It'd be bad if you didn't......

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d8b24cb65f.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d809d8b562.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...ca90f50ddc.jpg cylinder 3 spun rod bearing, off to machine shop this week


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Just an update http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...fcf64b1e0e.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d684dad760.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d5152739dc.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...9f6a3ee8db.jpg final disassembly tonight and off to machine shop tomorrow


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Not true at all. If its worth it and if were super dead yea but the tech is the one getting screwed

Notice how he said "dealer" ;)

Sarah at Tustin Mazda is a boss! she is so nice I talk to her all the time :)

Best Mazda dealership I know of!

I can't help but get mildly aroused when I read your screen name.

Seriously....



um...what'cha wearing?

Lol everyone thinks it is dirty. Its the process of a four stroke engine. Suck in, Compress, blow up, blow out.

I am wearing a collared t-shirt and blank pants with some loafers. Pretty sexy huh? hahah
Good shit!

Seconded.

i'm sure she's great, but she looks menopausal.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...b0dfebdb84.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...e7d36a16aa.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...37aad9dc6d.jpg going to get crank mic'd and inspected and then should only be a polish and a home on block and we're ready to build


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I bought my car there. Sales people were nice and no-bs. Accepted my reasonable counter-offer without pushing back.

wow, this went from looking like Slim Shady to what might become another built block... nice.

Parts ordered:
Cp Pistons 88mm
Manley h beam rods
King coated bearings
Act street clutch kit- streetlight flywheel
Arp l19 head studs
Arp main studs
Defi oil pressure gauge
Balance shaft delete
Stage 3 Rebuild kit
Valve seals

Waiting for some stuff to come in then to machine shop for work, crank was mic'd by my buddy and is in good condition, slight wear on cylinder 2 rod bearing so little grind and polish should be good to go




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Keep your balance shaft.... if you want to cut rotational weight go after the flywheel (as you have) and/or the accessory pulleys, there is a good reason Mazda, Mitsubishi and Porsche use balance shafts in large displacement high revving 4 cylinders. otherwise looks like a great list of parts!

OP is a faggot. My advice, take it in stocked out.. leave the catback and BOV and trade the car in for a 2015 Mustang GT with the performance pack and recaros. Get out before you go down a long path of blown dipsticks, multiple catch cans, and wheel spin.

Thanks tips everyone appreciates what you had to say


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Was gonna get the rotating assembly balanced to make up for the balance shaft being gone, if Mazda did this to start with wouldn't need one, I might be wrong, if so please enlighten me


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I thought I saw multiple references to the balance shaft does not really do much for balancing the engine but instead was designed to make the passengers feel more comfortable.

With the balance shaft you get a smoother ride
Without you get to run a nice bit more of oil which can help with dilution (still play it safe with a wind age tray)

Absolutely baffle will be going in, I think maybe balance shaft had something to do with bearing being spun, oil slows over cylinder 3 and boom, meth diluting the oil could have been a factor as well and that extra oil would give me piece of mind, and if rotating assembly is balanced correctly the "ride" wouldn't be too bad everything should spin fine, it's when guys just slap the bsd on that vibration gets bad especially if your mounted


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balance shaft is not for balance of the rotating assembly it is to counteract natural harmonic imbalances inherent in a four cylinder.

Actually, the balance shafts are there to cancel out certain moments (rotating vibrations) that can't be cancelled by the crankshaft counterweights. Even on a production motor it won't fully happen (except possibly on a few motors) because Mazda didn't individually balance each one so there will be a statistical distribution of vibration characteristics across the motors.

So if you do a BSD you will probably get increased vibes even if you get the crank balanced. Obviously plenty of people have done it though.

As far as I know, after balancing their crank no one adjusts the balance shafts if they leave them (though I bet few really building out their motor do leave them). Therefore, if you had a crank that was on the higher end, you might theoretically end up with a better balance. Of those that balance their cranks one can conclude that (if Mazda calculated the balance shafts right and the crank/conrod/piston weights are normally distributed) half will definitely wind up with better overall engine vibrations and half might end up with worse. The latter half will have an improvement from the crank/piston/arm balance but have a competing worse vibration situation with the secondary vibrations that the balance shaft is supposed to cancel.

In the end, make a choice:

1. Less vibes

Or

2. More oil capacity for less diluted oil between oil changes.

You can debate it all day long but at the end of the day just pick a poison and run with it.

Running meth think I'll go with the later and go for less diluted oil


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Cuz racecawr

I don't think its more oil I think that the balance shaft assembly keeps a quart from being drained. So it allows you to change all of it. It would also explain why the oil turns black in like 50 miles after an oil change.

You are probably right but I'm thinking in terms of oil change. You have to purchase more oil and therefore should get less diluted oil every oil change.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...41f31ccc59.jpg here's log of when I spun bearing 21 is where it happened but 20 was running like a champ, keep in mind I'm in alberta and were 1700 ft above sea level, maybe the meth map put me a little over the edge


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ok, so, 4 cylinders, 2 go up, 2 go down, even perfectly balanced you will get a rocking motion (side to side in a transverse mounted engine) the balance shaft counters this by rotating a shaft that is balanced to counter the shaking by shaking somewhat equal but opposite.. if you change the weight of the rods/pistons you might want adjust the balance shaft but the shafts were spec’d to the middle of tolerable variance for our OE parts.... you’ve seem to have made up your mind on this so I wish you good luck as might end up better or worse.

Some great info I've ordered arp main studs, any input from some of the guys running bsd would be awesome, @Justin@Freektune; @SPEEDPERF6RMANC3; @edgeautosport; @Lex; how do you feel about balance shaft delete with our platform, we know it's purpose but are we better with or without it


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SP63's stance on this is pretty clear.

From their facebook page:

http://i.imgur.com/GH6Yu4I.jpg

There are soooo many speeds already running bsd. The argument of internal damage is such a small debate that it's not worth loosing the interest of this thread.

How's the progress OP?

Parts ordered just waiting on em then dropping off block,crank,gurdle, pistons and rods at shop turnaround is pretty good so should have a block to assemble by end of the month hopefully


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Balance shaft keeps the throw of the engine calmed down. Balancing everything is not even related to the balance shaft.

Personally, go for a BSD. It will just increase vibes. Can it lead to engine damage? More than likely not. Since you're built I wouldn't worry about it.

Subbed for build results! Great thread man!

What started out as an ass rapping train, has come around lol thanks for your input arp mains and head studs are what I'm going for and if I don't have to shave down bolts why bother


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well that would sure be some kinda caboose!

I can see the movie promos now. "Move over Rappin' Duke, this train's got Rappin' Back."

IMO I wish I still had my BS cause my car vibrates soo much. But I also don't want that dirty oil not draining. I feel like you could put a small drain hole in the bottom of the BS case so that it would drain oil when doing an oil change but (I think) sense the bottom of the BS case is submerged in oil under normal circumstances than it would stay full.
Ive mentioned this before bud IDK if it would even work. Maybe be just a bunch of BS BS.

@Jdraps13; just how much of a pain in the ass was it to remove the engine WITHOUT the transmission? That just seems super complicated. But at the same time, since you don't have to deal with the removal of the axles, simpler.

I bet putting it back it sucks even more. Trying to lower without pinching the harness and stabbing the transmission back in. I can't say it's harder but, I I think it would be.

I would just pull trans as it will be more of a pita to line back up and likely end up just pulling anyways cause you cant get it to line back up. I had a hard time lining it back up outside the car but I was working on it by myself. Much easier with two people
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...7/#post2727491