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 Old 01-25-2015, 09:32 AM   #1
 
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Default Slowest build thread ever

Well I figured I would make a thread with my upcoming plans for my 07 Speed 3.

After owning the car for about 2 years and loving every second of it I have decided I soon want to stop piling the Kilometers on it and stop winter driving it. I plan on retiring it to strictly track and occasional road use.

I tracked the car all summer at my Local road course and really enjoyed it, so much actually that I bought a few sets of slicks. Even just sitting on lowering springs and Koni shocks the car performs really really well.


Over the winter I have been making a list of the things I want to do and buy. First thing was I needed to fix the paint that has started falling off various parts of the car.



Getting all this fixed and painted professionaly was going to cost me thousands. So I decided to just plastidip it metallic black/grey. This has ended up being more expensive than I thought so hopefully it will last a while anyway.


Early summer I picked up a Turbo XS catless downpipe and racepipe from Tokay444 for a killer deal. So before I do anything else suspension or performance wise I'm getting internals and an AP then getting the car tuned. I'm not really sure how much more power this will make over stock with an intake and downpipe. It will be interesting to find out.


After I get all that done I'm looking into coilovers so I can eventually get corner weights done. Since there are soooo many different brands of coilovers out there I did a bunch of research and came to the conclusion that 90% of them are Chinese junk. I really like the KW variants but they are huge $, so I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up with a set of H&R coils. All the reviews are great and they use custom valved Bilstein shocks to match the springs, so win win. My local speed shop also supports H&R and Bilstein so service would be close by.


Picked up some Hawk DTC 60 race pads pads for the front and rear. They are being paired with blank rotors from NAPA.



I eventually an going to pick up some camber and toe arms for the rear to replace the stamped steel junk that's in there now. It would be nice to finally be able to adjust the rear camber properly. I like the design of the arms from Corksport, I'm a fan of rod ends.



I have been looking into different pieces of chassis bracing and from the looks of it most of them do nothing. The only pieces I will probably add are the mid chassis brace and the front lower chassis brace. These look lighter and stronger than there stock counterparts.



I already have Poly bushing in all the control arms as well as the Anti lift kit so with the above parts it will pretty much finish off the suspension work, maybe I'll throw in a bumpsteer correction kit to fix some of the lowered suspension geometry.


After all above work is finished the car is going on a diet. My AC is already broken and my stereo doesn't work, so both of those can be removed. I have no idea how to remove the AC system so more research will be required when that time comes. All the speakers can be removed along with all non essential interior panels and trim. As much as I want to remove the steering wheel and airbags I probably wont because I do still want to drive this on the street during the weekends and stuff. The drivers seat has already been swapped to a Sparco Pro 2000 race seat and I will go with the wider model for the passenger seat eventually. Back seats have been removed for a while now



When all this is said and done I should have a very rough, very loud but very very fun car that I can drive to the track, go kill some Vettes and other high priced cars, then drive home.

Cheers guys
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4

Last edited by brandon3212; 04-22-2015 at 07:10 PM.
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 Old 01-25-2015, 09:49 AM   #2
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Personally I feel the H&R Coilovers are too soft for track/autox. They are great in my car for daily driving, but not much else. Either way, good luck with the build!
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 Old 01-25-2015, 09:51 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by sho View Post
Personally I feel the H&R Coilovers are too soft for track/autox. They are great in my car for daily driving, but not much else. Either way, good luck with the build!
I haven't heard that one before, interesting. Thnx though, I'm going to have to look into that one.
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 01-25-2015, 10:47 AM   #4
 
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Just out of curiosity, how much did it cost you to dip the car?
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 Old 01-25-2015, 11:55 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by smoogs12 View Post
Just out of curiosity, how much did it cost you to dip the car?
By the time I'm all said and done it will be around $600, thats to my door taxes in. 3-1/2 gallons of black and 3 gallons of clear with pearls

I screwed up the first time around and had to buy more black to redo 3 doors and I didnt buy enough clear or pearls.
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 01-25-2015, 02:03 PM   #6
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how much would it have been if it went smoothly the first time?

and do you have a completed pic?
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 Old 01-25-2015, 02:35 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
how much would it have been if it went smoothly the first time?

and do you have a completed pic?
If I was to do this again I could have probably painted the whole car for about $455 (without shipping and taxes). If I didn't screw up when peeling the tape off the windows I wouldnt have had to buy the extra gallon of black and clear. I could have done the car with 3 gallons of black, 2 gallons of clear, 4 bags of pearls and 1 bottle of sealing spray.

