2010 MS3 Tuning start
 

So, I hope this is the right part of the forum. I've been reading a lot, and I'm considering dropping some coin on my first round of mods.

Bought the car Friday with 11k miles. I love it, but I have a few complaints. Wish it had a little more power. Wish it had a better sound. Wish it had less torque steer. Wish the engine didn't hit the firewall when I shift into second. Wish the shifts into 2nd, 4th, and 5th were smoother. They're a bit clunky for my taste, like the linkage just isn't quite right. 3rd is like butter, except when decelerating, when 3rd is like 2nd. Just bad.

Plus, I just like playing with things and I want to toy with everything.

So here's what I'm thinking.

rear motor mount (RMM) chromoly JBR (dogbone?) - $85
stage 2 short shift plate/knob/bushings JBR - $165
????EGR block-off JBR - $20????
HPFP - integrated engineering KMD internals - $330
TIP/SRI from CorkSport - $250
Access Port - $595

If you're good at math, you'll find that's almost $1500. That's kind of a lot of money. I plan on keeping the car quite a while. I just don't know if my car will be $1500 better afterwards.

Any of this you wouldn't get? Should I stage it so I don't feel so bad and my g/f doesn't guilt trip me for not buying a new $150 comforter? I've got the money, it's just whether I want to spend it.

I've got question marks around the EGR block-off, because I haven't found much either way about it. The only negatives seem to be it throws codes occasionally, the positives are it (may?) keep your intake cleaner.

Decisions, decisions.

Thanks in advance.

if your girlfriend guilt trips you back hand her in the fucking front of the head, but yeah its worth it, it makes it a completely different car, i wouldnt go with the dogbone though, get the other one, its less harsh for daily driving, also search around on here to find that stuff cheaper in the forsale sections, all of those are for sale most of the time, but i'd say your heading in the right direction with those mods and manufacturers, JBR makes some great shit, corksport does as well, so you cant go wrong, good luck, keep her in the kitchen with samich materials

The 80 says it isn't made for launching or hard shifting. I definitely like launching, and I probably shift hard (whatever that means).

I assume it's good enough for occasional launches and hard shifts? It's not like I'll be at the drag strip weekly or anything.

So I decided to stage it. Just ordered the JBR dogbone RMM (read it's not that bad vibe wise) and the short shift kit (minus the shift knob, since I think it's ugly). $180 total, and will hopefully improve most of what I want.

Won't have any power, but I'll have everything else I want. I'll work on the rest later.

More power = AP + internals.

yeah 1500 might be alot but thats all baseline items you need if you really want to start modding/tuning. the HPFP internals are necessary because the stock fuel pump is so weak. The Cobb AP is required so you dont blow up your engine and you can monitor whats goin on with your car.

Once you get passed that, there are so many things you can do. The MS3, as compared to other cars, its rather cheap. My buddy told me how much it was to mod his old 350z and now his 370z and I almost cringed.

yey someone who reads and searches!

Ordered a HiddenHitch just now. Supposedly doesn't fit, but I found a thread with installs that said it did. I suppose that's considered a mod?

Gonna wait on the power stuff, for at least a little while. See how it drives.

cash for clunkers

I see you've been going around posting this lately. I assume you don't like my car? Not that I really care. Just not sure what you mean by this.

ugh.... he's just like... trolling...
http://unitedalone.com/aq/ugh.jpg

That thread I linked in your other thread, Abilors Noob Tuning guide. I really recommend you read that while your waiting. thats gonna tell you ALOT about the AP and tuning and mods man. You and i have had our cars about the same amount of time and that thing is like a fucking bible for me. :privateeye:

Yeah, I read some of it yesterday, through about page 15 or something. Very informative.

The JBR knob might not be the best looking, but definitely worth it. In my opinion makes the shifts a lot easier especially with the ssp and solid bushings

Been reading the tuning guide some more. Only thing that doesn't sound fun, is doing the WOT runs. I know that sounds silly, but I REALLY don't want a speeding or agressive driving or something ticket. I don't have a problem flooring it sometimes, but all the way up to 80 worries me, since that's 15 over around here on the highways, and if there's little enough traffic that I can actually start at 30 mph, then I'm much more likely to get nailed than in traffic where I don't have a problem driving 80.

