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 Old 09-26-2013, 08:54 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by CornBread View Post
i get about 21-23 mostly city very little highway

with 1 square left i am at 280 miles and just at 312 when the last square dissapears
okay what rmp do you shift at and do you have any mods or tunes?
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 Old 09-26-2013, 08:55 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by Strom1 View Post
What should the real expectations be?

I'm currently getting between 18-19 miles per gallon. My driving is 75% short local trips and 25% highway. The car has about 1500 miles so far, with no mods.
How are you calculating your fuel usage. If you are using the cars calculations, I found it not to be too accurate. Try calculating it your self. I average about 23MPG on 80% highway driving. But if you are concerned about MPG you bought the wrong car buddy. Mod it, get a tune, make it go faster and compensate the shitty MPG with SPG(Smiles Per Gallon)
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 Old 09-26-2013, 10:35 AM   #43
 
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Stock I averaged about 24 mpg. After adding the intake and AP w/ Stage 1 OTS map, I experienced a drop in mpg to about 22 mpg. After 20k miles I cleaned the air filter and started getting 24 mpg again.

I do 60% hwy 40% street, shift around 3k and don't boost too often unless I'm trying to pass someone. I average 80mph on the freeway (avg highway speed in San Diego is 75+)
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 Old 09-26-2013, 12:11 PM   #44
 
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About 80 percent city, 20 percent highway, get around 20 average, minimal mods, no tune as of yet.
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 Old 09-26-2013, 12:51 PM   #45
 
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Its definitely how you treat the car more than anything such as going into boost and stuff like that...

Before school I got about 250 miles per tank, and now I get about 370 miles per tank with 70% being highway @ 80mph and 30% city
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 Old 09-26-2013, 12:52 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Strom1 View Post
Any suggestions ?
Accessport and change the WGDuty % down by .75

Mine didn't change from my AP to stage 1 at all. The Pu has a more picky fuel curve to try and combat the CDFP problems they have. When you get an AP check the Pressure of the CDFP.

I get anything from 200-350 in my Juan, driving with my hair on fire, or like a granny doesn't make much of a difference. Also the more methanol I inject usually the more range I get. So backwards from what it should be!

Mechanical tuning is using your foot's tune to drive the car. With a Stage1 map I use less of a pedal and usually as a side effect get more range. I only punch it when I need to, so having more power saved me money.
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 Old 09-26-2013, 11:54 PM   #47
 
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If im feeling boring ill skip gears (usually 1-3-5-6) and shift between 3-3.5K. That gets me 22-24 city. obviously... don't go heavy on the gas while doing this.
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 Old 09-29-2013, 12:40 AM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by Tadweezy View Post
okay what rmp do you shift at and do you have any mods or tunes?
i shift at 2500. have cobb SRI and cobb stage 1 tune.

i did do a maf cal

this last tank i got 296 miles when the last square went away. so that means about 2 gallons left out of 16. so if you figure it about 14 gallons and 296 miles 21.4 mpg average with some spirited driving

i always have the AC on here in texas. we will see how it goes in the winter with AC off
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 Old 09-29-2013, 03:51 AM   #49
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Shitty. And shittier.



But it moves the fuck out. So who gives a fuck. Daily driven.
If you really worry about mpg, carpool. You bought the wrong car for mpgs.
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 Old 09-29-2013, 07:20 AM   #50
 
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Yes definately wrong car if concerned with mpg..my daily driver old dodge truck on a good day gets 10 mpg..With the mazda its all about the smiles per gallon with me.
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 Old 09-29-2013, 04:41 PM   #51
 
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low 20's on avg. if im road tripping at 65-70, i can get to 30.
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 Old 09-30-2013, 06:40 AM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by CornBread View Post
i shift at 2500. have cobb SRI and cobb stage 1 tune.

i did do a maf cal

this last tank i got 296 miles when the last square went away. so that means about 2 gallons left out of 16. so if you figure it about 14 gallons and 296 miles 21.4 mpg average with some spirited driving

i always have the AC on here in texas. we will see how it goes in the winter with AC off
I so need to get a SRI and the AP! That's awesome that it makes that much of a differance
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 Old 09-30-2013, 11:05 PM   #53
 
