LOL Glad I wasnt the only one thinking that.

Not to beat a deadhorse, I can see what the favorite RMM's are here...

Just wondering if anyone has tried theose Corksport urethane inserts that work with the stock rmm...they are cheap $...wonder if they work.

No don't waste your money with those. They wear off eventually and will not do anything better than the stock RMM.

JBR 88duro dogbone or GTFO lol

I have had the Cork Sport RMM inserts > JBR 70d > JBR 80d > JBR 88d.

Inserts like adlpb mentioned do wear out, or at least did for me. Maybe I got used to it.
JBR 70 was great but not stiff enough for launching (as mentioned in description)
JBR 80d was great all around IMO. Vibrations were VERY minimal once broken in, but I knew I was going to be running my car pretty hard so figured I might as well get the stiffest possible.

When I first got the 88d It seemed like it was too harsh at first, after a few hundred miles I barely notice any vibrations. Don't get me wrong its nothing like stock, but the car feels great even for a DD lugging around gf and kids.

I'll be selling my JBR 80d if anyone is interested.

Pm your price on the 80.

tapabiznatch

i wonder how much 80 PMM and 80 TMM will increase vibes in addition to an 80 RMM.

Pass mount is a HUGE change because the OEM pass mount is fluid dampened

Me thinks I might play it safe and stick with the 70s

Saw I wouldn't waste the money on a 70, go with an 80 at bare minimum. Works great and almost no vibes after broken in.

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I think I'm gonna pick up one of the new CP-E Stage 2 mounts... It's hard to argue that it isn't a somewhat superior design.

My 70D pmm works great. Someone had just pmed me asking, because he had the 80D PMM and his interior rattled like crazy. Mine doesn't rattle at all, yet they are still much stiffer than stock.

Plus a 70D TMM will complement them nicely.

I have now had the CPE 75duro for about a week now. It is amazing and vibration is almost gone. I love it! Amazing response!

maybe after he just installed it... lol but mine doesnt rattle like crazy at all, just needs to be broken in. I know a few people who had gotten 70's and switched to either 80's or 88's because the 70's still wasnt enough..

I like my 80 and can honestly say i wouldnt want to go with a 70. When i get the other 2 mounts i will probably go with 80 for them as well.

There aren't a whole lot of cases that I've seen where someone has gone with a stiffer mount and wished they hadn't. I bet if you're fine with 80, you'd be fine with 88. I went from stock straight to 88 and would never go with a lesser one now.

Looks interesting, but it seems to be a solution in search of a problem. AFAIK, the dogbone mounts (TRZ or JBR) are more than sufficient. But with the CP-E you get two-piece billet shininess I guess.

whats funny is the first MS3 to get 11s had all stock mounts, only refilling the rmm. He also has a shit load of launches on those mounts

Not really...

All of the aftermarket rear mount failures I've seen (including my CP-E 60a failure from a supposed "bad batch" of EPDM) have been from the "twisting" forces that are all but eliminated at the bushing with the new design. CP-E's new mount makes sure that the bushing is only really stressed on one axis instead of two simultaneously.

So your trying to refute my statement with anecdotal evidence of a non-dogbone mount failing? :33:

The dogbone style mounts have a much tighter bushing than the billet style(ie your mount). I may be wrong about the need for a better mount, but your post does absolutely nothing to demonstrate that.

Image A - Billet style
Image B - Dogbone style

Dogbone mounts are subject to the same torsional forces that "non-dogbone" mounts are (the bushings are located in the same place/axis), so I'm not quite sure what you're getting at. :confused:

Both of the mounts pictured in your post are inferior to the new CP-E "Stage 2" mount for the same reason.

Should of gone with tourqe solution I love it great quality and vibes aren't bad!

This vv

I don't believe that the dogbone mounts provide the optimal balance between stiffness and "harshness", for lack of a better term.

They might not wear out as quickly as the larger-bushing type mounts due to their smaller bushing design, but they vibrate the ever-loving shit out of the car compared to a CP-E EPDM mount.

If CP-E can build a mount that is as stable as a dogbone mount, more durable (you still can't argue that there aren't multiple axes of force moving through the bushing at once on a dogbone) or even as durable as a dogbone mount, but with a NVH profile like that of their 75a conventional RMM, then I don't know why one wouldn't consider it worth producing.

If this post was a year in the past, majority would have been touting the cp-e mount (before the price increase).

I bought a cp-e for that very reason.


I have liked the cp-e just fine...although my only frame of reference is the stock mount, so.....


