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![]() | | #121 | ![]() |
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__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]2012 Black Mica JBR WP intake// JBR RMM 80 duro// JBR Heavy knob// JBR Boost tubes + Recirc Hose// JBR Spacers// ETS Tmic// UR catless Dp// UR catless Tp// Custom 3in Catback// Go Fast Bits BOV 50/50// Autotechs// NGK one step colder// Megan Coilovers 324whp 368tq Vdyno CF 1.01 268whp 300tq AWD Mustang Dyno 3 GAL. E85 mix STRATIFIED 13.10 @ 108.1 (Nt05's) Auto Club Speedway |
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![]() | | #122 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't find any comedy in threads such as this. There has been expensive damage occurring due to the failures. I guarantee that no one here who is paying out of pocket to fix their vehicles think any of this is funny. This is the shit that can make or break a vendor. That'll be my last post on this. I apologize for adding to the bullshit, but seeing people make jokes during this time pisses me the fuck off.
__________________ Mods: stock Eventually I'll pay for how I am....but it won't be by the hand of any of you faggot fucks here. Last edited by faeker; 09-05-2013 at 09:51 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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![]() | | #123 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not picking one side over the other here. Op, im sorry to see your car like that, I know if it were mine it would kill me. Anyway. - OP used aluminum lugnuts with spacers and a slightly thicker wheel leaving threads under the recommended minimum specs. - Corksport apparently didnt plan on owners using aftermarket wheels and spacers and didnt provide a disclaimer until after the problem occured. Its a perfect storm, things were missed on both sides here and we can all learn from it. Mazda recommends 65-85 fl-lbs for the factory standard lugnuts. I guarantee the threads were already stretched bad due to so little of the stud threaded into the lug. Had you gone to 85 they definately would have stripped completely out. |
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On a part such as a wheel stud, the safety factor should be at minimum 2-3 times the required standard, especially in a performance application.
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed 3- AccessPORT V2, Autotech HPFP Internals, 3 Bar MAP Sensor, 3" Catless Downpipe, CPE Stage 2 RMM, CPE TMM, Custom Saikou Michi OCC, CXR FMIC, Devils Own DVC-30, Forge V2 BPV, 3.5" HTP Intake, JBR TIG's, MME Shifter Bushings, NGK LTR7IX-11's, PNP Intake, SPEEDPERF6MANC3 Valve Cover Breather 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #3142- Stock, but not for long. ![]() Equal rights for all, special privileges for none. ~ Thomas Jefferson | |
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![]() | | #125 | ![]() |
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__________________ True Red 2009 MS3 Damond Motorsports: RMM // Short Shift Plate Suspension: Koni Yellows // Swift Spec-r springs // Fatcat motorsports front bump stops // Rear Camber Arms Brakes: Hawk HPS pads // ATE Superblue fluid // Stainless Steel Brake Lines Other: CP-e Safe Seals // MattDamond shift plate // Masonvi shift knob // 3.5" WP w/recirc // RSB // IM + TB tigs // Synapse Engineering FMIC + BOV // Autotech internals Tune: hypnotic tuned Critical Stats: // 305whp/352tq // 13.34 @ 98 - Mason Dixon Dragway - 4/13/14 Titanium Gray 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Damond Motorsports: OCC // Short shift plate // Turbo oil feed restrictor bolt Other: Autotech internals // Ebay M2 DP // Masonvi shift knob // | |
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![]() | | #126 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think Haltech made a point that gets overlooked to much. Feedback from any community for any company is something that you should use to the fullest. Many of the best companies are the ones who have amazing customer service and deal with everything timely and in a professional manner. This thread has 3 different topics in it, the OP's case specifically, CS's faulty design and the topic of aluminum lugs. If you wanted responses form anyone at CS this wouldn't be the best platform to reach them on. If you want to get money out of them for faulty products, this once again isn't the platform to do that. I'm not sure if CS just recently updated their website stating the following but if it was there from the beginning then a lot of the failures posted here could be the users fault. "WARNING: DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN ON THESE LUGNUTS, DOING SO WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND COULD CAUSE FAILURE" "WARNING: DO NOT USE WHEEL SPACERS OR ANY WHEEL THAT ALLOWS FOR LESS THAN 11mm OF THREAD ENGAGEMENT, DOING SO WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND COULD CAUSE FAILURE" Just from this situation and everyone stating a bad experience from CS at this time, my business won't be going to them for the time being. This post may have no weight behind it because I have almost no posts, but that has no regard to anything in my opinion. |
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![]() | | #127 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I agree with you there (I go to 85 on mine.) but 65 with only 4-5 threads in aluminum is just asking to rip the threads out. Im not in the "Aluminum lugnuts are crap" camp but unless youre getting a good bit of the stud in there then this is what you can expect to happen. |
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![]() | | #128 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Agreed, corksport didnt plan for this and therefore was poor planning on their part. However, with the proper length stud with the required amount of thread present this probably wouldnt have been an issue because it would meet or exceed the standard. Looking at the pictures in the original post you can see the length of the stud left with the thicker wheels and spacers on. Its not a lot, and clearly not enough to keep the wheels on. |
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![]() | | #129 | ![]() |
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| Neutral : -1 score Just an FYI but if you read the entire thread you will see that the Warning was issued after they got off the phone with the person AND after CS testing it on a car in the shop. And I agree with CS doing this as it makes sense in the business sense. But I also feel for the OP and others that have had this happen to them.
