with new metal material. (not fill it with mastic)
He will also remove the windshield to repair the rust on the roof, polish the headlight and fix 2-3 dents around for 1900$ (It was less than half for the fender)


For the rear fender, You can also buy the arch around the wheel and just cut and replace it...it was about +/-100$ for the metal part.
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....

Last edited by Jeff23spl; 03-28-2018 at 06:30 AM.
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 Old 03-28-2018, 06:28 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by kTaLgsTo View Post
That Canadian weight loss mod eh?

Congrats, hope you got it cheap!!
unfortunately you are right, it is hard to find a 11 years old car in perfect shape around here
Going south with the risks to find one with about 1.35x of money exchange rate and then have to pay import fees at the custom then pay again for a road safety inspection etc wasn't a better option....
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 03-28-2018, 08:59 AM   #10
 
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btw a question if you ever drive a ms3 and an ms6 back to back.... I feel the steering heavier, it is probably normal but also with a kind of resistance from the center point to each side movement? I started to pay attention to it and even on the lift, when i move the wheel to one side, it came back to the middle by itself. (Like if a rubber band would pull them back. The suspension is different and i'm more used to McPherson so maybe it is just normal.... it isn't because a shock tower bearing is bad or a bushing is shot or something else ?
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 03-29-2018, 11:06 AM   #11
 
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Check your power steering fluid level. It may also need to be flushed. I have not yet driven a MS3 but find my steering to be rather light and responsive. Especially compared to new rental cars I often get due to my MS6 needing to be fixed again, and again.... Lol.

Keep in mind my toe settings are zero front and rear. This makes the steering a bit faster to respond on turn in.
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 Old 03-29-2018, 11:53 AM   #12
 
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My steering feels heavy like you describe, but I have a slight toe-out issues that is killing my crap tires because I've been too lazy to fix it.
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 Old 03-29-2018, 02:18 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
My steering feels heavy like you describe, but I have a slight toe-out issues that is killing my crap tires because I've been too lazy to fix it.
Bad tie rods or just out of spec?
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 Old 03-29-2018, 02:25 PM   #14
 
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I think it's been out of spec from the day I had an alignment done.

Ever since, my car tries to follow the grooves in the road, but the biggest identifier is the inner 1-1/2" of tread is wearing down to the cords.
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Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
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CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
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 Old 03-29-2018, 02:36 PM   #15
 
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I keep looking for a super cheap ms6 someone has given up on, I am not sure why I want a money pit...
I'll be interested to see your progression
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 Old 03-29-2018, 08:08 PM   #16
 
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Discovered something else today that may need urgent attention. The car was overboosting with stock tune, i assumed it was the DP on stock tune but even with 0% it overboost badly.
-I checked vaccuum for leaks....(seem ok)
-when i try with air to activate the wg it works and move....
-even with the solenoid disconnected, it overboost beyound the map reading range very quickly.

When i connect the top WG hose (that should go to to the EBCS) back into an intake vacuum, i run at spring pressure so it isn't creep but something wrong with the boost source...
Either the turbo pills is blocked or the bottom hose has an invisible crack...

I will try to access it without removing the turbo but it may be a pita....
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....

Last edited by Jeff23spl; 03-30-2018 at 11:03 AM.
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 Old 04-03-2018, 09:07 AM   #17
 
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It was the boost port on the k04....but guess what?....I didn't had the right tool and tried with a tiny drill bit....My tool broke inside! right at the tip and i couldn't remove it........

It was time to install a 3ports ebcs...
I swaped the hpfp from my speed3 at the same time....


The 6 have a lot more space than a 3 in that area! I was thinking of how easy it will be to install a large intake tube!

Next step would be the methanol install....Just not sure yet if i try a temporary setup on the stock tmic discharge side or, i get everything to swap the GT28 in and go for 1 injector per intake runner....(I miss equal size injector and a good fmic kit...)
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If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 04-04-2018, 11:27 AM   #18
 
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btw some picture of a stock and ugly engine bay after years of northern winter...
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
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...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 04-04-2018, 04:34 PM   #19
 
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Thumbs up for daily driving a black speed6 in the winter....

