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 Old 07-19-2018, 03:31 PM   #121
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Consistent is more important than accurate. I used cheap eBay scales.

Exactly why I am getting a new scale. When I have a single measurement that swings a full gram, itís time for a scale mod lol


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 Old 07-19-2018, 03:32 PM   #122
 
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Oh shit. Ya, new scale time. Lol
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'06 MS6 GT-162k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 07-25-2018, 07:17 PM   #123
 
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Got my head back from the shop today. Not quite ready for a full reveal because it’s going to stay wrapped until it’s ready to go on, but I did snap a teaser shot. The port work is money...
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 Old 07-26-2018, 08:07 PM   #124
 
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A little bit of bad news today. My brand new thrust bearing has a burr right out of the box, so my build weekend looks like it will be put off unless I can get a replacement sent overnight.
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 Old 07-27-2018, 01:47 PM   #125
 
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More bad news. Flywheel ring gear wasnít fully seated. South Bendís awesome customer service is sending a new one no questions asked, though. The flywheel is sexy AF though otherwise and the machine work is excellent.


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 Old 08-02-2018, 09:20 PM   #126
 
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Some updates:

King Thrust Bearing:
The silver speck on the bearing turned out to not be a burr. It was a flake stuck on the coating and it popped off with a good fingernail rub. The surface underneath was perfect.

Flywheel:
Received replacement flywheel and it looked like hot garbage and the ring gear on that one was also not seated properly. Called South Bend and got "JP" on the phone who was less than helpful. After dealing with that guy, my machinist and I basically agreed to just fix the first flywheel they sent and send the hot garbage replacement back. Frankly, I'd rather just NOT deal with that dude again...ever...if I can help it.

Machine Shop Work:
Pistons, Rods, Crankshaft, and Flywheel all balanced.
Crankshaft, sprockets, and pulley keyed.

Other stuff:
Last of engine parts arrives tomorrow. Also getting a replacement 90į silicone coupler for my turbo outlet from cp-e due to my current one failing. Getting OEM injectors cleaned. A few other stuffs for surprises (TBA).

Assembly begins this weekend! I'm stoked!
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 Old 08-04-2018, 10:56 PM   #127
 
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Let the games begin! Measured and weighed everything again, gapped and deburred the rings, assembled the pistons, dropped in the crank and checked final oil clearances, almost done with the bottom end. Also had some fun with paint. Should have an assembled long block tomorrow!




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 Old 08-15-2018, 06:32 PM   #128
 
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Oh yeah... itís been a little while. Sheís built. Just waiting on my exhaust manifold to get it all together and in the car. Also sliced my thumb pretty good when a defective piston ring compressor literally exploded in my hand and had to go to the hospital for stitches. Still making progress though.




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 Old 08-18-2018, 10:00 AM   #129
 
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You literally have bled for your car now. Congrats!
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 Old 08-18-2018, 03:32 PM   #130
 
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Originally Posted by JakeMS3 View Post
You literally have bled for your car now. Congrats!
I lost count of how many times I've bled for this car lol. But most of the other times were just shaved knuckles and minor scrapes. This time it squirted lol.
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 Old 08-21-2018, 03:03 PM   #131
 
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So, I found a cp-e exhaust mani that was otherwise unavailable everywhere and jumped at the opportunity to snatch it up. Sheís sexy...



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 Old 08-26-2018, 11:34 PM   #132
 
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Had a productive weekend. Got old motor stripped and pulled. Swapped parts over to the new engine, installed the South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, mounted up the tranny and got her mounted in the bay.

Noteworthy events:
1. Ball joints were a pain in the ass. I think I'm partially deaf from hammering now.
2. CPE motor mounts were a pain in the ass. Must be good at tetris to line them up and get them to "slide" in place. If you're off by literally 1/8" you are fucked and it will bind up somewhere. The engine is REALLY front heavy when it's empty of fluids, so it wanted to keep rotating forward, and the transmission jack broke. It quickly turned into a two hour ordeal, no joke.
3. Old clutch was starting to disintegrate (I knew I needed a new one) and left chunks in the bell housing. I had to scrub out and clean the bell housing with denatured alcohol. It wasn't too bad, it just took forever.
4. I think I finally tracked down a boost leak I was having for months lol. Turns out the rubber cap on the back of the intake manifold supplied with my Corksport OCC failed and literally blew open under boost (took a pic of it).
5. Injector seals, oddly enough, were PERFECT at 93,000 miles and not leaking at all. The injectors were relatively turded up, though. It was soft brown crud that literally looked like poop, not the typical hard black carbon deposits.
6. Oil smelled STRONGLY of gas. Likely it was flooding the engine with gas for a while to keep up with all the air gushing in from the gaping hole in the back of the intake manifold under vacuum. It only happened recently, so I didn't drive many miles like that, but at least 2 of those miles were drag strip passes for testing. Either way, glad I decided to do this build when I did.
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 Old 08-29-2018, 07:00 PM   #133
 
