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 Old 03-25-2019, 09:54 AM   #1
 
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Default Went zoom-zoom-boom. Rebuild time!

Well the car is completely in pieces at the moment but getting out back together as we speak!

To start I have a 2012 "tech" speed and i bought it used back in February and started autoxing the car not long after that. I did the normal things when I bought it, fluid changes all around, nice detail, etc. I knew it needed brakes so I bought it so I bought an EBC setup for a couple hundred bucks. Yellow stuff pads and plaint rotors all around. Love these things but brake dust is a pain. After that she was ready to send it. After about 5-6 events all of a sudden she blew. Completely out of know where. I put her on a trailer and headed home to check the damage.

DAY 1!!!

We knew right away it was bottom end so I broke out the check book and started pulling her out. We decided it was best to pull the motor from the front of the car because we didn't have access to a lift but we have a come along system in our garage so we utilized that. We only took off necessary parts to get it out of the car so we had room to work. Transmission came out with the motor along with the axles. The down pipe was still attached as well. We balanced the motor with our come along and a jack to weave the wiring harness around the motor and keep everything in place. I've personally heard that the power steering would need to be removed in order to take the motor out but we were able to get around it no problem with coming from the front of the car. The only down side is the the AC lines had to be disconnected in order to remove the front clip so we will have to get that all setup again once shes back together. After about 6 hours we got it out and we were exhausted and needed beer.

DAY 2-whatever were at now!!!

Shes out of the car and the motor is surprisingly really clean. No leaks no nothing. We started by taking off the transmission. Went smoothly as expected. Noticed the throw out bearing was completely shot so its another part to add to the list. Tore down as much as possible and we found the evilness we call a rod bearing. Cylinder 3 was shot and number 4 wasn't far from it. Found the crank and a rod had some damage so we sent it and the block to get checked out for issues etc. Several days later we finally have some news. Block is perfectly fine. The machinist ran a stone thru it to give it a good clean and it was ready to rock and roll. Crank on the other hand needed some work but its all fine a dandy now and ready to be inserted into the block of awesomeness. Since the machinist is a long time friend of ours he did the work for free and even got us the right set of rod bearings, rods, and pistons for our rebuild. Awesome guy right! We bought him some lunch and he was happy lol.

Day something idk

We ordered the stage 3 rebuild kit off Edge Auto Sports for the speed along with a few other things so we can start the rebuild. We thought it would be a good idea to replace the vvt, oil pump, clutch, and flywheel also while everything is apart so we don't have to worry about anything for a LONG time. Thinking about a new turbo as well but were unsure at the moment. Crank is back in and that is where we currently are. Gonna keep this post updated as I get more stuff done along with the pictures I've taken.
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 Old 03-25-2019, 02:56 PM   #2
 
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That sucks man but sounds like you dodged a bigger bullet by not venting the block.

good luck with the build.
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91k miles and counting
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 Old 03-26-2019, 08:25 AM   #3
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You are missing an "h" in were.
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 Old 04-15-2019, 02:00 PM   #4
 
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Default Quick Update!

Hello all. Just have a few things to tell yall

Motor is almost complete again. We have finished assembling most of the motor with exception of the turbo and egr valve. We are on the fence of replacing the turbo with an OE Aftermarket turbo from Edge Auto Sports due to the age and shaft play on the original KO4. We are trying to stay in budget so big turbo is out of the question. We have had thoughts on a used low miles KO4 but we thing the Edge Autosports OE turbo will do the job for a great price in comparison to a used OEM. We also decided to go with a EGR Valve Delete Kit from Damond. Seemed like a good idea to go ahead and do it while the car was out. We decided against a new clutch and flywheel because we never had any issues with it before and it still appears to be in great shape. After we install the turbo we will be starting to attach the trans back onto the car and hopefully by this saturday 4/20/19 we will be setting it back in the car. Hopefully things will go smoothly! Before we started this rebuild we found a master manual for the 2012 Mazda/Mazdaspeed3 online that was like 10,000 pages and apparently its supposed to be a manual the dealership uses idk!?!?!? It has been very helpful for torque specifications and install tips. I will post pictures soon and keep everyone updated. If anyone has suggestions on the reinstall that would be great as well!
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 Old 04-15-2019, 07:56 PM   #5
 
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I like Edge Autosports and have bought from them.

