Corksport Lightweight Lug Nut Failure
 

This past weekend CCSCC held a two day autocross event on Sunday and Monday. This is what happened on my fourth run on Sunday.


I figured that would be a good introduction to the issue. This post isn't intended to burn CS, but warn anyone with a similar setup. I consider myself very lucky that the car didn't suffer anything more than the apparent damage, and most importantly that no one was hurt.

I like most was stoked when my CS custom UPS box arrived (08/22/13), and even more so when I got the lugs out and into my hands. I think I bragged to everyone I talked to about them, and after reading the directions and some posts. I went right to the local Sears store to pick up a 3/8 ft lb torque wrench(08/23/13). This was a huge leap forward for me. My first set of aftermarket wheels (Konig Illusions 18" x 8") with some really bad ass lugs. I installed my wheels and followed the torquing instructions to the letter (65 ft-lbs and check torquing after 50mi).

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...CC54E2E2E8.jpg

I than decided to order a set of JBR 5mm spacers, which arrived the Friday before the event (08/30/13), and I installed them the night before (08/31/13). Now before everyone starts going "why are you running spacers," why not? Is my reply. JBR markets his 5mm spacers just like that other company that shell not be named (SURELY you know who I'm talking about) as not needing extended studs to run them.

Once again I followed CS torquing instructions (65lbs),as well as JBR recommendations for the mileage for re-torquing (i.e. 5,10,15,etc). When I arrived at the event I checked the torquing on the lugs, and then again after my first two runs. It was the forth run that lugs snapped sending my tire flying (again I am very thankful no one was hurt).

So, were does that leave us now...

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...groundwide.jpg

Well, I'm now going to try and provide you all as much information as I can.

The broken lugs:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...psa388ed5b.jpg

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...psad14ce6f.jpg

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8c81d675.jpg

The last photo I believe is extremely important. It shows were the weak point is in the two piece lug design. The conical part has a cylindrical shaft of the aluminum with threads in it. This is the piece that snapped from the rest of the lug allowing the wheel to become free.

Now before everyone gets crazy... I did some measurements today through the open end of the lugs with and without spacers using a set of calipers.

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52c737b7.jpg

From measuring the depth we can then find out how much stud is actually being threaded into the lug. By then using the outside jaws we can get a good visualization of this by deductive reasoning.

Without spacer:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...psa9133d12.jpg

With spacer:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps75a65fc3.jpg

Some other information I can provide (due to Jamie asking if I knew) is the difference in the amount of turns with the lugs. I went a step further, I did it with and without spacers, as well as, the same test on a stock gen pu wheel.

Stock Gen 2 Wheel using Corksport Lightweight Lugs:
Without Spacer: 8 1/2 Turns
With Spacer: 5 1/2 Turns

Konig 18" x 8" Illusion Wheel using Corksport Lightweight Lugs:
Without Spacer: 7 1/2 Turns
With Spacer: 4 1/2 Turns

I believe that information speaks for itself, and I wish I would have noticed how low the turns were with the spacer. I also think it would be unsafe to run these lugs with a stock wheels and spacers. Just my .02. Anyway, the rest of my vehicles suspension is stock and has been so the life of the vehicle (yes I am the first and only owner).

Some other photos I think some would like to see:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...psf1e15308.jpg

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47285a12.jpg

Without Spacer:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...psa0aa1d4a.jpg

With Spacer:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps232c20f3.jpg

In my opinion I believed Corksport should warn its customers of using the lugs with 5mm spacers without using extended studs.

What I've learned:

1. Don't use aluminum lugs.
2. Seriously don't use aluminum lugs.
3. Don't use spacers without extended studs period (my opinion as of now).

Just to give a little after story:

The car was jacked up and we stole a lug from each of the other three wheels. I drove it to the pits, made some adjustments to the damaged wheel well, and drove to a local auto store to get some steel lugs.

When my wife and I got home this is what we did:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps879e386a.jpg

And we went back out the next day:

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ps498541d9.jpg

I did remove the rest of the lugs and spacers from the car, and it will stay that way for now.

I hope someone finds this information useful so it doesn't happen to someone else.

@Haltech;

Damn, these lugs reduce weight on a whole new level.

Did you sip the potion before you hit the 3 wheel motion?

Is that why it wouldn't fly... I knew I forgot something.

