2010 MS3 Tuning start

[Pedal-Force]

I think (not sure, which is why I asked the question) that once you do a maf cal and get a good solid table, you can just move that with you through all your tunes.

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[Pedal-Force]

Did the MAF cal. Think it went ok. The numbers weren't the same between my logs, so I kinda winged it slightly and took a sort of weighted average. We'll see how that works.

Put the MAF table in the Stage 2 CS SRI/TIH map and flashed it. Drove it around the block, seemed fine. Now another annoying 50 miles or so of driving like an 80 year old, then another MAF log, and hopefully it'll be good enough to start actually tuning.

[Pedal-Force]

Did a MAF log yesterday after about 60 miles or something. Everything seems good. Within +- 4. Highest is 3.9 or 2.3, depending on log. I'm at 0 at high MAF and idle, which is sweet.

Started working on following the rest of Abilor's tune. Getting a bit confused. I've done the fueling, the boost targets (targeting 18 to start), and the load and boost error comp tables.

Now I'm on chapter 9, adjusting WGDC, and I'm confused. I think I heard the formula for WGDC is different on the Gen 2, but I can't find it and I'm not sure how to set up these tables.

[urville]

Maybe he can weigh in. He woudl be the guy i would try to ask over anyone else at this point... i dont know if he's Gen1 only or it matters though... I'm not quite where you are yet.
@Abilor

[ahskeetz]

Just do some pulls and adjust WGDC according to overboost or underboost

Originally Posted by Caboose Forgive my noob question ( I haven't begun my power modding journey yet), but why bother MAF caling on stage 1? Why not just MAF cal on stage 2, and skip the stage 1 cal?

Because you want to tune for open loop, which bases fueling on the mass airflow. if your mass airflow sensor is improperly calibrated, it won't get a proper reading and that could mess up your fueling in open loop.

[Pedal-Force]

So I made some tuning adjustments. No matter what I did I couldn't build over 16 psi. Did a boost test today and I have a leak. Appears to be on the compressor housing, a crack or something. Gonna stock out today and hit up the dealership tomorrow.

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[Pedal-Force]

Dealership didn't do shit. They replaced the bpv on a whim, then took it back when I explained the problem. Didn't seem to know what a boost test was, and since it doesn't make a noise that you can hear while driving, they said it was fine. Gonna go do a log real quick to see how fucked up the trims are. Then pulling the intake again, tip.included this time, and do another boost test. Hopefully I'll be able to see better and find the leak.

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[Pedal-Force]

Alright, that didn't go too badly. Turns out the "leak" I got was actually the tiny fitting in the TIP (I don't know what this is for, but anyway) leaking a bit. I tightened it down, all good. Wouldn't have been under boost anyway, which is probably why it didn't leak enough to hear when not testing.

Still doesn't explain why I can't get over 16 psi. Time to wait 50 miles for my trims to settle, since I had a leak post MAF.

Anyway, put it back together, installed my hitch, everything seems fine. I'll have to wait to see how the MAF trims go, then do a couple WOT logs and see what happens.

[SWAY]

Why a hitch, you planning on towing a boat, trailer, jet ski. This really isn't a towing vehicle considering its fwd.

Sent from my evo 3d

[Pedal-Force]

Bikes on a rack and a boat (Laser, weighs a solid 300 with the trailer).

[Pedal-Force]

If anyone is still paying attention to this crap, my fuel trims are indeed all out of wack after having the leak. Showing +9 at one break. Only at 25 miles. Gonna wait until 50 then do a new MAF cal.

Then hopefully get back to tuning.

[urville]

Dude I read your thread always. I just did MAF logs or attempted them anyway today. This reminds me of a thread in which the OP had a bad weld somewhere and was losing an incredible amount of air through a tiny little hole in a weld.

[Pedal-Force]

Haven't updated this in a while. My trims kinda settled after finding the leak, so I went back to tuning for a bit, but mostly I've just been really busy trying to buy a house and stuff. I've got one under contract now, so I've got a bit of time here and there.

Got my boost up to 18 psi, with 11.4 AFR, but I was hitting 100% WGDC. Flowing decent though, 250 g/s. Decided to drop the boost down a bit and work on my AFR for a while, aiming for 11.8, maybe 11.9. That's after I do another MAF cal. Checked and they were +5 at the worst. So I'm gonna throw a new MAF cal on there tomorrow and get back to tuning end of the week.

I've got eventual plans for possibly going e85. After seeing what phate and others are doing, ridiculous power with just a fuel pump and SRI. I'd like to start with e85 and then eventually go fully bolted with e85, but with the K04. I bet it's possible to get more power than is useful for a FWD car.

[FlashingCursor]

Loving your thread! Just bought a Liquid Silver 2012 MS3 2 weeks ago, and I'm planning a similar build path.