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on a regular work week, i'll get anywhere from 22-24mpg with 50/50 driving

i get 27mpg when i trip to my parents place, about 240 miles.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 06:01 AM   #54
 
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I'm right in the same range as everyone else. Mostly city driving, 19.5-20 mpg per tank calculated by hand. DIC says 22.7, but that's bs. Opinions on mpg are all relative. Before the ms3 I was driving a heavily modded awd trailblazer SS and was lucky to get 12 mpg when babying it, easily dropped below 10 if not being careful. Now with the ms3 I'm happy as can be to be able to drive it however I want and still get 20ish mpg. Over on tbssowners.com people get so excited to get anything over 15mpg on a road trip that they post pics to prove it.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 06:14 AM   #55
 
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Before the ms3, i was driving a 99 civic dx. was getting no less than 30mpg, best getting 36mpg.

i'm pretty sure i could hit 30mpg if i drove to save gas, but that's no fun.

so honestly, yea i notice gas more but it could be way worse, and i like you're guys' saying, smiles per gallon. because i love driving this car.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 06:43 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Tadweezy View Post
I so need to get a SRI and the AP! That's awesome that it makes that much of a differance
I've got an MS6 (shorter gearing, AWD, and a lot more weight than the MS3), and I average about 22-24mpg with 80/20 city/hwy, hand-calculated, because 1) the MS6 doesn't have a built-in fuel-economy/range-to-empty calculator in the U.S., and 2) even if it did, those things are almost always hilariously inaccurate.

Stock the best I did was 27.5mpg highway for an entire tank of gas. Once I got an AP and put on an OTS Stage 1 v.106 91-octane tune, I regularly got in excess of 32mpg highway, and when I really, REALLY babied the car, I got 37.5mpg on one highway trip. Now I've got a bunch more bolt-ons and my fuel economy has fallen off a little bit because it's so much easier to drop into boost than it used to be. That being said, I can still average >32mpg highway and >22 city.

So...more than anything else that anyone has said, it's about how you drive the car. If you can keep it in low-load, high vacuum, and relatively low rpm ranges, then you'll see an improvement in your fuel economy.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 09:22 AM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post

So...more than anything else that anyone has said, it's about how you drive the car. If you can keep it in low-load, high vacuum, and relatively low rpm ranges, then you'll see an improvement in your fuel economy.
I normally do drive with low rpms but this pure 99% city driving with maybe 1 mile on highway a week if im lucky. it just eats my gas. I just got 159.8 miles on my last tank full
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 Old 10-01-2013, 09:30 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Tadweezy View Post
I normally do drive with low rpms but this pure 99% city driving with maybe 1 mile on highway a week if im lucky. it just eats my gas. I just got 159.8 miles on my last tank full
The problem is, fuel economy doesn't depend on low rpm, as much as it depends on low load. If you're asking the engine to "lug" the car along, then it's not at its most efficient. If you're only getting 160 miles/tank in your GenPu (15.9 gallon tank, if memory serves), then you're doing pretty horribly badly at keeping it in a low-load/high vacuum condition while driving.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 10:21 AM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
The problem is, fuel economy doesn't depend on low rpm, as much as it depends on low load. If you're asking the engine to "lug" the car along, then it's not at its most efficient. If you're only getting 160 miles/tank in your GenPu (15.9 gallon tank, if memory serves), then you're doing pretty horribly badly at keeping it in a low-load/high vacuum condition while driving.
By low load High vacuum what do you mean? I know staying out of boost is crucial. but I am sorry you just lost me.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 10:41 AM   #60
 
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Alot of good points here, big thing to remember is of course boost means more air which means more fuel. With a car that runs rich you know its gonna dump it in boost. Short shifting will help but not so much as to give you 30 mpg lol.

I'm about 25% city 75% high way and will average 24mpg and that's hitting boost every on and off ramp and any chance given.

Originally Posted by Tadweezy View Post
By low load High vacuum what do you mean? I know staying out of boost is crucial. but I am sorry you just lost me.
More or less don't lug the car around at say 1200 if you can down shift and stay in the power band but out of boost
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 Old 10-01-2013, 10:49 AM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by Lostmytune View Post
Alot of good points here, big thing to remember is of course boost means more air which means more fuel. With a car that runs rich you know its gonna dump it in boost. Short shifting will help but not so much as to give you 30 mpg lol.