I saw all this carnage.

Nice write up gringo. I was glad to see you out the next day.

Did you get into MSM hopefully the fender isn't to much from them to get replaced

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3 of mine failed the exact same way but I was Installing my wheels.

Wow, that sucks balls.

I thought it was common knowledge though to run extended studs with spacers.

@nindoja Did yours break going down the road or were you taking off the wheels?

Only over 5mm I thought

Holy shit this is scary.... I wonder how much of it had to do with faulty design and how much of it is not having extended studs..

I heard anything over 3mm.

Its on my list of things to do. From what I'm seeing online the fenders are at most a couple hundred. The real expense will be the paint.

christ I'm glad you came out fine,

I'm sure CS will do something about this.

I wanted to rock some nice black nuts like the CS ones but went with Mcgard's because from amazon they fit my budget better.

Is the conical part a rotating washer like mcgard's thats meant to prevent scratches?

That's what I've also heard also 7+ turns for the nuts/bolts.

Hard to tell a mix of both I would think. Also that turn where the wheel came of was one of the fastest in the course. It was was on a bit of a down slope. And you end up doing a bit a breaking through that corner, at least I did. Which put a lot of weight and force on the outside front tire.

Its hard to tell on the pics but the threads pretty much got ripped out of the lugs.

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Holy shit. @nindoja; your lucky this didnt happen to you at gingerman.

Sent from my DROID RAZR

If you plan on doing any autocross or tracking please don't. Edge sells some nice looking steel lugs go with those. Aluminum is just to soft for me to trust holding all of that force.

Also if you have a shop do any wheel and tire work for you I would bet they will over torque them which will also cause a lot of problems

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Hell of a write up man. Good luck getting it sorted out.

I'm interested to hear what @CorkSport; had to say about this. Their site doesn't mention anything about spacers or thread engagement length. Since it's not a steel lug, I'm not sure the old 1.5x stud diameter applies.

@nindoja;

Contacted @CorkSport;

I haven't had the opportunity yet but, would you trust the stock lug nuts for tracking?

I would have either used stock lug nuts if I had a set of track shoes or like you said looked around at edge, so that's good to know.

And don't worry, I'm from MSF so I use a torque wrench, and I don't let shops touch my car (:

How much total thread in terms of length was inside the lugs? How much of that were you threading into/was engaged with the spacers?

There are cars that run OEM aluminum lugs such as my 944T but they are a single piece.

Glad no one was hurt.

Sorry this happened to you. Glad I didn't go aluminum.

I think this has more to do with the lugnut design and materials then spacers, but lets not rule that out of the question.

The size and spacing of aftermarket lug nuts plus the threading type + type of material have a lot to do with the outcome.

I have a feeling the light weight aluminum expanded while on the track due to excessive heat and the fact that there was less thread for it to hang onto with the spacer on helped the lug nut dislodge itself.

The thermal expansion in the light weight aluminum plus the reduced threading probably had something to do with it. All of that would hinder the frictional force holding the lug nut to the wheel stud. Then one hard corner with the weight over that wheel and pop!

Oh I do to but I can't mount my own tires. And the shop in town I work with always over tighten shit drives me nuts. I have used stock logs nuts for a year auto crossing now. No issues

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It really sucks you're having problems with your nuts.

No man likes to hear that.

Just got off the phone with Joel. He told me about how 3mm spacers on stock studs were the max, about how there is away to measure the width to get how much of the stud needs to enter the lug so it won't break, as well that 5mm spacers + stock studs with steel lugs would have failed as well, also that they have sold hundreds of sets with zero problems, and that if I would like to get another set when they come back in stock that I could get a deal on them.

Hey, I'm done it is what it is.

Even black nuts got problems

I'm not sure if this was on the site before this thread, but this is what it states now.

WARNING: DO NOT USE WHEEL SPACERS OR ANY WHEEL THAT ALLOWS FOR LESS THAN 11mm OF THREAD ENGAGEMENT, DOING SO WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND COULD CAUSE FAILURE.

I'd like to add that if this wasn't on the website when you got these, they are liable. If you followed their instructions to the fullest, it is not your fault. I know the air tools part was on there because I was looking into these a few weeks ago, but I'm not sure about the spacers/minimum thread depth.