Curious; Why did you opt for a SRI vs CAI?

Also, would you mind posting some links to other threads you've found helpful? vBulletin search sucks. ;-)

Cheers!

[Pedal-Force]

The search does indeed suck. You can use google and use the site modifier.

Most people go for the sri because it's cheaper, easier to install and remove, and there doesn't seem to be much difference in hp. The cai lowers intake temps, but that doesn't translate to much lowered boosted air temps. The cai also loses its advantage the faster you go.

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[FlashingCursor]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Most people go for the sri because it's cheaper, easier to install and remove, and there doesn't seem to be much difference in hp. The cai lowers intake temps, but that doesn't translate to much lowered boosted air temps. The cai also loses its advantage the faster you go.

Hah -- Did some searching after posting. Sure don't want to stir up that debate. COBB SRI will probably be my route.

[Pedal-Force]

So the MAF cal was on the money. Did the log today after about 90 miles, and I got 0, 0, and 0 for my LTFT. That's as good as it gets.

Did a couple WOT runs as well, but the nanny fucked them both up with throttle cuts in the middle, so they're basically useless. I had DSC off, but I need to go ahead and pull the SWAS. I hate that thing.

[YZF-R6]

Do 4th gear WOT runs if possible. Shouldnt get any tire spin or need to correct for the spinning.

[Pedal-Force]

It wasn't tire spin, it was turning the wheel. SWAS has been disconnected with a toggle switch.

[Rich990]

^^ Details of said toggle switch please?
Did that mess with your ABS? I believe the ABS also relies on that circuit

[Pedal-Force]

SWAS - How to disable


Haven't tried the abs. I'll try it when I get a chance.

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[Pedal-Force]

Dumb fucking deer. They already totaled one of my cars, and tried for another tonight. Driving back from Thanksgiving, interstate, dark, mountains, fucker sprints out from the median while I'm doing 75. I swerved, so he only glanced off the left side, but still did some damage. Left headlight bracket is broken, bumper is out of place, some dented/scratched body work, wheel well is dented, and then same thing on the rear wheel well, scratches and dents around there.

I'll be calling the insurance company Monday probably. Don't remember my deductible, but with that much damage I'm thinking it's probably gonna be worth it. A new headlight alone is $300.

[Pedal-Force]

Well, found my policy. Deductible is $500. Hmm... Might end up just fixing it myself. I think I might be able to epoxy the headlight back together and get it solid. The scratches I'll just deal with I guess, they're gonna happen, it's a DD, not a show car. The front bumper being out of place I'd like to fix though.

[rtekkam]

Originally Posted by adlpb Get on the highway with low traffic, on the entrance. Go on 3rd around 25-30mph and just floor it. You should go all the way up until about 80mph and still be close to the speeding limit. Or, go down a street with no traffic, do a reconnaissance drive to check for cops, turn around and do a pull.

Stupid question for WOT runs...when you floor it at 3rd...should the gear remain at 3rd till redline is reached? OR are we shifting to higher gears?..for WOT logs..should I have to touch redline..or will lower work?

[Pedal-Force]

No shifting. Just floor it up till about 6500 rpm and then let off. 6500 rpm looks more like 7000 on the stupid tach.

[rtekkam]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force No shifting. Just floor it up till about 6500 rpm and then let off. 6500 rpm looks more like 7000 on the stupid tach.

Thanks!...I would have been stupid about it. If you could spare a few mins could you please validate my approach to tuning..I am following Abilor's tune guide..and would appreciate any feedback.

My Path to Tuning --> Advice/Suggestions

Thanks!

[Pedal-Force]

Well, it's been almost a year, so I'll give an update.

Nothing interesting has happened. Bought a house, which took the time away from tuning for a while. Getting back to it recently. My tune wasn't great, so I'm starting over. No more parts since last update. I am an idiot though. My comprehensive deductible was only $50, so I should've gotten that deer damage fixed. I've been living with it though. Just a small gap on the front panel.

Bought the fiance a CX-7 a couple days ago. 2010, silver, Grand Touring. Big version of my car, but slower because it's detuned and weighs a lot more. Fun to drive though.

Would like to put some hard parts on after I get this tune dialed in. I want to see how far I can go with what I've got first. I'd love to eventually be BT. Plus need to put some hard parts on the fiance's ride too. I'm thinking at least an intake.

[Pedal-Force]

New revision. Got throttle cut on my last two runs. I think the Requested Load A/B/C weren't out of reach. Multiplied by 3 from 68.75 throttle on up. We'll see how that helps.

[Pedal-Force]

Fixed the throttle cut. Need to dial the wastegate next. Only making 225 WHP according to VD. Not great. I guess not terrible for just an intake, fuel pump and tune. Would be nice to have some more parts eventually.