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Found a coupon code for Glowshift gauges, so I went ahead and ordered the 3 gauge pillar pod assembly with tinted lens 7 color 100 PSI Fuel Pressure, 100 PSI Oil Pressure, and 300F Oil Temp gauges. I also got the oil filter sandwich plate and wiring kit. Grand total $241 and change. Not a bad deal. Also upgrading to 3.5 bar MAP sensor, as I will undoubtedly be well above 30 PSI.
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 Old 08-30-2018, 04:18 AM   #134
 
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That fuel pressure gauge will be useless, no? Unless you plan to just monitor the in tank pump.

Edit: just remembered you are running aux port injection so the low pressure fuel gauge makes sense.

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 Old 09-01-2018, 10:02 PM   #135
 
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Originally Posted by Loophole35 View Post
That fuel pressure gauge will be useless, no? Unless you plan to just monitor the in tank pump.

Edit: just remembered you are running aux port injection so the low pressure fuel gauge makes sense.
Yea, it's for the PI rail. Not having one would be insane. lol
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 Old 09-01-2018, 10:17 PM   #136
 
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Sorry, I didn't take any pictures today...but I can chronicle my build progress. I was waiting for my injectors to come, so we couldn't get the front of the engine together, but we did get the axles in, suspension torqued back down, got the turbo and TIP bolted up, the main harness is all wired up, catch cans are mounted, shift linkages and clutch slave connected, engine mounts torqued down, and some of the hoses rerouted and connected. Only a few things to note today:

1. Stock flange on the cp-e mani is really a giant pain in the ass. The nuts on the turbo studs are literally so tight around the collector that you have to put them all on and get them tightened gradually all the way around. If you try to tighten one nut, the others will not fit on over the studs. Also, on the driver side rear hole, the collector welds actually extend into the area where the nut is supposed to sit, so it was a pain getting it to sit flush. I really wish I went with a v-band turbo from the start.

2. Damond catch can kit didn't come with enough hose, so I need to get more. Also, there are literally zero instructions on the routing option that I purchased and it's not even an option anymore on their site. Probably because it was too complicated and they don't supply enough hose? LOL Luckily that's an easy fix.

3. I think I said it before, but I'll say it again. The 3.5" silicone coupler that Edge gives you with the JBR 3.5" WP Intake for BNR turbos belongs in the closest trash receptacle. It's only 3" long, which is simply just not long enough to connect to both sides without a giant pain in the ass, it also doesn't flex, and the JBR "curved" end is a nightmare. Get a coupler on Amazon that is 4" long. You'll thank me later.

The injectors were sitting at home waiting for me when I got back, so hopefully I will be finishing everything up tomorrow and cranking her over for the first time.
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 Old 09-08-2018, 01:02 AM   #137
 
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Oh yeah... forgot to update this. Made a lot more progress. Found cheap junkyard EV14 injectors from a Nissan Sentra 1.8L just to fill the PI holes while I wait for my real PI injectors to arrive. Had to modify the hot pipe by cutting off the mounting bracket (temporary - will go under routed). Got my gauges all wired up and installed. Everything is pretty much together and ready for the first fire up. Now Iím just waiting on my base map.

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 Old 09-08-2018, 08:43 PM   #138
 
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Since I am still waiting on my tune, I took the opportunity to go over the entire car front to back and make sure everything is tight. Adjusted some suspension components, installed a traction bar, fixed my rear camber arm settings, adjusted ride height, replaced brake fluid, bled the clutch, put coolant in it, checked for leaks. Got the electrical all done and battery hooked up. Turned the key to make sure my gauges work and everything seems to be good. Iím dying to fire this thing up. I have literally checked my email about 700 times a day just to see if the tune arrived. With any luck, itíll show up tomorrow. As of now, this is how she sits until I get the tune. My baby wants to eat!!