I'm about 25% city 75% high way and will average 24mpg and that's hitting boost every on and off ramp and any chance given.


More or less don't lug the car around at say 1200 if you can down shift and stay in the power band but out of boost
Thanks I do that.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 12:39 PM   #62
 
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Mostly highway. Something like 80% highway speeds. Spirited driving. 28 + MPG. Idk how.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 02:12 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Tadweezy View Post
By low load High vacuum what do you mean? I know staying out of boost is crucial. but I am sorry you just lost me.
@Lostmytune; pretty much covered it. If you drive like there's an egg shell under your right foot, you'll significantly improve your gas mileage. Basically, you need to not accelerate hard or be in too high (or low) a gear for the speed you're going.

For example. If you're on a flat road at 40mph, you can probably be in 6th if you're going to maintain a steady speed. If you drop to 35mph and sustain that speed for a long time while staying in 6th, you'll be burning more gas because the engine is out of its efficiency range and will be trying to maintain speed with too little effective torque (because of the gear ratio). As a result, it'll try and increase torque by dumping more fuel into the mixture.

Likewise, if you're going up-hill at 40mph, you want to be in a lower gear than 6th because it's too tall a gear for the engine to efficiently use to pull the car up the hill, and it'll cost you more gas than 5th, or maybe even 4th.
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 Old 10-01-2013, 02:30 PM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
@Lostmytune; pretty much covered it. If you drive like there's an egg shell under your right foot, you'll significantly improve your gas mileage. Basically, you need to not accelerate hard or be in too high (or low) a gear for the speed you're going.

For example. If you're on a flat road at 40mph, you can probably be in 6th if you're going to maintain a steady speed. If you drop to 35mph and sustain that speed for a long time while staying in 6th, you'll be burning more gas because the engine is out of its efficiency range and will be trying to maintain speed with too little effective torque (because of the gear ratio). As a result, it'll try and increase torque by dumping more fuel into the mixture.

Likewise, if you're going up-hill at 40mph, you want to be in a lower gear than 6th because it's too tall a gear for the engine to efficiently use to pull the car up the hill, and it'll cost you more gas than 5th, or maybe even 4th.
Thanks makes sense. normally am in fifth doing 40 is on local streets. I will try staying in the power band with no boost for a tank full and see were I end up. should improve but idk by how much since I have a ton of stop and go. I usally just roll in neutral when I see people breaking or at a stop to prevent wasted gas idoling. ( let me know if that last bit makes sense or if I should idol then drive slow rolling to catch up)?
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 Old 10-01-2013, 03:37 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Tadweezy View Post
Thanks makes sense. normally am in fifth doing 40 is on local streets. I will try staying in the power band with no boost for a tank full and see were I end up. should improve but idk by how much since I have a ton of stop and go. I usally just roll in neutral when I see people breaking or at a stop to prevent wasted gas idoling. ( let me know if that last bit makes sense or if I should idol then drive slow rolling to catch up)?
When possible, you should coast in a relatively high gear without either slipping the car into neutral or pushing the clutch in. At idle, your engine uses fuel to keep the whole apparatus spinning. However, during in-gear, engine-only deceleration, the forward momentum of the car reverses the process and the wheels drive the engine. As a result, the car will cut fuel to the engine as a fuel-saving feature.

FYI, it's also "idle," not "idol." The latter is what you're supposed to pray to. :-)
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 Old 10-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
When possible, you should coast in a relatively high gear without either slipping the car into neutral or pushing the clutch in. At idle, your engine uses fuel to keep the whole apparatus spinning. However, during in-gear, engine-only deceleration, the forward momentum of the car reverses the process and the wheels drive the engine. As a result, the car will cut fuel to the engine as a fuel-saving feature.

FYI, it's also "idle," not "idol." The latter is what you're supposed to pray to. :-)
+1. Just do this. Lots of drivers like to clutch and neutral when coasting. Leave that sucker in gear not only for fuel economy but safety (in an emergency, no need to fumble for a gear)
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 Old 10-01-2013, 09:41 PM   #67
 
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I downshift every time if get the chance...fuck coasting and fuel economy


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 Old 10-01-2013, 10:30 PM   #68
 
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2011 MS3 - mods in SIG, Stratified tuned...60% highway, 40% city...30% driving like an asshole...70% driving like Mrs. Daisy... avg 24-26 MPG.