Get on the highway with low traffic, on the entrance. Go on 3rd around 25-30mph and just floor it. You should go all the way up until about 80mph and still be close to the speeding limit.

Or, go down a street with no traffic, do a reconnaissance drive to check for cops, turn around and do a pull.

google it

Gee, I had no idea. Thanks for helping me out. /sarcasm

I'm well aware of the cash for clunkers program. Just don't see how it pertains to a 2010 MS3 with 11k miles. But thanks anyway. I assume it's just his attempt at being witty.

So I was wanting an engine temp gauge, and I wanted a fuel PSI that I could view easily. I just ordered the Ultragauge (the new one, EM). I'll use that on my dash. Eventually I'll get the AP, but still use the UG, because I think Engine temp is an important gauge, especially so that I know when I'm up to temp so I can go WOT.

I can also get some power stuff like this, without the AP yet, and not worry about fuel PSI since I can see all that stuff, as well as temps and everything else, just not log it. If the PSI drops, then I take the thing off and get some internals.

gen pu = clunker
clunker = cash
cash = profit

Sounds like he's just upset he can't afford a newer car. No worries, I'm used to trolls.

The only deal breaker for me is the look of the knob. I'm a show and go kinda guy. My Cobra used to have a Gripper knob, had the best feel and custom look: 1990-2004 Mustang GRIPPER SHIFT KNOB

And there was this one, but I didn't like the "slippy" material: 1990-2004 Mustang COMPOSITE RACE KNOB


The stock knob is just so pretty with the leather and top design. I'm sure there's a way to make a REALLY nice heavy knob for this car, but it would be costly. I'd be willing to pay a premium to get the knob I want. Right now all the aftermarket knobs look like rice in my opinion - JBR is the nicest looking aftermarket one but not a luxo-car knob :-)

We haz mazda pu, not a luxury car. But I do agree with you, most aftermarket knobs for our car do look rice.

I chose this car over an Acura TSX. It was the power and turbo that sold me. I felt like I stole the car as I drove it off the lot.

So I got the JBR RMM installed today. Wasn't exactly perfect. The stock bolt is too short to use the supplied lock washer. Only got a couple threads on, ended up stripping the nut JBR sent and had to go pick another one up. Used that one without the lock washer, since my dad (a long time mechanic) said lock washers on heavy steel like that don't do much and aren't necessary.

The install was easy other than that. Took longer to jack it up then to install it.

The only problem is that it's a lot stiffer than I was expecting. The vibration is a bit annoying honestly. At idle it isn't too bad, but at about 2k rpm when moving off, it feels like you're dragging a brake or something, it just stutters and vibrates pretty badly. Noise is also increased, even when cruising. Not sure I'm gonna be able to handle it for a DD. We'll find out though. Gonna drive it for a bit and see how it goes. Might end up going down to the 80 and selling this.

The car definitely feels like it pulls better, and the shifts are smoother. No slamming the engine off the firewall anymore.

Time to go install the SSP then go for a ride, then install the steel shifter bushings and another drive.

I like that your doing them one at a time. Did you get a heavier knob? Looking forward to your updates. You got the dogbone right?

Didn't get a new knob, just kept the stock. I like the way stock looks and wanted to see how it went.

Back from installing both the SSP, then drive, then steel bushings, then drive.

The SSP went pretty well, except that at first I only used one grommet, turns out I needed two, so took the airbox back out and fixed it up with two. The instructions aren't exactly right for the 2010, but they're close I suppose.

I didn't drive after the SSP install, just sat in the car and ran through the gears. Definitely shorter, feels a bit notchier, but it might just take me time to get used to it.