But the K04 is known to have weak seals when used with the crappy PCV system on our cars and this leads to the eventual “smoking turbo” syndrome we all know well. If you go with higher flowing exhaust, such as a bigger 3” downpipe, race pipe and exhaust, the stress on the stock seals increases.

There is an elegant solution for those who do not want to go big turbo and want identical power and flow as the stock turbo.

It is the BNR stage 1, or simply BNR S1. It is completely compatible with stock ECU or other tunes and modifications our engines using the K04.

It uses a stock K04 snail but has a Garrett GT28 center housing, turbine and compressor wheel. This has far more robust center shaft, bearings and seal and eliminates the seal failure. It is true drop in plug and play.

I believe you will find it a bit more than the aftermarket K04 but comparably priced to Edge’s OEM turbo, actually a but less. It solved my problems after two OEM smoking turbos.

I hate to see you do all that work just to end up with another smoking K04.

Edge sells them for $950 shipped, or you can get the BNR S1 directly from BNR Supercars for the same price. Mine was purchased direct from BNR.

https://edgeautosport.com/bnr-s1-tur...d-6-2006-2007/
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Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10 years of ownership)
BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.

Last edited by MSMS3; 04-16-2019 at 08:52 PM.
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 Old 04-16-2019, 01:10 PM   #6
 
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Agreed. BNR S1. Since you regularly autox, sticking with a small stock-equivalent turbo is your best choice.
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 Old 04-26-2019, 12:08 PM   #7
 
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UPDATE!

The car is running!!!

We ending up getting the BNR-S1 btw.

When we got everything hooked up in the car we then decided to it. With fingers crossed it sounded off and was running a bit rough. We cut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes before starting it again. The second startup sounded a LOT better and smoother. After some research on here we assumed all our sensors etc were just learning its set points again. We then let it idle for about 20 minutes and changed the oil to get all that assembly lube thru and out of the system. We then did a check over the whole car for leaks etc and everything looked nice and clean. I was beyond excited to drive the car so we then put the wheels back on and did a very easy road test not getting into the boost hard. Car sounded great, clutch felt great, trans felt good, and no more knocking! We drove it for about 15-20 miles and came back to do another oil change so everything could break in. Now she sits in the garage waiting for its new tires to show up before I take her out again.

We noticed that we had 1 CEL for the EGR Valve since we installed a delete kit from Damond. My main question now is how do we get it to pass inspection with it reading the code? Im not trying to buy an accessport until I can get some more money together since I've seen that you can do something in the accessport to erase it. Is there a plug we could make to jump some pins on the connector to give it a "false" pass? Were getting a 15 day tag on it to give us some time so we can get this code erased and inspected. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for the future feedback!
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 Old 04-27-2019, 04:29 AM   #8
 
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Just put the EGR back on to pass the test.
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'06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
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2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 04-29-2019, 09:45 AM   #9
 
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Thats the plan as of now to get it passed. Other than that shes been running great. Not hitting full boost though. Probably a loose tube somewhere. Loving the speed life again!
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 Old 04-29-2019, 10:24 AM   #10
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You should just plug the EGR system back in, as you cannot use the AP to "delete" codes. You can use the AP to prevent codes from displaying in the instrument cluster, but they will always show as "not ready" to any scanner that a tester will use.
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 Old 04-29-2019, 10:37 AM   #11
 
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Gotcha. Can i just plug the EGR back in with just the plug or would I have to completely put it back on?
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 Old 04-29-2019, 11:25 AM   #12
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If you don't want to throw a code, you're going to need an EGR system that is fully functional. That means, you need to reinstall everything in the EGR system.
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 Old 04-29-2019, 01:49 PM   #13
 
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Thanks man. Much appreciated! I'm just gonna throw it back on for the inspection then take her back off after she passes.
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 Old 04-29-2019, 02:07 PM   #14
 
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i was running the EGR electrically connected with the small pipe caped and the obd was returning not complete...
That worked on my 1993 obd1 but not anymore
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