I couldn't deal with the salt and the dirt getting all over the paint and making it look like poo...so it's a 3 season car.

Chicago Winters aren't nice to cars.
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 Old 04-04-2018, 04:59 PM   #20
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rust on every bolt, looks like fun
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 Old 05-17-2018, 01:05 PM   #21
 
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I forgot i made stuff on the 3 little by little over a 10 year time frame....Switching everything to the 6 takes a bit more time than i was expecting....
After the FMIC install i decided i will do the turbo later and ride it for now.

Installed the spin on filter hoosing.

Fmic on a 6 is a bit more work than the 3 and i took time to spend some paint to help a little bit. will never be a show car but it should help if you look at my first pics.

Here are some pictures.

I didn't like the first hot pipe so i re-used the one from my 3 and will get the other one bend a little more to better fit in place.

I had in mind to drill the IM and fit 4 small nozzle but i cannot figure out yet if i would need 4 check valves to avoid siphon or if just one can work fine so i drilled the cold pipe for now and just anstalled 1 500cc nozzle there until i switch the k04.....

I will paint the valve cover and replace the intake soon to help it a little more. I just need time to do the valve cleaning job at the same time.
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
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1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....

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 Old 09-14-2018, 12:21 PM   #22
 
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i installed the CS diff mount a while ago without reporting results.

The rear one was completly dead and front one was fine.

After install, the shifts are definitely easier, the clunking noise when pushing the car is gone also. IT induce some winning noise but i'm not sure yet if i don't have a falling wheel bearing at the same time.

I did some hard acceleration while turning recently and the noise seem to get worst after. I tough i could have damaged the T-case at first but the noise disapear when i turn right and seem to come from the rear wheels so maybe the rear passenger bearing is going.....Will see...

Water/meth is done also, i just need to fit some green and red leds somewhere to see the contrôler working or faulty. I discovered something that i missed on the 3. My Torque advanced meth controler is connected to the Maf/boost and tach but if i remove the 12v power to it with a switch, it blur the maf signal going to the ecu and the car sputter like shit. I would need to find another way to switch off the meth, probably killing the solenoid..... I do remember it happened to the 3 back then but i didn't find it was coming from the controller being switched off....Now i know...
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
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1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 09-14-2018, 12:25 PM   #23
 
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Installing diff mounts on mine also transmits rear end whine, above 30-40mph I guess. Disengaging rear diff while driving makes the whine disappear entirely leading me to believe, in my case at least, that the whine is simply the ring and pinion noise.
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 Old 09-14-2018, 02:03 PM   #24
 
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to disengage the rear diff you removed the drive shaft or what?
I wonder if we can break something to drive in fwd mode....Just in case someday i want to dyno it on a 2wd machine....
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
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...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 09-14-2018, 02:19 PM   #25
 
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Just pull up on the ebrake enough to turn on the light.
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 Old 09-27-2018, 11:48 AM   #26
 
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I made tests with and without ebrake to compare but the conclusion return that it works but i would also need a clutch sooner than i was expecting.

By the time, i bought another black 6 for parts, I will get pictures soon but that one is really rusted with a hole in the engine bloc. It is a gt (mine isn't) i don't know how hard it is to swap some of the gt options. The keyless entry seem fun but i read few problem with it....Side mirrors doesn't seem heated like mine and exept the weak leather heated seat, and roof, i don't see much differences?
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1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
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2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

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If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 09-28-2018, 09:54 AM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
to disengage the rear diff you removed the drive shaft or what?
I wonder if we can break something to drive in fwd mode....Just in case someday i want to dyno it on a 2wd machine....
You could look through the wiring diagrams for the ECU and trick it instead of wiring a switch in parallel with the ebrake switch. EBTEC did the ECU input mod.

