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 Old 09-14-2018, 11:55 PM   #161
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
SP63 did mine and the key was off by a few degrees. Sliding the CAS fully seated in the slots to the one direction put me within about a degree or so from ideal. Not pleased at all, but it runs fine.

My shop did mine exactly 180į off. Itís perfect with a mirror. I know how it happened. The boss man was cutting the keyway on the crank itself, which was done freaking perfectly, and he tasked one of his apprentices with the crank pulley lol


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 Old 09-17-2018, 06:26 AM   #162
 
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Glad you found it!

Mine was slightly off too, i rimmed the key way a bit and put a piece of metal filler gage on the other side to get at the right position. Put locktite + oem friction washer to freeze it in place.
I told to myself, i will get another one keyed some day....
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 Old 09-17-2018, 07:55 AM   #163
 
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Did you notch your friction washers for the key?
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 Old 09-17-2018, 08:16 AM   #164
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Did you notch your friction washers for the key?

No friction washers needed for keyed crank.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 08:18 AM   #165
 
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@Jeff23spl; used friction washers on his keyed crank. I was just asking if he notched the washers to clear the key.
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-17-2018, 08:22 AM   #166
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
@Jeff23spl; used friction washers on his keyed crank. I was just asking if he notched the washers to clear the key.

I was originally going to use them just for added insurance, but the shop that attempted to key my sprockets cracked them trying to broach them and they destroyed the washers in the process. They just bent. After asking around, the general consensus is they are unnecessary, so I skipped them.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 09:01 AM   #167
 
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i notched them myself. It is a bit far in my head (january 2016) but i think i used a round punch/die on a wood bloc. It was for added insurrances especially with the oversized key way...
And it would also make sure the pulley remain aligned with the other accessory driven by the belt...Maybe it won't matter much but if that spacing was there, i prefer to keep it.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 09:04 AM   #168
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
i notched them myself. It is a bit far in my head (january 2016) but i think i used a round punch/die on a wood bloc. It was for added insurrances especially with the oversized key way...
And it would also make sure the pulley remain aligned with the other accessory driven by the belt...Maybe it won't matter much but if that spacing was there, i prefer to keep it.

The spacing was my main concern, honestly. I wasnít sure the sensor would line up with the teeth properly. But those washers are so thin it didnít make the slightest bit of a difference. Maybe like a few hundredths of an inch.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 09:56 AM   #169
 
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I left my crank washers off as well. But I did use my cam washers when I pinned them. I drilled the pin holes with the friction washers in place, then tapped the pins in.
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Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
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2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:06 AM   #170
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
I left my crank washers off as well. But I did use my cam washers when I pinned them. I drilled the pin holes with the friction washers in place, then tapped the pins in.

I didnít pin mine. Those gears spin pretty easily because theyíre bigger. Itís the little gears on the crank that see the majority of the cranking force. It would take a ridiculous amount of torque to break that sucker free, considering it spins into the tightness of the bolt.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 12:47 PM   #171
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
I didn’t pin mine. Those gears spin pretty easily because they’re bigger. It’s the little gears on the crank that see the majority of the cranking force. It would take a ridiculous amount of torque to break that sucker free, considering it spins into the tightness of the bolt.
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I agree. I assume a cam gear see just half the load of what the crank gear see....

IT also let options to change the timing angle like an ajustable pulley if needed. But i didn't see much playing with it....Maybe the vvt alone is good at that.

I took care of drying them with brake cleaner to make sure there is no oil in between. Something that is a bit harder with the crank. You need to oil the seal then dry out etc...

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
I left my crank washers off as well. But I did use my cam washers when I pinned them. I drilled the pin holes with the friction washers in place, then tapped the pins in.
Was it hard to drill ? were you on a press drill or with an hand drill ?
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1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
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1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
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...Because French Canadian...

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 Old 09-17-2018, 01:53 PM   #172
 
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Hand drill with a high precision drill bit spec'd for the pins I was using for just the right amount of interference fit.

FYI, they have to be drilled with the timing tools in place and chain tensioner active.
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-17-2018, 01:59 PM   #173
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
I agree. I assume a cam gear see just half the load of what the crank gear see....

IT also let options to change the timing angle like an ajustable pulley if needed. But i didn't see much playing with it....Maybe the vvt alone is good at that.

I took care of drying them with brake cleaner to make sure there is no oil in between. Something that is a bit harder with the crank. You need to oil the seal then dry out etc...





Was it hard to drill ? were you on a press drill or with an hand drill ?

The crank spin clockwise, causing an opposite force of the crank pulley counterclockwise. This causes the crank bolt to naturally want to spin loose. Thatís why itís a stretch bolt with a big ass washer. The key absorbs that force.

The camshaft gears, however, are spun by the chain, so the counterforce of the camshafts will actually TIGHTEN the bolts. Thatís why itís not necessary.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:25 PM   #174
 
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Got the new crank pulley with the CORRECT key way cut, perfectly lined up with the 20th tooth.

