Another Blown Turbo...

[dcamp2]

Another Genpu with a blown turbo... Of course it happened while my buddy was borrowing the car to decide if he wanted to buy one. Ha.

The good news is Mazda is sending a new one, and the dealer didn't give me any trouble, so I should be set next week.

Just for reference: I had 19,600 miles, put mods on at 10,000 (SRI, AP, Internals, RMM) and generally drive like an asshole.


VID00007.AVI - YouTube

[manila]

Damn that sucks. Hope the install goes well for the new k04. I wonder if they will give you shit for the mods. Let me know if they make you take your mods off the car haha

[fortressofcomfort]

What am I looking at, a failed center assembly/bearing? Does this cause the shaft to wobble inside the turbo (putting the entire motor at risk?) what can cause this at such low mileage? Almost seems like defective and I wonder if it is isolated to certain years?

[DISIindahead]

Welcome to the club! lol

replaced with refurbished Ko4 OEM Mazda 3 Turbocharger 2007-2010 K0422-881 | eBay

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by fortressofcomfort What am I looking at, a failed center assembly/bearing? Does this cause the shaft to wobble inside the turbo (putting the entire motor at risk?) what can cause this at such low mileage? Almost seems like defective and I wonder if it is isolated to certain years?

you're looking at the white smoke, mean you're turbo has left this world

[dcamp2]

Originally Posted by fortressofcomfort What am I looking at, a failed center assembly/bearing? Does this cause the shaft to wobble inside the turbo (putting the entire motor at risk?) what can cause this at such low mileage? Almost seems like defective and I wonder if it is isolated to certain years?

I'm not sure... the service guy at the dealer just said the turbo was bad. I think just from the sounds and amount of smoke that a seal and bearing were gone, and possibly the blades hitting the case. It had a bad tinny sounding rattle/vibration.



Also I stocked out before taking it in.

[YZF-R6]

Originally Posted by DISIindahead Welcome to the club! lol replaced with refurbished Ko4 OEM Mazda 3 Turbocharger 2007-2010 K0422-881 | eBay

Holy fuck!!

[IshiKage]

Damn. PUs have turbo diarrhea

[chintastic]

this scares me smh...i got 13000 and have a catless downpipe sri tip cobb ap stage 2 and a turbosmart dual port ...and i def dont wanna stock out if my turbo goes soon

[JS + MS3]

just don't drive like a dumbass

[makjur]

Originally Posted by chintastic this scares me smh...

We can be scared together
Im stock and even more paranoid to do any mods now..

As for not driving like an ass, is aggressive driving really the reason, or shit manufacturing.

[IshiKage]

why are these turbos shitting the bed, i mean besides the fact its on a PU

[mswierse]

Originally Posted by dcamp2 Just for reference: I had 19,600 miles, put mods on at 10,000 (SRI, AP, Internals, RMM) and generally drive like an asshole. VID00007.AVI - YouTube

LOFL, love your honesty. So, do you mind if I ask about your maint intervals and you general practice of letting the engine get up to temp prior to boosting? Also if you really drive the shit out of it, do you just shut it off as soon as you stop or let it idle for a bit?

Just curious. I am kind of paranoid too, wondering if I should have bought a VW... Hope I made a good choice. I don't get on mine every time I drive it and I always let the engine get up to temp before getting into positive boost.

Originally Posted by DISIindahead Welcome to the club! lol replaced with refurbished Ko4 OEM Mazda 3 Turbocharger 2007-2010 K0422-881 | eBay

Was your car not under warranty anymore? How long since you've had the reman Turbo? Working good I assume?

[makjur]

Originally Posted by mswierse wondering if I should have bought a VW...

I had an 05 GTI 1.8t and gf had an 04 jetta 2.slow
both cars are gone now and I couldnt be happier

[DISIindahead]

Originally Posted by JS + MS3 just don't drive like a dumbass

That and don't run a Catless downpipe without a tune (i.e. AP, HT,)

Originally Posted by IshiKage why are these turbos shitting the bed, i mean besides the fact its on a PU

People just not doing the research. I learned the hard way but now that I know its good to pass it on so the next guy doesn't do it. I paid out of pocket for everything. Yes it was my fault but now I have a K04 that was built better and actually holds 2 psi more boost then my stock one. Not bad for $500 IMO.