Took a break and then installed the bushings. They're a PITA to install, but totally worth it. The shifting just feels so much more solid and connected now. The instructions for those have a bunch of stuff you don't need to do. All you need to remove is the shifter cover/ashtray, and the cup holders really. Getting the old inserts and bushings out takes a little bit of finesse and some cursing. FYI, don't use your old car's key as a pry tool, it will break. Off to Volvo tomorrow to get a new key... I hope I can just take them a title and get a key. Yeah, I'm an idiot. I was too lazy to go find my flat blade screwdrivers.

The drive after both feels real nice. Had a bit of trouble getting into 6th, but I think that's just me getting used to the shifter. I keep giving it more force than I really need to, trying to push it too far. It will take some time to get used to I think.

All in all, totally worth it for all of them.

Also, when you turn off the A/C the RMM isn't quite as bad. At idle it feels fine, there's just a bit of rumble at a certain RPM when starting off, around 2k or so. I think I'll be able to live with it, but we'll see.

SRI/TIP is probably next, but we'll see when that is.

Well, that didn't take long. Ordered the CS SRI/TIP today. All black except a red MAF housing.

It's like some sort of disease.

The super duper tranny fluid is also next. Getting picked up today after work from Ford dealership. That'll go in on Friday probably. Would be nice to have the SRI/TIP before then since I'll be leaving for a long drive Friday evening/Saturday for Labor Day. Also since I have to take the airbox out to do the tranny fluid anyway (according to the easy directions I read, using a funnel from above), I could just slap the SRI/TIP on while I'm there.

Seriously, I'm done for a while. AP/fuel pump are next, but I'm gonna try to wait. Seriously, I'm waiting.

OCC will be in there somewhere as well. After I get the OCC I'll take the intake manifold and everything off and clean it out I think, start fresh. Does anyone have input on the EGR block off?

$5 bucks say's once you feel/hear the difference of the SRI/TIP, you will want to go even further and go ahead and get the AP! Modding is a disease, once you caught it, you can't stop! :clit:

hahaha ya i said i was gonna take it easy too... it doesnt work that easily... but glad ur reading

So which tranny oil are you going to put in it?
I'm getting a MS3 next week and i've planned to do pretty much everything u've done except i dun seem to find the right tranny oil from redline...

Motocraft XT-M5-QS. You can find it at your local ford dealership. They're getting $20/quart from me, which seems fair for a change that lasts as long as it does. You'll need 3 quarts. There's a how-to around that's really useful. They put it in from the top using a transmission filler tube from some auto parts store, so you don't have to sit there holding it all.

I'm also now planning on doing the EGR blockoff at some point, at the same time as the OCC. I'll do a Seafoam treatment right afterwards as well, then I'll be starting with a nice clean engine, and keeping it that way with the EGR and OCC. I'm also planning to do the throttle body coolant bypass, possibly Friday before my trip as well.

I'm thinking the OCC, EGR, AP, and internals will all be at once, probably in 2 months or so.

My SRI/TIP and Ultraguages are both gonna be here tomorrow, so I'll get them in before my trip, along with the fluid.

What made you decide on internals over the CPE just curious? Also, while i'm questioning you to death, are you getting a Damond OCC?

Hell yeah to that bypass, you should consider the TIG/Gaskets here as well if your gonna be in there anyways:
TIG? // SURE Motorsports // Mazda Performance Equipment
jbarone makes a set too I think.

tech package? yeah.

Internals are just so much cheaper, and yeah, the OCC will likely be Damond. Not sure the gaskets are worth it. I've heard varying opinions, plus people cracking their manifolds putting them in. I'm considering it eventually though.

whoa, holy crap, really? If you happened to save those links if you get a minute mind throwing them in here?

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...anifold-89126/

There's one, read that this morning. There's others. It seems to be more of a problem with SURE than JBR, but I'm not 100% on that. JBR even has a mention in the description of his intake TIG that his is thin enough to work just as well but not crack your manifold.

Fine tuning your shifter will help an incredible amount. Trust me, I tried the first time and thought it didn't do anything, but just tried again a couple weeks ago and it made a world of a difference.

Maybe you read my thread, the hidden hitch fits perfectly and installs in minutes.

BTW..you need your car at the dealer to get a new key..

Welcome to the addiction..