I've been running 5mm spacers with stock studs and gorilla lugs for over a year and half. Over that time I've done 4 track events and probably 20 autocross events. Not a single issue.

I believe I lost about three threads with the 5mm spacers + 1mm for the non-stock wheel. Like I said it had 4 1/2 full turns with spacer. I'm not sure if I answered your question or not Lex sorry...

I just noticed these lugs sell for $100 :eek5:. Got my gorilla's for $25, they look just as good and are probably a lot stronger.

I don't think the stock ones would have failed since steel doesn't have the same thermal exapansion coeffecient... you need more information to make that statement that the stock ones would have failed.

Mainly because I run 5mm spacers + RPF1's + stock nuts... taking it out to have some fun, wheels + brakes were hot = no issues at all when going around hard corners.

That was definitely not there, and he pretty much told me "sorry I can't be more of a help."

He did not say stock lugs in that comment, he just mentioned any steel lugs.

It wasn't, I have a screen shot of it. Not impressed.

Well then, they should compensate the damages... They'll fight it, obviously because they sold product which can fail under the instructions they previously provided. If it does not specifically state to not use with aftermarket wheels, then you can use them.

Yes, people will argue common sense, but that's not how our justice system is set up. For better or for worse. And spacers are definitely a foreseeable possibility and their use/lack of use should have been stated in their instructions or warning section.

Especially aftermarket wheels should have been referenced. Since offset is just like using spacers.

I have talked to the OP and hopefully sorted things out. I'll do my best to answer most of the questions I've seen in the last few minutes here.

Based on my measurements:

Stock Wheel thickness (at the hub face): 11.4mm
Stock Wheel Stud thickness ( from rotor face) 24.0mm
Stock Wheel Stud Diameter: 11.8mm

Typically, you want a 1 to 1 ratio for the stud diameter to thread engagement. In this case, that would be 11.8mm

Based on the math, that leaves you approx 0.8mm of wiggle room on a stock wheel with stock lugnuts.

The OP had a wheel approx 1.5mm thicker than the OE giving him approx 11.1mm of thread engagement which is below spec but probably plenty safe (as it has been for the literally hundreds of other customers running our lugnuts). When you add in the 5mm wheel spacer you are now left with only 6.1mm of thread engagement for the lugnuts.
The factory wheel studs are a 1.5mm thread pitch so you would then be left with just 4.0666 threads on which to keep your wheels on. With a steel lugnut and a factory wheel, Mazda would not consider that safe and neither would I.

However, I am very interested to hear what anyone else thinks as I want to be as fair as possible and certainly want to treat people the way I would wish to be treated so please, let me know your thoughts.

Cheers,
Joel

That's to bad out of all the vendors on here I at least expected CS to man up and help out in someway. Maybe not anything monitary but at least an investigation and some more testing on there lugs

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Hopefully they won't have to recall all these nuts, and people will realize the risk of using spacers, I have seen posts on stance forums that say you're safe with four turns on the lug nuts.

So CS threw up an additional disclaimer in the midst of all this? @Joel@CorkSport;

CP-e did that shit back in the day when you had to send in a FP in as core. Many didn't get the core because they added the disclaimer "must be a working FP".

MSM discount for autocrossers doesn't extend to bodywork, only chassis/engine parts. Check the terms.

WOW! Kudos to you for going back out and racing again that is some spirit right there! Glad you are safe!

Based on my math that has nothing to do with steel vs aluminum with thermal expansion.

And the nominal difference the number of threads grabbing has nothing to do with the amount of active friction holding the wheel there...

If gringo was shearing off the wheels studs that would have been the problem but the stud is still there... it was stripped from the lug nut not grabbing it properly on the stud.

Does that make sense?

Cached links (Respective dates at very top of page):

CORKSPORT Lightweight Lug Nut Set

Wasn't there...

And an older one: http://web.archive.org/web/201205250...g-nut-set.html

stance retards sit in parking lots, they don't do anything near as aggressive as Auto-X or even taking a turn faster than a city bus.

I was planing on ordering these, until I heard Matt and Dan find out about this on Monday.

Good luck getting it sorted out.

Looks somewhat close...