I will have a completed picture sometime this week. I'm still waiting for the extra clear coat and pearls to get here.

EDIT: This is the effect I was going for, I obviously didn't add enough pearls to my clear coat because it just looks so dull in comparison.
http://www.dipyourcar.com/forums/sho...l-Lots-of-pics
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 01-26-2015, 06:15 AM   #8
 
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Before you buy the corksport rodend pieces, I would make sure you can get replacement bearings. Hardrace is another manufacturer that produces rear end components with rod ends, replaceable, I believe.
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 Old 01-26-2015, 06:38 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by zenit View Post
Before you buy the corksport rodend pieces, I would make sure you can get replacement bearings. Hardrace is another manufacturer that produces rear end components with rod ends, replaceable, I believe.
That is something I will have to look into with the corksport arms.

Hardrace claims in there descriptions that their pillow pall equipped, from the pics it's pretty hard to tell. If they are I would say that the one side of the camber arm used a press fit sleeved bearing since it obviously doesn't thread in like the corksport. I might be able to get the bearings Hardrace uses locally, I need to look into both options since they both look weird.
HARDRACE GLOBAL
http://www.hardrace.com/Product_deta...36&Car_Type=65

On another note, the H&R coils have been reported to be very "soft" by many people, not just here. I'm currently looking into Bilstein B14's and KW V1's, both supplied from Canadian distributors.

Essex Distributors - Bilstein Shock Absorbers
http://www.tdotperformance.ca/kw-sus...__store=canada
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 01-26-2015, 08:56 PM   #10
 
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Those are definitely "pillowball" or spherical bearings. the black piece is a seal.

Also, at one point hardrace produced a pillowball style bushing for the front of control blade. I can't seem to find it now...
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 Old 01-26-2015, 09:37 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by zenit View Post
Those are definitely "pillowball" or spherical bearings. the black piece is a seal.

Also, at one point hardrace produced a pillowball style bushing for the front of control blade. I can't seem to find it now...
Cool, it's kind of hard to tell from the pics. The control blade bearing has me interested, I'm going to have to look further into that.
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 02-01-2015, 12:55 PM   #12
 
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plastidip complete




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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 02-01-2015, 04:04 PM   #13
 
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That shit looks cosmic blue.

I love the paint matched emblems. I was considering doing that rather than debadging.
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 Old 02-05-2015, 04:54 PM   #14
 
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Dood! I love the orange! I think imma do that on my stocker!
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 Old 02-05-2015, 05:12 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by brandon3212 View Post
plastidip complete




Looks nice bro

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 Old 03-07-2015, 01:15 AM   #16
 
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Well I FINALLY bought an AP, internals and a custom tune. I'm getting tuned by Stratified, I chose them because they seem to have really good feedback and are also Canadian (bonus!).

I am starting a list of things I might need for my downpipe install. I picked up some heat tape and wrap, I also plan on getting all new fasteners for everything.

I'm also really tempted to pick up an aftermarket exhaust manifold, I know the gains on stock turbo are pretty small but that stock manifold is literally the biggest turd I have ever seen in my life. If I can find one that clears the TMIC and isn't crazy expensive I might jump on it. I also want to get the $200 exhaust system replaced with a higher quality 3" mandrel bent straight pipe so that will probably come first.

When I get a chance I'm going to get a smaller battery and move it to the trunk. Thanks to the wealth of info on here I can figure out how to route all the cables under the car instead of going through the interior.

Also the orange wheels have to go, I hate everything about them.
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 Old 03-09-2015, 08:25 PM   #17
 
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Got some heat management stuff in today. 2" and 1" DEI titanium heat wrap for the downpipe and stock manifold. Also got some gold foil stuff that I'm thinking of using around the intercooler.

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 Old 03-10-2015, 10:35 AM   #18
 
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I just moved my battery to the trunk. I used the Deka ETX20L battery and a corresponding Braille bracket. Also put in a circuit kill switch so I don't have to disconnect the battery if I want to turn the power off to the car.