Originally Posted by mswierse LOFL, love your honesty. So, do you mind if I ask about your maint intervals and you general practice of letting the engine get up to temp prior to boosting? Also if you really drive the shit out of it, do you just shut it off as soon as you stop or let it idle for a bit? Just curious. I am kind of paranoid too, wondering if I should have bought a VW... Hope I made a good choice. I don't get on mine every time I drive it and I always let the engine get up to temp before getting into positive boost. Was your car not under warranty anymore? How long since you've had the reman Turbo? Working good I assume?

Nope. A red flag came up at dealership for flashed ECU. Got a call saying "we can't cover it, come get your car"

Reman turbo has been on for 7000 miles and still going strong. It works great and I gotta thank XSTurbochargers for the great help and advice they gave me. Also the blown k04 is getting cleaned when i get off my lazy ass and sent in and ,in turn, i get $100. Can't complain.

[dcamp2]

Originally Posted by mswierse LOFL, love your honesty. So, do you mind if I ask about your maint intervals and you general practice of letting the engine get up to temp prior to boosting? Also if you really drive the shit out of it, do you just shut it off as soon as you stop or let it idle for a bit? Just curious. I am kind of paranoid too, wondering if I should have bought a VW... Hope I made a good choice. I don't get on mine every time I drive it and I always let the engine get up to temp before getting into positive boost.

I've done oil changes every 5000 miles (manual says 7500) and honestly that's it.

As for driving, I try and let it warm up before romping on it, and if I do drive really hard, I try to let it cool off by driving out of boost and taking it easy before I shut it down.



I hope this was a fluke thing, because when you build a car with the word 'speed' in the name, you know it's going to get worked.

Originally Posted by chintastic this scares me smh...i got 13000 and have a catless downpipe sri tip cobb ap stage 2 and a turbosmart dual port ...and i def dont wanna stock out if my turbo goes soon

Yeah, I was thinking of doing a DP and similar mods... Not so sure now.

[beachshoer]

Originally Posted by JS + MS3 just don't drive like a dumbass

^ This

I have just rolled over 80000 miles on my PU. And I haven't even put my internals in yet. (Im getting to it. Keep your panties ) I even autox it every month, sometimes twice a month. No issues what so ever. Like any other car do your research, maintain the hell out if it, and don't be a dumbass.

Yes. I said 80000 miles on a PU. suck it wons.

[taf0422]

Originally Posted by beachshoer ^ This I have just rolled over 80000 miles on my PU. And I haven't even put my internals in yet. (Im getting to it. Keep your panties ) I even autox it every month, sometimes twice a month. No issues what so ever. Like any other car do your research, maintain the hell out if it, and don't be a dumbass. Yes. I said 80000 miles on a PU. suck it wons.

Damn! Talk about a driver right there! My 07 just rolled 70k.

[JS + MS3]

80k miles on a Pu? wow..

[Jhornbrook]

[QUOTE=DISIindahead;1220787]That and don't run a Catless downpipe without a tune (i.e. AP, HT,)

Nope. A red flag came up at dealership for flashed ECU. Got a call saying "we can't cover it, come get your car"

When you took your car in did you set it back to the stock map or leave the tune loaded on the ecu? I'm just curious to see if a stock reflash is even useful when going back to the dealer.

[JS + MS3]

Why the fuck would someone not uninstall the tune when taking the car to the dealership? It literally takes a minute to do that, no?

[HARPER306]

probably for the same reason why ive seen so many pu posts with dp and no fp

because dumbasses

[DISIindahead]

Originally Posted by JS + MS3 Why the fuck would someone not uninstall the tune when taking the car to the dealership? It literally takes a minute to do that, no?

doesn't matter. The dealership can tell of any alterations that were made. Even if you uninstall the dealership can, and most will, send out the information on what was on the ECU history. They showed me everything the ECU has done and I even saw the first time the ECU was flashed when I first got the AP and was running Stage 1. The techs are not stupid.

Originally Posted by HARPER306 probably for the same reason why ive seen so many pu posts with dp and no fp because dumbasses

Thats why its a learning experience for people who have never worked with this platform before. I admit that i didnt do my research and this was the result of it.