From Sept last year.....sorry for the huge pic. CS did take care of me without any fuss.
http://s18.postimg.org/4n5xfictk/cslugs.jpg

:popcorn: and it begins

@rfinkle2; @Voltron Locos;


:arms::arms::arms:

let the fun begin

Did Cullen take over at CorkSport? In for Joel Eats Penises vinyl.

cannot see pic :(

I am one of those against the use of wheel spacers on race tracks. Granted, i would be using a steel lug myself, however... even with extended studs from ARP, i still would never track a car on spacers, just my personal preference.

What your video shows is nothing compared to the results of a high speed track run resulting in a wheel failure. you are VERY lucky you did not get hurt, but more importantly, hurt anyone else as tracks dont cover damages nor does your insurance unless you have special track insurance.

Its unfortunate this happened to your car and i hope CS takes care of you. I would advise CS to be very adamant about the use of their lugs used on spacers. Its kind of hard to really point the blame at CS since these were used on spacers. Im just happy to see no one hurt regardless.

Well you see this is why we all need TWM Titanium lug nuts, they're only 500$.

I thought you were joking... but then I googled it... $560 for a set of titanium lug nuts. DAMN!

I don't blame you, I think we might see them in a Neiman Marcus catalog this year lol

I'll re-host when I get home. Work blocks most photo sharing sites.

You ever heard of the dollar store, where everything is a $1? Welcome to the 500 dollar store... Everything from TMW is $500.... -__-

Fuck a $200 shift knob. Shit better fucking shift itself into gear.

This happened to me at track., 10 of the 20 lugs broke coming off.
I was stuck with my slicks on, we had to drop the car, and rock the car until the remainder of the lugs somewhat got loose and then use needle nose pliers to twist them off.


Never been a fan of this company.
Will never recommend anyone I know to buy their shit either.

Oh yeah, my car fell off the jack after we rocked it, my side skirt and fender are fucked.

I would be really pissed had that shit broke off while banging down the track.

Were you running spacers on those slicks teddy or OEM?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/06/bune9amu.jpg

This is exactly what mine looked like when they failed. I don't use spacers or track my car. They just shattered as I was torquing them down.

Holy shit if I had these on my car right now, I'd run outside and swap stocks back on...

@nindoja; hasn't chimed in yet, but we went to the drag strip and had two of these back off to finger tight and he was only alerted by the rumbling noise. When we replaced his brake pads a week later, I took his wheels off and again 3 of them were extremely loose, and fewer than half of the lugs *felt* like 65ft/lb breaking loose.

They were not threading cleanly going back on - enough so that I made a comment about the threads feeling sloppy and the lugs wobbling further down the stud than I cared to see.

He recently sheared one in the same spot as the OP's pics, but I wasn't there for that and I'm not aware of the circumstances involved. If you're sporting these, spacers or not, I'd triple check the torque. I love Corksport but these aren't going on my car.

I have to admit, I'm a little frustrated with Corksport as well.

The lugs that Teddy ran @ the track that caused a problem were Corksport's second revision of these lugs. He borrowed them from me. I didn't make a stink over it because I'm just glad Teddy is OK, but I'm out a set of lugs...

My friend Ricknm above and I work on his car in my garage quite a bit and he really likes to use Corksport parts.

There have been numerous (3 times iirc) occasions that we've had to fudge installs, or use parts that I had handy to complete his installs correctly, because things just didn't line up straight or this or that was not correct.

Also, I know of numerous e-mails that Corksport was sent with no answer (not from me).

Anyhow, I'm just bothered by the idea that the lug nuts are breaking on a guys car whom I lent them to, that another of my friend's e-mails go unanswered, and a lot of little promises and some install hours were wasted in between.

I don't have any of Corksport's parts, well 1, an underhood led strip, and really have a hard time recommending them when people ask what brand parts to buy.

I also am out a set of lugs, am sitting on a v1 catch can with a glued on lid and just overall a little frustrated with them @ this point.

This is why I will never run "lightweight" lug nuts.

Cork sport isn't really the only company to blame, the entire concept is to blame.

Lightweight lugs do absolutely nothing for your car except lighten up about 5 actual pounds at highway speeds, if that much. Take a poo if you want that weight gone.

All lightweight / aluminum lugs are known for doing this because.. Well they're aluminum.

Never have and never will run aluminum lugs for this very reason, defend them all you want, but gains are nil. All you get out of them are lighter wallets each time you warp or break one.

