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![]() | | #41 | ![]() |
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__________________ (310whp, 341 ft/lb wtq) 91 octane + 100% methanol JBR RSB, Stage2 OCC, Stage 2 SSP, IM TIG, 70D RMM, 70D PMM // DevilsOwn Stage 2 WMI kit + DO7 nozzle (MSF-prize) // COBB AP (Self-tune), XLE BPV // Corksport TMIC, SRI, TIP // Racing Beat Cat-back Exhaust // Denso Iridium ITV22 Spark Plugs // SURE TB TIG // Ultimate Racing Test Pipe // KMD HPFP Internals // TSW Nurburgring 18x7.5 ET45 Matte Black // SWIFT Spec-R Lowering Springs // | |
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![]() | | #43 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score when I have some time prepping the car for winter here shortly, I'm gonna go over all the suspension and see if anything is lose, although as other has said they were able to tighten like sway bar endlinks and get it to stop. I'll take a few photos and mark up what I tightened, etc.
__________________ 2014 Mustang GT Premium 6MT - GT Track Pack/Leather Recaros/Glass roof in Sterling Grey Metallic | Barton SS/2 Post | J&M LCA | Steeda Street UCA | JBA 3" O/R X | GT500 ABs | JLT plastic CAI | SCT xcal with AED HP custom tune SOLD2011 Mazdaspeed3 Celestial Blue Mica |
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![]() | | #44 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I get a clunk as well when backing up and it only seems to happen when the wheel is turned. My suspension is so modified that I haven't really bothered trying to analyze what was causing the noise. I could never figure out waht caused it and I can't take it to the dealer so I just deal with it.
__________________ Mazdaspeed CAI & CBE // UR test pipe // ETS TMIC // Corksport MM // OZ Ultraleggeras // Bridgestone 235/40/18's // Cobb springs // Koni yellows // TWM shifter bushings // Hotchkiss swaybars // Defi boost gauge w/Mearcat pod // Cobb AP // Cobb turbo inlet // HKS SSQV // PTP fuel pump internals // Denso plugs |
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![]() | | #45 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Same shit here :/ Sent from my T-Mobile G2
__________________ 2011 MS3"Princess GRU" GT2876r AEM Meth Injection, Cobb AP, HTP 3' Intake, KMD interals, Shitty FMIC, JBR 88d RMM, JBR 88d TMM, JBR TIG's x2, JBR BSD, JBR Short THrow Shifter, JBR shifter bushings, Corksport License Plate Bracket, Forge BPV v1, ATP Downpipe, UR Straightpipe Beast Mod, Progress RSB, Koni Yellows, Eibach Pro Kit, Kosei K1-TS Gold 17x8, E85 FREEKTUNE |
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![]() | | #46 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score mine does the same shit, only when im reversing and turning the wheels to the left. gonna take it in soon, starting to piss me off
__________________ 2013 Velocity red Mazdaspeed 3 tech. BT 2011 Velocity red Mazdaspeed 3-SOLD. FreeKtuned fitty fitty |
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![]() | | #47 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2014 Mustang GT Premium 6MT - GT Track Pack/Leather Recaros/Glass roof in Sterling Grey Metallic | Barton SS/2 Post | J&M LCA | Steeda Street UCA | JBA 3" O/R X | GT500 ABs | JLT plastic CAI | SCT xcal with AED HP custom tune SOLD2011 Mazdaspeed3 Celestial Blue Mica |
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![]() | | #48 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had the same issue, it was only intermittent. Until one day it just got progressively worse driving home on the highway. Turns out my rear swaybar endlink had come completely loose and on the verge of coming off. The nut didn't seem to have a grease pen marking from assembly. So I'm not sure if the assembly line forgot to torque it on all our cars or something? I took the nut off and checked the threads for wear from the constant clunking. Applied a little loctite and torqued that sucker down. No more noise from that endlink now
__________________ 2010 Black Mica MS3 |
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![]() | | #49 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just got my car Saturday, and got the clunk tonight backing out of my driveway. It sounds to me like a sway bar bushing needs lube. I have done this many times over the years on different cars, in fact GM had a major problem with this sort of thing in the early '90's. The solution is to remove the bushing, put lithium grease in it and reassemble. The degree of difficulty varies from car to car, and I haven't even looked under my car. If it continues, I'll try to do ten fix on my car this winter and report back. |
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![]() | | #50 | ![]() |
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__________________ ....says the genpu owner. | |
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![]() | | #51 | ![]() |
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| Neutral : +1 score @robry @zedekias @Mase @f-castrillo @JT.Tuckerman @2011speed TL;DR: Jacked up entire front of car. On affected side, un-bolted strut mount and removed endlink, clocked strut mount 120 degrees counter-clockwise from previous, re-installed strut mount and endlinks to torque spec, clunking now gone. Glad I found this thread again, as I've been able to solve my "clunking while reversing and turning" problem. About a month ago I pulled off the front wheels to check over the front suspension, and more specifically to look for causes of this issue. I should note here that in my case, the "clunk" sound occurred while backing out of my driveway and turning my wheel to the right (so if my car was the hour hand on a clock, it went from facing my garage door at 12 to facing down the street at 9). As best I could tell the sound came from the front driver side wheel area. The driver side was inspected first: 1) The endlink was tight at both points of attachment 2) The central nut on the top of the strut was tightened to spec 3) The three strut mount to tower bolts were tightened to spec I