2011 mazdaspeed 3

[Scoobs]

Welcome!
Oh yeah, kill some GTI's!

[bertrand_CX_7]

Originally Posted by Elusivellama Change your oil after 1000 miles and use a full synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40. Some use Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra 5W-30, others use Shell Rotella 5W-40, others use Amsoil, etc. Just don't use Mobil One, it appears to suck for our engines.

Hey man, I have a question about mobil one oil? What 's the issue with it and our MZR engine? May be I missed on important point. Because the last time, this is what I was using on my CX-7, Mobil One 3W30 full synthetic.

Thanks for chiming in regarding Mobil One oil not being appropriate for our baby.

[Easymk]

Yea it shifts nice if i do it slowly but when attempting to do really quick shifts i get that wierd sound .im going to look into the mounts now, the vibe isnt bad for the car right

[tragik]

huge cosign on the CorkSport SRI/TIP combo.

Welcome to the site man. Enjoy the car and please donate, search, and work up a thick skin once your noob status wears off.

[G26]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 Hey man, I have a question about mobil one oil? What 's the issue with it and our MZR engine? May be I missed on important point. Because the last time, this is what I was using on my CX-7, Mobil One 3W30 full synthetic. Thanks for chiming in regarding Mobil One oil not being appropriate for our baby.

Apparantly our engine shears the shit out of oil and mobil 1 doesn't hold up to well to it. I run the Shell Rotella, that or penzoil platinum works the best in this motor.

[Easymk]

Just so i dont order something stupid... this seems to cheap so can anyone agree that this is the right mount im gonna go with the 80 duro because ive hear the vibe isnt even bad ....

Rear Motor Mount 80 durometer [MS6MollyRMM] - $70.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication

Just so i dont order something stupid... this seems to cheap so can anyone agree that this is the right mount im gonna go with the 80 duro because ive hear the vibe isnt even bad ....

Rear Motor Mount 80 durometer [MS6MollyRMM] - $70.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Easymk Just so i dont order something stupid... this seems to cheap so can anyone agree that this is the right mount im gonna go with the 80 duro because ive hear the vibe isnt even bad .... Rear Motor Mount 80 durometer [MS6MollyRMM] - $70.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication Just so i dont order something stupid... this seems to cheap so can anyone agree that this is the right mount im gonna go with the 80 duro because ive hear the vibe isnt even bad .... Rear Motor Mount 80 durometer [MS6MollyRMM] - $70.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication

That's for the MS6.

You need either Rear Motor Mount 80 durometer [MZ3MS3BILTRMM80] - $120.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication or if you want to step it up Rear Motor Mount 88 durometer [MZ3MS3MollyRMM] - $85.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication

[Easymk]

You said step it up but te price gets cheaper but thanks does the vibration do anything to the car in the long run

[JBR]

The vibration is minimal and does nothing to the car.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
Jamie

[Easymk]

So i guess im just gonn go with the 88 duro considiring its cheaper and a step up.


If u dont mind could u give me a comparison between the awr, cp-e , street unit, and the jbr

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Easymk So i guess im just gonn go with the 88 duro considiring its cheaper and a step up. If u dont mind could u give me a comparison between the awr, cp-e , street unit, and the jbr

I'd stay away from cp-e, they may have fixed their failing issues but they have higher prices. SU or JBR will give you good results, but JBR has lower prices. That's who I went with.

The 88dm RMM is a bit stiffer than the 80, so you will get more internal cabin vibrations when idle, and you'll feel it with your AC on. But they do tend to settle down after some usage.

[Easymk]

Ok sweet vibrations is a big deal i was only worried about if it would affect anything in the long run but jbarone confirmened it wouldnt

Thankz

[JBR]

The 88 Molly will vibrate more then the others but will allow you the most growth performance wise. The 80 Billet is a nice middle of the road choice. You should not base you decision on vibration but rather what you plan to accomplish long term with the car.

Thanks,
Jamie

[Easymk]

Well i plan on gerting intake, blow off, exhaust after this ..who knows when but i will eventually. So which one would u reccomend with these parts

[JBR]

If that's the extent of your modding then I would say the 80. If you have plans to go beyond that then the 88. You always sell the 80 down the road and get an 88 as well.

[Easymk]

Ok thanks again jbarone

[Jawnskeel]

Just got a new speed3 and I also feel that clunkiness when switching from first to second quickly. I just do it slow for now. Are motor mounts hard to install? I'm asking this before even searching sorry.

Loving the car so far though, coming from a 1997 nissan altima, manual as well.

[JBR]

Originally Posted by Jawnskeel Just got a new speed3 and I also feel that clunkiness when switching from first to second quickly. I just do it slow for now. Are motor mounts hard to install?

