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 Old 06-17-2013, 03:40 PM   #1
 
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Default Cleaned my intake valves at 40K miles

Thought I should share my results from the valve cleaning I did this weekend on my pu. Car had 40,000 miles. The cleaning was the biggest pain in the ass item I've done to my speed . Job took 7 hours all said and done. I also cleaned the entire intake manifold and throttle body. They were pretty dirty especially around the butterfly valves. I highly recommend you clean them while they're off. I used nylon engine brushes, a makita drill, shop vac, carburetor cleaner, and chemtool valve cleaner. If you don't have a drill go buy one, it will easily take you double the time without it. If you can, clean the valves with the walnut media, it gets the valves cleaner and requires less work.

Recommendation: Try getting nylon engine brushes that are a little bigger than the intake opening, they clean a lot better.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 04:42 PM   #2
 
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Now is a good time to put in a meth kit. :thumbup:

Also, I've heard people express concern about using any sort of brush when doing this for fear of a bristle falling off and later ending up in your engine. Perhaps nylon would just burn up?

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 Old 06-17-2013, 05:02 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by SeeMeGovan View Post
Now is a good time to put in a meth kit. :thumbup:

Also, I've heard people express concern about using any sort of brush when doing this for fear of a bristle falling off and later ending up in your engine. Perhaps nylon would just burn up?

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Saw some bristles fall off but I got all of them out. Valves provided a good seal so I'm confident nothing went through. I think nylon would burn up if it did end up in the motor. I sprayed each valve entry with carb clean a couple times over then sucked them dry with my vac. Didn't see anything left over after inspection.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 05:44 PM   #4
 
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Notice any driveability changes? I'm getting ready to do mine once I get my powder coated intake manifold and valve cover back.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 05:54 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by rustysurfsa View Post
If you can, clean the valves with the walnut media, it gets the valves cleaner and requires less work.
Damn right...I needs to get one of them walnut pistols!
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 Old 06-17-2013, 05:57 PM   #6
 
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I'm hoping that getting on the corn at 3.5k miles will remove this from my future to-do list.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:02 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
I'm hoping that getting on the corn at 3.5k miles will remove this from my future to-do list.
It wont change anything, theres still not any fuel passing over the valves on a DI set up. You'll need some sort of Aux system, be it meth or a 5/6 port.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:02 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
I'm hoping that getting on the corn at 3.5k miles will remove this from my future to-do list.
Voltwings beat me to it and explained better. I'm curious to see what mine look like when i do them again, after cleaning them around 30k and spraying meth from a d07 nozzle. I plan to do them at 50k or sooner.

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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:03 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
Ugh, e85 wont change the way your engine gets it's fuel.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:08 PM   #10
 
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Lol - we'll just forget I ever said that. I was thinking solvent properties and fuel injectors.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:10 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
Notice any driveability changes? I'm getting ready to do mine once I get my powder coated intake manifold and valve cover back.
The valves were not that dirty compared to others I've seen so the differences is not substantial. Idle is the biggest difference, it's a lot smoother than before. My MPG has gone up as well. Pull feels similar but my MAF is showing more airflow and my boost is coming a bit quicker. Throttle response is better as well. Probably freed up 5-10 HP.

Polishing those intake inlets would probably free up way more, as you can see that surface is rough as hell.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:12 PM   #12
 
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I would love to get this done as my car has about 60k and is most likely much worse. Some mechanic tried selling me on the motorvac thing and I laughed in his face.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:13 PM   #13
 