I ended up remembering I had a spare key somewhere for the Volvo. So the dealership wasn't necessary, thankfully.

Ultraguages and TIP/SRI should be here today. Had a long week at work so I'm gonna take off a bit early and hopefully get those installed as well as adjust the shifter and change the fluid in the tranny.

Tomorrow he (my car is a he, just too powerful for a she, name is Pagut, pronounced with an umlaut over the u, stands for Perks of Growing Up Two, number one is my g/f car, which she named Pagu when she got him from her parents, he's a Protege5, and mine is a perk of having a great job) goes to the dealership to get the driver's door speaker looked at. It's rattling a lot and driving me crazy. I supposedly have a pretty mod friendly dealership, I guess I'll find out. Hopefully they don't try to say that the SRI/TIP caused the rattling speaker, lol.

Should hold off on the sri/tip just to be safe.

How longs your trip? I'd like to know now and after if you get back on before leaving what you think of that mount. Is it still too much transfer for you?

About 6.5 hour trip. It seems to be getting worn in a bit. While I'm under there today doing the tranny fluid I'll make sure it isn't loose. The only time it's bad is one spot around 2k RPM and a certain throttle position, but it only really happens when moving off.

The g/f doesn't mind it, and other people didn't really notice until I pointed it out. I'll let you know how it does on the trip, but I think it's gonna be fine.

Ultragauges came, CS SRI/TIP came. Picked up the tranny fluid and a tranny fill tube. Got some car wash stuff, and some wood to make a couple ramps.

The dealership found a couple loose screws in the door, but the speaker still made noise. They're ordering a new one. I'll just have to deal with it during the trip I suppose. Sure is nice having a warranty though, never had that before.

Tomorrow is the transmission fluid, then shift tuning, then SRI/TIP install, then ultragauge setup, then go to the g/f place to wash the car (they have a pay vacuum and a hose there), then leave for the trip. Gonna be a busy day of hanging out with the car, I'm looking forward to it.

Got everything installed yesterday. Didn't get a change to wash the car since I was late and it rained anyway.

The hitch still isn't installed, but whatever. That's lame anyway and I don't need it right now. The SRI/TIP sounds badass and feels like it pulls harder. The transmission fluid feels better, but still not great. I don't think I did the shift tuning correctly. I kept moving it little bits, but it always got worse, so I just ended up back where I started.

Sometimes I can't get into 1st at a stop, and sometimes 5th/6th doesn't feel great, so I don't know which direction to adjust.

Very curious on an update.

Answered.

But how's the RMM?

The RMM is about perfect now. I still haven't launched with it since I'm trying to take it easy lately, but the vibrations have settled out. The only time you'll notice it is around 2500 rpm there is some sort of harmonic in our engine I think, so it vibrates a fair amount, but it seems to only be when you're either unloaded (neutral/clutch) or decelerating. If you're just cruising at 2500 it doesn't seem to be there. If it doesn't bother my g/f (she actually says she kinda likes it, feels more "natural" or something to her) then it's fine with me.

I like feeling connected to the engine. I'd definitely recommend the 88, even for a daily driver.

In b4 "she came in my car" thread

LOL!

When you get the AP, you can turn the idle up a bit to keep your girl from preferring your car's vibrations over you. HAHA!

HAHA! Try not to go on too many 6 hour drives!

i wonder if you did the BS delete that would go away or otherwise change.

Dude, keep tuning it. It's TOTALLY worth it. Move the adjustment knob thing just a TINY bit at a time, and press the clip back in, go for a short drive through the gears and try again if it's not better. Just adjust little by little and you'll find the sweet spot. It took me a little over an hour but it paid off with smooth like butter shifting.

Yeah, it's still on the list of things to do, just ran out of time/patience. We'll see.

GTFO

Ya know, I make it a point not to buy from places that spam. So thanks Russel VW of Maryland, I know one place I'll never buy a car.

well, that was random...

