big jolt in vehicle
 

G'day all,

Apologies if this has been addressed somewhere and I missed it. This is my fist time on. I've got a 2013 speed3 with about 4000 miles on it. Just finished a Cobb Stage 3 (intercooler to tail pipes). Knew nothing about this stuff before I started 2 weeks ago. It tested my patience. Downpipe was a qui##. Anyway, I got through the break-in period on the new internals (100 miles at under 3500rpm) and came onto it. All good the first few pushes but then the whole car lurched like it was passing a f###ing football through the exhaust. Up till then, it was working as usual, smooth idle and acceleration ... nothing out of the ordinary. Still trying to figure out the CobbAP but no warnings or anything showed up. I'm new to this but did a fair bit of reading on the forums before sailing into it. Didn't want to pester anyone about issues I could figure out on my own. Anybody have any thoughts on what might have caused that jolt? I haven't come on to it hard since and once again all is going smoothly but that jolt has made me a little hestitant. Thanks in advance.

B

Welcome, Did you read about HPFP internals? Or SWAS?

I bet you got fuel cut after exceeding the boost limit in your tune.

Sorry for being off-topic, but I'm curious, when did you get your speed3?

Thanks for the quick replies
 

In response to the first guys who got back to me on this ... Got the car last fall and it sat in the garage through the winter. Yes, I read about the hpfp but that doesn't mean I didn't miss something. From what I read, it looked as though if there were no problems at idle and during regular driving during break-in, it should be good. I have no sputtering or hesitation and the idle seems fine ... drops to about 800 and doesn't miss a beat. I don't know about the fuel cut out. I didn't take it above high 5's or maybe 6000rpm and to tell the truth couldn't say what the boost was doing at the time ... too busy enjoying the sound and feel. I'll connect the AP and figure out how to start logging so I can look back and see what's what. Thanks all.

Yes, catch the event in a datalog and it will be easy to sort out.

We need logs god damnit! Lol

Seriously logs to help diagnose.

Also your intercooler shouldn't be connected to your tailpipes. :p


Murica'

@ Frenchy re "intercooler to tail pipes" ... it's a new approach I'm working on ... it'll be all the rage soon enough :)

I just started it up with the AP connected and it showed two active codes

1. PCM (no description available)
2. PO234 engine overboost condition

I'm using the Cobb OTS map for a Stage 3 (91 Octane)

Any thoughts?

No codes showed on the vehicle yesterday when it went kablooey, just on the AP today when I went in to see if there were any. Thanks in advance for any direction you can offer.

B

Already stated above. With all that crap you just put on, you're hitting overboost condition which led to fuel cut. Post logs as other have said to confirm. Probably need to lower some WGDC in ATR.

http://i.imgur.com/KLKCA9g.png:hump:

If you over boosted like what you said was in the ecu it will cause what will feel like a jolt... It's fuel cut to not break shit. You need logs/a proper tune

i also assume overboost, probably because of your exhaust/downpipe.

Exactly which map are you running while having that problem?
(exact name please, should be something like Stage2+SF+TIH+IC 93)

Thanks guys.

From the Cobb OTS maps I've selected the Stage 3 - 91 octane. It incorporated all the add-ons that used to be referred to as a Stage 2 + intercooler + whatever + whatever else.

I gathered from the errors that it was an overboost issue but wasn't sure of the potential for damage this would represent, if I kept running it without first addressing the cause (newb mentality - I know - I can't help it). When you say I need to provide logs, what sort of a run should I be looking at ... WOT ... or something a little tamer ... how many and for what duration. I'm guessing that I simply need to recreate the situation that caused the "jolt".

You guys taking the time to assist is much appreciated. As old hat as this is to you, to a newb it is a little intimidating and that's putting it mildly.

B

A WOT run, 4th gear 2900rpm to close to red line. But the answer is up there. You need a tune.

If you want some peace of mind quickly get a OTS plus from stratified or freek. Those guys can give you a solid base map to run if you don't want a full tune


Murica'

It's been said a few time already but it's overboost. The exact same thing happened to me after I installed a Cobb DP + Cobb CBE.


It's time for an etune.

As always, many thanks to those who responded.

OK, so I see a tune in my near future. I was going to go Freektune but there's a guy (J.D. Racing) a lot closer to home with a good rep. He had one of the first 10 sec. imports in Eastern Canada and from what I hear, he's solid. I'm just above Maine, along the coast and as they say, "pickin's are slim" around here. If he's as good as his rep, I lucked out in that he's just up the road.

That said, I'll call Cobb support first to see what they have to offer as I've tossed a fair bit of coin their way. They have stated from the get-go that once the parts were on, an OTS map would suffice. Who knows, maybe they still have a trick or two up their sleeves.

Thanks again,

B

Please just get a freek tune. There are so many so called local experts who end up blowing up cars. Stick with the people that know the platform. Plus the guys at stratified and freek are awesome people who will do everything to get your car running perfect.


Murica'

@ Frenchy ... You convinced me. I just sent off an e-mail to Justin. Time to go faster. Thanks

B

Thanks for not being an askhole.

Holy F###
 

Just put 40 miles on the 1st Freektune map and came aboard it hard ... Jes#s H. Chr#st pulls real nice! As a follow-up to my earlier dilemma, I had a leak that was causing the overboost that resulted in fuel cut-off. On Friday, I blew the passenger side pipe (where the leak was), right off the intercooler ... 100 yards from the dealership. The tow home would have been about as much as it was to have them re-attach it. Thanks again to all who chimed in to offer help.

B