Black oil?
 

Hey everyone, I'm about 300 miles over my recommended oil change, i'm gonna take it in today or tomorrow, but i checked my oil yesterday and its pretty dark basically black, and it smells a bit like gas, i searched and couldn't find anything, but is this anything to be worried about?

yup, mine was the same. It means the oil is doing its job and "catching" the comtaminates. I would recommend EGR delete and oil catch can reduce crap going into the engine.

thanks for the quick response, i'll get those done ASAP!

Also, change your own oil!

It's super easy on our cars.

i know changing the oil myself would be easier and cheaper, i used to do it on my jeep, but i wanna get it done at the dealership so it stays in the system until my warranty is out

Fair enough.

You know you don't really have to do that. If you change the oil at a non-dealership location (ie. FAILstone, jiffy lube, etc) keep your receipt. If you do the oil change yourself, keep the receipt from the store for the oil/filters, and note your mileage on each change. Unless the fine print SPECIFICALLY asks you to make every single oil change at a Mazda dealership, you should be fine.

I concur,plus use a K&N HP-1002, and Penzoil Plat,Ultra//Rotela//Royal Perp

Also dealership has been known not to put in synthetic

If you don't want to spend the $$ on K&N, Purolator PureONE is a great filter.

Also, Screw Royal Purple. They suck.

With the $$ you save not going to the dealership spend a little extra on good stuff. Also Walmart has cheap $$ on the oil but no k&n filters.

Rotella or penzoil platinum/ultra are the only two oils you should be using.
Maybe amsoil diesel synthetic.
Nothing else really stands up to fuel dilution like those.

Castrol syntec 5-40 does good also, never had it tested but it has never smelt like gas either

My Rotella smells like gas after 500 kms. Not smelling like gas and being resistant to shearing aren't one in the same.

Oil turning black is normal. I'd definitely recommend the Rotella T6 5w40, supposed to be great in our cars.

Took 6 quarts of Purple and a filter to the dealership, they changed it for me in 20 minutes, charged me $10, and I got a receipt just in case I ever walk into any warranty issues,

Cant get better than that, Im doing that until my warranty runs out, then I'm doing it myself.

Well, you could have done better by not putting purple in there. Shit doesn't work nearly as good as the others mentioned here and costs twice as much. Check the UOA sticky. Many brands have been tested several times over.

As for warranty shit, I've already had a motor replaced under warranty and I did all my own maintenance. All they wanted was faxed copies of all my receipts. If the mileage adds up, no problem.

Yeah I started second guessing the Purp(haha :439:) after putting it in,

going with Penzoil next time.

Don't spend too much time worrying about it. It isn't going to torpedo your motor or anything. May want to consider swapping it out at 3000 miles rather than 5000, though.

Yeah, always going for 3,000

I don't mind spending a couple extra bucks to be sure, especially with this SoFLA weather.

the oil will turn black even after 500 miles on fresh oil

^^This.

Try to keep in mind that our cars dump carbon soot by the truckloads. You have to assume that some of that is going to work its way into the oil.

If you read the OP, he is 300 miles PAST his OCI. He doesn't only have 300 miles on the oil.

Did exactly the same thing yesterday, except I only took 5 quarts and had to buy 1 extra quart from them. Was charged $13 for the 6th quart of oil and labor.

thanks for all the responses, i think i'll do what you guys said and bring my oil to them to change it...there was nothing wrong, i just over thought it haha

You are a fuktard. Is this really the first time you have seen used oil?

thanks for the help assfuck....i've never seen oil that dark, especially when it's only been in the engine for 3k miles...i used to go 6k miles on my jeep and the oil was nowhere near as dark, so fuck off

Sometimes wish my dealer wasn't 200 miles away so I knew I wouldn't have to fight it if/when I have issues lol

I use Moblie1 oil and filter. Changed oil every 3k miles since I bought the car.(has 14,7xx miles on it now) They wanted to put Quaker state conventional in my car free for a year at the stealship. I siad no way. They haven't seen my car since it left the lot.

The oil for Pennzoil Platinum becomes better each time you use it. It has for me now on 3 changes.

Also use k&n filters!!! but also this is speaking from a early 2006 Speed6 point of view! Come feel my clutch, its like lead. Are engines may differ somewhat though

My oil was black and burnt last change (royal purple) so had to bring back the km's between changes, also looking to put in oil cooler to help prevent it cooking so quick.

Mobil1 is shit for our cars by the way.
I can explain it if you'd like, or you can trust me and everyone else that knows that.

I'll bite...so why?

I'm interested too?

It breaks down pretty quickly, based on results from when people send it to be analyzed.

Glad to heard every 3000 miles you change it, OP. We have done it that frequently too on both our 86K miles CX-7 and 71K miles MS3. Always looks like death, smells of gas. Yay for DISI.

Mobil1 has almost no resistance to oil sheering and fuel dilution.
Both huge factors for protection.
With the high cylinder pressures of a boosted application, combined with high pressure direct injection, you need both.
By the time your Mobil1 hits 1000 miles, the 5w30 you put in is probably closer closer to w15.

thats crazy, I can't believe it breaks down that fast. Hhmm might change over to PP.

We should be using a high grade diesel oil.
I'm using Rotella t6. It's diesel rated.

If you want a good oil I would look into anything with high zinc, phospherous. In my 99 Gst i run Valvoline VR1 racing oil. $5.50 a quart. 1000 ppm zinc and phonspherous. Great guard against oil shearing. My girls Speed im using Brad Penn 10w30 right now. It actually has the highest zinc/phoshperous count ive seen.

Forced performance(turbochargers) is what I use for oil selection. Seriously you cant take what the manufacturer states to use on a stock car and apply that to a modified vehicle making 100-150 more HP. Most oils these day are dilluted down so much for oil emmisions its basically water. So oil selection is essential for a highly modified car. If your stock then guess what? You really cant choose a bad name brand oil as long as its the correct viscosity.

Diesel oil huh? Why? are you making super mad tyte 500 whp?> with basic mods the factory oil specifications should be fine. You are working your oil pump pretty hard if your putting in 20w50. Plus cold starts will be hard on the engine due to the thickness of the oil.

shell Rotella T6 or Penzoil Plat, those are the 2 best oils for this car. I run the shell.