One thing to keep in mind, is that the JBR spacer is not hub-centric to the wheel. It is hub centric, meaning that is is centered to the bore on the hub, however it is not centered to the wheel hub bore. It is relying on the 2-3mm lip (from what i'm guess from the pic) sticking out from the spacer to center the wheel. If the wheel doesn't sit on the lip of the hub bore perfectly, your lug nuts may have additional forces being applied to them because you are now in essence running a lug centric (i think that's what it's called) setup - relying on the lug nuts to center the wheel on the hub.

FYI - I got a vendor thread shut down on M247 for selling these types of spacers - but he was selling them thicker than 5mm also. The thread was deleted on M247, but here's the thread on MSF I started about it: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...47-fail-68083/

Also, I emailed JBR about his design suggesting a change (no response). I'm not pointing a finger at JBR at all - he has great stuff, but just posting additional information to give you all things to consider.

EDIT 2: Here is an example of Hub AND Wheel centric spacers: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/wheel_spacers.html

The fronts had spacers but Are bolted up to oem studs and the cs lugs bolt up to the spacer studs. The rears I used no spacers so this fail has nothing to do with it kevin

I don't understand this... I added this warning the minute after I got off the phone with the OP. I wouldn't want anyone else to put ANY lugnuts on with only 4 threads. I get the feeling that if I didn't do it I would still get some people complaining that we "still didn't have a warning on the site about it".

Do you want pro-active or do you want nothing???

I don't want this to happen again, I don't want this to happen to anyone, ever, period. I'm very upset that this happened in the first place and want to make sure it doesn't happen again. This is a pretty big snowball of issues and we happen to be one of parts involved. I don't see any warnings from the wheel manufacturer or the spacer manufacturer. I've also already done more research in the last few hours than easily anyone else has or has posted. This is a big deal to me and I made sure to contact the OP personally and make additions to the website to make sure we can hopefully prevent this from happening again.

Cheers,
Joel

I ran project my lugs for almost a year with no issues including on my old slicks.

I don't think the threading is the main issue also, yes there should be the specified number of turns but there seems to be an issue with the lug nuts themselves not wanting to hold onto the studs after being warmed up.

The front wheels get considerably hotter than the rears. The two thermal expansions of the lugs and studs are different so when the lugs expand the steel hasn't as much. Just my take on it though. Good luck with finding the solution, I don't think it will take too long just a little tinkering with new materials.

ps good on you for being proactive but you should add the date it was revised

@Joel@CorkSport; is there any chance there was a machining discrepancy with a recent batch of product? The lugs Nindoja had exhibited a lot more play in the threads than the stockers. I expressed my concern about putting them back on the car from that feeling alone.

I guess there's always a chance that his studs were stretched from countless tire swaps, might've been hit with an impact at a service station, etc. I'll just stop conjecturing and let you guys work this out. My CS TMIC gets here on the 9th, very much looking forward to that install.

I think the reason people were upset at the recent warning on the site is because it could have been a ploy to say "we warned you". We just wanted to make sure to say that all precautions that were provided by corksport (at the time of purchase) were followed by the OP.

Great question. We have literally sold hundreds of sets and the only problem we've seen in any reproducible number is the damage from using an impact gun on them (That's why we have that warning on the product page). If you have a possible issue that you are concerned about, PLEASE, send those back to me (address it to Joel Tandberg at CorkSport) and I will personally work with engineering and QA to make sure they are fine and within specs. If not, I will send you new ones or refund your money. No question.

Cheers,
Joel

I was on site at the event as well. It looked pretty brutal, but I'm glad you were unharmed and your car didn't receive more damage than it did. I was quite surprised to see you out there on Monday as well- that was awesome!

Corksport really should have had the disclaimer/warning on their product specs before- it's too bad a few good speed3's had to go down to get it there. They are the engineers. I don't think they can assume an average consumer will take each 0.1mm into consideration when designing their wheel setups. Hopefully the new warning helps others avoid this failure in the future. I do think the respectable thing to do would be to compensate those individuals that were subject to the failure before the warning was posted.

Although really, I don't think I'm convinced that your lugnuts are the right place for weight savings...



Sidenote:
You can order anything on their website. I ordered an LED taillight and a washer blade from them with my discount, over the phone. Didn't question it.

This was not the purpose of me posting. I was simply clarifying for those who asked and keeping everyone honest. Nothing more. I like you guys in general and the parts that you make. You'd know if I didn't.