Here is how I have the ECU mounted with a Track Masters ECU Bracket: http://www.etrackmasters.com/product...a-ecu-bracket/
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 Old 03-10-2015, 06:55 PM   #19
 
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That's awesome, very clean install

I plan on installing my battery in the spare tirewell. I'll fab up my own brackets since I work in an assembly shop.
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 Old 03-10-2015, 06:57 PM   #20
 
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Nice. I couldn't get it to fit right in the spare tire well. And I wanted to be able to keep an eye on it.
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 Old 03-10-2015, 07:08 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
Nice. I couldn't get it to fit right in the spare tire well. And I wanted to be able to keep an eye on it.
I'm still undecided on what size of battery I'm going to run. I still want the car to start when it's cold, but the track rat inside of me says go small, light and forget everything else.

I will have no issues keeping an eye on my battery since I have no carpets or back seats
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 Old 03-10-2015, 07:14 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by brandon3212 View Post
I'm still undecided on what size of battery I'm going to run. I still want the car to start when it's cold, but the track rat inside of me says go small, light and forget everything else.

I will have no issues keeping an eye on my battery since I have no carpets or back seats
Yeah I went with the deka battery because they are the supplier to braille but at 1/3 the cost. Got my battery for 86 shipped.
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 Old 04-06-2015, 06:16 PM   #23
 
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Hey guys, it's been a while.



So Sunday last weekend I started my wonderful downpipe install... It did not go well at all. First every heat shield bolt was totally rusted to the point that none of them would come out. Most shields had to be cut out with tin snips. I finally got to the downpipe and the wonderful 5 nuts. 3 of the studs pulled right out of the turbo in various conditions, the 4th nut got halfway off then decided it was not going any further. After a 2 hour battle it came off with the help of a torch, along with about 1/2 of the threads on the stud. Amazingly the 5th (impossible to get at) nut under the downpipe came out with 1 good crack of the breaker bar. I was begging my car (out loud) to let the nut come off without issues and I will be forever thankfull it did. At this point it was 8:00PM at night and my co-worker picked me up at my shop to go to Michigan for a work project so I had to pull the car outside until the next Saturday.

So I picked got back to the shop the next Saturday to finish the install, that's where things started to look up. I got the old downpipe out after much swearing. Installed new OEM studs and nuts, I fixed the remaining damaged stud that stayed in the turbo by cleaning up the rest of the threads.


I wrapped the new (to me, thnx to Tokay444) downpipe with DEI Titanium heat wrap. I figured this was a good idea since most of my stock heat shields were unusable, the stuff also looks really nice.


Turbo threads needed a bit of work.


Painted up the valve cover and TMIC. All mating surfaces were sanded of any paint prior to installation


Wrapped the stock exhaust manifold as best I could. It is a bitch to wrap because of the complex shape so I could not properly do the exit.


Used DEI gold heat tape on the firewall shield


Taped the ends of the TMIC


New summer rubber showed up today! 245/40-18" Toyo Proxe T1 Sports


Got it all back together about 9:00 last night.


The new Catless downpipe sounds epic. 3" pipe with a single CPE 5" resonator at the end.

It's all up and running now, have my base map from Stratified. Not much happens until around 4000RPM when suddenly all hell breaks loose, but I suppose that's just to keep everything safe until the tune is really dialed in. Should be allot of fun ahead!
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Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4

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 Old 04-07-2015, 02:00 PM   #24
 
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How's the fuel pressure holding up with the internals swap?
There's nothing better than ripping off the rusted stock junk and putting on new parts

PS it's Devon
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 Old 04-07-2015, 05:08 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by CaptainCode View Post
How's the fuel pressure holding up with the internals swap?
There's nothing better than ripping off the rusted stock junk and putting on new parts

PS it's Devon
It's working great

I really appreciate the help!
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 Old 04-09-2015, 04:52 AM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by brandon3212 View Post
It's working great

I really appreciate the help!
np, glad to help!
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 Old 04-22-2015, 06:58 PM   #27
 
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So I'm on the 3rd version of my tune from Stan at Stratified and the runs fantastic. It pulls MUCH harder than before, it idles better.

The downpipe makes the car sound fucking amazing and smell like a dirty old power boat, I love it with all my heart. I don't think I could ever put a muffler on it, although the neighbors might say otherwise.

On the downside, during some 3rd and 4th gear logs my clutch starting slipping pretty bad at the start of the runs. I have since ordered and ACT full face street clutch kit with prolight aluminum flywheel. I really hope the flywheel will let the engine rev a bit faster, in stock form it's very sluggish, especially at the track during high revs.

Me and a friend (ex mechanic) are going to install this ourselves in a week or 2.


