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__________________ Mazdaspeed 3 2010: CAI K&N Typhoon / Cobb TIH / Autotech HPFP internals / Corksport race pipe / Stage 1+ (K&N SRI Intake + TIH) / JBR Chrome-Molly RMM | |
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![]() | | #42 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2009 MGM MS3 - / HTP 3"/ COBB AP, FMIC, RMM, & DP / AT Internals / Manley Rods & Pistons / ARP studs & bolts / Koyorad radiator / DM OCCs / ACT Clutch / Bilstein B16 / CS Camber Plates, Camber Arms, & Seals / JBR .125 RSB, BSD, 51R Battery Box & Raider's AD / StopTech Brakes | |
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![]() | | #43 | ![]() |
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Also MS6 Maps CorkSport Mazdaspeed Accessport Maps
__________________ SOLD: 2009 Metro Gray Mica Mazdaspeed 3 - CorkSport Stage II SRI - CorkSport High Flow Downpipe -CorkSport TMIC - CorkSport Short Shift Plate - CorkSport Shifter Bushings - CorkSport Rear Motor Mount - CorkSport Passenger Side Motor Mount -Cobb Accessport - CorkSport HPFP Max Flow Fuel Pump Internals - CorkSport LED Kit 1992 Red Mazda Miata - Flyin Miata Swaybars, Hard Dog Hard Bar, Koni Yellow Shocks, Flying Miata Springs, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, E-Code headlights Next?: 2016 Mazda Mx5? 2017 Mazdaspeed 3? [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] | |
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![]() | | #44 | ![]() |
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stage 1 doesn't need a special map but stage 2 does, just because of the internals? How does that work? With more flow mods the pump is actually pushing more fuel than with less flow mods? Please get this one explained, I'm not following. The only reason I can think of for that is you're raising the demand pressure in which case you'll need to release a corksport relief valve very soon too. I'm genuinely curious, I've run autotechs for 30,000 miles and have never had an issue with pressure or flow being off because of flow mods. I mean, you'll need to do a maf cal of course but that should take care of any issue that arises and is just standard tuning practice on these cars anyway.
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." | |
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![]() | | #45 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't understand why all these brownies take the trouble of wasting $300+ on intake and test pipe but don't even bother to do fuel pump internals. Do they think that the fuel will just flow magically? It's like they are trying all they can to avoid it by saying "It was running fine until now".
__________________ Current Build: Liquid Silver Metallic Pu - JBR Shifter Bushings, Cobb AP, JBR Chome Molly JBR SSP, ProSport Premium Boost Gauge, 25% e85 Tune PTP HPFP Internals, CorkSport Intake/TIP, Cobb Sport Springs Sold: 2008.5 Black Mica GenWon - Fully Bolted |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to abiezerf For This Useful Post: | Koenig (12-10-2013) |
![]() | | #46 | ![]() |
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__________________ __________________ 2011 MazdaSpeed 3 RichTuned | Cobb SRI | Cobb TIH | SU TMIC | CS Racepipe | CS Downpipe | CS TMM Insert | KMD 2.1 | CPE Stage 2 RMM | ITV 22's | Sent using VTEC |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Lol at the shit storm that this created. Stop being a shit head OP.
__________________ Silver 2007 Speed3 GT Xona Rotor 6156, Port Injection w/ E85...Bunch of other stuff. I make some power. Titanium Grey Mazdaspeed6 GTX3071, DD |
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![]() | | #48 | ![]() |
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Wouldn't basic logic say, more power and more boost = more fuel required. So a stage II map that is not from us would not take full advantage of our fuel amounts and either give too much possibly, or too little? A stage I would not matter as much because even a stock pump should be able to keep up, and our pump won't be putting out less than that, and shouldn't be asked to give to much since it's just stage I. I'm no COBB MAP expert though so maybe I'm backwards. That just seems simple to me, but let me see if I can find more info.
__________________ SOLD: 2009 Metro Gray Mica Mazdaspeed 3 - CorkSport Stage II SRI - CorkSport High Flow Downpipe -CorkSport TMIC - CorkSport Short Shift Plate - CorkSport Shifter Bushings - CorkSport Rear Motor Mount - CorkSport Passenger Side Motor Mount -Cobb Accessport - CorkSport HPFP Max Flow Fuel Pump Internals - CorkSport LED Kit 1992 Red Mazda Miata - Flyin Miata Swaybars, Hard Dog Hard Bar, Koni Yellow Shocks, Flying Miata Springs, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, E-Code headlights Next?: 2016 Mazda Mx5? 2017 Mazdaspeed 3? [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] | |
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__________________ 2009 MGM MS3 - / HTP 3"/ COBB AP, FMIC, RMM, & DP / AT Internals / Manley Rods & Pistons / ARP studs & bolts / Koyorad radiator / DM OCCs / ACT Clutch / Bilstein B16 / CS Camber Plates, Camber Arms, & Seals / JBR .125 RSB, BSD, 51R Battery Box & Raider's AD / StopTech Brakes | |
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![]() | | #50 | ![]() |
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The Maps were designed specifically to match our parts with the our pump. Now the Stage I Cobb OTS maps are roughly 5% off from what we have seen, so there would be no huge benefit to creating our own, unless we had a LOT of interest, but seeing as the majority of people upgrading their HPFP plan on going stage II anyway, they should be fine. Likely, in the future, we will be releasing more maps, but probably not for awhile. It just isn't necessary.