[Scoobs]

When my K04 dies it will time to upgrade to GTX3071R. But before that I'm going the safe route: AP, FP internals, SRI/TIP, OCC, Race pipe, FMIC, Down Pipe + CBE. Why rush and kill the turbo early? I'm going with CS for the SRI/TIP, why pay more when I will have to upgrade when I go big.

[dcamp2]

Originally Posted by HARPER306 probably for the same reason why ive seen so many pu posts with dp and no fp because dumbasses

Do you think I'm a dumbass? Just running intake, ap and fp internals?

I don't think that should kill the turbo in 20,000 miles; regardless of how I drive.

[HARPER306]

^

no, you already show promise a seemingly select few pu owners do, as those are the 3 key ones IMO.

turbo should last way longer than 20,000 unless youre fully bolted and like e85. the turbo isnt bulletproof, but its robust enough to make decent power with quick spool with somewhat of a longevity, and once you reach its limits and pop it you can just put in a 3071 or whatever you fancy and you'll almost be good for that, as youd be fully bolted already. @phate is making BT owners think twice about the k04

[gbassrace]

Same thing for mine last summer @ 26kmi. The white smoke and everything. Only had an AP Stage 1 using Mobil 1 5W30. Have been told twice that the oil was the reason. Now running Redline 5W40. I reflashed to stock ECU and got the warranty replacement K04 installed by the dealer. They didn't say anything about the ECU. What a hassle though. Won't go into it. I have asked everyone I could about this fail and basically it was overspun, exceeding the efficiency and over heated it with bearing failure. I saw the turbo after and it had lots of shaft play but no blades missing. All I did was 3 - 3rd gear 3-6k rpm WOT pulls back to back timing myself and BAM........Now have stock ECU. The K04 is right at it's limit of CFM and power. Other guys have been lucky I think. Good Luck to you guys. I'm gonna go 2871 when ready. I might get another AP but will have it tuned to reduce boost big time above 5500rpm. No Fun!!! Def don't need the hassle again. Again, Good F'n Luck.....

[taf0422]

Originally Posted by gbassrace Same thing for mine last summer @ 26kmi. The white smoke and everything. Only had an AP Stage 1 using Mobil 1 5W30. Have been told twice that the oil was the reason. Now running Redline 5W40. I reflashed to stock ECU and got the warranty replacement K04 installed by the dealer. They didn't say anything about the ECU. What a hassle though. Won't go into it. I have asked everyone I could about this fail and basically it was overspun, exceeding the efficiency and over heated it with bearing failure. I saw the turbo after and it had lots of shaft play but no blades missing. All I did was 3 - 3rd gear 3-6k rpm WOT pulls back to back timing myself and BAM........Now have stock ECU. The K04 is right at it's limit of CFM and power. Other guys have been lucky I think. Good Luck to you guys. I'm gonna go 2871 when ready. I might get another AP but will have it tuned to reduce boost big time above 5500rpm. No Fun!!! Def don't need the hassle again. Again, Good F'n Luck.....

Why a 2871!? Just get a 3071. Doesnt hsve to be a gtx. Just get the gt series. It will be a better car for it.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Originally Posted by taf0422 Why a 2871!? Just get a 3071. Doesnt hsve to be a gtx. Just get the gt series. It will be a better car for it.

Dano is making around 400whp on his 2871 and you can get it for cheaper than a 3071... Shit, I hear some dumb ass is selling his 2871 for under $1000 in the for sale section!!!

And for the people freaking out about their turbos, niggah please. You are a select few, not that many people are having issues, even if they are making more power and even if they are catless. AND, you can replace it for like $200ish w a used one which is not hard to come by... Or spend a bit more on a used 2871 and never have to worry about it again.

[RaPiER]

Originally Posted by dcamp2 Do you think I'm a dumbass? Just running intake, ap and fp internals? I don't think that should kill the turbo in 20,000 miles; regardless of how I drive.

What boost were you running with your tune leading up to the failure?

[dcamp2]

Originally Posted by RaPiER What boost were you running with your tune leading up to the failure?