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 Old 09-10-2018, 11:12 PM   #139
 
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Well, good news and bad news...

Good news:
I got my tune, loaded it, turned the key, primed the fuel pump, checked for codes, no codes. Did a few cranks to prime the oil pump, oil light went out, pressure looks good. Checked for leaks and only had one small one because I forgot to put the upper blind plug back back into the timing cover like a noob. lol Fixed that and all systems were go for firing it up...

Bad news:
No spark. Checked grounds, swapped in a spare ignition harness to make sure it wasnít an an issue there. Unbolted and rebolted the bracket to the HPFP cam housing. Checked fuses and only saw one blown fuse ó fog lights ó and this fuse was definitely not blown before, so thereís something electrical going on. It just cranks and cranks, but wonít fire. The battery was low, and it did die, so Iím hoping itís just a battery issue. More thorough troubleshooting will be happening tomorrow after we get it fully charged up.






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 Old 09-10-2018, 11:27 PM   #140
 
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 Old 09-11-2018, 09:39 PM   #141
 
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Initial diagnosis was wrong. It’s getting spark. It seems there is an issue somewhere in the fuel system. In tank pump primes and fuel pressure is normal with key on. Cranking it with gas pedal to the floor fuel pressure rises to around 700~800 PSI and holds, even after turning off the key. But as soon as I let off the gas pedal and crank with only clutch pedal down the fuel pressure falls and stays around only 200~250 PSI. It also fired and tried to start with the gas pedal to the floor, when it’s obviously not supposed to.
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 Old 09-11-2018, 10:52 PM   #142
 
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High fuel pressure during flood clear makes sense. High pressure pump is pumping, but injectors aren't injecting.
The pressure dropping when not in flood clear mode is indication that at least one the injectors is firing to relieve that pressure.

With fuel and spark, all you need now is air. Which is typically never the problem.

I know when I got my built engine back in, it took quite a bit of cranking before it would start. And that's after the excessive cranking in flood-clear mode to get my oil pressure up.
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 Old 09-11-2018, 11:02 PM   #143
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
High fuel pressure during flood clear makes sense. High pressure pump is pumping, but injectors aren't injecting.
The pressure dropping when not in flood clear mode is indication that at least one the injectors is firing to relieve that pressure.

With fuel and spark, all you need now is air. Which is typically never the problem.

I know when I got my built engine back in, it took quite a bit of cranking before it would start. And that's after the excessive cranking in flood-clear mode to get my oil pressure up.

Iíve tried cranking it at least 20 full 30 second cranks (until it stops itself) and so far I have gotten a total of 3 random solo ďthunksĒ to indicate even the slightest attempt at combustion. All 3 times those thunks happened I was in clear flood mode. Regular cranking it just spins and spins, but no firing at all. I killed the battery from a low charge yesterday, then drained it to 61% from 100% today after we charged it fully overnight. It just refuses to run.

My tuner seems to think itís electrical. That was my initial thought, too, but Iím at the point now Iím making myself nuts and swapping random parts. I swapped the fuel pump relay and even pulled the intake off and swapped out the fuel pressure sensor today. I basically have two of everything.

These are usually the types of things that come down to something fucking stupid like the paint on the block interfering with a ground. Itís driving me nuts.


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 Old 09-12-2018, 11:51 AM   #144
 
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What happened to your airbag? did you remove it??
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 Old 09-12-2018, 11:55 AM   #145
 
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Originally Posted by Dommo14 View Post
What happened to your airbag? did you remove it??

Are you referring to the side curtain airbag? If so, no. The pillar pod just screws onto the existing A pillar trim. The airbag is in the cloth part over the door, only the very edge of it extends to the pillar pod, but the trim is tethered to the A pillar so it will just pop loose and not blow into your face.
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 Old 09-12-2018, 08:29 PM   #146
 
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I’ve hit the point of frustration, so at this point I call on anyone who might read this and has any foggy idea wtf is going on to chime in.

We tested compression and all cylinders are right around 130, which is normal for my compression gauge. Air is confirmed to not be the issue.

