2011 mazdaspeed 3

[Easymk]

Hello everyone new to the forum but i just bought a brand new 2011 ms3 0 miles fresh off the truck. I was wondering if there is anything important i should know, going from my automatic piece of shit bmw 528i 97 the speed 3 is going to be alot different. I can drive stick perfectly i just dont want to mess anything in the car up, i have been told i should wait a good 500 miles before opening it up or ripping it any help would be great thanks.

Also hav been offered a hks sucker intake for 80 bucks how long would i have to wait to put this on or can i pop that bad boy on the first day

[adlpb]

Welcome to the forums. Your first mod should be the donation mod. It'll give you access to the For Sale section (VIP forums, much more) in which you'll probably find a better intake than that.

One of your first mods should be a RMM, and take it from there. AP, HPFP, SRI, etc. Do your research and search the forums as most basic questions have already been answered.

[I_Heart_Haters]

just to clarify...
RMM-rear motor mount. talk to JBR.

AP- Cobb Accessport. tuning software and lets you tune the car with basic maps and lets you monitor and log your cars data.

HPFP-high pressure fuel pump. our stock one is shit and when you start modding, you car wont be able to give out enough fuel, therefore you will run lean and hit boost cut. Autotech/KMD/CP-e all make hpfp. this is necessary if you want a downpipe. SEARCH.

SRI-short ram intake. search for the best option for you, but corksport has the best option and it comes with the intake and turbo inlet pipe. youll love it.

if you have any other questions, feel free to ask me, but if you ask simple questions like adlbp said, they've probably already been answered.

anyways, welcome and donate!

[Easymk]

Ok thanks does any of theses mods void my warrenty I would realy like to keep that

[shaftyella]

Originally Posted by adlpb Welcome to the forums. Your first mod should be the donation mod. It'll give you access to the For Sale section (VIP forums, much more) in which you'll probably find a better intake than that. One of your first mods should be a RMM, and take it from there. AP, HPFP, SRI, etc. Do your research and search the forums as most basic questions have already been answered.

^ I agree. I would look into Cobb, Sure, CS, or CP-e intake instead. Also, don't go WOT in any gear before 3k RPM, and don't run to the redline. The car falls on it's face after 5800rpm.

[BigJimMs3]

Yea i installed a cobb sri the next day i bought mine

[shaftyella]

Originally Posted by Easymk Ok thanks does any of theses mods void my warrenty I would realy like to keep that

Different dealerships deal with mods differently. Best practice is to go back to stock before dropping you car off at the dealership. I did this until I saw that they didn't care. If i ever need to get warranty work done I'd def go back to stock again. If you're worried about your warranty I would even bother modding. If you do your research, mod wisely, and listen to the advice of the community it's not likely that you will ever have any issues. Good luck!

[Easymk]

Ok sweet i just diddnt know if u had to give the turbo some time to break in or anything

[9900rpm]

No WOT under 3000 rpm. Search for it on this forum.

[JT.Tuckerman]

I would take it easy on it and not strain it at first- let it break in. Also keep varying the rpm's. I am just starting to open mine up, have just under 2K miles now. Most important...the car is very sensitive to shifting- make sure the clutch is all the way in and to the floor before the gearshift lever is moved and hold it there until the shift is completed. I did not do this at first and rushed a couple of shifts and ground the gears due to the clutch pedal still moving. I thought it was the car at first, it was me. Now I have no more shifting issues. Others cars I have owned are not as sensitive to this. In the mean time, enjoy the car!

[jrotaryb]

Originally Posted by 9900rpm No WOT under 3000 rpm. Search for it on this forum.

That's not really true - I wouldn't go WOT in the higher gears, but in gears 1-2 there is much less load...and the factory ECU also limits boost in these gears.

It comes down to common sense - don't lug the motor.

[Elusivellama]

If this is your first turbo car, never go into boost until after you've driven it around for at least 3 - 5 minutes to make sure you're at operating temperature. When you reach your destination, idle at least 20 - 30 seconds if you were driving normally, and a full minute or two after a hard drive or after getting off the freeway. If you've been driving it especially hard, take 3 - 4 mins. Some say that it is unnecessary to idle after driving normally, but I'd rather just be safe than sorry. These instructions were pretty much lifted from the K04 FAQ that I found a few days ago.

Break it in by varying your rpms while driving as much as you can, without being unsafe. Do some WOT pulls followed by engine braking (leave it in gear, foot off throttle) and let the engine cool down for a while. Or you can follow the owner's manual break-in procedure... either way works, I personally think these engines are pretty much ready to go from the factory.