then decided to remove the endlink and strut mount to tower bolts. The endlink ball joints were surprisingly loose for a car with 5k miles; by that I mean they were easy to swivel compared to a new ball joint, which you can barely move by hand. With the suspension assembly "hanging" I reached up into the wheel well, grabbed the triangular mounting flange of the strut mount, and rotated it to check for wear. Interestingly the friction/resistance of the strut bearing changed from moderate to high approximately every 120 degrees of rotation, as if the bearing was slightly binding at certain points. Bear in mind that the change in effort I felt with my hands is miniscule compared to typical forces in the steering system, so I won't go so far as to say that the strut bearing was in fact "binding" so badly that it can be considered a problem. If any of you folks disagree on that matter, please be my guest and post up. Moving forward, I then proceeded to first re-install the strut mount clocked 120 degrees counter-clockwise from its original position and tightened the three bolts to spec in two stages (70% spec and 100% spec working clockwise). Once that was complete I applied anti-seize to the threads on both ball joint studs of the endlink and re-installed with both sides again torqued to spec in two stages. I reduced the 100% torque spec by 10% to account for the presence of anti-seize. Since doing this, the "clunking while reversing and turning" has not occurred at all. Although I still believe the strut mount may be suspect, I won't be taking it in to the stealership monkeys until it poses an obvious problem. |
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![]() | | #52 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice! Good info. Ironically I have not noticed the clunk in quite sometime. Maybe it settled or something. Thanks for writing this up though as I will know where to look if begins being a bitch again. Love your avatar! LOL
__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 |
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![]() | | #53 | ![]() |
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Glad to hear yours is behaving now as well. I was PISSED when mine started doing it about two days after I brought the car home. | |
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![]() | | #54 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hehehehe yeah I noticed that as well. Yeah I was not too happy either. Only seemed to happen when I first backed out of the garage in the AM. I can't remember the last time it did it. Knowing my luck something is fixing to go though! lol
__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 |
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![]() | | #55 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hah I know I feel like my front struts are on borrowed time. Speaking of which, are yours on the loud side? Mine have had that "new strut" clunky sound since I bought the car but it hasn't changed at all in 7500 miles. |
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![]() | | #56 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score mine haven't really made the noise in awhile, I'm at 15xxx miles right now. I'll pay attention once it warms up. I also moved and have to park in a certain spot of the driveway which requires me to turn/backup, almost parallel park the car. So that might be why it's not making noise anymore.
__________________ 2014 Mustang GT Premium 6MT - GT Track Pack/Leather Recaros/Glass roof in Sterling Grey Metallic | Barton SS/2 Post | J&M LCA | Steeda Street UCA | JBA 3" O/R X | GT500 ABs | JLT plastic CAI | SCT xcal with AED HP custom tune SOLD2011 Mazdaspeed3 Celestial Blue Mica |
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![]() | | #57 | ![]() |
| Formerly Plurnt ![]() Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Orlando, Florida
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| Not Ranked : 0 score soo this is a very old post i know but the dealership will not look at my car since it has aftermarket parts on it.. pathetic! i dont know if this is the same problem but when i put my car into reverse and hit the gas i hear a loud clunk as if a MM were loose (which i have checked and theyre all tight) i then park the car in the garage at my house, and then next time i go to leave i hear that clunk as soon as i start to drive, it doesnt do it again, once in a while it does it from a stop or if i downshift into first at higher RPM's.. this noise is pissing me off and something is going to snap im sure, any ideas? |
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![]() | | #58 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I test drove a 2011 with 3100 miles on it and a new 2013. Both when I put it into reverse, travel a bit (steering wheel straight), and put the tranny back in neutral is when the clunk happened. Clunk was loud on both cars, and only did it backing up..and then getting to a stop to move forward. |
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![]() | | #59 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Got my '12 a week ago, with 14,000 miles on it from the first owner. The clunk occurs as described in this thread, occasionally when reversing with the wheel fully turned. The sound is identical to the one heard in this video: |
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![]() | | #60 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My car does a light click noise when I first back the car out...but I think it's the ABS brake check though. So it could be what some of you are experiencing, which is normal. That clunk in the video is definitely louder than the ABS brake check though.
__________________ 2010 MS3 (Tech/CWP) -CP-e 75a RMM -JBR SSB -Denso ITV22's -Cobb AP (OTS stage 1 - 93) -Autotech CDFP internals |
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![]() | | #61 | ![]() |
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I've stopped worrying about it... I think 90% of PU owners report on this.
