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 Old 07-05-2012, 11:46 AM   #1
 
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Default Weston's MS6 Build Thread

Decided to start a build thread for my car so I can keep everything contained in one thread (including my questions). I've been reading this forum and searching, searching, searching for the past few months for helpful information for my car. Already been worth donating too!

Money is tight for me as I'm 19 and in college, so this will be a slower build, but it should still be fun. My goal is to make it faster and more fun, but keep it reliable and clean (no rice/stickers...)

So for reliability mods I have a Sure Torque R6 installed and Sure Juggernaught and Dreadnaught that need to be installed. I'm figuring while I instal the rear diff mounts I might as well put in rear sway bar. Is the Corksport RSB good or is there better? Also should I upgrade the end links or leave stock? Going to also put in an oil catch can and do the egr delete in the future.

Going to get a boost gauge and mount it using the modified vent pod. Is this going to be enough for future mods or am I going to want/need more gauges?

From my reading it seems the best power gains are from full intake + full downpipe + Cobb AP. So that seems to be the route I'm going to try to take. I have a Cobb SRI, but plan on getting the Sure Full3 Aeros (3 in.) once it's available and I have the Cobb AP. Oh almost forgot I am definitely putting in the Autotech HPFP internals soon.

Comments, suggestions welcome. I'm still a newbie but willing to learn and will most likely ask some stupid questions in the process (hopefully search button will help me avoid most of those).

My car as it is now: Pearl White 06 Mazdaspeed 6 (52k miles)



Parts soon to go on...

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 Old 07-05-2012, 12:11 PM   #2
 
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Just ordered JBR's EGR Block off kit! Pleasantly surprised by the free shipping. Thanks! jbarone
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 Old 07-05-2012, 03:29 PM   #3
 
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I have coilovers on mine, If I woulda known how well it handles with it it would of been my 1st mod. != I would go intake ap Fuel pump internals then downpipe imo. Mounts depend on how you beat the car if hard get those first, Just dont launch the car hard till you do. AWR mounts I would stay away from, PSM is off and leaves the motor crooked, Sent them e-mail dont get anything back. if you plan on going BT way down the road save for a Built motor aswell. Stock exhaust (catback) is fine till you go BT it flows really well. How many miles are on the car? Valve cleaning you will prob need.
I Cleaned on ms6 valve that I think had some much gunk on it prob dident open 100%
and Media blast it (Walnut blast). But ya Diff mount is a must at some point. Welcome to MSF and TY for Using the search button! lol
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 Old 07-05-2012, 03:53 PM   #4
 
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Lot of questions there... My ADD started kicking in.

Boost gauge and AP with Boost readout is a little redundant IMO. Don't know what gauges you really need if you can just move between data readouts on the AP unless you just want gauges.

Plan on working with one of the e-tuners on this site after internals are in. OTS will only get you so far.

Get ATR, learn to MAF CAL and confirm WOT targets.

Our cars look like crap @ stock height. Just the truth. I would get some springs. Our options are pretty limited there.
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 Old 07-05-2012, 04:05 PM   #5
 
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You can leave the stock endlinks, replace them when you lower your car, I will be replacing mine when I install coilovers.

I would also install the SPC ball joints and get an alignment.
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 Old 07-06-2012, 03:01 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Matx View Post
I have coilovers on mine, If I woulda known how well it handles with it it would of been my 1st mod. != I would go intake ap Fuel pump internals then downpipe imo. Mounts depend on how you beat the car if hard get those first, Just dont launch the car hard till you do. AWR mounts I would stay away from, PSM is off and leaves the motor crooked, Sent them e-mail dont get anything back. if you plan on going BT way down the road save for a Built motor aswell. Stock exhaust (catback) is fine till you go BT it flows really well. How many miles are on the car? Valve cleaning you will prob need.
I Cleaned on ms6 valve that I think had some much gunk on it prob dident open 100%
and Media blast it (Walnut blast). But ya Diff mount is a must at some point. Welcome to MSF and TY for Using the search button! lol
Definitely see coilovers in my future (most likely H&R). Have the mounts, just need to install them (Sure). I was planning on keeping stock exhaust for a while and just doing full downpipe or downpipe/test pipe as I don't want it annoying loud or a ton of drone. 52k miles on the car (listed in OP). Thanks for the info!