AP and HPFP ordered. The AP will be here Tuesday, not sure about the fuel pump. I'm giving the PTP or whatever they're called now, guy a chance. He's supposedly retooled and much better, plus it was about $100 cheaper than other internals, so I decided to be the guinea pig.

edit: I don't have a permanent tag yet, and I haven't made my first payment, but I've spent $1200 on stuff for the car, lol. The place I bought the car told me to write my name some places instead of signing it, because NC wants full name, not signature, but then NC sent it back to them telling them they wanted all signatures to match. So they overnighted it to me and it'll be back to them Tuesday. My tag runs out Sunday or something I think. I'm not really sure what happens when your temporary tag runs out but you haven't been able to get a real one yet (through no fault of your own).

fwiw, my experience has beee that the State Patrol doesn't really give a shit about WHY your temp is expired. If you get pulled over, explain the situation and that you just haven't received your tags from the dealer. Honesty will probably get yourself off with a fix it warning. Unless the cop was really paying attention and right behind you, it's likely to be non-issue, as they are not coded to be easily recognized as expired. Most cops are going to see the temp tag and that's that.

I would drop by your dealer and tell them you either need another temp tag (their expense) or your tags. Make it their issue.

The dealer is 90 minutes away, so it's not exactly convenient to drop by. I might call them if I don't have my tags by the end of the week, and have them overnight me a new temp tag.

I have the same issue, they dont recognize colorados right to give 60 day temp tags, so suddenly i'm fucked. It's not a huge deal since i traded in and used a down payment my fees should be minimal, its just getting a letter when you thought you still had 2 weeks, telling you they decided you only had 30 days after 45 days had gone by... lame

Thanks for being the guinea pig. If your internals hold up by next spring, i'll probably go with PTP as well :)

Not off to the best start, with either the AP or the hpfp. I can't get atr to install, just hangs halfway through. Tried a number of times last night. Gonna email them or something when I get home tonight.

The fuel pump finally shipped today, 4 business days (6 real days) after I ordered it. So much for "we usually ship same day". I was expecting to install this weekend, but I guess it'll be next weekend.

On a better note, the stage 1 tip/sri 93 octane ots tune is noticeably quick, despite terrible ltfts (double digits occasionally) and the fact that ots maps suck. If only I could get atr installed...

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So the internals got here today, so I'll be installing them shortly. Gotta go pick up some tools first.

The only thing I'm confused about is one piece/tool that came with it.

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/p...ket_82692_.jpg

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/p...ket_82693_.jpg

Anybody know what the fuck this thing is? It's not in the instructions anywhere.

Man i need an AP...

In for your interesting build.

Fuel pump is off the car, but I can't get that fucking 18mm nut off. I bought a cheap vise, but the jaws aren't big enough to really hold it tight. Don't have anywhere to put a real vise. Gonna swing by the auto parts store on the way out to date night with the g/f and see if they will let me borrow their vice to get it apart, and then again tomorrow to put it back together.

Just go to any shop and ask to use their air/hydraulic tool to remove it.

I bet it wouldn't cost that much to get a shop to even put the internals in. Since its out of the car.

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So here's what I ended up doing. It's not exactly professional, but my dad, who's a professional mechanic and has taught diesel stuff, recommended it as a possibility.

Take two long flat blade screwdrivers, as thick as will fit through the mounting holes. Grab a pry bar, and use it to wedge between the two screwdrivers, as close to the pump as possible so you don't just bend them. You can't really hurt the pump like this, since the screwdrivers will break long before your mounting holes.

Put the socket on, and have someone hold down on the end of the pry bar (the pump will want to rise up). Twist and you're done. If you can get it off, getting it back on shouldn't be a problem, although I haven't gotten there yet.

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/p...ket_82772_.jpg

That's a pretty good solution. Nice idea

I also realized that I think if you put the pry bar opposite to the ratchet, the pump won't want to rise, but it'll be harder to get torque I think.

thats a good ideas. Have a buddy help and hold the screw driver end.

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Well, my car is fine. Got everything installed correctly. Turns out my torque wrench is broken and I was actually over 50 ft lbs already, just didn't know it. I took it to Pep Boys and they threw it in a vice with their torque wrench and a deeper 18mm socket and took care of it for me.