[Pedal-Force]

Still tuning. Up around 240 WHP. Getting some minor KR around 3k-3.5k RPM. Happens every time. I'm thinking something is probably loose because I'm not even making any boost yet at 3k, only 11 psi. Need to look around the engine bay and see what's banging I guess.

The fueling is also still lean at that point, maybe I need to richen the tip-in. I guess I can try that and if it fixes it then it's probably real KR.

Also probably need to get one step colder plugs. It's on my list.

[econman]

How much boost are you running around 3k-4k? You can get a little KR (should be KR<1) during spool up once you get outside of the turbos efficiency range

[Pedal-Force]

I'm at 18 by 3k, hold that until 5500, then 16 after.

[econman]

That would be my guess about the little bit of KR. I have the same problem

KR explained

[fortressofcomfort]

Since your tune is apparently, well not so good, have you considered trying a new v231 map? Try that. Then if your fuel trims are off plop in your MAF table(s) from your old v200 or v210 map. Then try that. (I still don't understand why people do MAF Cals on common intakes that Cobb has already Maf cal'ed and with cars that are hitting commanded af/rs and getting 31+mpg on the highway but anyway that's personal opinion...) Now all you have left to adjust is Ignition Timing and WGDCs. You say you are getting 225whp on intake, internals, and tune? Not good bro, do what I said above and you should be around 270whp and 330lbs/ft at 3,300rpms (using a 1.01 CF in VD).

Put Abilor's guide away. Its great reading but too much has changed over the years to make it a end-to-end tuning guide. Seems like you are making everything so much harder than it needs to be. Set boost numbers based on hardware, set fueling based on octane, set ignition timing based on KR. Done. And if you are running a pre-v231 Cobb map then you will need to shut down the Load Compensation system. If boost spiking, osciallations, or not hitting targets then visit the WGDC tables (set the left side of the BEC table to zeros and see what your commanded WGDC values are actually getting you; adjust as needed to be 5% below actual, put BEC table back, done).

Attached is a tweaked v210 map I ran on my car with just internals, intake, and tune (this was before my test pipe). It is Dynojet but if you divide by 1.08 you see something like 277whp. I not once had to touch a maf cal table but I respect the reasons why someone would.

[Pedal-Force]

I actually did just that earlier today. Took a v231 Stage 1 and plopped my values for boost, WGDC, fueling (11.8), KR and other stuff (from Bucker's guide). Much better torque curve, but lower HP than I had a couple revisions ago, back down to 225 from 240. Probably just difference in air temp/humidity up/downhill, etc. I have two entrance ramps I use, back to back. One is slightly uphill, one is slightly downhill.

My boost curve is mostly smooth, couple minor oscillations I'd like to smooth out still. I've probably got a long way to go with timing, which I assume is where you made your power gains. I'm only 1* ahead of the OTS tune so far. I don't have any real KR anywhere.

[fortressofcomfort]

Ahhh OTS timing is the worst part of all the OTS maps I've ever seen. So that makes sense. Timing is where its at baby! The values in the ATR cheat sheet are a pretty good starting point although I left all the values from 2000 rpms down at OTS on the v231 map. Seems to make the turbo spool quicker and overall more power at the low end.

[Pedal-Force]

Much better. Maybe. Took the timing from Bucker's Cheat Sheet. Two runs. One was pretty decent, made 260/310, no real knock. Second was 259/299, with lots of knock around 1.8 or so. Weird. Need to add timing in the other areas and remove it in the knock area I guess.

Also making less HP than I should because the boost is tapering early. Need to update my WGDC to let it boost up to 5500 and then taper, instead of taper at 5000.

[Zimmo]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Gee, I had no idea. Thanks for helping me out. /sarcasm I'm well aware of the cash for clunkers program. Just don't see how it pertains to a 2010 MS3 with 11k miles. But thanks anyway. I assume it's just his attempt at being witty.

11K miles is a bit excessive for that year my gen two Dec 2009 only had 6k miles :-P

[Pedal-Force]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force Much better. Maybe. Took the timing from Bucker's Cheat Sheet. Two runs. One was pretty decent, made 260/310, no real knock. Second was 259/299, with lots of knock around 1.8 or so. Weird. Need to add timing in the other areas and remove it in the knock area I guess. Also making less HP than I should because the boost is tapering early. Need to update my WGDC to let it boost up to 5500 and then taper, instead of taper at 5000.

Well, did 3 more runs with the same tune and got no real knock. Must've hit a bump or something in that one run. Time to add moar timing!

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[Pedal-Force]

Backed off the timing for safety, plus it's a little warmer now. I'm currently around 250/290. About all there is without some more hard parts I think (or e85).

Catted DP is on the wish list, but not in the cards at the moment.