Either way, it's going to be better than the oem mount.

I'm still surprised there isn't any flaming in this thread yet. It's kinda like which BOV is better, or which CAI/SRI is better

JBR 88 RMM all the way. all the others are wanta be. Get all the JBR mounts!!!!!!!!!

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I'm alright with that argument. I just have never heard/read about any failures of the dogbones. So if they're strong enough, I can deal with the vibrations and spend the extra 100 bucks on hookers and blow. :yup:

The vibs go down on the JBR 88RMM a lot when broken in. Al lest everyone told me that. So maned up and purchased on. Installing it this weekend.

I don't agree. (This is constructive not bashing)

I beleive that introducing another larger bushing in to the equation is a recipe for potential failure. The stock RMM perch has a very solid bushing and I've never seen one fail. I see no reason to add to the risk. The failures of the billet style rear motor mounts are due to either something wrong with the bushing material, which tend to get worked out quickly or the durometer choice was made based on vibration and not application. (I'm gonna launch my street billet at the track 200 times with all side stock mounts) (Ooops I broke it must be the vendors crappy mount.)

My approach to motor mounts has been make them stronger than they need to be and keep the design simple. Appears to be working.

I can not speak for the TRZ but, the JBR dogbone mount, after break in vibes no more then the 80 billet mount. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference in a blind taste test. You'd be able tell at the track though.

Jamie

No offense, but the "billet style" motor mounts (with the exception of the CP-E's EPDM mounts) and the dogbone mounts ALL vibrate more than I'd prefer on my street-driven, daily-driven car. Of course, this is a personal preference, and I understand that.

If this new CP-E mount can provide a better mounting solution for my needs, that's all I really care about and all the justification it needs to exist. ;)

Moving the bushing from a plane where it is twisted "off axis" to a plane where it is merely pushed/pulled on is not a "recipe for failure" as far as I can see...

The bigger the bushing the easier to tear. I had a billet cp-e and upgraded to JBR billet and it was much better. Now I'm going to the JBR 88 dog bone. Liked Jamie told me in his TMM thread. You can't have your cake and eat it too. If you want less vibs then expect it to break. Its a strenght thing.

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If re-designing the bushing and moving it to a location that puts it under less stress can get me closer to having cake as well as eating it, then it's worth the effort to me. ;)

The bushing in the Stage 2 mount appears that it might be smaller than the bushings in nearly every "billet-style" mount (at least in diameter, though the thickness appears to be more substantial, at least where the bolt goes through), and is subject to a completely different vector paradigm than the bushings in conventional mounts. I just don't see how you can all be so sure that it's a "solution in search of a problem" when it at the very least is theoretically a better design that lends itself to increased longevity/consistency of performance.

stang9779 wrote:

i reasoned it the same way.

dealing with 500 miles of harsh vibrations is worth it if i get 100,000 miles of better driving.

haven't received it in the mail yet but i'm looking forward to installing it and seeing how much of this "it rattled the fillings out of my teeth" is actually true.

It isn't. I didn't even find the vibrations that bad right after installing it. I actually found myself wanting more.

Okay, I like to tinker and play with my cars but never did anything with MMs before. i have had M&M's many times (prefer the peanut)...but that's for a different day.

I've made my decision to to the JBR 88 RMM and i will order it soon from somewhere...

But my questions is, there are two other MM, and TMM (assuming Top MM, and the other is PMM? passenger? over by the serpentine belt?) Is there any reason to replace those? any benefit?

Im exited to get rid of that gooey shift feeling! i want to put a glass of water in my cup holder and hope for the Jurassic park ripple effect at idle!!!!:haha:

I don't have a "dog" in the fight yet.... but generally speaking, my experience with most projects has been that simpler is better.

My thoughts are that if your built to the point that your breaking dogbones, and looking for an engineered solution that "won't break", the forces that broke the dogbone are simply being transferred to some other part of the car. Something eventually breaks... in my mind I'd like that to be the cheapest, easiest to replace part it can be.

That's just my ignorant nickels worth on the subject.....

Carry on.

I was also thinking of going this route cpe stage 2 ..have you bought and installed it?? Lmk I'm interested in some reviews

I just pulled the trigger on one yesterday. Probably won't have it installed for a week or two at the earliest...

If anyone's interested in my (and another's) first impression of the new CP-e "Stage 2" mount:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...7/#post1173579

I have the SURE RMM and it works great. Vibes are fine and go away not too long after install. I know the OP already bought his, but figured I would post my experience with the SURE one. Very solid piece!