Put it back in the car and did the first set of break in instructions. Idle, then 1500, idle, 2500, idle, 3500, with one minute intervals, then again with 2 minute, then again with 3 minute.

It didn't like the last 3 minute one at 3500, I think it shut down the fuel for a second because of knock, my intake temps were at 190 with engine temps of 205, so BAT was probably 250 or something.

The fuel pump makes a lot of noise though, just the camshaft lobe clicking against it I think. Is that normal? I don't really remember what it sounded like before. You can't hear it in the car or anything, but under the hood you can definitely tell it's coming from the pump.

Boy that sounds dubious and I've never read anything like that before.

Meh. I figured it couldn't hurt. Did take quite a while though, about 30 minutes and I shortened a bit.

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Does anyone know why the threads about the new ptp all seem to be dissapearing?

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Wow man you have been on a tear, I think I've been reading and looking at which SRI to get in the same amount of time you did all this

Me=Fail

I meant the clicking

The hpfp with internals are very loud sometimes. Mine is noticeable @ tip-in, but very well

could be a bit louder @ idle also.

get the stiff RMM, it will loosen up and honestly I got the hardest Cp-e one and it wasnt that bad when I put i in

Get a nice 3" CAI, if you are really going into mods like it seems like you are (as you are getting the fuel pump and the cobb AP) you will end up going back and replacing the SRI with a CAI anyway.



honestly, this is a really smart way of doing it, getting all the smart preventative stuff done at the same time as the obvious first mods. Way to play it safe

Little late, but thanks. I read about sri versus cai, went with sri for multiple reasons. Ended up with the dogbone, glad I did. I like it.

As for the loud fuel pump, it's still running after 50 miles, so I didn't fuck up too bad apparently. Can't wait for 100 so I can do my maf and really start tuning. It'll also be nice to be able to go wot again, stupid break in period.

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About 75 miles right now. I'm currently on the Stage 1 CS SRI/TIP tune, have been since before the fuel pump.

So I've got 25 miles left on the fuel break in. I'm thinking tomorrow I'll do a MAF cal on my Stage 1, then I'll apply the MAF cal to a Stage 2 CS SRI/TIP tune, since that's what I plan to use for my baseline tune. After another 50 miles I'll check on the MAF cal, and if it's good I'll do my first WOT logs, check on the fuel pressure, and start tuning from there.

Does that all make sense? Am I doing something stupid or in a weird order or something?

From what I have read, this sounds fine lol. Might tap you later when i do the same actually. for now have a free bump.

Forgive my noob question ( I haven't begun my power modding journey yet), but why bother MAF caling on stage 1? Why not just MAF cal on stage 2, and skip the stage 1 cal?

I think (not sure, which is why I asked the question) that once you do a maf cal and get a good solid table, you can just move that with you through all your tunes.

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Did the MAF cal. Think it went ok. The numbers weren't the same between my logs, so I kinda winged it slightly and took a sort of weighted average. We'll see how that works.

Put the MAF table in the Stage 2 CS SRI/TIH map and flashed it. Drove it around the block, seemed fine. Now another annoying 50 miles or so of driving like an 80 year old, then another MAF log, and hopefully it'll be good enough to start actually tuning.

Did a MAF log yesterday after about 60 miles or something. Everything seems good. Within +- 4. Highest is 3.9 or 2.3, depending on log. I'm at 0 at high MAF and idle, which is sweet.

Started working on following the rest of Abilor's tune. Getting a bit confused. I've done the fueling, the boost targets (targeting 18 to start), and the load and boost error comp tables.

Now I'm on chapter 9, adjusting WGDC, and I'm confused. I think I heard the formula for WGDC is different on the Gen 2, but I can't find it and I'm not sure how to set up these tables.

Maybe he can weigh in. He woudl be the guy i would try to ask over anyone else at this point... i dont know if he's Gen1 only or it matters though... I'm not quite where you are yet.
@Abilor

Just do some pulls and adjust WGDC according to overboost or underboost

Because you want to tune for open loop, which bases fueling on the mass airflow. if your mass airflow sensor is improperly calibrated, it won't get a proper reading and that could mess up your fueling in open loop.