I don't know the details as I just read they had accomplished it in order to dyno tune a customers MS6 in FWD mode safely. I saw it on Facebook so its not fake news, I swear!
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 Old 09-28-2018, 12:07 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
You could look through the wiring diagrams for the ECU and trick it instead of wiring a switch in parallel with the ebrake switch. EBTEC did the ECU input mod.

I don't know the details as I just read they had accomplished it in order to dyno tune a customers MS6 in FWD mode safely. I saw it on Facebook so its not fake news, I swear!
Facebook is always legit !

if i open the circuit that load the clutch on the rear diff, it will be fwd with the drive shaft rotating as long as the diff clutch don't have a mechanical preload and keep slipping to overheat...i will have to look into it. But anyway unless you want to fwd dyno or burn the tires, there isn't much time you wouldn't preffer it awd.

Btw, when we were strapping the other 6 i got for parts, my friend saw that it was missing passenger rear axle, we asked the guy and he said he ran it without that axles for more than a year without problems....probably in fwd or at best in 3wd...I didn't checked yet how they plugged the hole....This time of the year is a bit busy for everything i have to prepare for the coming snow season but after all that, i will disassemble it and check every part very closely.
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....

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 Old 09-28-2018, 01:08 PM   #29
 
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There is preload in the rear coupler. I highly advise against FWD dyno time.
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 Old 11-26-2018, 06:55 AM   #30
 
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Shy progress for now, i replaced a rear passenger wheel bearing....It went better than expected, the rust didn't win....i just had a bad time because i mixed 1.25 and 1.5mm nut thread from the control arm and bolt nuts...

Next surprise: My almost new speed3 16'' winter tires didn't fit in the front even if the disc is the same size, the 6 caliper is thicker and doesn't allow it....All in here probably know it except me, but it was a deception....
The best option would have been to sell them and get 17inch....but i did just gives my 17inch wheel to my g-f for her cx7 new tires...I would have to buy a set of mags + tires

I decided to downgrade front brakes to Mazda6 2006-13 12'' disc to make it fit, anyway for winter, traction goes out well before brakes fade....
And... these 12'' brakes would be a good upgrade for my old Ford Probe 10.x'' brakes when these tires will be worn out...
The hub design remain all compatible since 1993 for the brakes braket and stuff.

(180$ vs probably 5-600 for mags and new tires minus the price of seling my 16...)
This will allow sandblasting my 12.6'' caliper for next summer...

Replaced transmission oil with Ford XT something juice. Btw do you know a trick to fill up these things (TraNS/Tcase/diff) I use a hose on a nozzle screwed to the oil pint but it often end-up messy...

Next job would be the diff seal on the driver side...Will take it for a drive before just to make sure that bearing isn't shot also since it is the same work...

Will soon be back on the road for snow drift.
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 11-26-2018, 07:08 AM   #31
 
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You need something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...a-567908546846
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Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 11-26-2018, 09:12 AM   #32
 
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Well, i will get that asap! thanks. I though there was just expensive tool for that
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 01-07-2019, 01:50 PM   #33
 
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Opened up my forged spare engine during chrismas holidays to see what i could do with it. (Remember that my old 3 catch in fire last winter after a good wot because a lot of oil leaked on the exaust.)
I was expecting to see a damaged piston or something that makes a lot of blow by....but no instant damages found...It confirm the fire was really because of a frozen occ line

I first removed piston #2 and #3 than #1 to see if Manley ringland could have been damaged and of course it wasn't. (Larger gap and stronger metal)
My compression ring gap wasn't that huge like i though, it was of about 0.021-22''
But i made oil rings of about 0.025....That is probably too much i cannot remember why i made it like that.

I started wondering if just that 0.025'' could have been enough to have an engine to consume quite much oil.
After lunch, i removed the #4 expecting to be in perfect shape because that one isn't working much...
When i took the all rings appart to check gap, i found there was missing a part of the last oil ring
Then confirmed the cylinder was grooved...
The day that started pretty well took a different feeling...I would probably need a new bloc....