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Pretty sure the ports are rough for a reason.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:21 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
Voltwings beat me to it and explained better. I'm curious to sew what mine look like when i do them again, after cleaning them around 30k and spraying meth from a d07 nozzle. I plan to do them at 50k or sooner.
You wont need to. I sprayed for like 3k miles (2 gallons of straight meth) before my motor build (motor was built at 55k miles with no previous valve cleaning) and the valves were damn near spotless when the motor was pulled apart.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:43 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
You wont need to. I sprayed for like 3k miles (2 gallons of straight meth) before my motor build (motor was built at 55k miles with no previous valve cleaning) and the valves were damn near spotless when the motor was pulled apart.
What nozzle size were you runnning? and I assume this was before the direct port setup? Maybe I can avoid a cleaning by spraying more meth...
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:47 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by speed23 View Post
What nozzle size were you runnning? and I assume this was before the direct port setup? Maybe I can avoid a cleaning by spraying more meth...
D07, and since i was on my 3071 at that point, i had the meth start spraying at like 15 psi so i could brake boost. On a stock turbo when the spray start can be as low as 5 - 7 psi and you hit that shit daily driving it probably would take even less time.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:50 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
You wont need to. I sprayed for like 3k miles (2 gallons of straight meth) before my motor build (motor was built at 55k miles with no previous valve cleaning) and the valves were damn near spotless when the motor was pulled apart.
So forget the valve cleaning I could just spray meth over a certain period of time and it would clean them out? Certainly much cheaper and preventative for the future.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 06:53 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by mg446 View Post
So forget the valve cleaning I could just spray meth over a certain period of time and it would clean them out? Certainly much cheaper and preventative for the future.
I dont know about cheaper, but yeah im a believer in meth after seeing mine after such a short time, not to mention the performance benefits of methanol. i tuned a local guy and we ran his D07 nozzle wide open just to see what we could do with 100% denatured alcohol, his BAT's went to 20* below ambient (~60* outside, BAT's logged 42*).
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 Old 06-17-2013, 08:24 PM   #19
 
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Mine were really bad at 80k on my genwon. I soaked them overnight and then soaked them for another couple hours and it still took forever to get them nice and shiny. Car did run great afterwards. I installed the JBR tigs while I had the tb and im off.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 09:48 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by Switters View Post
Mine were really bad at 80k on my genwon. I soaked them overnight and then soaked them for another couple hours and it still took forever to get them nice and shiny. Car did run great afterwards. I installed the JBR tigs while I had the tb and im off.
Unfortunately I do not have access to the tools/knowledge required to clean the valves so I am trying to look at alternatives as the guy i go to is saying like $2500 to do a valve cleaning which is a travesty. I know it is definitely something that needs to be done on our cars though so somehow I will get it done.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 10:57 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by mg446 View Post
Unfortunately I do not have access to the tools/knowledge required to clean the valves so I am trying to look at alternatives as the guy i go to is saying like $2500 to do a valve cleaning which is a travesty. I know it is definitely something that needs to be done on our cars though so somehow I will get it done.
It's not that bad **Boston accent**. Honestly you are just taking bolts off and cleaning pieces of metal. All it is, is a pain in the ass. You could do this whole thing for 150 bucks. All you need is a lot of time and a few tools. I could list everything you need if you want.
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 Old 06-17-2013, 11:16 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by mg446 View Post
So forget the valve cleaning I could just spray meth over a certain period of time and it would clean them out? Certainly much cheaper and preventative for the future.
Wishful thinking. That along with a catch can and blocking off the EGR might help delay the inevitable but the intake valves still get dirty.

If you are not careful you could make things worse.

I have been trying to find a mechanic in the Greater Los Angeles area to do it and my search has come up empty. I would rather pay some ahole $400 rather than doing that again.

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 Old 06-17-2013, 11:57 PM   #23
 
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I need to get around to doing this soon. 74k miles of gunk is in there I'm sure.