There’s gas on all 4 spark plugs and fuel pressure is OK. Also plenty of gas fumes coming from the tailpipes. Fuel does not seem to be the issue.

Checked for spark by grounding the plugs in 4 different places in the engine bay - directly to the negative terminal, directly to the head, to the coil pack harness ground, and to the PMM ground strap. Spark confirmed everywhere. Spark does not seem to be the issue.

Registering 200~220 RPM, so the crank sensor is functioning normally.

Swapped almost every single sensor and wire in the engine bay. Checked all relays, and the only one that was bad was the DRL/ARS relay, which has a short. Checked all fuses, only blown fuse was the fog light fuse (most likely as a result of the bad DRL/ARS relay).

Checked every ground in the engine bay with a volt meter. All sitting at 12.7-12.8v, all 11.0-11.2v while cranking.

Disconnected new gauges to rule out extra drain from added shit. Turned off all accessories. Made sure doors closed and everything is off.

Still just cranks and won’t start.

If we disconnect the battery for a while and then reconnect it, the first crank WANTS to start and it definitely gives a *thud* like ignition is happening. Usually once, but sometimes back to back twice. But that ONLY happens when we disconnect the battery for a while. If we leave the battery alone and connected, noo matter how long we let it sit, it will just crank and crank with no start.

No codes, either.

Anyone out there have any ideas?


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 Old 09-12-2018, 10:32 PM   #147
 
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No codes or no CEL. Sometimes there are logged codes that don't trigger a CEL right away.

If you have fuel, air, and spark, but no BOOM, I'd venture to say the fuel mixture is way off or the spark timing is way off. But you mention a few hints of ignition only after disconnecting the battery, which in essence resets the ECU. (Codes are wiped, fuel trims are wiped, pretty much anything the ECU learns and stores).

I've never tried, but can you datalog while cranking?
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 Old 09-12-2018, 10:38 PM   #148
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
No codes or no CEL. Sometimes there are logged codes that don't trigger a CEL right away.

If you have fuel, air, and spark, but no BOOM, I'd venture to say the fuel mixture is way off or the spark timing is way off. But you mention a few hints of ignition only after disconnecting the battery, which in essence resets the ECU. (Codes are wiped, fuel trims are wiped, pretty much anything the ECU learns and stores).

I've never tried, but can you datalog while cranking?
Already did. Forgot to upload here. Log 1 is normal log. Log 2 is voltages and fuel info. Keep in mind the battery was already pretty drained from multiple cranking attempts by the second log, but still had adequate voltage for a start.
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File Type: csv datalog2.csv (21.4 KB, 0 views)
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 Old 09-12-2018, 10:43 PM   #149
 
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The only thing bizarre was the AFR being pinned at 14.85. I don't know if that's normal for cranking, but I/M Readiness scan on AP also said O2 Sensor NOT READY. O2 sensor, even if bad, wouldn't prevent a start, though. I get a blinking check engine light, but no code.
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 Old 09-12-2018, 11:14 PM   #150
 
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The primary O2 for sure won't work until it heats up.
Secondary O2, I'm not sure.

Because the primary O2 isn't functional during cranking and shortly after starting your AFRs won't be right and I believe STFTs will be 0.
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 Old 09-12-2018, 11:51 PM   #151
 
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Well, just heard back from tuner. Seems my gut was right two days ago. He checked the cranking logs and he said the fuel pressure is not enough to start while cranking. So, it's definitely fuel pressure related. Luckily I have two fuel pumps and two spill valves. I know it's not the pressure sensor because I already swapped that.
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 Old 09-13-2018, 07:51 AM   #152
 
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i do remember it got ime to prime the hpfp when i did mine. I have a 80A garage fast charger and i remember i had to use it...
You probably already checked the injector ground on the tap above the EGR and made sure you connected the resistor module ?

If logs report pressure issues, check it this direction but if you still have air there, it may not be broken but just not primed completly...
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 Old 09-13-2018, 08:57 AM   #153
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
i do remember it got ime to prime the hpfp when i did mine. I have a 80A garage fast charger and i remember i had to use it...
You probably already checked the injector ground on the tap above the EGR and made sure you connected the resistor module ?

If logs report pressure issues, check it this direction but if you still have air there, it may not be broken but just not primed completly...