Just like with anything else, regarding thermal expansion, a general rule of thumb is to avoid threading unlike metals. Nearly any mechanical industry (that knows what it is doing) abides that rule, when threading load bearing components, and in fluid delivery/control.

Not to mention, I would question the strength of aluminum to begin with. If you can imagine, the centrifugal force exerted when a car is busting ass around corners at a high rate of speed is quite excessive.

Joel,

I have issues with this post. Mainly, because I sent you guys a MSG via the Forums Monday night with the video and several pictures. Got a response Tuesday that someone from customer service would contact me. I really don't think you would have called unless I called Corksport first. Also, the conversation was dry and short. I felt like you were trying to educate me about your product that I no longer have anymore or would run. My lesson was learned at the event, and from talking to fellow enthusiasts . And I could also tell you wanted to get off the phone with me, which is cool your a busy person I understand and respect that. I'm glad this resulted in a warning for your customers. Honestly, thats all I wanted. But, one thing is for sure, you lost a customer.

Side note: I'm a shift worker, so calling on one of my days working isn't going to happen.

-Brian

If you ordered over the phone and got whatever you wanted, there's a chance it's because you have the lady-bits mod.

For guys, your experience may vary.

Thanks everyone for the mentions.
@Joel@CorkSport; I had failure of one of my lugs when removing the front driver's side wheel from the car. I've never put an impact to the lugs, and the one time I took it to a shop I was very strict that they not impact it.

That said, what would the damage be? I assume, based on the design, that it would round out the ends but not damage the threads?

I'll address the concerns that @JgamB; presented. I'm running 5mm JBR spacers up front and had issues with the lugs coming loose during a drag strip event. On one wheel, 3 of the 5 were finger tight. I tightened them to spec and kept running. A few more runs later and they were loose again.

Got home that night and torqued them back to 65ft/lbs and never had an issue again with them getting loose. I did not take the car back to the strip though.

Fast forward about a month and I'm at Gingerman Raceway doing a pre-race inspection. Some of the lugs weren't quite 65ft/lbs, but they were in no way finger tight. Retightened them with my torque wrench (Crafstman) and double checked them with @kritz;'s torque wrench. Everything looked good and worked fine during the track event.

Got home from EMWNM and went to swap my front brakes. 4 lugs came off the driver's side just fine when the 5th one sheared. Note, this was when taking the wheel off of the car. Since it was the last lug, I was supporting the wheel so it didn't have additional forces on it.

I've not yet taken the rear lugs off, but I will do that this weekend.

I filed a support ticket with CS and they have offered to send me a replacement lug. I just responded and asked them to wait until I get the others off the car before they take any action.

Honestly, I don't feel comfortable running these on the car and will be switching to gorilla lugs that I had sitting around.


EDIT: Not sure if it matters, but I'm running 17x9 PF01-SS with hub-centric rings and 5mm spacers.

That's sad. My 5mm spacers with stock lugs are on a heavier car that was on stickier tires and (no offense) going much faster than what you were.

Same course, same day, guess I'm lucky?

PS - I don't run hub centric wheels or rings, either.

As Rob said above, I have had several issues w/ Corksport in the past few months. Including unanswered emails.

I addressed Derrick with a lengthy email two days ago. I didnt want to post anything on here about it, to avoid the bandwagoning, so I did not. It is ironic enough that the lug problem has popped up now too.

Derrick asked to call me, which I dont feel will do much good because I am very much over Corksport at this point.

I won't go into detail w/ the issues Ive had w there products, unless any of you are interested. I will say though, that I can FULLY understand and I would encourage Derrick or anyone else at CS to call these guys first, as luckily for me, my car was not damaged as a result of there products.

Good luck OP, and anyone else who had these problems, Teddy included.

That's a fair reaction. I would say a few things however just in fairness.

Monday was a holiday, there was nobody to even read your email. After everyone got back from the weekend (except for myself, I was at a lodge with my family until yesterday). They started going through emails. Someone emailed you to let you know that we would have the warranty department get back to you. At that point, the warranty representative decided this was well beyond her expertise so I was called in to a meeting about your issue and your issue only. I then started to study the pictures you sent (which were very helpful by the way) and then I got one of our Speeds on a lift and took a wheel off and started taking measurements. Now, most people on here will tell you that I will not talk about anything I don't have a complete understanding of. I do my research before I do anything else, there is demonstrable proof of that all over this forum. Once I had all the facts, we had another meeting with customer service, warranty and engineering. After that meeting is when I called you.