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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:14 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by rustysurfsa View Post
It's not that bad **Boston accent**. Honestly you are just taking bolts off and cleaning pieces of metal. All it is, is a pain in the ass. You could do this whole thing for 150 bucks. All you need is a lot of time and a few tools. I could list everything you need if you want.
Absolutely, I font mind spending a Saturday to do it just let me know what I would need.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 06:28 PM   #25
 
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There's a how to on the site. It's a great write up listed with everything you need.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 06:30 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by Switters View Post
There's a how to on the site. It's a great write up listed with everything you need.
I've never searched, is there one without the walnut media? Sounds like this guy does not have compressed air.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 06:31 PM   #27
 
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I think there are two, one with walnut media and another guy used a drill and wire brushes.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 06:41 PM   #28
 
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how to: clean your valves vol 2

Here's the link to the walnut-less cleaning.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 06:55 PM   #29
 
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After participating in the valve cleaning of a couple 1st gen cars and I feel like this is a much easier task on 2nd gen. Much easier.

Last edited by SLOWHATCH; 06-18-2013 at 08:22 PM.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
After participating in cleaning valves on a couple 1st gen cars, I feel like this is a much easier task on 2nd gen. Much easier.
Is there anything that ISN'T easier on the pu? I know cabin air filters are downright ridiculous on my juan.

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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:10 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by SeeMeGovan View Post
Is there anything that ISN'T easier on the pu? I know cabin air filters are downright ridiculous on my juan.

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downright ridiculous? You're doing it wrong then....

Took less than 30 minutes first time ever doing it. Theres a video on exactly how to do it each and every bolt...
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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:13 PM   #32
 
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I would consider the 1st gen cabin filter replacement a PITA for sure. But that's relative compared to other cars. 2nd gen does make it much easier.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:15 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by Switters View Post
Mine were really bad at 80k on my genwon. I soaked them overnight and then soaked them for another couple hours and it still took forever to get them nice and shiny. Car did run great afterwards. I installed the JBR tigs while I had the tb and im off.
Mine has 93k on it and has never been cleaned. I figure that's why my idle is a tad bit rough when cold. I've got a box of walnut and a speed blaster waiting for a free Saturday though. I thought about doing TIGs, is it worth it?
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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:26 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by soul.survivor View Post
Mine has 93k on it and has never been cleaned. I figure that's why my idle is a tad bit rough when cold. I've got a box of walnut and a speed blaster waiting for a free Saturday though. I thought about doing TIGs, is it worth it?
If you are removing the manifold, go ahead and pick up the manifold tig. It's going to give you the most benefit. Then just do the coolant bypass mod on the tb. IMO the throttle body tig is not necessary, since the temperature sensor is located in the manifold anyways.

This should help keep your BAT's noticeably cooler which will help make more hp. So yes, they're worth it.
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 Old 06-18-2013, 08:56 PM   #35
 
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They are reusable as well.
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 Old 06-19-2013, 07:18 PM   #36
 
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i should be doing this on my next oil change, im at 43k miles so far on the car and never cleaned the valves yet, i just need to find the right time to do this job.
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 Old 06-19-2013, 07:42 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
If you are removing the manifold, go ahead and pick up the manifold tig. It's going to give you the most benefit. Then just do the coolant bypass mod on the tb. IMO the throttle body tig is not necessary, since the temperature sensor is located in the manifold anyways.

This should help keep your BAT's noticeably cooler which will help make more hp. So yes, they're worth it.
Do you know anybody that stacks multiple tigs?

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 Old 06-19-2013, 07:54 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by RamiLP View Post
i should be doing this on my next oil change, im at 43k miles so far on the car and never cleaned the valves yet, i just need to find the right time to do this job.
Might as well install those TIGs and coolant bypass. I know a few people who would pay for thay service, haha.

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 Old 06-19-2013, 09:09 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Might as well install those TIGs and coolant bypass. I know a few people who would pay for thay service, haha.

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lets do it when i finish school, still got 2 more months to go.
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 Old 06-20-2013, 12:16 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by SeeMeGovan View Post
Do you know anybody that stacks multiple tigs?

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The jbr is able to be stacked but I personally don't know of anyone. If you have the $$ I say go for it.
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