The rear motor mount is very easy to install. Let me know if you need help.

[Easymk]

Ordered mine friday got it monday, installed it yesturday shifts feel alot nicer. Also i do feel the vibration more when taking off slowly in first if thats normal

[BrandonDrums]

Originally Posted by G26 Apparantly our engine shears the shit out of oil and mobil 1 doesn't hold up to well to it. I run the Shell Rotella, that or penzoil platinum works the best in this motor.

This is true for most small turbo engines. Mobil 1 just lacks the heat protection capabilities and anti-sheering properties that our little engines need. Same goes for Quaker State, Valvoline, Havoline and Wal-Mart brand oils.

If the oil seems really thin when it comes out after 3k miles then it's not really protecting your engine well.

I switched to Shell Rotella T and I will never use anything else. After one engine failure due to poor oiling (spun a rod bearing) I can totally justify being picky about oil. I used to think if I just kept it changed regularly it wouldn't matter. It does!

[Jawnskeel]

Originally Posted by jbarone The rear motor mount is very easy to install. Let me know if you need help.

I was trying to find a video or something online to see it being done. I have basic tools in my garage, but nothing major, and I've never really worked on my car. I've changed small things in my old car, but nothing as big as a motor mount.

[JBR]

Originally Posted by Jawnskeel I was trying to find a video or something online to see it being done. I have basic tools in my garage, but nothing major, and I've never really worked on my car. I've changed small things in my old car, but nothing as big as a motor mount.

Read this:
http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

[Easymk]

It took no effort at all fifteen minute job


j barone is the vibrating when taking off slowly

[Easymk]

Ok so i am getting wierd knocking noise when letting off the gass and engine sounds scratchy when ideling what could this be

[IRONBAR]

Welcome to the forum !!! yea i got my speed 3 like 2 months ago and after extensive testing and playing with the car def. would recommend the following mods in this order.

Rear motor mount, SRI+Turbo inlet+cobb AP where u go from there is up to u did my own custom exhaust and hear my car so made lil easier to shift. but hellyea dude get some miles on ur car to git the feel of it, i come from a mustang background so this is my first tuner/inline 4 very diff thats for sure but did like the mpg's hwy and it has decent power.

[Easymk]

I think theres something wrong with my rmm

[JBR]

What mount do you have and did you torque it properly?

[BlueDmnSpeed]

Rule of thumb for new cars is let it break in the first 500 to 1000 miles. As far as warranty. Most places don't void it if you put an aftermarket intake on it. At least I have never had a problem. Search on her for a thread that has a list of mod friendly dealers. You may have one near you depending on your location. Other than that like everyone said I'd start with the motor mounts and screw the turbo timer.

[urville]

READ THIS... LIKE FUCKING NOW... DO IT... NOW: (unless you already did)
INTRO TO YOUR MAZDASPEED

Whoa, I've never run into anything about CP-E having mount issues, thats going to change my decision I guess. Whats the lifespan on that urethane?

I'm at about 500-600 now and it had 100 some on it when I bought it. I always take it easy right before my destination and I've driven it spiritedly a bit during that first 600 but i did it cautiously and with respect for the car. Nothing too crazy, these motors arent made of butter and cheese but it wasnt built by downey jr in iron man either. It's just common sense in my opinion. You figure they have to compensate for people like civic guys clutch dropping at 4k with 10 miles on the car when they write that manual.

I think the advice of all over the rpm sphere is good, though i've never taken it above about 5100 rpms. Dealer said 3k first change but i agree, do a 1k change.

Haha, i have read so many posts about our clutch/tranny... listen, find a guy with an 8th gen civic and drive that around for a day or so. This clutch is a fucking dream compared to that notchy, rock filled, cock blocking piece of crap. Imagine your shifting a piece of rusty sheet metal into a hole filled with pebbles, shrapnel, broken glass, and lost hopes and dreams and thats pretty close to an Si tranny. That my favorite part of the Forum wars video is that jackasses misshift, that guys and his face at that moment should be on all their posters and commercials. /rant

Read that post above I linked and you've gottena lot of good advice already... oh and if you start modding, THIS is important too, should be required reading:
abilors tooning guide noobs

[Easymk]

80 duro just went back and tightened bolts didnt have the torque wrench but tightened pretty secure sound when iddiling went away, no i jut get a wierd knock when turning it on and i did let it break in im over a thousand already and put it on at 550

[Easymk]

And urville i read that thread i dont lime it hes so against bov when the turbosmart is perfectly fine

[urville]

I was gonna fully reply, but... good luck with all that man.

[ThizSpeed3]

i lurked all the post here
im full of jedi power now

[WAHBAM]

It is really IMPORTANT that you invest in a torque wrench & get that done before you have fun in this car.