__________________ CRMetallic 2019 Mercedes C43 AMG SOLD MNBlue 2012 S4 Prestige... a few mods SOLD IB 2015 3.8 Gencoupe Ultimate BLOWED UP DIB 2014 Mustang 5.0... a few mods SOLD - LS 2012 MS3 Cobb AP//SF//CAB Autotech HPFP Corksport TMIC//BPV//TIP//BTbs JBR 88a RMM Sure M3 TP OBX CBE Tanabe NF210's ADVAN RG-D 18x8 +38 Freektuned 50/50 E85 | |
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![]() | | #62 | ![]() |
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I was going to take it to the dealer, but will leave it as is if it's not a big deal.
__________________ 2012 CWP Non-Tech MS3 JBR SSB, Mazda Rear Bumper Guards, JBR Mud Flaps, JBR 88a RMM, Mazda All-Weather Floor Mats, COBB AP V2B, JBR RSB with Tru-Torsion brackets, Autotech Internals, CorkSport SRI+TIP, JBR Stage 2 OCC, Mazda Rear Cargo Tray, Stratified S-OTS+ Stage 1 Map, NATOR NorCal Sticker Last edited by kolosok17; 07-14-2013 at 10:00 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score After hearing the clunk two times a day for last 5 months, it has completely disappeared |
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![]() | | #64 | ![]() |
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__________________ CRMetallic 2019 Mercedes C43 AMG SOLD MNBlue 2012 S4 Prestige... a few mods SOLD IB 2015 3.8 Gencoupe Ultimate BLOWED UP DIB 2014 Mustang 5.0... a few mods SOLD - LS 2012 MS3 Cobb AP//SF//CAB Autotech HPFP Corksport TMIC//BPV//TIP//BTbs JBR 88a RMM Sure M3 TP OBX CBE Tanabe NF210's ADVAN RG-D 18x8 +38 Freektuned 50/50 E85 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't mean to also revive this old thread, but.....I could have sworn someone found the issue. This weenie even went as far as putting his car on a lift and posting a video of it. He described it as a "jar popping" sound. It was the one of the driveshafts and when you wiggle it with your hand, it makes the same sound. I can't seem to find that thread to post it here, it wasn't too long ago that I'd seen it. Anyways, if my mind serves me correctly, mazda did not have a fix for that. |
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__________________ CRMetallic 2019 Mercedes C43 AMG SOLD MNBlue 2012 S4 Prestige... a few mods SOLD IB 2015 3.8 Gencoupe Ultimate BLOWED UP DIB 2014 Mustang 5.0... a few mods SOLD - LS 2012 MS3 Cobb AP//SF//CAB Autotech HPFP Corksport TMIC//BPV//TIP//BTbs JBR 88a RMM Sure M3 TP OBX CBE Tanabe NF210's ADVAN RG-D 18x8 +38 Freektuned 50/50 E85 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mine has done this since 4000 miles on the clock. Who knows. |
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Wow, you chose to necro a thread with your very first post... Some clever remark about being sent from Tapatalk
__________________ 2013 Mazdaspeed 3 VRM Cobb AP V2 / JBR SRI / JBR TIP / CP-e xFlex RMM / Forge V1 BPV / AT Internals / eBay TP / Hypnotic Tune in progress 8K Low Beams / Optilux Yellow Fogs / Plastidipped Emblems / Painted Calipers / Rear Wiper Delete / Resonator Delete Thou shall sweep the fucking popcorn and keep dicks out of thy mouth. - Dan 3:16 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score anyone find the solution to this problem? Thanks |
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| Wow, you chose to necro a thread with your very first post... sent from my Nexus 6P
__________________ 2013 Crystal White Pearl Mazdaspeed 3 w/ Tech Package BNR S4, XSPower v3 Exhaust Manifold w/ Tial 44mm EWG Cobb accessport V3, Dizzy Tune in progress CP-e stage2 rmm, tmic, hpfp JBR boost tubes, Tru-3.5in Intake inside a Corksport Cold Air Box, Catless Downpipe & Racepipe, bypass hose, hood scoop, BPV, hood struts, stubby antenna, Aluminum Skid Plate, EBCS, 3.5BAR MAP Sensor, Magnaflow Catback Exhaust DM Full EGR Delete, Passenger Motor Mount, Transmission Motor Mount., Coolant Bypass, VTCS Delete, NGK ILTR6A-7G ,G-LOC R6 Brake pads and Centric High Carbon brake rotors Looks: 25% tint front, 5% back, Heat-blocking front windshield film Escort Passport Max360, RGBW Halos/Demon Eyes 20'' LED Light bar Use my Updated Custom Google Search to search this forum since the advanced search here is broken |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Shift 1->2 clunk | mehc | CX-7 > Issues & Troubleshooting | 8 | 06-15-2011 08:29 AM |
| clunk when engaging reverse | SB.MS3 | MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics | 0 | 06-04-2011 05:39 PM |
| clunk from right front | rodrigo | MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics | 4 | 01-22-2011 04:08 AM |
| clunk cluck | philco1 | MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes | 17 | 04-08-2009 04:52 PM |