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![]() | | #130 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The question is why these are breaking off. It looks like they are made of 3 distinct parts pressed together. 1. The acorn that makes contact with the wheel 2. The hex part that is used to install and remove the lug nuts 3. The threaded insert. This insert holds the two parts together Here the threaded insert simply shears off where the hex and acorn sections meet and you can see the insert is quite thin. When using a wrench you are twisting and stressing this point. In the case of the OP, he only engaged the threads into the section where the acorn is so he essentially stressed this junction since his actual stud did not thread into the second section (hex side) of the lug nut. So he simply popped off the heads of these at that same joint where the threaded insert is very thin. This design is used/advertised to protect the finish of the wheel if the acorn can independently spin (I don't see this advertised so it may not be the case), and to make lugs with different acorn angles, hex pieces with logos/finishes, and different threads in large quantities at a low cost. This is a similar design to these: Stay away from Kics Neo Chrome lug nuts they're crap!! If you are using these lugs, make sure you have enough stud length to engage both into the acorn and hex piece.
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. Last edited by Lex; 09-06-2013 at 02:57 AM. |
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__________________ Late 2013 Silver MS3 Mods: Cobb AP. Future mods: Autotech Internals, Corksport Stage 2 Intake and TIP, Gutted DP. |
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Not saying the spacers didn't exacerbate the failure, but I did have a chance to closely examine a failed lug that came off Teddy's car, and it appears to me that the design and material used is simply inferior. Glad you came away safe OP. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is exactly why I went with the h and r track + over just a set of spacers. Even 5mm made it dangerous with steel lugs let alone a 3 piece aluminum. Best of luck op, IMO, I think both parties are at fault....but that doesn't help the damage done to the vehicles involved. I guess I'll sit back and watch how this unfolds and hope they do the right thing, it'd be a shame if this turned into another failure like sure, because no company is perfect and it's all in how the response is handled.
__________________ COBB AP, CPE STAGE 2 RMM, CS SRI/TIP, AT HPFP INTERNALS, CNT CATTED DP, CP-E TRITON, JBR RSB, SWIFT SPRINGS, CS CAMBER ARMS |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think we should all look at it this way. He easily could have been taking a hard turn on a two lane public road canyon carving. It sucked that it happened, but at least it was on a closed course with no one else around and no one got hurt. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would like to start my post Defending corksport in 1 respect: Are the people who are sheering the nuts PROPERLY torquing the lugs down? Moving the torque wrench 1/4 of a turn and then ratcheting it back and moving another 1/4 turn is not the proper way to reach a torque load, it needs to be a clean sweeping arc (obviously the wheel is near the ground, so space permitting...). I will not take 100% of the blame off Corksport, as it does seem to be these are failing at a profound rate, however, thats like blaming Mazda that your fully bolted Ms3 blew up on the stock pump... Dont take care of a delicate part and it wont take care of you. Catch my drift? On to my complaints about corksport: I had a V1 can with a glued lid that broke, i was upset, but after a few swift emails a welded one was sent to me and all was dandy. However we have a very active Houston group and several of our members have also had problems with corksport parts. One of our members had a PMM sent to him with improper hardware which damaged his frame rail. After having to make some major modifications to allow his car to run again, he was able to get a stock mount back on and have his car safely running again. Corksport addressed this issue quickly and (i feel) more than took care of him to make things right. Fast forward to another member who received a part with missing hardware. These are issues we have seen time and time again from corksport recently however: Missing or improper hardware... i am willing to support one of the very few companies that actually support our platform, but Pro active or not Joel, your parts need to work. Things cannot be sent out with no hardware, wrong hardware, or without proper testing. I am not a manufacturer/engineer, nor do i claim to know anything about it, however, I do feel that lack of testing on Corksports part is what keeps leading to these issues: BPV's that cause compressor surge, lug nuts that are failing (be it user error or not), major components like brakes and mounts going out with the wrong hardware... Its getting really hard to want to support you guys because no matter how well you address failures, the point is they are still all too common... Maybe the Mazda community is just so close knit that everything gets honed in on with a microscope, but at the end of the day, you guys are the current ones in the hotseat with this multitude of failures we've seen over the past few months.
