Bogging after Autotech HFPF install
 

Installed Autotech HFPF last night.

Drove it back to where I normally park. Ran and drove fine (at parking lot speeds). Did not drive on the road as we also cleaned the air filter and it was still damp.

Head out for work this morning and it goes out of the parking lot fine, but when I try to accelerate into traffic, it bogs.

No idiot lights. No weird sounds besides the bog. Don't smell any fuel under the hood.

Not sure what to look for here. Searched and only found an unanswered thread about a 2008.

I do not yet have AP. I purchased this car modified (Forge V2, CorkSport intake, downpipe, exhaust), but the previous owner had not replaced the fuel pump internals or added an AP.

Do not have access to tools. It does reach boost, but bogged at 2500 or 3000.

Most likely a botched install, take it out and reinstall, pay close attention to how parts are oriented (it is easy to install the sleeve upside down); make sure everything is super clean, not a speck of dust on the internals; the little spring is in the spill valve, etc, etc.

That's just it. We were super anal retentive about the install. Followed Cobb's 13:20 YouTube install video. The sleeve was oriented with the hole facing towards the spring, as shown in the video.

All old and new parts were cleaned with non-chlorinated cleaner.

I was on my way to work and now do not have access to tools.

You should really have an AP. Check for intake leaks, Maybe clean your MAF sensor while you are at it.

I would love an AP and it is the next purchase.

Cleaned everything meticulously yesterday though I did not do the MAF due to not having MAF cleaner with me (it's at my house. I am not at my house, I am at my boyfriend's.).

Everything looks good, no weird noises or smells either. Idles fine.

Check your air filter and make sure all clamps are tight and spray the maf cleaner on maf then reinstall. If air filter and maf are cleaned/installed correctly them it points to the internals. You will have to open up the pump again and double check everything in there.

Oh, and if your boyfriend doesn't have any tools, then you have a girlfriend.

He has plenty of tools. He did the install. But his tools are locked in a garage that I do not have the key to.

If you say you cleaned the air filter and it was still wet when you were driving, then I would suspect water got on the maf sensor. I would start with cleaning that first.

We cleaned not last night, maybe around 9 or so. Went to dinner in his Speed, came back and slept. Woke up and the bogging issue started around 7:45am.

MAF cleaner is at my house unfortunately. Not too tickled about driving the car as is. Will do asap though.

So we took it back apart and the only thing we saw that looked like an obvious issue to us is the inner o-ring looks half chewed up. One side is smooth and the other side is chewed.

Mazda told me they couldn't see just the o-ring in the catalog, but the entire "nut" is available for $69 and is two days out.

yikes, i think code money is probably right, It's been my experience that a chewed up o-ring usually means something was put together wrong.

Turns out the part doesn't appear to be available via Mazda unless purchased as a complete fuel pump.

Up for any suggestions. I drive a lot for work and I'm the aupervisor. I have to drive a car that is insured under my name as well.

Go to the parts store, they have an assortment of O rings you can buy. If they don't have them individually, which they usually dont, then buy the package and see what matches up. If anything it could work as a temp solution until you can source a used pump, but I don't see why it wouldn't be a permanent solution.

Sounds more like the MAF is wet to me.

The O ring isn't the primary seal between the oil and gas, the piston and sleeve themselves are. It should still be giving you pressure, I just imagine that if the O ring isn't in good condition, you'll get a lot of fuel dilution.

Assuming you have an android phone, download Torque Free, then get a bluetooth ELM327 adapter. Then you can at least see fuel pressure at the rail. Pair the adapter with your phone, open the app, add fuel rail pressure to the main screen (long press on background and add a gauge) and looks for problems while idling and driving.

I agree that it sounds like a MAF issue. Perhaps the sensor went bad. Any DTC's? Torque can also monitor MAF...I really feel that it is a basic tool almost everyone should have. iPhone has apps that can interface with ELM327 adapters as well.

SOLVED

We disassembled and reassembled everything. Only thing we did differentlywas torque the 18mm to 40lb-ft instead of 35lb-ft.

The guys who helped (not sure how to tag right now) found nothing wrong with the install.

Everything works great upon reassembly and the car is running fantastically.

Glad you have that figured out. i just went with the CPE Replacement pump.

umm, I'd be willing to bet the maf just dried off...torquing something 5 lb/ft more isnt going to fix an issue like you were describing. At least in my opinion. Glad you got it fixed though

Maf wasn't wet the air filter was cleaned a week ago. I found nothing wrong with the parts nor can I tell what went wrong with the first install. The o-ring pictured was a little flat but after the parts were installed they didn't have any resistance/binding so I went ahead and installed them. The car drove fine after second install without any symptoms mentioned.

Hmm, good shit, at least it's fixed

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