2010 MS3 Tuning start

[Pedal-Force]

About 6.5 hour trip. It seems to be getting worn in a bit. While I'm under there today doing the tranny fluid I'll make sure it isn't loose. The only time it's bad is one spot around 2k RPM and a certain throttle position, but it only really happens when moving off.

The g/f doesn't mind it, and other people didn't really notice until I pointed it out. I'll let you know how it does on the trip, but I think it's gonna be fine.

[Pedal-Force]

Ultragauges came, CS SRI/TIP came. Picked up the tranny fluid and a tranny fill tube. Got some car wash stuff, and some wood to make a couple ramps.

The dealership found a couple loose screws in the door, but the speaker still made noise. They're ordering a new one. I'll just have to deal with it during the trip I suppose. Sure is nice having a warranty though, never had that before.

Tomorrow is the transmission fluid, then shift tuning, then SRI/TIP install, then ultragauge setup, then go to the g/f place to wash the car (they have a pay vacuum and a hose there), then leave for the trip. Gonna be a busy day of hanging out with the car, I'm looking forward to it.

[Pedal-Force]

Got everything installed yesterday. Didn't get a change to wash the car since I was late and it rained anyway.

The hitch still isn't installed, but whatever. That's lame anyway and I don't need it right now. The SRI/TIP sounds badass and feels like it pulls harder. The transmission fluid feels better, but still not great. I don't think I did the shift tuning correctly. I kept moving it little bits, but it always got worse, so I just ended up back where I started.

Sometimes I can't get into 1st at a stop, and sometimes 5th/6th doesn't feel great, so I don't know which direction to adjust.

[GunGuru727]

Very curious on an update.

Answered.

But how's the RMM?

[Pedal-Force]

The RMM is about perfect now. I still haven't launched with it since I'm trying to take it easy lately, but the vibrations have settled out. The only time you'll notice it is around 2500 rpm there is some sort of harmonic in our engine I think, so it vibrates a fair amount, but it seems to only be when you're either unloaded (neutral/clutch) or decelerating. If you're just cruising at 2500 it doesn't seem to be there. If it doesn't bother my g/f (she actually says she kinda likes it, feels more "natural" or something to her) then it's fine with me.

I like feeling connected to the engine. I'd definitely recommend the 88, even for a daily driver.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force it doesn't bother my g/f (she actually says she kinda likes it, feels more "natural" or something to her)

In b4 "she came in my car" thread

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by adlpb In b4 "she came in my car" thread

LOL!

When you get the AP, you can turn the idle up a bit to keep your girl from preferring your car's vibrations over you. HAHA!

[urville]

HAHA! Try not to go on too many 6 hour drives!

i wonder if you did the BS delete that would go away or otherwise change.

[ahskeetz]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Got everything installed yesterday. Didn't get a change to wash the car since I was late and it rained anyway. The hitch still isn't installed, but whatever. That's lame anyway and I don't need it right now. The SRI/TIP sounds badass and feels like it pulls harder. The transmission fluid feels better, but still not great. I don't think I did the shift tuning correctly. I kept moving it little bits, but it always got worse, so I just ended up back where I started. Sometimes I can't get into 1st at a stop, and sometimes 5th/6th doesn't feel great, so I don't know which direction to adjust.

Dude, keep tuning it. It's TOTALLY worth it. Move the adjustment knob thing just a TINY bit at a time, and press the clip back in, go for a short drive through the gears and try again if it's not better. Just adjust little by little and you'll find the sweet spot. It took me a little over an hour but it paid off with smooth like butter shifting.

[Pedal-Force]

Yeah, it's still on the list of things to do, just ran out of time/patience. We'll see.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by LaibeSimon the HPFP internals are necessary because the stock fuel pump is so weak. The Cobb AP is required so you dont blow up your engine and you can monitor whats goin on with your car. maryland volkswagen

GTFO

[Pedal-Force]

Ya know, I make it a point not to buy from places that spam. So thanks Russel VW of Maryland, I know one place I'll never buy a car.

[Sacrilicious]

well, that was random...

[Pedal-Force]

AP and HPFP ordered. The AP will be here Tuesday, not sure about the fuel pump. I'm giving the PTP or whatever they're called now, guy a chance. He's supposedly retooled and much better, plus it was about $100 cheaper than other internals, so I decided to be the guinea pig.

edit: I don't have a permanent tag yet, and I haven't made my first payment, but I've spent $1200 on stuff for the car, lol. The place I bought the car told me to write my name some places instead of signing it, because NC wants full name, not signature, but then NC sent it back to them telling them they wanted all signatures to match. So they overnighted it to me and it'll be back to them Tuesday. My tag runs out Sunday or something I think. I'm not really sure what happens when your temporary tag runs out but you haven't been able to get a real one yet (through no fault of your own).