__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It makes sense to me to put longer studs on if you put spacers on. 1+1=2. Maybe CS should put a warning label on it. I have used CS lug nuts on my MZ6 and torqued them to spec and never had problem. I also didnt put spacers on. Not trying sound like a dick. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i can't even read this whole thread. plain and simple, these lugs will never work. the major diameter of the thread almost cuts right through. from the looks of it, i could take a brand new lug, put it in a vice and tap the conical piece with a mallet, and it would break off.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Inb4 85% silicone core. It's better than aluminum. What's you buddy's ex wife trap? I <3 SP63, but that port job though... "The coolant must be evaporating." Bye Felicia "Exclusivity" - CP-enis Demodded. The Seals |
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__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed 3- AccessPORT V2, Autotech HPFP Internals, 3 Bar MAP Sensor, 3" Catless Downpipe, CPE Stage 2 RMM, CPE TMM, Custom Saikou Michi OCC, CXR FMIC, Devils Own DVC-30, Forge V2 BPV, 3.5" HTP Intake, JBR TIG's, MME Shifter Bushings, NGK LTR7IX-11's, PNP Intake, SPEEDPERF6MANC3 Valve Cover Breather 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #3142- Stock, but not for long. ![]() Equal rights for all, special privileges for none. ~ Thomas Jefferson | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can't use a helicoil to join two pieces together. Ib4wedidntmakethese.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Inb4 85% silicone core. It's better than aluminum. What's you buddy's ex wife trap? I <3 SP63, but that port job though... "The coolant must be evaporating." Bye Felicia "Exclusivity" - CP-enis Demodded. The Seals |
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![]() Shut up faggot, you still owe me a dock session!
__________________ CP-e S2 RMM // TurbineTech FMM // Ghetto SRI // 3" ATP MAF housing // Ultimate Racing CBE // Ebay Downpipe // Cobb AP // Autotechs // PG TIP // HKS V4 BOV // NGK Iridiums // ACT Street Disc // JBR Trans Mount Rich Tuned 330WHP and 363TQ 10-19-13 Moore Automotive ![]() | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just... wow. That fucking sucks. As much as fingers could be pointed at CS OP... why run spacers if you're autocrossing? I came from the Nissan scene before I bought my Mazda and it was common knowledge to not run spacers if the car was going to see any kind of significant side load. Period. If you wanted flush wheels, you bought wheels with a lower offset, but never used spacers. Also... Why did you even buy them? Light weight lugs? Why? How much weight are you actually saving? I just don't see the benefit... at lest not a justifiable benefit...
__________________ ![]() cobb ap v3 // RICHTUNE // autotech fpi // sp63 afc // cp-e nano // htp tip // nator dc fmic // nator dc PnP intake mani // hks ssqv *vta* // cs dp // su tp jbr rmm(88duro) // jbr pmm(80duro) // cpe tm(75duro) // act 6-puck // act streetlite fw // jbr egr delete // md occ // sure ssb // nator dc sts // jbr hw shift knob ebc red // rx-8s wrapped in conti dws 235/40s (winter) evo Xs wrapped in conti dw 235/40s (summer) www.sonictuning.com 311 whp - 345 lb/ft : Dynojet @ Moore Automotive *93 pump [4/13/13 MNM] 12.94 @ 109.00 @ Capitol Raceway *18' ASL [11/07/14] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've run at least 5 autocross events with JBR 5mm spacers, stock rims mounted with Yokohama A005 slicks (spacers keep them from rubbing the inside of the fender well), stock lug nuts with no issues. I religiously recheck the torque after each run, but have never noticed a significant problem.
__________________ 2008 MGM MS3 GT -- Prone to acts of jackassery Last edited by Chief_Wiggum; 09-06-2013 at 06:23 AM. Reason: addl info |
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If you're going to go that far. Why did CorkSport "produce" and sell said lug nuts? Not trying to bash them with that remark, trying to get you to look at it another way. Also... wtf is up with our new "smilies"?
