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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Whatever the piece in my attachment is called, it is not low enough for me to get the pump back into place so I can screw it back in. Has anyone encountered this issue and if so, how was it resolved? Compared to the picture from this install walkthough, mine is way too high for any progress to occur. Krystm's Garage – Mazda 3 Mods and More! » Cam Driven Fuel Pump (CDFP) Internals Install
__________________ 2010 Speed 3 JBR RMM|Shifter Bushings//CS SRI|TIP|Skidplate//Cobb AP//UR DP|TP//Autotech Internals//Falken RT-5//C-Clamp 321HP/436TQ 3gal E85 (Self-tune in progress) Last edited by DarkPasseng3r; 12-19-2011 at 10:18 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You might have to bump the motor(to rotate the cam lobe) make sure the f.p. relay is pulled!
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So far, the way I understand that is make sure fp relay is pulled. Put key in ignition at attempt to start the vehicle. Correct me if I'm wrong; I need it explained a bit more.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thats all there is to it. Pull fp relay. You can also disconnect main harness to coils and bump start the car. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That's it, screw in each of the screws a little bit a time till the pump is seated and make sure the o-ring seal doesn't get pinched while it is going in. Let us know how you make out!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes just turn the key to the start position quickly and let off, this should move the crank a quarter turn or so.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok guys. Thanks. I bumped the starter earlier today but I guess not long enough to get anything to move. The only thing that happened was gasoline spillage. I'll try this again tomorrow and let yall know how it goes.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well like I said keep us posted. But at least you don't have to deal with the cold like us up north, keep at it!
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score @kritz alright just went outside and hooked up battery and pulled the FP relay. Set up a gas catching container too for the open lines. I bumped the starter, nothing moved. Bumped it a few more times and still nothing. Am I missing something? Am I supposed to be in gear? Other thoughts that came to mind is to put car in first gear, find friction point on my clutch, and push the car a bit. Bare in mind (although I'm on a gen2 ms3 forum), I am working on an MS6. I wouldn't think that there is a difference though.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have, but everyone lives a bit far from me. I originally got the suggestion to bump the starter from them. But I gave up the first time because it didn't move what I wanted, and at the time, I didn't have a way to contain to fuel spill. But if it's the only solution, then I'll keep trying.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You could put the car in gear and push it until the cam lobe is in the correct position |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
Do I just put it in gear and push, or do I have to hold the clutch at friction point and have someone else push? Basically, I'm on my own, and until I get a hand, I'm trying to figure out ways to do this that doesn't require another person.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry DP3 I hit the rack last night couldn't keep my eyes open. heading to work now will check in when I get there,did you get pump back together correctly and when you removed it did it spring out ?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I feel confident I put the pump back in together correctly. When the pump was first removed, the spring and piston did come out after a little tug. Should the rebuilt fuel pump do the same?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When i reinstalled my upgraded pump, i thought the cam lobe was too high because the pump would not go in. I also had to give the pump a little tug to get it out. It turned out that the metal fuel line was just a hair too high and was blocking the pump at the bottom nipple to keep it from going in. So i gave the metal line a couple of love taps to move it down a hair.
__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I'm open to all other suggestions.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Try 2nd or 3rd gear. Make sure that you have some oil on the o-ring and that it is not getting pinched. I'm posting in your local Nator for you!
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__________________ 2011 BLACK MICA MAZDASPEED 3 25% E-85 Dizzy Tuned CP-E SRI // CP-E TIP // CP-E DP // CP-E FMIC // CP-E TURBO MANIFOLD // COBB AP // COBB XLE BPV // SURE SHORTCUT & COUNTERWEIGHT // SURE ANCHORS // JBR DOGBONE RMM // TWM DESERT EAGLE KNOB // DENSO ITV 22's // AUTOTECH INTERNALS // RESONATOR DELETE // MD OCC // SWIFT SPRINGS | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hmmm. Or you can just hook it up to another car and tow it while in gear huh?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @DarkPasseng3r Not trying to be a smart ass or anything but You do realize you have to compress the spring when you put the pump in correct? To an extent at least. But the screws should be long enough to at least catch, then screw them in evenly. Definitely make sure you oil that outer O ring so it doesn't get pinched like Kritz already mentioned. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Send me a round trip flight and I'll put it in for ya! Kidding aside how far does the pump body slide in before you feel spring tension?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
Have any of you installed the FP with that part as high as it is?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Quoting myself. (in the case you missed it). Hold the gas and clutch pedal to the floor. Holding the gas pedal to the floor will keep the injectors from firing. Turn the motor over briefly. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I never looked at the how mine was sitting honestly. It went in pretty easy each time I've removed and re installed a pump. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score @kritz, I have to compress the pump maybe a half a inch down just so the tip of the screws will reach the tread, then I have to push even further to try to get the screw to catch. @rfinkle2 ...just tried it. Gonna try it one more time. I'm spilling fuel like crazy!
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Alright guys, pulled the FP relay, even pulled harness for the coil pack, pushed in clutch and gas, turned the key to start (1 second at a time).... NOTHING! I dunno what the F is up! @kritz, when I try to screw it in, I can get two screws to catch at a time. By the time I get to the third and have to reposition the pump to get the correct angle, one or both of the other screws pop out. I don't want to ruin the threads.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Silly q, but your battery is still connected, correct? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes hahaha.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Houston Nator Forces have been activated I've not done the HPFP but I'm certain someone else in town has. I've posted to the Nator Houston Facebook account which instantly sends the Bat-signal to all Nator Forces in the Houston area. I'm certain someone can help you out. BTW, what part of town are you in?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Any one know what the socket size for the crank pulley is? May have to try that if I can find a ratchet long enough. *Update* I actually can't even get to it so NVM that idea for now.
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@chimmike would know. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can you pull that follower/bucket out by hand? That might be wedged slighly, therefore you are not seeing the cam move.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to atvfreek For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (12-19-2011) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score crank pulley socket is like 32mm, IIRC.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Chimmike For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (12-19-2011) |
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