[Rustysocket]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force AP and HPFP ordered. The AP will be here Tuesday, not sure about the fuel pump. I'm giving the PTP or whatever they're called now, guy a chance. He's supposedly retooled and much better, plus it was about $100 cheaper than other internals, so I decided to be the guinea pig. edit: I don't have a permanent tag yet, and I haven't made my first payment, but I've spent $1200 on stuff for the car, lol. The place I bought the car told me to write my name some places instead of signing it, because NC wants full name, not signature, but then NC sent it back to them telling them they wanted all signatures to match. So they overnighted it to me and it'll be back to them Tuesday. My tag runs out Sunday or something I think. I'm not really sure what happens when your temporary tag runs out but you haven't been able to get a real one yet (through no fault of your own).

fwiw, my experience has beee that the State Patrol doesn't really give a shit about WHY your temp is expired. If you get pulled over, explain the situation and that you just haven't received your tags from the dealer. Honesty will probably get yourself off with a fix it warning. Unless the cop was really paying attention and right behind you, it's likely to be non-issue, as they are not coded to be easily recognized as expired. Most cops are going to see the temp tag and that's that.

I would drop by your dealer and tell them you either need another temp tag (their expense) or your tags. Make it their issue.

[Pedal-Force]

The dealer is 90 minutes away, so it's not exactly convenient to drop by. I might call them if I don't have my tags by the end of the week, and have them overnight me a new temp tag.

[urville]

I have the same issue, they dont recognize colorados right to give 60 day temp tags, so suddenly i'm fucked. It's not a huge deal since i traded in and used a down payment my fees should be minimal, its just getting a letter when you thought you still had 2 weeks, telling you they decided you only had 30 days after 45 days had gone by... lame

[ahskeetz]

Thanks for being the guinea pig. If your internals hold up by next spring, i'll probably go with PTP as well

[Pedal-Force]

Not off to the best start, with either the AP or the hpfp. I can't get atr to install, just hangs halfway through. Tried a number of times last night. Gonna email them or something when I get home tonight.

The fuel pump finally shipped today, 4 business days (6 real days) after I ordered it. So much for "we usually ship same day". I was expecting to install this weekend, but I guess it'll be next weekend.

On a better note, the stage 1 tip/sri 93 octane ots tune is noticeably quick, despite terrible ltfts (double digits occasionally) and the fact that ots maps suck. If only I could get atr installed...

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[Pedal-Force]

So the internals got here today, so I'll be installing them shortly. Gotta go pick up some tools first.

The only thing I'm confused about is one piece/tool that came with it.





Anybody know what the fuck this thing is? It's not in the instructions anywhere.

[Toymachinespeed]

Man i need an AP...

In for your interesting build.

[Pedal-Force]

Fuel pump is off the car, but I can't get that fucking 18mm nut off. I bought a cheap vise, but the jaws aren't big enough to really hold it tight. Don't have anywhere to put a real vise. Gonna swing by the auto parts store on the way out to date night with the g/f and see if they will let me borrow their vice to get it apart, and then again tomorrow to put it back together.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Fuel pump is off the car, but I can't get that fucking 18mm nut off. I bought a cheap vise, but the jaws aren't big enough to really hold it tight. Don't have anywhere to put a real vise. Gonna swing by the auto parts store on the way out to date night with the g/f and see if they will let me borrow their vice to get it apart, and then again tomorrow to put it back together.

Just go to any shop and ask to use their air/hydraulic tool to remove it.

[stang9779]

I bet it wouldn't cost that much to get a shop to even put the internals in. Since its out of the car.

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[Pedal-Force]

So here's what I ended up doing. It's not exactly professional, but my dad, who's a professional mechanic and has taught diesel stuff, recommended it as a possibility.

Take two long flat blade screwdrivers, as thick as will fit through the mounting holes. Grab a pry bar, and use it to wedge between the two screwdrivers, as close to the pump as possible so you don't just bend them. You can't really hurt the pump like this, since the screwdrivers will break long before your mounting holes.

Put the socket on, and have someone hold down on the end of the pry bar (the pump will want to rise up). Twist and you're done. If you can get it off, getting it back on shouldn't be a problem, although I haven't gotten there yet.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force So here's what I ended up doing. It's not exactly professional, but my dad, who's a professional mechanic and has taught diesel stuff, recommended it as a possibility. Take two long flat blade screwdrivers, as thick as will fit through the mounting holes. Grab a pry bar, and use it to wedge between the two screwdrivers, as close to the pump as possible so you don't just bend them. You can't really hurt the pump like this, since the screwdrivers will break long before your mounting holes. Put the socket on, and have someone hold down on the end of the pry bar (the pump will want to rise up). Twist and you're done. If you can get it off, getting it back on shouldn't be a problem, although I haven't gotten there yet.

That's a pretty good solution. Nice idea

[Pedal-Force]

I also realized that I think if you put the pry bar opposite to the ratchet, the pump won't want to rise, but it'll be harder to get torque I think.

[stang9779]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force I also realized that I think if you put the pry bar opposite to the ratchet, the pump won't want to rise, but it'll be harder to get torque I think.

thats a good ideas. Have a buddy help and hold the screw driver end.

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[Pedal-Force]

Well, my car is fine. Got everything installed correctly. Turns out my torque wrench is broken and I was actually over 50 ft lbs already, just didn't know it. I took it to Pep Boys and they threw it in a vice with their torque wrench and a deeper 18mm socket and took care of it for me.

