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Nevermind the tech that is getting like 1/2 to 1/3 the hours for doing the job under warranty. You're mostly fucking him while decent paying jobs go to other people. I put a trans in the same neon 3 times in a month. Lost reverse. When it first came in I told the service writer he was probably neutral bombing it because thats how my friend lost reverse in his Dodge 600 with the same 3 speed trans. 2 hours pay later it was changed. Week or so later it was back. Lost reverse again. 2 hours pay later out the door it went. 3rd time the field rep said I needed to tear the trans down so he could see what was happening. When the field rep got there I verbally took his fucking head off and shit down his throat. Point of the story is how would you like it if someone was fucking with your paycheck just so they could play? Rant over. |
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Eric the car guy has a great channel where he just talks about the automotive industry. Here's a video where he explains the differences between being paid hourly vs flat-rate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qa35NYGbmmk |
All dealerships I worked at any tech good enough to put a motor in was flat rate. They pay less hours for the same work under warranty. That neon trans was like 5.5 hours customer paying, 2 hours Chrysler paying. Don't quote me on the customer rate but I dam well remember what I got paid under warranty for it. |
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They literally Fuck everyone trying to make a few more pennies per share. |
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Just to help clear the air on the key cycle counter deal. What @Vansquish; is talking about is a flash counter, it's different than a key cycle counter. Yes, it does exist. My neighbor is the only owner of a 2014 wrx and spun a rod bearing at 20k. He had an AP, intake, downpipe on the car. He told the dealership he didn't have any tuner and he stocked the car out. Dealership got corporate tech. They checked the flash counter and found out it had been flashed. They called him back and he fessed up. Dealership covered half the cost on the replacement engine still. There is a way for them to check the flash counter, the only way around it would be if you bought the car used and you could blame it on a previous owner. BUT, that's a pretty slimy thing to do. I know you've already started down the road to building your engine so thanks for not being a faggot. Honestly with such a set up you're only hurting yourself by restraining your turbo to the capacity of what the stock engine can hold. |
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AMEN to that! |
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I had to replace an HVAC blend door in an explorer at an independent shop. 1st time I did it was the last time I did one. Guys at ford were doing a couple a week. Dealers aren't really screwing their techs. The dealer only gets paid the low warranty rate from the manufacturer. Shit rolls downhill. They would rather have a good tech doing cash work making them more money too. That blown motor being on the lift for a day or two when the dealer could have had 20 hours cash work go through the shop. That's the dealer's cost of a franchise. |
It's just one giant Fuck fest, regardless if you're the customer, dealer, or manufacturer. Just make sure you're on the winning end. |
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That's a Subaru. Can anyone state factually that something similar exists on our cars? |
My 2 cents here. Yes the IDS ford/mazda scan tool can see a "flash counter" on every control module. They in no way can say that it was you, or that it was for an aftermarket tune. Any dealership would love for you to bring in a COMPLETELY stocked out car so they can justify covering it under warranty. It gives them business and money. You better start collecting your oil records for every single oil change. Play it dumb and say it just blew up driving home from work and your golden. |
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Bad knock, clunk at blimps of throttle none at idle I'm assuming a rod bearing doing a partial tear down tonight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Broken rmm Perhaps? |
I'll check that but started immediately after a 4th gear log, partial throttle clunks bad, no throttle goes away Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Bent rod, maybe not a spun bearing. |
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I am not even starting the car it's parked I'm gonna tear into it, it sounds like rod slap on crank I may be wrong but according to sound clips and symptoms that's what I think it is Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Doing that tonight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Damn @hatchedspeed3; you are wanting to diagnose this shit, huh? |
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In all seriousness, I wish I wouldve had this much input on my motor when I blew. Just trying to be a good NATOR lol. @WetzMS3; did @xfeejayx; ever extend my wedding invitation to you??? banana hammocks encouraged :banana: |
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For what its worth you may want to video tape the oil draining if you do ever want to attempt a warranty. If it shows a good level then at least you have some proof it wasn't low on oil. I blew up a car under warranty and the dealership said I was out of oil despite it being changed about 2 weeks prior with receipt. I asked them to show me they said they couldn't because it was thrown out. I contacted my lawyer and requested proof that my oil level was low (they said it was my fault because I should check my oil every day before I start my car lmao) and they quickly changed tune. So document the amount that comes out so you have some proof. Bringing the car in empty on oil is def grounds for dismissal |
@WetzMS3; fuck you for making read through this AIDS infested thread. OP, put it back to bone stock, uninstall AP, and take it in. The worst that can happen is they say fuck you. Best case, you get some help. /thread for fuck's sake. Side note: If anyone asks you about the ECU state, say that after the failure, you disconnected the battery to see if that would help. There is no flash counter, however, everything will be in a not-ready state, and it will be obvious the ECU was recently reset. Play dumb and go with the battery excuse. |
good idea @speedfreak44; @WetzMS3; even us MSF fags can get married down here. All jokes aside, july 30th 2016 Marble Falls, Tx. You +1 are welcome and on our guest list. now slap @xfeejayx; for not telling you lol. Quote:
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@SofaKingAwesome; my bad dude, forgot to tell you. you plus the misses will be receieving invites. maybe thats why hes grumpy?? lol |
This thread is already f'd, so might as well. @hatchedspeed3;, Wetz has written me off for the month. Been stumbling around since I got back, and my brain has been f'd the past couple weeks. I probably would have remembered in a couple weeks and told him. We'll show up with bolt on fart cans. You get a 6 liter solute out of pop bottle exhausts. |
The worst part about that was the car had a drop in K and N filter and that is what they tried to say voided my warranty and caused excess oil consumption. Just to clarify the dealership was an Ed Morse one. NOBODY buy from these scumbags ever. They do own mazda dealerships fyi. In the end they ended up paying me $4,500 and covering my motor work but they used a used motor for replacement. They also were too stupid to report the work they did so under carfax it said minor motor work lol. I traded that car in within a month and got full value. In my opinion I wouldn't even bother bringing the car in. Also as far as the key cycle counting is concerned I quickly did some google searching, I couldn't find what I originally read but ford admitted in tsb 11-7-7 that they can only see the ecu history was reset and for the techs to inspect the motor for signs of modifications or history of mods. These dealerships are cracking down on this stuff so unless your power window stopped working warranties are basically useless. |
try fucking the dealer, get caught good luck ever servicing your car at a Mazda dealer ever again. There are these things called computers with internet, they make notes on file attached to your vin internally and anywhere you go they will see it. get away with it then good job. Just know, once they find out you modified it, all the dealers will be aware of it. |
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