A few weeks ago I also picked up a spare K04 turbo from tokay444 for a really nice deal. This will serve as a backup, just in case I melt a turbo mid season or something.



When I bought my 245's I wasn't sure how they might fit so I built a heavy duty fender roller. The tires ended up clearing with no rubbing at all, it was a fun project anyway




I have been wanting to get a licence plate relocation kit but didn't like the options available and how far from the bumper they sit. So I decided to build my own that would sit totally flush and also be adjustable.


After rubber coating. I should be mounting it by the weekend.


I took some pics on Saturday with the newly painted summer wheels with my wonderful 245/40-18" Toyo Proxes T1's




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Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 04-23-2015, 06:26 PM   #28
 
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Picked up my ACT clutch kit today.












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 Old 06-03-2015, 07:35 PM   #29
 
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Howdy Guys, it's been a while

So I got my new ACT clutch and flywheel in and so far I'm loving it. Engagement point has moved closer to stock instead of right off the floor after driving it around 200KM. It's a little tricky to modulate the throttle off the line because of the lighter flywheel, but overall it makes the car so much more fun to drive it's incredible. The throttle is vastly more responsive and it revs much much faster. I would never go back.

Overall it wasnt a terrible install, just ALLOT of stuff to disconnect and take off. The hardest part by far was getting the transmission back on.





I did my first track day on the new tune and was amazed by how much harder the car would pull out of a corner. I still cant believe how much a downpipe, intake and tune have transformed my car, it drives completely different than what I have been used to. The only downside was that I'm getting allot of wheel hop when powering out of the apex. I'm going to try installing solid bushings in my JBR rear motor mount and OEM transmission bracket and see if that helps. I will do a separate thread on the solid bushings when I'm finished. I never had wheel hop before my tune but I suspect the potential was always there, I just didn't have the torque to aggravate it. I really need to eliminate this wheel hop so this will be step 1.




I also threw on my new HAWK DTC 60 race pads and new NAPA blanks and had amazing results. When I first installed these and was breaking them in they would throw sparks and squeal under hard braking. Now that they are broken in they just squeal like mad once they get a bit of heat into them. The nice thing about them is that they work perfectly fine when cold, they feel just like any other set of pads. On the track they are a different animal though, they start out pretty linear and feel much like and EBC yellow but when they get hot they start biting like crazy. These pads have AMAZING initial bite and can achieve ABS lockup with very minimal effort. The only thing I didn't like was that during the ABS pulses the pads would be biting immensely hard and then releasing then biting again. I found this would upset the handling of the car under hard braking, I found that the solution was to use a good bit of trail braking and not hammer the peddle nearly as hard. Doing this I could brake later, enter the corner faster and run an overall smoother more comfortable lap since I wasn't smashing the brakes before the corner entrance.



Track day at the local road course was very fun and very challenging. By the end of last session I was finally getting the power down efficiently.


Smexy set of brand new Gforce R1 slicks


Nothing like chillin up at the lake with friends and family after a fun day at the track
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Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4

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 Old 06-04-2015, 06:51 PM   #30
 
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I loved the DTC60s, but the fact that my summer DD wheels are also my track wheels made dealing with the dust (especially if I didn't get around to swapping pads back right away and it rained) an issue for me... I switched to Carbotech (and stopped swapping rotors when I swap pads - BONUS!) and have been pretty happy with the XP12s on track and 1521s on the street, but I do miss the relative affordability of the Hawks.

I know your car is basically just for the track so I'm sure it won't be a concern of yours.

Good shit!
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 Old 06-15-2015, 06:30 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 View Post
I loved the DTC60s, but the fact that my summer DD wheels are also my track wheels made dealing with the dust (especially if I didn't get around to swapping pads back right away and it rained) an issue for me... I switched to Carbotech (and stopped swapping rotors when I swap pads - BONUS!) and have been pretty happy with the XP12s on track and 1521s on the street, but I do miss the relative affordability of the Hawks.

I know your car is basically just for the track so I'm sure it won't be a concern of yours.

Good shit!
Your 100% on the money about the dust, it's BRUTAL. My wheels will actually dust over just after 1 day of driving to work and back. The dust does not powerwash off, it needs to be scrubbed with a brush and it's so metallic that it will actually rust onto the wheels if left to long.
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Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 06-15-2015, 06:37 PM   #32
 
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As I posted in the suspension and brakes section, here is my solid RMM





So far I'm really liking the RMM, it shifts noticeably smoother than with the 88A bushings. Not much more noticeable noise or vibes either.