I don't see any reason that ring could have break under stress so i think i pinched it at time of install few years ago. You probably know about that feeling when you realize you failed
I expect It ran with the ring end torn until it breaks and the broken end rubbed it's way into the cylinder wall since then.

The bloc was already bored to 88mm so i I grinded it a bit with a coarse stone to see how much deep is the groove.
Here are some pictures of the damages.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg received_294727951182663.jpeg (120.4 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpeg received_356970538435628.jpeg (54.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpeg received_2194362394111059.jpeg (53.5 KB, 16 views)
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 01-07-2019, 01:56 PM   #34
 
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If I recall correctly, my gaps are .024/.026.
My OCC is vented to atmosphere and I can smell oil during pulls if my windows are open or my dash vents are pulling outside air. But, the OCC filter is always dry, so I'm not worried about it.
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
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 Old 01-07-2019, 02:20 PM   #35
 
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I spent the rest of the day analyzing how i could have made that mistake.

What do you guys think ?

My ring compressor is old but seem ok, (i have a metal strap model that you crank with a 1/4'' drive ratchet)
I carefully pushed them in with a piece of wood and a small hammer...

What about the ring holder, that part W shaped? I gaped it about the same 0.025'' gap and it look perfect in the cylinder wall but when i try to compress it into the piston groove, each ends touch each other and sometimes one end want to step above the other end. This could be what happened if i compressed the ring set a bit too much...

For next time, Can i cut that holder shorter with a large gap to better fit into the piston groove without affecting anything else ?


I honed it a bit more to see if i could get rid of the groove without enlarging it too much but it is deep. I'm not sure how loose i could go with it before having piston slap problems. Someone told me not to exceed 0.0065'' ???

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
If I recall correctly, my gaps are .024/.026.
My OCC is vented to atmosphere and I can smell oil during pulls if my windows are open or my dash vents are pulling outside air. But, the OCC filter is always dry, so I'm not worried about it.
what about oil consumption ?
__________________
Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....

Last edited by Jeff23spl; 01-07-2019 at 02:20 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 02-04-2019, 10:19 AM   #36
 
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i just installed a magnaflow catback this weekend bough used last summer...
I have a cobb catless dp and was still on the oem cat back. the Y pipe flange just broke so i was looking to repair it but made the move to the 2.5'' exaust. Not huge but i could see a peak flow improvement of 10-12 g/s...

Unfortunately, it smell oil a lot. it was probably on a smoking car or mine was smoking and the oem exaust was hidding it but the first option is more likely...

It drone a little bit more than i would like so maybe i will add a resonator as a test pipe.



No more development on my forged engine, it is still a bit cold to go get a spare bloc at selfservice junkyard and i totaled my 3-sky against a dear so everything is in hold around it.
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 02-04-2019, 11:39 AM   #37
 
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I have the CS resonated test pipe, with catless DP and MF catback. Despite EVERYONE telling me it's too quiet, it's plenty loud for my taste. Very little drone inside.
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 02-05-2019, 04:32 PM   #38
 
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What's wrong with quiet? I like quiet.
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 Old 02-06-2019, 09:21 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by GohanX View Post
What's wrong with quiet? I like quiet.
nothing wrong at all, i think we get older and think about our neighborhood because i'm the first to dislike very loud exaust on the street. vehicle that make more noise than it move forward look rice to me....But at some point, it get hard to makes power with quiet exaust.

At first try, it wasn't that bad but after some wot use and highway drive, i will definitely install a resonator...

Btw the oil small kinda diminish the more i push the car with it so it is probably accumulated oil from the old user...
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 02-06-2019, 10:23 AM   #40
 
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One of the things I love a bout the speed is that if you keep it under about 3000 rpms it's actually quiet as a mouse and doesn't get attention. Then I see some 100 hp 4 cylinder with a straight pipe take off at a light sounding like an angry lawnmower and going slow as hell and it makes me laugh.
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