That being said, if this was a time critical issue, please call us. We get literally hundreds of emails, Facebook messages, contact us emails, etc. every single day. Coming back from a 3 day weekend is even more. At the end of the day, we are all humans just like you and have the same constraints and try to fit more in a day than is usually possible.

Cheers,
Joel

The only reason I didn't go in on CS was because of @rfinkle2; I thought he had a relationship with them.
Truth is every time I have to look at the damage to my car it pissed me off. Those were Robs lugnuts that I used.
Even if they were mine I could care less about a refund or another set that I Def will never use.
Easiest way for me is to never recommend any products to any of the guys that ask what they should buy.


The only reason I didn't go in on CS was because of @rfinkle2; I thought he had a relationship with them.
Truth is every time I have to look at the damage to my car it pissed me off. Those were Robs lugnuts that I used.
Even if they were mine I could care less about a refund or another set that I Def will never use.
Easiest way for me is to never recommend any products to any of the guys that ask what they should buy.

How much are these lugs anyways?

Cause I'm sitting on about 1500 in damage to my rocker panel, sideskirt, fender, and bumper.

If you're running the spacers I gave you, they are hub centric, at least to the MS3 hub diameter (I don't know if the hub bore is the same on the MS6). They are NOT wheel centric.

Lolololololol.

I saw the lurking and still no reply for me huh?

I think my toolbox and car needs a new sticker.

Subbed for later


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Some of you need to calm the hell down.

If Derrick went off guns blazing and answering questions without full knowledge, you would be pissed. If he researches and delays a response, you would be pissed.

They are responding timely and getting shit together and lets see what they have to say.

How calm would you be if you took a turn and your wheel fell off?
Or if a car falls into its sideskirt rotor bumper seconds after you removed your feet?


Run along dude.

Medicate and repeat.

Sent while driving fastest k04 pu

^^ lawsuit. At least for me.

All I have to say (again) is:

Aluminum Lug Nuts, FTL.

Damn and I was fixing to drop a couple grand to get me ready for stage 2 but think ill go another route..this isn't the first and sure wont be the last of cs product failures..think jbr and cobb will get my business.. Subbed for compensation or how they deal with this matter

Lol @ stage 2

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@ajberhorst;

SURE-ly this isn't going to happen to CorkSport

Hope this all gets figured out soon, I believe that CS is really in this for everyone's best interest, not just for a quick buck.

They'll come through.. hopefully

OP glad you're alright.. Way to come back at it the next day

Hey buddy dp and tmic.. I'm not a baller or a speed guru.. Want a reliable dd but everyone knows how that goes

Hum Maybe I should have got gorillas instead of mcgards with fancy keys

I have a relationship in the sense that I appreciate the vendors who support our platform and was asked to write for their blog once.

I appreciate the things they do in addition to making good parts, like sending all of us funny shit in the boxes, drawing goofy pictures etc. That kinda stuff is really cool of them to do, imo.

As for these lug failures, what bugs me most is that a few months ago, I was called and told that they would be sending me a revised set of lugs and to install them and take the 1st version off.

When Teddy asked if anyone had some open ended lugs, I thought to myself, "I have those lugs CS sent me (I have a few sets of lug nuts), and if they are a revised version, they gotta be decent enough to run down a 1/4 mile track".

A few weeks earlier, Rick tells me that his welds snap on his TP, that he contacted Derrick about it and because he was ordering a DP, never got a replacement TP!

These 2 things didn't sound like the Corksport I knew when I first started on this forum.

I hate holding people's feet to the fire, because I make mistakes daily.

I had a similar issue happen to me with these lugs, I put them on in the spring, torqued them to 80 ft/lbs, didn't touch them until fall when I went to swap them out and about a quarter of them came apart similar to the OP's when I went to loosen them. Had to take the broken ends off with needle nose.

http://i.imgur.com/TzQmFN5.jpg

Was going to raise a ruckus but decided to put it down to experience, out of the blue they sent me a replacement set saying they found issues with the run that I had bought. I'm scared to put them on a car though.