Also figured it was probably time to change the cabin air filters (lol)...

Now for the moment youíve all been waiting for...

SHEíS ALIVE!!!

https://youtu.be/Jds9bO1f_cI

She was VERY grumpy on the first start and made some not so pleasant sounds and threw like 10 codes immediately. She also blew all sorts of black shit out the exhaust. The new valvetrain made some chatter and there were some clicks I was concerned about, so we killed it. Checked a few things over, realized the BPV hose was loose, tightened it back up, cleared codes and reset the ECU. Second time she started up and no codes.

Brought her up to temp, topped off the coolant, drained the break in oil, and put normal oil in, which she IMMEDIATELY liked a lot better. She quieted right down and tamed up. No codes, no leaks, everything works except for some reason I blow fog light fuses as soon as I put them in. Need to sort that out.

Overall first impression of things, the vibes are freaking nasty from the full stiff mounts. Also, the clutch pedal weighs like 100 lbs and you have to literally mash it all the way to the floor just to get it to release and that sucker grabs IMMEDIATELY as soon as you start letting it an inch off the floor. Complete polar opposite of my high stock clutch release point. Thatís gonna take some getting used to. Maiden voyage down the block was a success and she drives in every gear.

More to come!


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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:38 PM   #175
 
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: beerchug:
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-18-2018, 06:25 AM   #176
 
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nice!

The mounting oil and stuff remaining make it smoke and run rough a bit for few seconds.

Which one of the south bench kit are you running ? I felt the same after installing a ceramic act. I tough my oem wasn't slipping but....it is a whole world different especialy with sticky tires.
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 Old 09-18-2018, 08:56 AM   #177
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
nice!



The mounting oil and stuff remaining make it smoke and run rough a bit for few seconds.



Which one of the south bench kit are you running ? I felt the same after installing a ceramic act. I tough my oem wasn't slipping but....it is a whole world different especialy with sticky tires.

South Bend Stage 3 Endurance. Itís a Kevlar disc. The pressure plate springs are very thick, so they require a good bit of force to compress. It almost seems like the stock shift fork could bend itís so stiff, but I know that little sucker is strong. I can see why people snap clutch pedals.


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 Old 09-18-2018, 09:00 AM   #178
 
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The standard ACT HD PP feels "normal".
Not feather light like stock.
And certainly not the way you're describing the SB.

My ACT does feel much grippier than stock. But it should mellow out when power level increases.
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
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 Old 09-18-2018, 12:57 PM   #179
 
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I get used to the ACT but i test drove a friend speed3 and i got that mine was harder. I felt the oem one is like if the axles would be in rubber and twisting because the feel of the DM fw and disk....

That stage 3 seem to have similar torque specs as my act. But i think i would preffer that kevlar disk....The act 6 pucks is a bit rough limiting the friction point. Especially when hot...

I will re-use mine but i think about using an hybrid disk on the 6. I know a shop that rebuild clutch to customer taste...It held 26psi on a fwd...The 6 is heavier and awd....not sure yet...

I blew the slave cylinder in the first week with it...shifting no clutch for 20km in traffic with a freshly rebuilt trans wasn't a win...
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 Old 09-18-2018, 07:46 PM   #180
 
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The South Bend clutch is already breaking in after only like 20 Miles. Itís WAY easier to push the pedal in, but itís still an extremely low release point. I guess they are just super stiff when they are new. Figured Iíd add that bit. My computer is going through a moment, but I plan on uploading some logs of her maiden voyage once I can get this stupid machine working right. Got about 20 Miles on her now and sheís running great!


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 Old 09-18-2018, 10:30 PM   #181
 
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Here's the log of the maiden voyage, if anyone cares to read it. It's a pretty big log, and I haven't even looked at all of it, but fuel trims are excellent and everything else looks pretty good.
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 Old 10-02-2018, 10:57 PM   #182
 
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Well, she survived the trip to Indy for Epic Nator Central Meet. We dissected the oil filter and changed the oil, minimal flake. Decided to send it for a day of autocross with the boys and girls of the Mazda community. She performed a whole lot better than I did (lol) and had power all the way to the rev limiter. Only issue I had was she popped out of second gear twice on a corner. The return trip home she felt great until she blew a hose clean off the intercooler, but easy fix. Sheís still ticking away, but that could actually be a tiny exhaust leak, as I was eating exhaust fumes on the whole ride home, so Iíll check on that this weekend. I also thoroughly destroyed what was left of the ball joint in the drivers side LCA. But man this girl has some power and sheís not even tuned yet. I canít wait to see what sheíll put out once I get the aux fuel systems hooked up and get dyno tuned!