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Originally Posted by analbumcover View Post
+1. Just do this. Lots of drivers like to clutch and neutral when coasting. Leave that sucker in gear not only for fuel economy but safety (in an emergency, no need to fumble for a gear)
I do this as well...something u forgot to mention...engine braking helps brake life...if ur not using them as much...they r going to last longer lol

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 Old 10-02-2013, 10:34 AM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
When possible, you should coast in a relatively high gear without either slipping the car into neutral or pushing the clutch in. At idle, your engine uses fuel to keep the whole apparatus spinning. However, during in-gear, engine-only deceleration, the forward momentum of the car reverses the process and the wheels drive the engine. As a result, the car will cut fuel to the engine as a fuel-saving feature.

FYI, it's also "idle," not "idol." The latter is what you're supposed to pray to. :-)
Thanks Vansquish! Seems to be I am wasting more gas then I need to be wasting!

LOL didn't check my grammer or spelling. Maybe next time I will.
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 Old 10-02-2013, 07:20 PM   #70
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
When possible, you should coast in a relatively high gear without either slipping the car into neutral or pushing the clutch in. At idle, your engine uses fuel to keep the whole apparatus spinning. However, during in-gear, engine-only deceleration, the forward momentum of the car reverses the process and the wheels drive the engine. As a result, the car will cut fuel to the engine as a fuel-saving feature.

FYI, it's also "idle," not "idol." The latter is what you're supposed to pray to. :-)
Info like this makes me glad I came onto msf first before the other ones

thanks for that tip, i never really coast on high gears but will now
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 Old 10-11-2013, 07:12 PM   #71
 
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I get 21-23 ish with spirited driving in the city, around 24-26 city when not getting on it. (shifting at around 2k rpms and to accellerate I just slowly let of the clutch while the car pulls forward then start giving it gas), highway cruising @ 65 my little gauge reads 30-35 (45 if I'm going downhill lol). Mods are in the sig and I got a tune.
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 Old 10-13-2013, 07:44 PM   #72
 
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This weekend I drove a total of 290 miles. Most was on the highway but I did maybe 6 wot pulls that tank. Filled up today which took 12.4 gallons and 2 ticks left on the gas gauge. That nets 23mpg. I would guess 24-25 if I never got into it.

Note the info center said 27mpg which is a lie
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 Old 10-13-2013, 09:10 PM   #73
 
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Originally Posted by pwned View Post
This weekend I drove a total of 290 miles. Most was on the highway but I did maybe 6 wot pulls that tank. Filled up today which took 12.4 gallons and 2 ticks left on the gas gauge. That nets 23mpg. I would guess 24-25 if I never got into it.

Note the info center said 27mpg which is a lie
info center is there to make you feel better about all the WOT runs. That and gloat to passengers that you get 27 mpg @ 100 mph.
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 Old 10-14-2013, 08:03 PM   #74
 
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stock everything (new tires stock diameter)
35k miles
consistent 24 mpg (50/50 highway and city)
and i get on it at least twice a day.

track day mileage blows but hey thats part of it.

freeway road trips are great. 29 mpg this weekend!
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 Old 10-14-2013, 08:31 PM   #75
 
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I do way too much short city trips
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 Old 10-14-2013, 09:13 PM   #76
 
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I commute a total of 100 miles a day with maybe 65% highway. I average a hand calculated 30mpg. Lowest I've seen was 27mpg. Highest I've seen was 32mpg. Odometer just turned 40k miles on a 2012. Pretty much all bolt ons minus manifolds.
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 Old 10-19-2013, 03:35 AM   #77
 
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on my last tank of gas, i got 250 highway miles on just half a tank (this is also with me messing around with some M5, driving up and over the grapevine). when I got to empty, I had a hand-calculated 28mpg, the highest i've ever got so far with this car.
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 Old 10-19-2013, 07:08 AM   #78
 
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I get >1mpg At WOT
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