So I made some tuning adjustments. No matter what I did I couldn't build over 16 psi. Did a boost test today and I have a leak. Appears to be on the compressor housing, a crack or something. Gonna stock out today and hit up the dealership tomorrow.

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Dealership didn't do shit. They replaced the bpv on a whim, then took it back when I explained the problem. Didn't seem to know what a boost test was, and since it doesn't make a noise that you can hear while driving, they said it was fine. Gonna go do a log real quick to see how fucked up the trims are. Then pulling the intake again, tip.included this time, and do another boost test. Hopefully I'll be able to see better and find the leak.

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Alright, that didn't go too badly. Turns out the "leak" I got was actually the tiny fitting in the TIP (I don't know what this is for, but anyway) leaking a bit. I tightened it down, all good. Wouldn't have been under boost anyway, which is probably why it didn't leak enough to hear when not testing.

Still doesn't explain why I can't get over 16 psi. Time to wait 50 miles for my trims to settle, since I had a leak post MAF.

Anyway, put it back together, installed my hitch, everything seems fine. I'll have to wait to see how the MAF trims go, then do a couple WOT logs and see what happens.

Why a hitch, you planning on towing a boat, trailer, jet ski. This really isn't a towing vehicle considering its fwd.

Sent from my evo 3d

Bikes on a rack and a boat (Laser, weighs a solid 300 with the trailer).

If anyone is still paying attention to this crap, my fuel trims are indeed all out of wack after having the leak. Showing +9 at one break. Only at 25 miles. Gonna wait until 50 then do a new MAF cal.

Then hopefully get back to tuning.

Dude I read your thread always. I just did MAF logs or attempted them anyway today. This reminds me of a thread in which the OP had a bad weld somewhere and was losing an incredible amount of air through a tiny little hole in a weld.

Haven't updated this in a while. My trims kinda settled after finding the leak, so I went back to tuning for a bit, but mostly I've just been really busy trying to buy a house and stuff. I've got one under contract now, so I've got a bit of time here and there.

Got my boost up to 18 psi, with 11.4 AFR, but I was hitting 100% WGDC. Flowing decent though, 250 g/s. Decided to drop the boost down a bit and work on my AFR for a while, aiming for 11.8, maybe 11.9. That's after I do another MAF cal. Checked and they were +5 at the worst. So I'm gonna throw a new MAF cal on there tomorrow and get back to tuning end of the week.

I've got eventual plans for possibly going e85. After seeing what phate and others are doing, ridiculous power with just a fuel pump and SRI. I'd like to start with e85 and then eventually go fully bolted with e85, but with the K04. I bet it's possible to get more power than is useful for a FWD car.

Loving your thread! Just bought a Liquid Silver 2012 MS3 2 weeks ago, and I'm planning a similar build path.

Curious; Why did you opt for a SRI vs CAI?

Also, would you mind posting some links to other threads you've found helpful? vBulletin search sucks. ;-)

Cheers!

The search does indeed suck. You can use google and use the site modifier.

Most people go for the sri because it's cheaper, easier to install and remove, and there doesn't seem to be much difference in hp. The cai lowers intake temps, but that doesn't translate to much lowered boosted air temps. The cai also loses its advantage the faster you go.

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Hah -- Did some searching after posting. Sure don't want to stir up that debate. COBB SRI will probably be my route.

So the MAF cal was on the money. Did the log today after about 90 miles, and I got 0, 0, and 0 for my LTFT. That's as good as it gets.

Did a couple WOT runs as well, but the nanny fucked them both up with throttle cuts in the middle, so they're basically useless. I had DSC off, but I need to go ahead and pull the SWAS. I hate that thing.

Do 4th gear WOT runs if possible. Shouldnt get any tire spin or need to correct for the spinning.

It wasn't tire spin, it was turning the wheel. SWAS has been disconnected with a toggle switch.

^^ Details of said toggle switch please?
Did that mess with your ABS? I believe the ABS also relies on that circuit