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 Old 10-07-2018, 03:24 PM   #183
 
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Whelp, I figured out ONE of my problems... lol
As for the ticking, it's either an exhaust valve or a tiny manifold leak. I didn't really have time this weekend to fully diagnose it, but it's very possibly related to the broken plug, since the noise seems to be coming from the exhaust side of cylinder 2 and that's where the broken plug was.
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 Old 10-07-2018, 03:25 PM   #184
 
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Oh, and I also changed my oil and made the switch to 5w40 full synthetic. No flake in the oil and everything looks great.
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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:17 PM   #185
 
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Making so much power, you blew the plug apart.
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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:21 PM   #186
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Making so much power, you blew the plug apart.

I found a piece of ceramic in the oil, so it broke from the tip and cracked all the way down. Iím just praying that chunk of ceramic isnít why itís ticking.


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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:24 PM   #187
 
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Strange that a piece of ceramic navigated past several 0.020" gaps in your rings to make it to the oil pan...
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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:28 PM   #188
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Strange that a piece of ceramic navigated past several 0.020" gaps in your rings to make it to the oil pan...

I dunno how it got there, but it was definitely in the oil pan. It wasnít a big chunk, though.


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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:30 PM   #189
 
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You might want to scope that cylinder at least.
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:30 PM   #190
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
You might want to scope that cylinder at least.

I thought it was a pebble at first, and was like ďhow the f*** did that get in there?Ē but then I pulled the plugs and realized it was ceramic.


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 Old 10-07-2018, 05:34 PM   #191
 
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Throw it at your window to be certain. A pebble will bounce right off.





Kidding
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CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
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2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 10-09-2018, 10:03 AM   #192
 
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humm how is the bottom of the plug ? The only time i got the head of a plug broken it was because i made a bad move while torquing or removing it with an extension bar...Hopefully i kept all the parts from falling into the combustion chamber.

I also had a bad knock event with my oem 3 engine (the reason of my rebuild) that break 3 plugs in few seconds+1 ringland. The bottom ceramic broke and one of them drop on the piston. (I will check if i still have them and take a picture, i keep broken parts to remember me not to do it again....
It is hard to look inside the cylinder with a camera, i had to took the VC off to be able to move mine around. Unfortunately, ceramic is heat resistant and won't melt....On mine, I could see something held on the side of the piston and some marks on piston top but i never found anything in the oil. I still boosted that engine do 25 psi for a year with new plugs and...lower compression...

I don't know either how any parts of the plug can pass the rings to go into the oil pan.
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 Old 10-09-2018, 10:53 AM   #193
 
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The only thing I can think of is when I pulled the plugs I checked compression before I changed the oil. Itís possible that I blew the chunk out of the cylinder and into the valve cover while the plug was out and it just navigated down through the oil galleries into the oil pan.


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 Old 10-09-2018, 12:19 PM   #194
 
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in this case, the chunk would have passed direct to the pan thru a larger hole and won't damages to the cylinder wall...I wish you it was the case.

Was the VC removed or just by the oil cap hole ?
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1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...
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 Old 10-09-2018, 05:12 PM   #195
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
in this case, the chunk would have passed direct to the pan thru a larger hole and won't damages to the cylinder wall...I wish you it was the case.

Was the VC removed or just by the oil cap hole ?

Valve cover hasnít been off since priming. Iím not too concerned at the moment since I did a pretty monstrous rip last night just to test the new spark plugs and it definitely pulled harder than itís ever pulled before. I broke traction in 2nd, chirped 3rd. Zero hesitation and MUCH better AFR. So, Iím gonna go out on a limb and say everything is fine now lol


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 Old 10-10-2018, 07:57 AM   #196
 
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If it was missfiring sometimes in 1 cylinder i believe you that it would pull hard now...At worst, you can make some good power with a scuffed cylinder...i tested it lol
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...
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 Old 10-21-2018, 06:45 PM   #197
 
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Well, sheís still ticking away, but it hasnít gotten any louder. I think itís just a loud valve train component. She also survived a pull over 7,000 RPM at 20PSI and the noise actually got quieter momentarily before returning. I assume thatís just from the oil being tossed all over the place. Man this thing rips, and the turbo spools SUPER quick. I am full boost by 3,000 RPM. The vibes have also substantially subsided, but they are still ridiculous. I still have to ride with the windows cracked and my dash, pillar trims, sun visors, and sunglasses holder still buzz at varying RPMs. Rear view mirror useless and my damn wiper blades rattle horribly. Oh, well.


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 Old 10-21-2018, 09:54 PM   #198
 
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Let 'er rip tater chip!!
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
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 Old 10-22-2018, 07:12 AM   #199
 
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That gearbox solid mount! I put it in and put oem back after a week...It was like a huge dildo...

For the ticking, have you removed the foam around the HPFP ?
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2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...
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 Old 10-22-2018, 07:53 AM   #200
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
That gearbox solid mount! I put it in and put oem back after a week...It was like a huge dildo...

For the ticking, have you removed the foam around the HPFP ?

Foam?


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