Originally Posted by dale_gribble View Post
Lot of questions there... My ADD started kicking in.

Boost gauge and AP with Boost readout is a little redundant IMO. Don't know what gauges you really need if you can just move between data readouts on the AP unless you just want gauges.

Plan on working with one of the e-tuners on this site after internals are in. OTS will only get you so far.

Get ATR, learn to MAF CAL and confirm WOT targets.

Our cars look like crap @ stock height. Just the truth. I would get some springs. Our options are pretty limited there.
Awesome! I hate the look of a million useless gauges... too cluttered and ricey. If I did have any gauges I would prefer just one boost gauge but then again I forgot about the AP already having it. So hey you just saved me $$$ I can put towards more useful stuff!

Looks like I'm on the right track then! Plan on getting intake, DP, and internals then get a dizzy or hypnotic e-tune.

Springs? Or shouldn't I just go coilovers and get it done with?

Great info!

Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
You can leave the stock endlinks, replace them when you lower your car, I will be replacing mine when I install coilovers.

I would also install the SPC ball joints and get an alignment.
Thanks!
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 Old 07-06-2012, 03:17 PM   #7
 
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I have the whiteline sway bar in mine on the softest setting. It's a huge difference. I can't comment on the corksport bar but I imagine its a good piece as well.

+1 for the fuel pump/AP suggestion. Its good piece of mind if you're looking to avoid the zzb.

I would also recommend doing a short shifter and bushings for general driver feel and enjoyment. Cheap, quick, and noticeable.
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 Old 07-06-2012, 03:36 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by urbansurfer View Post
I have the whiteline sway bar in mine on the softest setting. It's a huge difference. I can't comment on the corksport bar but I imagine its a good piece as well.

+1 for the fuel pump/AP suggestion. Its good piece of mind if you're looking to avoid the zzb.

I would also recommend doing a short shifter and bushings for general driver feel and enjoyment. Cheap, quick, and noticeable.
Thanks! So would you recommend short shifter + bushings over say shortcut + new weight + bushings?
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 Old 07-06-2012, 03:55 PM   #9
 
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I can't comment on that. I have the TWM stage 2 with bushings. For me its been excellent and have never had any issues with it for the past 3 years its been installed. Others have had great success with the JBR shift plate,bushings, and weight.

What it boils down to is whether or not you want the shifter lowered as well or if you just want a reduced shift pattern.

If you go with the TWM stage 2, be sure to buy the replacement boot with it as the stock boot looks like shit with the dropped height.

If you don't care about shift height and are looking to save a buck, go with the JBR shift plate kit
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 Old 07-06-2012, 04:02 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by urbansurfer View Post
I can't comment on that. I have the TWM stage 2 with bushings. For me its been excellent and have never had any issues with it for the past 3 years its been installed. Others have had great success with the JBR shift plate,bushings, and weight.

What it boils down to is whether or not you want the shifter lowered as well or if you just want a reduced shift pattern.

If you go with the TWM stage 2, be sure to buy the replacement boot with it as the stock boot looks like shit with the dropped height.

If you don't care about shift height and are looking to save a buck, go with the JBR shift plate kit
Good to know. I'd like to retain the stock hight so if I went short shifter I'd get a TWM stage 1. Either way bushings sound like a must. Also think a heavier knob would smooth shifting too.
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 Old 08-01-2012, 10:43 PM   #11
 
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Alright another update! Just got back yesterday from three weeks of working at summer camp! Had a chance to get under the car and install the RMM. Wasn't too challenging - did it with just the jack from the trunk of the car. Of course the rear bolt was a pain but it came off eventually. Idle vibration is acceptable and shifting is a lot smoother! Worth the money.

Stock vs Sure Torque R6



Sure Torque R6 installed



Tomorrow I plan on doing the quick clutch adjustment if I can find the how to.
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 Old 08-01-2012, 11:18 PM   #12
 
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Don't ever work under your car using that jack again! Get a real jack and at least 2 jack stands.