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed 3- AccessPORT V2, Autotech HPFP Internals, 3 Bar MAP Sensor, 3" Catless Downpipe, CPE Stage 2 RMM, CPE TMM, Custom Saikou Michi OCC, CXR FMIC, Devils Own DVC-30, Forge V2 BPV, 3.5" HTP Intake, JBR TIG's, MME Shifter Bushings, NGK LTR7IX-11's, PNP Intake, SPEEDPERF6MANC3 Valve Cover Breather 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #3142- Stock, but not for long. ![]() Equal rights for all, special privileges for none. ~ Thomas Jefferson | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Balding Won Kenobi is an emoticon now? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The lugs on your car were used 2x's, both on your car @ the track on back to back weeks in the summer. No water, salt or environmental conditions apply to your specific case. I think it was Johanna who had an excellent point a few pages back... Mazdaspeed owners trust the engineers to know what material should be used in certain applications. I'm not going to learn open heart surgery so I can be sure my doctor is giving me a bypass correctly, and I suspect most people aren't going to get an engineering degree to be sure the parts their installing won't destroy their car when modding. These are lug nuts, not head studs, not cam washers, my point being ... potential customers are the average Joe looking to bolt some wheels to his / her car. To suggest anything but common sense and a general idea of how to install a wheel is needed is only going to discourage people from buying parts. If there is a part for sale on a Mazdaspeed vendor's site, every potential buyer but a few of the gearheads who know about tensile strength and metals' properties assumes that the part is safe to use. I hope Corksport comes up strong in the end and all of this becomes a distant memory, because we need good vendors and good people to continue to advance the platform. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score One of the issues I see here are that wheel spacers on a racecar is an awful idea. Wheel spacers are for cheap fuckers trying to rig up some ill fitting shit. Second issue is that who thought a 3 piece aluminum lug nut was a good idea? Aluminum is crazy soft, just seems like a bad concept to me. It might have held up with longer studs but keeping the wheels attached to the car is a pretty important task and I wouldn't trust these to be up to it. Corksport seems to be trying to innovate which can be good but you gotta be super smart and excellent at what you do to pull off any meaningful innovation.
__________________ 2008 CBM MS3 CP-E RMM | JBR 3.5" WP | GTX3071R | JBR OCC + IM TIG | SU TMIC | Turbosmart Compact BPV | Autotech Internals | Cobb AP + TBE + EBCS | NGK 1 Step Colder | TWM Shifter | Hotchkis Sways | Bilstein Sports | Swift SPEC-Rs | SPC Camber Arms | Freektune |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @El_Diablo; I know why CS made them... to turn a profit. There would be someone somewhere that would but them. That's what businesses do. But it's up you the consumer to justify the purchase. In this case, outside of aesthetics, as a consumer I can't justify the purchase... but that's me... and I'm black... therefore cheap
__________________ ![]() cobb ap v3 // RICHTUNE // autotech fpi // sp63 afc // cp-e nano // htp tip // nator dc fmic // nator dc PnP intake mani // hks ssqv *vta* // cs dp // su tp jbr rmm(88duro) // jbr pmm(80duro) // cpe tm(75duro) // act 6-puck // act streetlite fw // jbr egr delete // md occ // sure ssb // nator dc sts // jbr hw shift knob ebc red // rx-8s wrapped in conti dws 235/40s (winter) evo Xs wrapped in conti dw 235/40s (summer) www.sonictuning.com 311 whp - 345 lb/ft : Dynojet @ Moore Automotive *93 pump [4/13/13 MNM] 12.94 @ 109.00 @ Capitol Raceway *18' ASL [11/07/14] |
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"Made from 7075T6 aluminum: Aerospace quality alloy that boasts an impressive ultimate tensile strength of 74,000 – 78,000 psi and minimum yield strength of 63,000 – 69,000 psi for long lasting finish and durability" If it's good enough for a fighter jet, surmises joe blow tuner, how could they possibly fail on just a car? I think it's been covered pretty well, but the 3 piece design is probably more the culprit than the material. I'm not disagreeing though, I'll never put aluminum lugs on my vehicle, one piece or not. I don't care if every German auto manufacturer uses them or the Pope has blessed them with holy gestures, they just do not inspire confidence.