Don't intentionally lug the engine (ex. cruising at 2.5k and jamming the throttle to the floor in 6th gear, always downshift). Change your oil after 1000 miles and use a full synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40. Some use Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra 5W-30, others use Shell Rotella 5W-40, others use Amsoil, etc. Just don't use Mobil One, it appears to suck for our engines.

Replace rear motor mount with a quality 75 duro aftermarket piece and go from there. Wait at least 3 - 5k miles before you start modding, just in case you have to go back to the dealer for adjustments and other crap. Also, a heavy shift knob (like JBarone's) really helps improve shift feel, doesn't cost a lot and is very easy to install.

[Easymk]

Thank you tucker i was wondering where the best place to leave te clutch when shifting because my frinds evo8 is pretty complicated but very different

[Easymk]

Ok so should i change oil every 1000 miles or just for the first 1000 then i can go to every 3000

Im porbally gonna pick up a turbo timer first

[9900rpm]

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance That's not really true - I wouldn't go WOT in the higher gears, but in gears 1-2 there is much less load...and the factory ECU also limits boost in these gears. It comes down to common sense - don't lug the motor.

I used to go WOT at all rpm range, and nothing happened. If the car is stock, I would be doing it all day long, and let Mazda worry about it should something happen

[shaftyella]

Originally Posted by Easymk Ok so should i change oil every 1000 miles or just for the first 1000 then i can go to every 3000 Im porbally gonna pick up a turbo timer first

Don't bother. Turbo timer is a waste in the platform. Much better mods out there for the money.

[Easymk]

Really thought it would help save turbo without haveing to sit abd wait for it to cool down but thanks

[adlpb]

Turbo timer is unnecessary. Save your money for more important mods. Just use common sense. Don't go full boost until you reach full engine temp, and just because your little blue light goes off does NOT mean you have reached it (takes 3-5 minutes).

Regarding the warranty, I just want to clarify that warranty is NOT voided. Nothing will void your warranty. Mazda can only deny a claim. How can they deny a claim? If, for example, your turbo goes boom and you have an aftermarket Downpipe. But if your radio stops working and you have full bolt-ons, they shouldn't give you trouble. It's only an aftermarket part in relation to the broken one that they will deny you for. But your warranty will be active for the period it states regardles of what you put. Once again, it is not voided.

Go here to look up any acronyms you read in here which you don't understand, it helps a lot:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...cronyms-79573/

[JBR]

Welcome!!

Take time to read and understand what you're doing with the car. As mentioned, a rear motor mount will greatly improve shifting and help with wheel hop. Shifter base bushings and a heavy shift knob are great mods to get your feet wet. PM me if you have any questions.

Jamie

[djthom]

you kind of smell like a troll...

Here's why...

painfully obvious questions that would be answered if you just lurked a bit...
turbo timer comment...
i am sure the blow off valve question is coming any minute now...

If you are an actual human than i apologize...welcome to the forum.
do your homework...read read read!

[Easymk]

I dont know what a troll is i dont give a f$ck what u have to say i was doing fine with the other people if they cared what i was asking thy wouldnt have answered but thanks dueche

And the car doesnt arrive for a couple days so i have time to read and figure out what im doing

Thanks for all the help everyone

[faeker]

Welcome to MSF!

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Easymk I dont know what a troll is i dont give a f$ck what u have to say i was doing fine with the other people if they cared what i was asking thy wouldnt have answered but thanks dueche And the car doesnt arrive for a couple days so i have time to read and figure out what im doing Thanks for all the help everyone

Urban Dictionary: troll

And don't forget to donate.

[Dash08]

Originally Posted by Easymk I dont know what a troll is i dont give a f$ck what u have to say i was doing fine with the other people if they cared what i was asking thy wouldnt have answered but thanks dueche

Damn these new rules. This post is ripe.

Calm down, dude. That is nothing compared to how brutal this forum gets.

We've sent people away in tears.


Despite our savage nature, this really is the best online source for technical information. Spend some time reading through the different sections. All the info you need is here.

If you want some entertainment, donate and visit the V.I.P. section. You won't be disappointed.

[Toymachinespeed]

The manual says to do about 600 miles. That's what I did and I just kept easy on it and it's running great! Get an rmm or an Sri (short ram intake) first great first mods

[snOhio]

first mod should be reading the owners manual, its not there for decoration. second mod should be breaking in the car stock and learning it. i came from an older automatic sedan as well and there was a period of adjustment figuring out how to successfully DD this car. third mod, when you start asking yourself why it feels like the engine is held in place with rubber bands, should be RMM. At that point you have learned the car and fixed the most glaring factory fail and should good to start adding moar power.

also searching is good.