Besides putting yourself in danger; seems like you're on the right track and WWP is the best color!
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 Old 08-01-2012, 11:31 PM   #13
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lol I'm in the same boat as you bro. 20 y/o, wanting to Mod, and Money is tight.
lol I installed my SURE RMM also and have my Dreadnaught and Juggernaut sitting in my room waiting to be installed. lol

So in short? I know that feel bro. Good Luck
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/// Torque will set you free. /// My MS6 was not bought. It just showed up in my yard one day beaten and neglected mechanically. I adopted it like a stray animal. Now, I am turning it into a vicious one. ///




Originally Posted by Decepticon View Post
I put it this way, having an ms3 is like having a relationship with a nympho maniac who is wild and crazy, but u know damn well u can't have a long lasting relationship with her...with the ms6, u can make her ur wife.
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 Old 08-01-2012, 11:31 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Speed_j23 View Post
Don't ever work under your car using that jack again! Get a real jack and at least 2 jack stands.

Besides putting yourself in danger; seems like you're on the right track and WWP is the best color!
Oh wow I just realized I only typed part of what I was going to! I actually used two ramps (made specifically for working under the car) and just used that jack to keep the back of the engine lifted when I changed mounts - the motor can't pivot much anyways even if the jack slipped so nothing dangerous.
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 Old 08-05-2012, 06:59 PM   #15
 
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Did the clutch adjustment today! So much better.

So I'm planning on doing the rear sway bar/rear diff mounts soon and was toying on the idea of throwing in some H&R springs while I'm at it. Should I go for it or wait until I can eventually get coilovers?
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 Old 09-24-2012, 06:05 PM   #16
 
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Going to put in the rear diff mounts next week. Following the how to on dropping the subframe. Anything else of importance that I should know?
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 Old 09-24-2012, 08:38 PM   #17
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Link for clutch adjustment? I havent heard of this..

Sent via AWD!
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/// Torque will set you free. /// My MS6 was not bought. It just showed up in my yard one day beaten and neglected mechanically. I adopted it like a stray animal. Now, I am turning it into a vicious one. ///




Originally Posted by Decepticon View Post
I put it this way, having an ms3 is like having a relationship with a nympho maniac who is wild and crazy, but u know damn well u can't have a long lasting relationship with her...with the ms6, u can make her ur wife.
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 Old 09-25-2012, 07:28 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by xI Leveler Ix View Post
Link for clutch adjustment? I havent heard of this..

Sent via AWD!
How To: Clutch Pedal Adjustment
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 Old 10-05-2012, 02:30 PM   #19
 
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Finally got around to installing the Juggernaught and Dreadnaught. Overall seems a lot smoother and solid though possibly a slight bit more vibrations. I took my time (12 hours :O) but it was really straightforward and quite easy. Great mod and now I'm ready for more power!









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 Old 10-05-2012, 11:04 PM   #20
 
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What RSB did you end up choosing?
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 Old 10-05-2012, 11:26 PM   #21
 
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Wow man. Same boat you're in. 20 years old wanting to do a full big build and low on funds. 06 Speed 6 GT for me also. You seem to have more access to ramps, tools, stands, etc than I do. Lucky you or I would have jumped on a few items sooner.
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 Old 10-06-2012, 03:30 AM   #22
 
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Wow.. You didn't need to drop the subframe to install the diff mounts.
I did mine without lowering the subframe..
Good job on the install !!!! Nice car !
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 Old 10-07-2012, 05:22 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Speed_j23 View Post
What RSB did you end up choosing?
Didn't get a new one yet because it would be over $500 with shipping to get the front/rear from corksport. They're located about two hours from my home so I think I'll just drive up there when I'm home on break and pick them both up for $350 then.

Originally Posted by jracer View Post
Wow.. You didn't need to drop the subframe to install the diff mounts.
I did mine without lowering the subframe..
Good job on the install !!!! Nice car !
Yeah I heard it wasn't necessary but that it was easier to swap out the parts with the subframe down. Good learning experience too!
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