__________________ SOLD: 2009 Metro Gray Mica Mazdaspeed 3 - CorkSport Stage II SRI - CorkSport High Flow Downpipe -CorkSport TMIC - CorkSport Short Shift Plate - CorkSport Shifter Bushings - CorkSport Rear Motor Mount - CorkSport Passenger Side Motor Mount -Cobb Accessport - CorkSport HPFP Max Flow Fuel Pump Internals - CorkSport LED Kit 1992 Red Mazda Miata - Flyin Miata Swaybars, Hard Dog Hard Bar, Koni Yellow Shocks, Flying Miata Springs, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, E-Code headlights Next?: 2016 Mazda Mx5? 2017 Mazdaspeed 3? [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] | ||
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![]() | | #51 | ![]() |
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@atvfreek; @rfinkle2; @ms3blackmica; @Lex; @RichieRichness; anyone done map comparisons COBB OTS to Corksport OTS? I'm genuinely curious about the differences here, I can't wrap my head around it and don't my my way around ATR well enough to figure this out quickly.
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to anavrinIV For This Useful Post: | RichieRichness (12-13-2013) |
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I am one of those people with no knowledge. All my life (I am 42) I have always stayed away from wrenching on my cars. Never really had one worth doing it too. I had friends however, who were big into 1/4 mile racing. They all owned Shelby Chargers, or Shelby Lancers etc...They added mod after mod, and more often then not, returned from the strip on the back of a flatbed with holes in their blocks. They would then just rebuild it and go again. There was talk of chips, intakes, and straight pipes. I think everyone in this category is under the impression that these are the go fast parts that will make their car the king of the road. We don't understand, or have never learned, that these mods can affect anything else in our cars. My first purchase was a SRI with TIP. Never thought about the consequences to a fuel pump. Didn't even know I had one. Then I started to read, and my world began to expand. I still know next to nothing, and still belong in the group of people with no knowledge. But thanks to this site, and to you guys who belong to the group of people who have knowledge, I am slowly beginning to understand how my car works. tl:dr Because some of us are ignorant, while others are smart
__________________ 2013 CWP MS3 with Tech package Cobb V3 // JBR 88RMM // Corksport SRI with TIP // Autotech Internals // UR Test Pipe | |
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![]() | | #53 | ![]() |
| Nishan ![]() Join Date: Apr 2012
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I'm not of any help here. The maps appear to be created using AccessTuner Pro which I cannot open. My guess would be reduced HPFP targets to keep the actual HPFP pressure stable and prevent pressure creep. Contact CorkSport to speak with the calibrator of the maps for more info.
__________________ www.tunedbynishan.com | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm glad my drunken ramble generated some cool discussion. The more info the better. Awaiting the release to see results Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk 2
__________________ : )-~ CS 3inch intake, CS FP internals, CS Test pipe, Forge V2, AP v3, JBR 88a RMM and mud flops |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Flash back to a stage 0 map and dont do any WOT's until you get fp internals.
__________________ 2013 MazdaSpeed 3 COBB AP/ COBB RMM JBR 3.5" Whale PeePee AutoTech HPFP Internals "I was recommended to port and polish the intake and exhaust. We found out they used abrasive material to do it like gritty sand. So I got with my friend that tunes Hondas and we decided to try it ourselves. We got a bag of sandblasting sand and hooked up into the intake and started the car. We had to hold the gas so it would run. He wanted to let the engine suck in the sand through the intake so it would port it out and then push it out the ehxaust so it would port the exhaust manifold. I was worried that it might cause problems but he figured it'd be OK as long as we didn't make boost and it get sucked in the turbo. After running the car and letting it suck in sand we got about half way through a 25 lb bag. The check engine light was on and the engine was bucking and kicking and sounding really weird. We stopped and hooked the car back up normal and took off the sand supply. We tried to start it again and it was really hard. Once started it couldn't idle and kept making weird noises. We took it out and drove it and it started to make scraping and knocking noises." |
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![]() | | #56 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Flash back to a stage 0 map and dont do any WOT's until you get fp internals. With the colder weather you will see more boost which requires more fuel. I was trying to run the JBR 3.5" intake and with the winter weather my fuel pressure was dropping into the 1500's so I flashed back to a stage 0 until i get my internals.
__________________ 2013 MazdaSpeed 3 COBB AP/ COBB RMM JBR 3.5" Whale PeePee AutoTech HPFP Internals "I was recommended to port and polish the intake and exhaust. We found out they used abrasive material to do it like gritty sand. So I got with my friend that tunes Hondas and we decided to try it ourselves. We got a bag of sandblasting sand and hooked up into the intake and started the car. We had to hold the gas so it would run. He wanted to let the engine suck in the sand through the intake so it would port it out and then push it out the ehxaust so it would port the exhaust manifold. I was worried that it might cause problems but he figured it'd be OK as long as we didn't make boost and it get sucked in the turbo. After running the car and letting it suck in sand we got about half way through a 25 lb bag. The check engine light was on and the engine was bucking and kicking and sounding really weird. We stopped and hooked the car back up normal and took off the sand supply. We tried to start it again and it was really hard. Once started it couldn't idle and kept making weird noises. We took it out and drove it and it started to make scraping and knocking noises." |
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