On the weekend I lined my engine bay with DEI gold reflective tape. This stuff looks amazing.


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Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

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Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 06-17-2015, 08:07 AM   #33
 
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Nice build so far...i threw a rod in my speed 6 recently and i am thinking of doing a slow build myself.

how come you went with solid rotors versus drilled and slotted? i was always under the impression you got better braking performance with the drilled and slotted versus solid rotors?
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 Old 06-17-2015, 10:35 AM   #34
 
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Because I'm too lazy to type this all out myself:

Rotors: Blank vs Cross Drilled vs Slotted and Warping | Automotive Thinker - Discussing the finer points of automobiles
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 Old 06-17-2015, 10:56 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 View Post
Thanks for the link...interesting ive never come acrss that info sooner in all my self education but it definitely makes sense.
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 Old 06-18-2015, 07:40 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by jthough1 View Post
Nice build so far...i threw a rod in my speed 6 recently and i am thinking of doing a slow build myself.

how come you went with solid rotors versus drilled and slotted? i was always under the impression you got better braking performance with the drilled and slotted versus solid rotors?
I don't use slotted or drilled for a few reasons, most of them are listed is the link posted above. Also the NAPA blanks are only $80 each for the fronts and $40 each for the rears, they are always great quality and I have ran them all last summer (at the track) and all winter with absolutely zero warping or excessive wear.

My Hawk DTC 60 pads turned them blue after last track day
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Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

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Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 07-08-2015, 02:25 PM   #37
 
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Pretty much finished my Stratified custom tune on Shell 91 Octane, decent numbers for the fuel I'm working with. I'm going to do a 94 tune with 1 gallon of in tank meth shortly.



I did another track day last Thursday evening and got it all with my new Gopro.
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Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 10-08-2015, 06:45 PM   #38
 
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So not allot has changed since my last update, got tuned on 94 and made a bit more power and thats about it. Tracked the car for the rest of the summer and it held up great.

After fighting horribly uneven pad wear and rapidly degrading front calipers I decided go get a Wilwood 6 piston BBK with 13" 2 piece rotors. On the upside these are the newest models featuring a reinforced fixed bridge to reduce flex, downside is that pads can no longer be top loaded. At least I'll never have to fuck with slider pins again. The kit should be here mid next week.


Got an intake mani of Tokay444 and decided to try porting it.



Traced out the gasket


After about 2 evenings of grinding this was the result. I'm very happy with how consistent I was able to get the runners, it was actually not a bad job at all. Pretty satisfying work really.



I plan on getting the area around the throttle body flange welded next week so a can remove more material and open it up some more. I may actually cut the whole plenum off the runners and polish up the inside as well.


I still need to find some longer sanding drums so i can polish deep down the runners, that will be next weeks project.
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07 Speed 3

Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 12-16-2015, 10:28 PM   #39
 
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So I painted my car again




Removed some more weight and came up with a few ideas for trunk bracing in the process.


I also installed the most comfortable seat in the world on the passenger side. I know the seat bracket needs additional bracing, I'm not finished it yet.




I have a bunch of aero stuff in the works (diffuser,splitter and air dam), but right now its just a pile of ugly plywood concepts. I'll post some stuff up when I make a bit more progress and actually attach the stuff to the car.
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Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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 Old 03-15-2016, 04:46 PM   #40
 
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Well my slow car will be getting a bit faster with the addition of my new BNR S3, Vibrant Racing FMIC and Polymatrix A racing pads to go with my wilwoods. I will be modifying some Turbo XS intercooler piping that I'm getting from Tokay444 to fit my core. Pretty excited, it will be a fun summer at the track for sure!







A few track pics from a track day that was held on a nice day on February. Never thought that would have been possible.


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Handling: H&R Springs, Koni yellow shocks, JBR .250 Competition RSB, Whiteline poly control arm bushings, Custom 1/2" rod end RSB links, JBR 88D Trilogy, steel RMM bushings, Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (driver), Kirkey race seat (passenger), shift plate, 18X10.5 +15 RPF1, 275/35 18" Nitto NT01

Brakes: Wilwood 6 piston calipers, Cobalt Friction XR1 race pads

Power: Custom 3.5" intake, Synapse Diverter valve, dual 3" Hood Exit, BNR S3, Treadstone 3126 core, 3 port EBCS, 3" custom cold pipe, 2.5" custom underroute hot pipe, Aquamist HSF4
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