Yes, all grounds and the resistor ballast on the frame rail are connected. Now whether the ballast is working properly is another matter. Iíd bet itís the pressure relief valve. I thought I may have heard it spilling while cranking, but itís hard to tell at such low pressures. It doesnít make the loud shrieking sound as it would if the car was running. Then again, it could just be my mind hearing shit while trying to figure out whatís wrong with it. lol Either way, weíll find out tonight.


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 Old 09-13-2018, 09:13 PM   #154
 
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Here's what we HAVE done so far:

CHECKED compression: 130~ across the board (normal for new engine on my gauge)
CHECKED spark: Confirmed spark by grounding now FIVE different ways, including inside the spark plug well itself.
CHECKED fuel: Confirmed fuel is spraying via wet plugs and gas smell in cylinders/tailpipe

In Tank Fuel Pump primes, fuel pressure between 51 and 77 PSI with key on. Normal.
Only builds to 200~350 PSI while cranking, builds to 750~PSI in Clear Flood mode.

After logging cranks, my tuner says it's fuel pressure related, and pointed to the HPFP, Spill Valve, or something on the fuel rail. He says it must be building to well over 400 PSI while cranking in order to start, but it won't.

Checked all ground points (including the coil pack ground), all grounds 12.8v sitting, 11.0-11.2v while cranking.
INSPECTED my upgraded HPFP. Completely disassembled it and reassembled it. No problems detected.
INSPECTED my HPFP Cam Follower Bucket. No problems detected, lubed well and moving freely. Cam surface unblemished.
REPLACED HPFP entirely with a spare stock HPFP. Fuel pressure actually got WORSE, 100-200 PSI while cranking.
REPLACED Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
REPLACED Fuel Pressure Relief Valve
REPLACED Fuel Pump Resistor Ballast
REPLACED Fuel Pump Fuse
REPLACED Fuel Pump Relay
REPLACED Cam Sensor
REPLACED Crank Sensor
REPLACED Ignition Harness

Still, no engine trouble codes.
Still no running engine.

Just an occasional pop, but no start.

Frustration is not even the word anymore. I'm legit losing my composure.
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 Old 09-14-2018, 09:03 PM   #155
 
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The mystery has been solved, and Iím just ecstatic that It was nothing that I did wrong. In fact, it turned out to be the only part Of the entire engine that I did not do personally. The fucking idiot that keyed my crank pulley keyed it upside down. So, the entire engine is in time properly because thankfully I did not do the cam timing with the crank pulley on. But the crank pulley is off by 180į And I never even noticed because I just put it on according to the keyway.



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 Old 09-14-2018, 11:42 PM   #156
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
No codes or no CEL. Sometimes there are logged codes that don't trigger a CEL right away.

If you have fuel, air, and spark, but no BOOM, I'd venture to say the fuel mixture is way off or the spark timing is way off. But you mention a few hints of ignition only after disconnecting the battery, which in essence resets the ECU. (Codes are wiped, fuel trims are wiped, pretty much anything the ECU learns and stores).

I've never tried, but can you datalog while cranking?
Glad you found the problem.

You didn't verify the CAS was on the 20th tooth?
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History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
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 Old 09-14-2018, 11:44 PM   #157
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Glad you found the problem.



You didn't verify the CAS was on the 20th tooth?

It was, if you put the bolt in the hole as the manual tells you to lol


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 Old 09-14-2018, 11:45 PM   #158
 
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Oh psh. You count the teeth with the crank against the SST pin.

Live and learn.
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'06 MS6 GT-162k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-14-2018, 11:48 PM   #159
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Oh psh. You count the teeth with the crank against the SST pin.

I timed the engine on the stand and removed the TDC pin. I didnít even put the crank sensor on until I got it in the car, and I used the bolt in the hole. Fuck me for assuming the machine shop would actually key the crank pulley correctly.


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 Old 09-14-2018, 11:51 PM   #160
 
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SP63 did mine and the key was off by a few degrees. Sliding the CAS fully seated in the slots to the one direction put me within about a degree or so from ideal. Not pleased at all, but it runs fine.

For you, I believe the trigger wheel can be removed and reinstalled so the 20th aligns with the sensor pickup.
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'06 MS6 GT-162k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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