__________________ Manley forged long block, secret snail, manifolds, and 2gal E85 tune running like a champ - about to dial in a lot of meth and see what we've got. 13.10@117.1 full weight DD no prep 1/4 (BNR S3 / E85) | |
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__________________ Pd tuned. 09' true red GT | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When installing anything on your car, it is very important to ask the question: If this fails, what are the immediate and long term consequences? If the answer puts you or others in danger that is difficult to recover from, think twice about the part(s) being installed, do some research, look into their background and think very long and hard before moving away from OEM parts. The reason for this is simple: The OEMs have to satisfy stringent standards to sell a car. The aftermarket do not. This opens the door for anyone to market anything to the general public. It's one thing to have a poorly designed intake, leaking exhaust, even blow a motor and another to lose a wheel, lose braking suddenly, have a suspension collapse etc. Companies should pay the utmost care when designing parts that experience great forces and that have immediate impacts on safety. However the aftermarket, for the most part, is UNREGULATED. That means no one is going to stop a company from selling and you from installing part X on your car. So tread very carefully with these sort of parts no matter who they are from. When in doubt either don't install the part or look for a company that has a reputation in delivering quality and DEMONSTRATES results, and sound engineering practices. Most of the time (and especially for complex parts), it is best to look at a company that specializes in those parts alone rather than someone that makes/sells a little bit of everything. This is simply because the resources required to design, test, and manufacture a good suspension/brakes/wheels/etc. alone - in house - are great and that puts that good design and products outside of the reach of most companies. This is economics but these tips help the consumer make a better decision. There's a reason Mazda themselves contracted KW for their own coilovers and H&R buys Bilstein dampeners.
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. Last edited by Lex; 09-06-2013 at 09:49 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score something like lugnuts should be beyond impeccable... I don't want them being just safe at normal driving or within .8mm of thread depth. I want them being safe at twice the "recommended" load. I don't want them failing unless someone was being so stupid as to hammer them onto the studs... No way that they should disintegrate at even 5mm spacers, not to mention just taking them off after hard driving. Since when do you have to baby the lugnuts?!!! They're supposed to be some of the sturdiest things on the car! You should be able to drop them on the ground without them snapping in half. Torque them properly and check them after you do a tire rotation since they settle.. But having to worry if something that simple will come off in one piece is ridiculous!
__________________ 2009 Nissan 370Z. Turbo and BOV sounds made by the driver via mouth. SOLD: 2011 Speed3. Black mica w/tech package Cobb SRI, COBB AP, AT internals, OBX racepipe, Corksport RMM, LOUDASS STRAIGHTPIPE CPE TIP |
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If they continually fuck up with multiple product fails and blame installer error, I'll pay the postage on the bag of dicks we'll be sending to the them. In the mean time, maybe you should go back to just reading and not posting.
__________________ Manley forged long block, secret snail, manifolds, and 2gal E85 tune running like a champ - about to dial in a lot of meth and see what we've got. 13.10@117.1 full weight DD no prep 1/4 (BNR S3 / E85) | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Its so easy to point the finger at someone elses mistake. It's thier fault because. Im a dumbass for putting spacers on with out putting a longer stud on. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4
__________________ 2007 Mazda CX-7: Custom FMIC, Forge V1 BPV, Grimmspeed 3 port EBC, BNR S3 turbo, 3 inch Catless DP, Muffler Delete, JBR 3.5 intake, Autotech HPFP Internals, JBR OCC, Vogland Springs. Stereo: Two Memphis 10" Subs, 2 Memphis 1.500 Amps. Memphis 4.50 Amp, Image Dynamics Components and Coaxials. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you shouldnt be using dissimilar metal studs and lugs in the first place dont use aluminum anything unless mated to other aluminum, stainless steel, or the aluminum has steel thread inserts |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score While that is best, it is rarely practiced in the auto industry. Just take a look at simple things like your intake manifold, exhaust manifold, BPV, the stock intercooler neck ect...
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed 3- AccessPORT V2, Autotech HPFP Internals, 3 Bar MAP Sensor, 3" Catless Downpipe, CPE Stage 2 RMM, CPE TMM, Custom Saikou Michi OCC, CXR FMIC, Devils Own DVC-30, Forge V2 BPV, 3.5" HTP Intake, JBR TIG's, MME Shifter Bushings, NGK LTR7IX-11's, PNP Intake, SPEEDPERF6MANC3 Valve Cover Breather 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata #3142- Stock, but not for long. ![]() Equal rights for all, special privileges for none. ~ Thomas Jefferson |
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LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f544/corksport-lightweight-lug-nut-failure-154473/ | ||||
| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Bullsh*t thread - Page 1016 - 2004 to 2014 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums | This thread | Refback | 05-27-2015 10:42 AM | |
| Offical latest automotive purchase thread | This thread | Refback | 01-03-2014 10:51 PM | |
| CORKSPORT LUGNUTS (FAIL) - 2004 to 2014 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums | This thread | Refback | 10-31-2013 05:43 AM | |
| CORKSPORT LUGNUTS (FAIL) - 2010-13 Mazda 3/Mazdaspeed 3 Forums | This thread | Pingback | 09-06-2013 11:34 AM | |
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