[Easymk]

word up sounds good

[ZipprSuitdSungod]

Originally Posted by Easymk .......but thanks dueche

Learn how to spell 'douche', Douche.

[Easymk]

Na im cool with third grade spelling abbilities i dont wanna learn

[Whiteboy]

Originally Posted by Easymk Na im cool with third grade spelling abbilities i dont wanna learn

One thing that you will learn here, we don't like douchebags who can't spell or form a proper sentence. Your choice...enjoy the forum!

[DONOTBUGME]

welcome

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by Easymk Na im cool with third grade spelling abbilities i dont wanna learn

welcome

everything u need to know and want to know has already been discussed. if you search, ull find it.

donating will get u VIP access and give u lots of useful info. plus u wont be called a brownie

Also, if someone makes a helpful comment, there is a THANKS button that u can hit in order to thank them. just FYI

[WorstEpEver]

Whale Cum

[faeker]

Originally Posted by rghispanic88 welcome everything u need to know and want to know has already been discussed. if you search, ull find it. donating will get u VIP access and give u lots of useful info. plus u wont be called a brownie Also, if someone makes a helpful comment, there is a THANKS button that u can hit in order to thank them. just FYI

Don't forget the porn. VIP gets you in to some interesting places.

[Whiteboy]

On a side note...I just farted and about made myself throw up. Fucking epic!

[ChicagoMike]

Originally Posted by Elusivellama If this is your first turbo car, never go into boost until after you've driven it around for at least 3 - 5 minutes to make sure you're at operating temperature. When you reach your destination, idle at least 20 - 30 seconds if you were driving normally, and a full minute or two after a hard drive or after getting off the freeway. If you've been driving it especially hard, take 3 - 4 mins. Some say that it is unnecessary to idle after driving normally, but I'd rather just be safe than sorry. These instructions were pretty much lifted from the K04 FAQ that I found a few days ago. Break it in by varying your rpms while driving as much as you can, without being unsafe. Do some WOT pulls followed by engine braking (leave it in gear, foot off throttle) and let the engine cool down for a while. Or you can follow the owner's manual break-in procedure... either way works, I personally think these engines are pretty much ready to go from the factory. Don't intentionally lug the engine (ex. cruising at 2.5k and jamming the throttle to the floor in 6th gear, always downshift). Change your oil after 1000 miles and use a full synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40. Some use Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra 5W-30, others use Shell Rotella 5W-40, others use Amsoil, etc. Just don't use Mobil One, it appears to suck for our engines. Replace rear motor mount with a quality 75 duro aftermarket piece and go from there. Wait at least 3 - 5k miles before you start modding, just in case you have to go back to the dealer for adjustments and other crap. Also, a heavy shift knob (like JBarone's) really helps improve shift feel, doesn't cost a lot and is very easy to install.

I read the entire owners manual last week - there is a section in the owners manual about turbo-cool off and to always let it idle for at least 30 seconds before turning it off after highway or spirited driving. It warns of turbo damage if you don't. It's in the MAZDA owners manual!!

I'm using Mobil One Extended Performance (gold cap) true full synthetic.

The rear motor mount is so vital - it did increase my vibration slightly. I went with the 70 duro from JB racing, but if you daily drive the car and you are an adult and have a girlfriend or kids to lug around - 70 is more than enough. It buzzes a little at idle but wow the car is more stable and 1st gear engages without that huge JERKING if you let it out too quick. The stock mount IS crap!

[jv83]

welcome! MSF FTW!

[robry]

welcome to MSF, like others have said, don't forget to search, use the google search instead of the forum search, it works a lot better.

also read the manual cover to cover, it should answer the most basic questions.

then get a RMM, pick your vendor. and enjoy the ride!

[Easymk]

Got the car everythings awsome, except when shifting from first to second clutch all the way in a get a wierd clunk noise reaearched on it. some said it could be motor mount, im hoping it just needs to be broken in. But still confused on what it really is

[ChicagoMike]

Originally Posted by Easymk Got the car everythings awsome, except when shifting from first to second clutch all the way in a get a wierd clunk noise reaearched on it. some said it could be motor mount, im hoping it just needs to be broken in. But still confused on what it really is

The stock motor mount is garbage, replace it asap. It even shifts better after you change it out. Stock is like your motor is sitting in a bowl of jello. Too much torque on these FWD cars.... and they used the stock Mazda 3 motor mount.

Get the JBR 70 Duro.... it will vibe a tiny bit but it's the least agressive mount you can buy. If you don't give a care about vibe.. get the 80 duro.

I'm running the 70 duro and I'm very happy.