Put it back in the car and did the first set of break in instructions. Idle, then 1500, idle, 2500, idle, 3500, with one minute intervals, then again with 2 minute, then again with 3 minute.

It didn't like the last 3 minute one at 3500, I think it shut down the fuel for a second because of knock, my intake temps were at 190 with engine temps of 205, so BAT was probably 250 or something.

The fuel pump makes a lot of noise though, just the camshaft lobe clicking against it I think. Is that normal? I don't really remember what it sounded like before. You can't hear it in the car or anything, but under the hood you can definitely tell it's coming from the pump.

[urville]

Boy that sounds dubious and I've never read anything like that before.

[Pedal-Force]

Meh. I figured it couldn't hurt. Did take quite a while though, about 30 minutes and I shortened a bit.

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[Pedal-Force]

Does anyone know why the threads about the new ptp all seem to be dissapearing?

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[fermentj]

Wow man you have been on a tear, I think I've been reading and looking at which SRI to get in the same amount of time you did all this

Me=Fail

[urville]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Meh. I figured it couldn't hurt. Did take quite a while though, about 30 minutes and I shortened a bit. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I meant the clicking

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Well, my car is fine. Got everything installed correctly. Turns out my torque wrench is broken and I was actually over 50 ft lbs already, just didn't know it. I took it to Pep Boys and they threw it in a vice with their torque wrench and a deeper 18mm socket and took care of it for me. Put it back in the car and did the first set of break in instructions. Idle, then 1500, idle, 2500, idle, 3500, with one minute intervals, then again with 2 minute, then again with 3 minute. It didn't like the last 3 minute one at 3500, I think it shut down the fuel for a second because of knock, my intake temps were at 190 with engine temps of 205, so BAT was probably 250 or something. The fuel pump makes a lot of noise though, just the camshaft lobe clicking against it I think. Is that normal? I don't really remember what it sounded like before. You can't hear it in the car or anything, but under the hood you can definitely tell it's coming from the pump.

The hpfp with internals are very loud sometimes. Mine is noticeable @ tip-in, but very well

could be a bit louder @ idle also.

[ReD BoY]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force rear motor mount (RMM) chromoly JBR (dogbone?) - $85 stage 2 short shift plate/knob/bushings JBR - $165 ????EGR block-off JBR - $20???? HPFP - integrated engineering KMD internals - $330 TIP/SRI from CorkSport - $250 Access Port - $595

get the stiff RMM, it will loosen up and honestly I got the hardest Cp-e one and it wasnt that bad when I put i in

Get a nice 3" CAI, if you are really going into mods like it seems like you are (as you are getting the fuel pump and the cobb AP) you will end up going back and replacing the SRI with a CAI anyway.



honestly, this is a really smart way of doing it, getting all the smart preventative stuff done at the same time as the obvious first mods. Way to play it safe

[Pedal-Force]

Originally Posted by ReD BoY get the stiff RMM, it will loosen up and honestly I got the hardest Cp-e one and it wasnt that bad when I put i in Get a nice 3" CAI, if you are really going into mods like it seems like you are (as you are getting the fuel pump and the cobb AP) you will end up going back and replacing the SRI with a CAI anyway. honestly, this is a really smart way of doing it, getting all the smart preventative stuff done at the same time as the obvious first mods. Way to play it safe

Little late, but thanks. I read about sri versus cai, went with sri for multiple reasons. Ended up with the dogbone, glad I did. I like it.

As for the loud fuel pump, it's still running after 50 miles, so I didn't fuck up too bad apparently. Can't wait for 100 so I can do my maf and really start tuning. It'll also be nice to be able to go wot again, stupid break in period.

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[Pedal-Force]

About 75 miles right now. I'm currently on the Stage 1 CS SRI/TIP tune, have been since before the fuel pump.

So I've got 25 miles left on the fuel break in. I'm thinking tomorrow I'll do a MAF cal on my Stage 1, then I'll apply the MAF cal to a Stage 2 CS SRI/TIP tune, since that's what I plan to use for my baseline tune. After another 50 miles I'll check on the MAF cal, and if it's good I'll do my first WOT logs, check on the fuel pressure, and start tuning from there.

Does that all make sense? Am I doing something stupid or in a weird order or something?

[urville]

From what I have read, this sounds fine lol. Might tap you later when i do the same actually. for now have a free bump.

[Caboose]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force About 75 miles right now. I'm currently on the Stage 1 CS SRI/TIP tune, have been since before the fuel pump. So I've got 25 miles left on the fuel break in. I'm thinking tomorrow I'll do a MAF cal on my Stage 1, then I'll apply the MAF cal to a Stage 2 CS SRI/TIP tune, since that's what I plan to use for my baseline tune. After another 50 miles I'll check on the MAF cal, and if it's good I'll do my first WOT logs, check on the fuel pressure, and start tuning from there. Does that all make sense? Am I doing something stupid or in a weird order or something?

Forgive my noob question ( I haven't begun my power modding journey yet), but why bother MAF caling on stage 1? Why not just MAF cal on stage 2, and skip the stage 1 cal?