I was running the OTS stage 1 map that came with AP. I can't remember what the exact boost was, but you could find it on cobb's website.

[gbassrace]

The boost would have been Cobb's Stage 1 limit of around 18psi. Bt I wasn't hip to logging then and don't know real #'s. Of course they have written in same taper by 6000 rpm. That's when it let go.

Another answer: a 2871 will be plenty for 300whp and will give much better street low rpm torque. Just need a great K04 replacement that WON'T BLOW UP!!!

[fortressofcomfort]

Originally Posted by gbassrace The boost would have been Cobb's Stage 1 limit of around 18psi. Bt I wasn't hip to logging then and don't know real #'s. Of course they have written in same taper by 6000 rpm. That's when it let go. Another answer: a 2871 will be plenty for 300whp and will give much better street low rpm torque. Just need a great K04 replacement that WON'T BLOW UP!!!

According to Cobb's map notes, stage 1 with SRI, etc is set to 16psi +- 1.5psi... I get an occasional spike up to 18psi but it comes down right away. I think some spiking is inevitable with the way the ECU utilizes load targeting. For reference, stage 2 with the same hardware is 19psi tapering down to 18psi by the 6700rpm redline.

http://www.accessecu.com/cgi-bin/dow...BASE_07_12.pdf

It seems we talk about these maps sometimes as if they are static and never change. You'll read a story about someone blowing up on stage 1 but then we never question what map or firmware version they were running. Simply put, an early version of a given map may be dangerous compared to what is available now. I mean, as soon as you turn on the AccessPort it says something like Don't forget to connect to computer often to check for updates lol.

[2011speed]

Dont b scurrred

Sent from my left nut.

[gbassrace]

In June of 2011 I was running Stage 1 93oct with no other mods. I believe it was the MS3 AP v102. Anyway, from everyone I've talked to, the K04 is marginal in handling more rpm and more boost (15.5psi). I believe Cobb says boost is down to about 16psi @ 6500rpm and admits to running higher than OEM shaft speeds. Everyone take their chances until you get a real turbo ie: 2871, 3071, 3076. At least I wouldn't run Mobil 1 5W30, the Zinc and Phos is only @ 800ppm when new. I have had dudes tell me that's an issue and don't use it. Redline is @ 1200+ppm. Racing oils are @ 2500ppm. Take your chances, it ain't only me out there with new shitty K04's.

[Schmitty5]

So much noob in this thread...

Listen up... If you're turbo does this (white smoke, blown seal, blown whatever) - google dealerships around you. Call and ask to speak with the service manager. Ask if they are aftermarket friendly. Mazda techs/service people get paid when they work on cars so there's really no reason why they wouldn't want to work on your car. Just call around.

This happened to me and I'm basically fully bolted (no cbe) and I did not have to stock out. Got a brand new k04 after 21k miles under warranty.

Oh - and another thing, after running your car hard, let it sit idle for a minute after you park.

[cesaros]

Originally Posted by gbassrace I might get another AP but will have it tuned to reduce boost big time above 5500rpm.

isn't that what the factory does

[chintastic]

damn...i hate that its cold out and im blowing white smoke lol...but its not as bad as the video

[DISIindahead]

Originally Posted by Schmitty5 So much noob in this thread... Listen up... If you're turbo does this (white smoke, blown seal, blown whatever) - google dealerships around you. Call and ask to speak with the service manager. Ask if they are aftermarket friendly. Mazda techs/service people get paid when they work on cars so there's really no reason why they wouldn't want to work on your car. Just call around. This happened to me and I'm basically fully bolted (no cbe) and I did not have to stock out. Got a brand new k04 after 21k miles under warranty. Oh - and another thing, after running your car hard, let it sit idle for a minute after you park.

Some people don't have the time to do that, especially when our MS3s are our DD. And aftermarket friendly? All Mazda dealerships are not the same as yours. Dealerships here an intake at most..but if you go in fully bolted...well you better bring your knee pads with ya. With blown turbo most techs will run a diagnosis on the ECU to see where/what went wrong. Props to the guys who got replaced under warranty. Just have to have that one lazy tech who doesn't run the check on the ECU and send it in to Mazda.


Sent from my Etch a Sketch

[gbassrace]

+1